Blown Sub

[Marcus]

Hi.

I recently added two Pioneer 10" subs to my car. They are 350 RMS,
700 peak and are running off a Kenwood 1000W amp.

Yesterday I realized the left sub is blown and I don't remember doing
anything that should have blown it. My questions are these: at that
wattge, shouldn't I really have to get on the subs for an extended
amount of time to blow one of them? Is there something that I'm
completly ignoring, such as an amp ajustment or something of that
nature that cause the sub to go? Is this possibly a model issue (in
which case I would rather not get another sub of the same model to
replace this one) or did I just end up with one "bad apple" of a sub?

THANKS a lot of input, I have to figure out what I'm going to do from
here. I have a manufacturer's warranty so I think I can get the sub
replaced but before I replace it I would like to make sure I'm not the
cause of this.

[Peter Klein]

Who told you that you would need 1000 watts to drive two 10" subs? You don't
mention the impedance. What impedance were the subs configured for and what
is the comfortable output impedance of the amp? You also don't mention which
type of enclosure you are using. Going to pioneer's website can provide very
useful knowledge about creating a subwoofer system as well as any other
brand' website. The box matters! P.


"Marcus" > wrote in message
om...
> Hi.
>
> I recently added two Pioneer 10" subs to my car. They are 350 RMS,
> 700 peak and are running off a Kenwood 1000W amp.
>
> Yesterday I realized the left sub is blown and I don't remember doing
> anything that should have blown it. My questions are these: at that
> wattge, shouldn't I really have to get on the subs for an extended
> amount of time to blow one of them? Is there something that I'm
> completly ignoring, such as an amp ajustment or something of that
> nature that cause the sub to go? Is this possibly a model issue (in
> which case I would rather not get another sub of the same model to
> replace this one) or did I just end up with one "bad apple" of a sub?
>
> THANKS a lot of input, I have to figure out what I'm going to do from
> here. I have a manufacturer's warranty so I think I can get the sub
> replaced but before I replace it I would like to make sure I'm not the
> cause of this.

[Marcus]

"Peter Klein" > wrote in message news:<vAgGc.12554$JR4.5308@attbi_s54>...
> Who told you that you would need 1000 watts to drive two 10" subs? You don't
> mention the impedance. What impedance were the subs configured for and what
> is the comfortable output impedance of the amp? You also don't mention which
> type of enclosure you are using. Going to pioneer's website can provide very
> useful knowledge about creating a subwoofer system as well as any other
> brand' website. The box matters! P.
>



Hey, Thanks for posting...

I checked the amp and the owners manuals of the subs and the amp.
Here are some details:

The subs are Pioneer TS-W255C's, they are 4 Ohm subs that run at 350w
nominal and peak at 700w. They are inclosed in a sealed, dual
hatchback box with terminal cups for each chamber.

The wire from the bridged amp enters the right terminal and then a
second piece of wire is connected at that terminal and runs into the
second terminal (where the blown sub connects).

The amp is a Kenwood KAC-929, and it's stable to two ohms. What I
don't really understand is all the ohm stuff and if the way I wired it
may have changed the impedance. Here are some numbers on the amp...

Max Power (4Ohm)
Normal..................300x2
Bridge..................1000x1

Rated Power Output (4ohm)
Normal..................150x2
Bridge..................460x1

Rated Power Output (2Ohm)
Normal.................230x2

Thanks for the help, I can give you more info from the manuals if you
need it.



> "Marcus" > wrote in message
> om...
> > Hi.
> >
> > I recently added two Pioneer 10" subs to my car. They are 350 RMS,
> > 700 peak and are running off a Kenwood 1000W amp.
> >
> > Yesterday I realized the left sub is blown and I don't remember doing
> > anything that should have blown it. My questions are these: at that
> > wattge, shouldn't I really have to get on the subs for an extended
> > amount of time to blow one of them? Is there something that I'm
> > completly ignoring, such as an amp ajustment or something of that
> > nature that cause the sub to go? Is this possibly a model issue (in
> > which case I would rather not get another sub of the same model to
> > replace this one) or did I just end up with one "bad apple" of a sub?
> >
> > THANKS a lot of input, I have to figure out what I'm going to do from
> > here. I have a manufacturer's warranty so I think I can get the sub
> > replaced but before I replace it I would like to make sure I'm not the
> > cause of this.

[Marcus]

Anyone else want to take a crack at this?




(Marcus) wrote in message >...
> "Peter Klein" > wrote in message news:<vAgGc.12554$JR4.5308@attbi_s54>...
> > Who told you that you would need 1000 watts to drive two 10" subs? You don't
> > mention the impedance. What impedance were the subs configured for and what
> > is the comfortable output impedance of the amp? You also don't mention which
> > type of enclosure you are using. Going to pioneer's website can provide very
> > useful knowledge about creating a subwoofer system as well as any other
> > brand' website. The box matters! P.
> >
>
>
>
> Hey, Thanks for posting...
>
> I checked the amp and the owners manuals of the subs and the amp.
> Here are some details:
>
> The subs are Pioneer TS-W255C's, they are 4 Ohm subs that run at 350w
> nominal and peak at 700w. They are inclosed in a sealed, dual
> hatchback box with terminal cups for each chamber.
>
> The wire from the bridged amp enters the right terminal and then a
> second piece of wire is connected at that terminal and runs into the
> second terminal (where the blown sub connects).
>
> The amp is a Kenwood KAC-929, and it's stable to two ohms. What I
> don't really understand is all the ohm stuff and if the way I wired it
> may have changed the impedance. Here are some numbers on the amp...
>
> Max Power (4Ohm)
> Normal..................300x2
> Bridge..................1000x1
>
> Rated Power Output (4ohm)
> Normal..................150x2
> Bridge..................460x1
>
> Rated Power Output (2Ohm)
> Normal.................230x2
>
> Thanks for the help, I can give you more info from the manuals if you
> need it.
>
>
>
> > "Marcus" > wrote in message
> > om...
> > > Hi.
> > >
> > > I recently added two Pioneer 10" subs to my car. They are 350 RMS,
> > > 700 peak and are running off a Kenwood 1000W amp.
> > >
> > > Yesterday I realized the left sub is blown and I don't remember doing
> > > anything that should have blown it. My questions are these: at that
> > > wattge, shouldn't I really have to get on the subs for an extended
> > > amount of time to blow one of them? Is there something that I'm
> > > completly ignoring, such as an amp ajustment or something of that
> > > nature that cause the sub to go? Is this possibly a model issue (in
> > > which case I would rather not get another sub of the same model to
> > > replace this one) or did I just end up with one "bad apple" of a sub?
> > >
> > > THANKS a lot of input, I have to figure out what I'm going to do from
> > > here. I have a manufacturer's warranty so I think I can get the sub
> > > replaced but before I replace it I would like to make sure I'm not the
> > > cause of this.

[FasDeth]

>
> > I checked the amp and the owners manuals of the subs and the amp.
> > Here are some details:
> >
> > The subs are Pioneer TS-W255C's, they are 4 Ohm subs that run at 350w
> > nominal and peak at 700w. They are inclosed in a sealed, dual
> > hatchback box with terminal cups for each chamber.
> >
> > The wire from the bridged amp enters the right terminal and then a
> > second piece of wire is connected at that terminal and runs into the
> > second terminal (where the blown sub connects).
> >
> > The amp is a Kenwood KAC-929, and it's stable to two ohms. What I
> > don't really understand is all the ohm stuff and if the way I wired it
> > may have changed the impedance. Here are some numbers on the amp...
> >
> > Max Power (4Ohm)
> > Normal..................300x2
> > Bridge..................1000x1
> >
> > Rated Power Output (4ohm)
> > Normal..................150x2
> > Bridge..................460x1
> >
> > Rated Power Output (2Ohm)
> > Normal.................230x2
> >
> > Thanks for the help, I can give you more info from the manuals if you
> > need it.

Your trying to put a2OHm load on a bridged amp..
Run one to L + ,- and one R +,-.
I think you have it wired wrong.
> The wire from the bridged amp enters the right terminal and then a
> second piece of wire is connected at that terminal and runs into the
> second terminal (where the blown sub connects).



FasDeth

[Marcus]

"FasDeth" <FasDeth.removeme@coxdotnet> wrote in message news:<%1kHc.1220$ri.136@lakeread04>...
> >
> > > I checked the amp and the owners manuals of the subs and the amp.
> > > Here are some details:
> > >
> > > The subs are Pioneer TS-W255C's, they are 4 Ohm subs that run at 350w
> > > nominal and peak at 700w. They are inclosed in a sealed, dual
> > > hatchback box with terminal cups for each chamber.
> > >
> > > The wire from the bridged amp enters the right terminal and then a
> > > second piece of wire is connected at that terminal and runs into the
> > > second terminal (where the blown sub connects).
> > >
> > > The amp is a Kenwood KAC-929, and it's stable to two ohms. What I
> > > don't really understand is all the ohm stuff and if the way I wired it
> > > may have changed the impedance. Here are some numbers on the amp...
> > >
> > > Max Power (4Ohm)
> > > Normal..................300x2
> > > Bridge..................1000x1
> > >
> > > Rated Power Output (4ohm)
> > > Normal..................150x2
> > > Bridge..................460x1
> > >
> > > Rated Power Output (2Ohm)
> > > Normal.................230x2
> > >
> > > Thanks for the help, I can give you more info from the manuals if you
> > > need it.
>
> Your trying to put a2OHm load on a bridged amp..
> Run one to L + ,- and one R +,-.
> I think you have it wired wrong.
> > The wire from the bridged amp enters the right terminal and then a
> > second piece of wire is connected at that terminal and runs into the
> > second terminal (where the blown sub connects).


In other words, run one channel to the right sub and one channel to the left sub?

[Marcus]

I know there is someone here who can help me...Is there a reason why
no one is responding?

[FasDeth]

"Marcus" > wrote in message
> In other words, run one channel to the right sub and one channel to the
left sub?

Exactly..

[Les]

"Marcus" > wrote in message
m...
> I know there is someone here who can help me...Is there a reason why
> no one is responding?

There are any number of reasons that your sub could have blown, cannot
really tell you why without knowing the variables.

As far as connection to the amp, you will want to run one sub off of each
channel. Your amp may function at 2ohm bridged for a while but it is likely
not very happy.

If you were happy with the bass I would just get another replacement.
Pioneer are typically good speakers.

Les

[Marcus]

"FasDeth" <FasDeth.removeme@coxdotnet> wrote in message news:<rzfIc.19045$ri.4122@lakeread04>...
> "Marcus" > wrote in message
> > In other words, run one channel to the right sub and one channel to the
> left sub?
>
> Exactly..

Alright, thank you to everyone for the input...

[Marcus]

(Marcus) wrote in message >...
> "FasDeth" <FasDeth.removeme@coxdotnet> wrote in message news:<rzfIc.19045$ri.4122@lakeread04>...
> > "Marcus" > wrote in message
> > > In other words, run one channel to the right sub and one channel to the
> > left sub?
> >
> > Exactly..
>
> Alright, thank you to everyone for the input...

So hold on...Is there a reason why only one of the subs blew?

[Les]

"Marcus" > wrote in message
om...
> (Marcus) wrote in message
>...
> > "FasDeth" <FasDeth.removeme@coxdotnet> wrote in message
news:<rzfIc.19045$ri.4122@lakeread04>...
> > > "Marcus" > wrote in message
> > > > In other words, run one channel to the right sub and one channel to
the
> > > left sub?
> > >
> > > Exactly..
> >
> > Alright, thank you to everyone for the input...
>
> So hold on...Is there a reason why only one of the subs blew?

Almost impossible to say with the information known. Could be as simple as a
faulty driver. They could have been different impedences, I have seen this
happen before. I wouldn't worry about it, run each sub off of one channel
and just enjoy.

Les

[Marcus]

"Les" > wrote in message >...
> "Marcus" > wrote in message
> om...
> > (Marcus) wrote in message
> >...
> > > "FasDeth" <FasDeth.removeme@coxdotnet> wrote in message
> news:<rzfIc.19045$ri.4122@lakeread04>...
> > > > "Marcus" > wrote in message
> > > > > In other words, run one channel to the right sub and one channel to
> the
> > > > left sub?
> > > >
> > > > Exactly..
> > >
> > > Alright, thank you to everyone for the input...
> >
> > So hold on...Is there a reason why only one of the subs blew?
>
> Almost impossible to say with the information known. Could be as simple as a
> faulty driver. They could have been different impedences, I have seen this
> happen before. I wouldn't worry about it, run each sub off of one channel
> and just enjoy.
>
> Les

Sounds good. Pioneer is going to have a local authorized dealer
determine if the sub blowing was my fault or Pioneer's. Hopefully
they blame Pioneer so I get my sub replaced:)

Thanks for the help...

[Brandon Buckner]

Thats why you make friends with the dealers... of COURSE it was a bad
sub.... :)

Brandonb


Marcus wrote:
>
> Sounds good. Pioneer is going to have a local authorized dealer
> determine if the sub blowing was my fault or Pioneer's. Hopefully
> they blame Pioneer so I get my sub replaced:)
>
> Thanks for the help...