ROOM SIZE vs RMS

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Can any one tell me about any recomendation for choosing a particular
RMS for a home theatre. one room is 10*15 the other is 24*15 another
one is 20*40 and anoher one a big hall. is there a table or forms that
specifies that a room with a specific size should have a home theater
with a minimum RMS to give a true home theater effect. if any one knows
he answer please let me know.

[Trevor Wilson]

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> Can any one tell me about any recomendation for choosing a particular
> RMS for a home theatre. one room is 10*15 the other is 24*15 another
> one is 20*40 and anoher one a big hall. is there a table or forms that
> specifies that a room with a specific size should have a home theater
> with a minimum RMS to give a true home theater effect. if any one knows
> he answer please let me know.

**There is no one solid answer. There are a raft of questions, however:

* How 'live' is the room?
* What sort of furnishings?
* How many people?
* What is the efficiency of the speakers?
* Windows? Size?
* Curtains? Material and thickness?
* Et al.

BTW: When submitting measurements, you should ALWAYS do so in Metres. A
paltry 5% of the planet's population still deals in Imperial measurements
and may therefore be ignored. You should NEVER leave out measurement units.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

[Mike McKelvy]

Mar 15, 8:37 am show options

Newsgroups: rec.audio.opinion
From: - Find messages by this author
Date: 15 Mar 2005 08:37:05 -0800
Local: Tues, Mar 15 2005 8:37 am
Subject: ROOM Size

>Can any one tell me about any recomendation for choosing a particular
>RMS for a home theatre. one room is 10*15 the other is 24*15 another
>one is 20*40 and anoher one a big hall. is there a table or forms that

>specifies that a room with a specific size should have a home theater
>with a minimum RMS to give a true home theater effect. if any one
knows
>he answer please let me know.

A good general rule is get as much power as you can afford. It's very
unlikely that it will ever be too much. Of course you can blow
speakers by pumping more power than are rated for, but you would
probably not run that risk if you have any sense, since it would most
likely be far louder than you would be comfortable with.

There are many recievers, (assuming that is the route you are taking)
that will put out over 100 wpc that don't cost a lot. If you are
including a subwoofer, that will likely be powered so the same rule
applies, get as much as you can afford.

If you go with separates and are willing to spend more money, you can
go for a lot more power but it comes with a price tag.

If you could give some detail about what you prefer in terms of
components and your budget, your answers will be better.

I wouldn't want less than 100wpc myself.

[dave weil]

On 15 Mar 2005 16:27:28 -0800, "Mike McKelvy" >
wrote:

>Of course you can blow
>speakers by pumping more power than are rated for, but you would
>probably not run that risk if you have any sense, since it would most
>likely be far louder than you would be comfortable with.

And, of course, it's even easier to blow speakers with too LITTLE
power.

[Mike McKelvy]

On 15 Mar 2005 16:27:28 -0800, "Mike McKelvy" >
wrote:


dave weil Mar 15, 5:39 pm


>Of course you can blow
>speakers by pumping more power than are rated for, but you would
>probably not run that risk if you have any sense, since it would most
>likely be far louder than you would be comfortable with.


>And, of course, it's even easier to blow speakers with too LITTLE
>power.


Which is why I don't want less than 100wpc. You can blow speakers with
any amp driven to clipping. You are less ikely to blow speakers with
an amp that has more power than speakers are rated for, simply because
the sound will be more than sane people can stand.

[Arny Krueger]

> wrote in message
oups.com
> Can any one tell me about any recomendation for choosing a particular
> RMS for a home theatre.

Not with the information you've given.

>one room is 10*15 the other is 24*15 another
> one is 20*40 and anoher one a big hall. is there a table or forms that
> specifies that a room with a specific size should have a home theater
> with a minimum RMS to give a true home theater effect. if any one
> knows he answer please let me know.

Other parameters matter, such as loudspeaker efficiency.

Speakers used for HT range in efficiency from about 86 dB/watt to 98
dB/watt. The difference is 12 dB, which is the same as the difference
between 100 watts and 1600 watts.

Another parameter relates to your goals for maximum loudness. A decent HT
effect can involve peak levels ranging between 100 and 115 dB. The
difference is 15 dB, or the difference between 100 watts and 3200 watts.

Then there is the sonic absorbtion of the room. This can vary over a range
of maybe 4:1.

[dave weil]

On 16 Mar 2005 00:11:20 -0800, "Mike McKelvy" >
wrote:

>On 15 Mar 2005 16:27:28 -0800, "Mike McKelvy" >
>wrote:
>
>
>dave weil Mar 15, 5:39 pm
>
>
>>Of course you can blow
>>speakers by pumping more power than are rated for, but you would
>>probably not run that risk if you have any sense, since it would most
>>likely be far louder than you would be comfortable with.
>
>
>>And, of course, it's even easier to blow speakers with too LITTLE
>>power.
>
>
>Which is why I don't want less than 100wpc. You can blow speakers with
>any amp driven to clipping. You are less ikely to blow speakers with
>an amp that has more power than speakers are rated for, simply because
>the sound will be more than sane people can stand.

Yeah, I just wanted to point that out explicitly.

I'll say though that my Denon 90wpc surround sound receiver is plenty
for my space, when it's working. Yes, it goes through stages where one
of the solenoids hangs up, and has done it almost since day one.

I really hate the fact that most of the switching is done
electronically these days. Makes it really easy for something to go
wrong, and, since it's intermittent, it's really hard to get it
repaired.