Can dimming lights blow head lights?

[Computer Prog]

I have a three amp system with a total fuse rating of 200A. I run zero
gauge back to a distribution block for power. I have a second zero
gauge distribution block for grounds. 4 gauge runs from the blocks to
the amps.

I have a 90A alt and I did a full big three upgrade. I get pretty bad
dimming when I crank the system. I can see my voltmeter dancing back &
forth with the bass. My voltage can drop into the 11s when I really
crank it.

The passenger side headlight is right next to my battery and this bulb
has blown 3 times in 6 months. I just replaced it two weeks ago and I
noticed tonight that it is out again. Could my dimming be blowing the
bulb?

[cyrus]

In article >,
(Computer Prog) wrote:

> I have a three amp system with a total fuse rating of 200A. I run zero
> gauge back to a distribution block for power. I have a second zero
> gauge distribution block for grounds. 4 gauge runs from the blocks to
> the amps.
>
> I have a 90A alt and I did a full big three upgrade. I get pretty bad
> dimming when I crank the system. I can see my voltmeter dancing back &
> forth with the bass. My voltage can drop into the 11s when I really
> crank it.
>
> The passenger side headlight is right next to my battery and this bulb
> has blown 3 times in 6 months. I just replaced it two weeks ago and I
> noticed tonight that it is out again. Could my dimming be blowing the
> bulb?

A car system's voltage isn't usually fluctuating in time to a 120bpm
song (or at 92bpm or at 145bpm depending on your flavor.. ok back on
topic), so electrically it might be bad for alot of other things aside
from your headlights. Others more in the know will give specifics.

How 'bout a high output alternator?

--
cyrus

*coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough*

[Kevin McMurtrie]

In article >,
(Computer Prog) wrote:

> I have a three amp system with a total fuse rating of 200A. I run zero
> gauge back to a distribution block for power. I have a second zero
> gauge distribution block for grounds. 4 gauge runs from the blocks to
> the amps.
>
> I have a 90A alt and I did a full big three upgrade. I get pretty bad
> dimming when I crank the system. I can see my voltmeter dancing back &
> forth with the bass. My voltage can drop into the 11s when I really
> crank it.
>
> The passenger side headlight is right next to my battery and this bulb
> has blown 3 times in 6 months. I just replaced it two weeks ago and I
> noticed tonight that it is out again. Could my dimming be blowing the
> bulb?

More likely is the vibration. Frequent partial dimming doesn't bother
light bulbs at all.

[SHRED©]

Computer Prog wrote:
> I have a three amp system with a total fuse rating of 200A. I run zero
> gauge back to a distribution block for power. I have a second zero
> gauge distribution block for grounds. 4 gauge runs from the blocks to
> the amps.
>
> I have a 90A alt and I did a full big three upgrade. I get pretty bad
> dimming when I crank the system. I can see my voltmeter dancing back &
> forth with the bass. My voltage can drop into the 11s when I really
> crank it.
>
> The passenger side headlight is right next to my battery and this bulb
> has blown 3 times in 6 months. I just replaced it two weeks ago and I
> noticed tonight that it is out again. Could my dimming be blowing the
> bulb?

Sounds like a blown regulator to me. I had a battery that was shorting out
and killing regulators. Very hard to diagnose because it was vibration
related.
Get a high quality battery.

BTW:
I have a HO alternator from Alterstart (150a) I never installed For sale.
It is for a 1991 Integra.

[MZ]

No, dimming can't blow the head lights. But too high of a voltage can.
What does the electrical system max out at (ie. when the radio is not
playing)?

--
Mark
remove "remove" and "spam" to reply

"Computer Prog" > wrote in message
om...
> I have a three amp system with a total fuse rating of 200A. I run zero
> gauge back to a distribution block for power. I have a second zero
> gauge distribution block for grounds. 4 gauge runs from the blocks to
> the amps.
>
> I have a 90A alt and I did a full big three upgrade. I get pretty bad
> dimming when I crank the system. I can see my voltmeter dancing back &
> forth with the bass. My voltage can drop into the 11s when I really
> crank it.
>
> The passenger side headlight is right next to my battery and this bulb
> has blown 3 times in 6 months. I just replaced it two weeks ago and I
> noticed tonight that it is out again. Could my dimming be blowing the
> bulb?

[Computer Prog]

Could there be a voltage spike when the voltage swings back up?

>Kevin McMurtrie > wrote in message news:<mcmurtri-> >More likely is the vibration. Frequent partial dimming
>doesn't bother light bulbs at all.

[Computer Prog]

"MZ" > wrote in message >...
> No, dimming can't blow the head lights. But too high of a voltage can.
> What does the electrical system max out at (ie. when the radio is not
> playing)?

The max I've seen when first starting the car on a freezing 20 degree
F day is 14.6V. On a typical 60 degree F day I'll see 13.8V at about
2000 RPM. Voltage regulation looks normal when I am not pushing my
system. The driver side headlight is the original OEM unit and it is
10 yrs old. I've gone through about 5 bulbs on the passenger side, 2
in the past 2 weeks. I've been using Sylvania replacement bulbs from
PepBoys. Maybe I should try an OEM bulb on the passenger side this
time.

[MZ]

All on the same side? Are you sure the mounts are intact and that it's not
vibrating over bumps? My initial inclination is to say that it's a
mechanical problem and not an electrical one.

--
Mark
remove "remove" and "spam" to reply

"Computer Prog" > wrote in message
m...
> "MZ" > wrote in message
>...
> > No, dimming can't blow the head lights. But too high of a voltage can.
> > What does the electrical system max out at (ie. when the radio is not
> > playing)?
>
> The max I've seen when first starting the car on a freezing 20 degree
> F day is 14.6V. On a typical 60 degree F day I'll see 13.8V at about
> 2000 RPM. Voltage regulation looks normal when I am not pushing my
> system. The driver side headlight is the original OEM unit and it is
> 10 yrs old. I've gone through about 5 bulbs on the passenger side, 2
> in the past 2 weeks. I've been using Sylvania replacement bulbs from
> PepBoys. Maybe I should try an OEM bulb on the passenger side this
> time.

[Scott Johnson]

you didn't touch the glass of the bulb with your bare hand did you? halogen
bulbs blow quick if you get skin oil on them.



"Computer Prog" > wrote in message
m...
> "MZ" > wrote in message
>...
> > No, dimming can't blow the head lights. But too high of a voltage can.
> > What does the electrical system max out at (ie. when the radio is not
> > playing)?
>
> The max I've seen when first starting the car on a freezing 20 degree
> F day is 14.6V. On a typical 60 degree F day I'll see 13.8V at about
> 2000 RPM. Voltage regulation looks normal when I am not pushing my
> system. The driver side headlight is the original OEM unit and it is
> 10 yrs old. I've gone through about 5 bulbs on the passenger side, 2
> in the past 2 weeks. I've been using Sylvania replacement bulbs from
> PepBoys. Maybe I should try an OEM bulb on the passenger side this
> time.

[Kevin McMurtrie]

In article >,
(Computer Prog) wrote:

> Could there be a voltage spike when the voltage swings back up?
>
> >Kevin McMurtrie > wrote in message news:<mcmurtri->
> >>More likely is the vibration. Frequent partial dimming
> >doesn't bother light bulbs at all.

The battery will easily consume full alternator power after being forced
down to 11V. There won't be overshooting when the load is removed.

Vibrations definitely kill filament light bulbs. Tungsten is springy
but brittle.

[Computer Prog]

I didn't touch the glass. Maybe I should have cleaned them with
alcohol before mounting. The mounting area looks perfect. The lock
ring and the mounting area are both undamaged.

I am going to try an OEM bulb from the dealer this time.


"Scott Johnson" wrote in message >...
> you didn't touch the glass of the bulb with your bare hand did you? halogen
> bulbs blow quick if you get skin oil on them.

[DoUbLeStUf]

I would have to guess that its not the voltage droping thats making the
lights blow, its the intense vibrations that a 3 amp, 0 guage setup
makes.

House lights are on dimmer switches, and dim all the time, but I bet if
u called an earthquake specialist they would report that more
lightbulbs blow out during an earthquake then from dimming. :D

Just my 2 cents.
By the way, what kinda bump is in your trunk?


--
DoUbLeStUf
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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[Scott Badman]

"DoUbLeStUf" > wrote in message
...
>
> I would have to guess that its not the voltage droping thats making the
> lights blow, its the intense vibrations that a 3 amp, 0 guage setup
> makes.
>
> House lights are on dimmer switches, and dim all the time, but I bet if
> u called an earthquake specialist they would report that more
> lightbulbs blow out during an earthquake then from dimming. :D

I haven't seen anything else of this thread, but I'll advise what I can.

The halogen headlamps in a motor vehicle function differently to the
incandescent blubs in your home. The halogen bulb is a hive of activity
with bits of the filament breaking away, then refusing, breaking away,
refusing, etc etc in a continuous cycle.

When the lamp runs under voltage this fusing process doesn't take place
properly, causing wearing of the filament. Hit the lamp with full voltage
again, and the deteriorated filament can not handle the current, and blows.

The constant vibrating forces present on the globe don't help either :)

[Chad Wahls]

"Scott Badman" > wrote in message
...
> "DoUbLeStUf" > wrote in message
> ...
> The halogen headlamps in a motor vehicle function differently to the
> incandescent blubs in your home. The halogen bulb is a hive of activity
> with bits of the filament breaking away, then refusing, breaking away,
> refusing, etc etc in a continuous cycle.
>
> When the lamp runs under voltage this fusing process doesn't take place
> properly, causing wearing of the filament. Hit the lamp with full voltage
> again, and the deteriorated filament can not handle the current, and
blows.
>
> The constant vibrating forces present on the globe don't help either :)
>
>

I highly doubt the magic composition of halogen lamps in the automotive
environment differ from those used in professional lighting applications and
homes where they are dimmed all the time. In pro apps the lamps are almost
NEVER full tilt. I have found them to last longer dimmed. As long as that
baby is making light this chemical process is happening. I imagine it's a
fairly linear function. I suspect vibration and voltage overshoot.

Chad

[Scott Badman]

"Chad Wahls" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Scott Badman" > wrote in message
> ...
> > "DoUbLeStUf" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > The halogen headlamps in a motor vehicle function differently to the
> > incandescent blubs in your home. The halogen bulb is a hive of activity
> > with bits of the filament breaking away, then refusing, breaking away,
> > refusing, etc etc in a continuous cycle.
> >
> > When the lamp runs under voltage this fusing process doesn't take place
> > properly, causing wearing of the filament. Hit the lamp with full
voltage
> > again, and the deteriorated filament can not handle the current, and
> blows.
> >
> > The constant vibrating forces present on the globe don't help either :)
> >
> >
>
> I highly doubt the magic composition of halogen lamps in the automotive
> environment differ from those used in professional lighting applications
and
> homes where they are dimmed all the time. In pro apps the lamps are
almost
> NEVER full tilt. I have found them to last longer dimmed. As long as
that
> baby is making light this chemical process is happening. I imagine it's a
> fairly linear function. I suspect vibration and voltage overshoot.
>
> Chad
>
>

I too know about the life increase with filament globes at reduced voltages,
it is an inherent part of my job to know this. I also know however that I
ran 130W globes on my car through insufficient wiring for a while, then
after upgrading the wiring they both blew inside of a week!

Hence forming the basis of the only explanation I could think of, even if it
did go against what I already knew!

[Chad Wahls]

"Scott Badman" > wrote in message
...
> "Chad Wahls" > wrote in message
> ...
> >
> > "Scott Badman" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > "DoUbLeStUf" > wrote in message
> > > ...
> > > The halogen headlamps in a motor vehicle function differently to the
> > > incandescent blubs in your home. The halogen bulb is a hive of
activity
> > > with bits of the filament breaking away, then refusing, breaking away,
> > > refusing, etc etc in a continuous cycle.
> > >
> > > When the lamp runs under voltage this fusing process doesn't take
place
> > > properly, causing wearing of the filament. Hit the lamp with full
> voltage
> > > again, and the deteriorated filament can not handle the current, and
> > blows.
> > >
> > > The constant vibrating forces present on the globe don't help either
:)
> > >
> > >
> >
> > I highly doubt the magic composition of halogen lamps in the automotive
> > environment differ from those used in professional lighting applications
> and
> > homes where they are dimmed all the time. In pro apps the lamps are
> almost
> > NEVER full tilt. I have found them to last longer dimmed. As long as
> that
> > baby is making light this chemical process is happening. I imagine it's
a
> > fairly linear function. I suspect vibration and voltage overshoot.
> >
> > Chad
> >
> >
>
> I too know about the life increase with filament globes at reduced
voltages,
> it is an inherent part of my job to know this. I also know however that I
> ran 130W globes on my car through insufficient wiring for a while, then
> after upgrading the wiring they both blew inside of a week!
>
> Hence forming the basis of the only explanation I could think of, even if
it
> did go against what I already knew!
>
>

This is a long term scenario not short term like momentarily dimming
headlights. Did you get new 130W lamps? Did they do OK?

I just don't buy the fact that by running a lamp under it's specd voltage
will shorten it's life if the specd voltage is applied.

I still go for vibration and voltage overshoot.

Chad

[Scott Badman]

"Chad Wahls" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Scott Badman" > wrote in message
> ...
> > "Chad Wahls" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > >
> > > "Scott Badman" > wrote in message
> > > ...
> > > > "DoUbLeStUf" > wrote in message
> > > > ...
> > > > The halogen headlamps in a motor vehicle function differently to the
> > > > incandescent blubs in your home. The halogen bulb is a hive of
> activity
> > > > with bits of the filament breaking away, then refusing, breaking
away,
> > > > refusing, etc etc in a continuous cycle.
> > > >
> > > > When the lamp runs under voltage this fusing process doesn't take
> place
> > > > properly, causing wearing of the filament. Hit the lamp with full
> > voltage
> > > > again, and the deteriorated filament can not handle the current, and
> > > blows.
> > > >
> > > > The constant vibrating forces present on the globe don't help either
> :)
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > I highly doubt the magic composition of halogen lamps in the
automotive
> > > environment differ from those used in professional lighting
applications
> > and
> > > homes where they are dimmed all the time. In pro apps the lamps are
> > almost
> > > NEVER full tilt. I have found them to last longer dimmed. As long as
> > that
> > > baby is making light this chemical process is happening. I imagine
it's
> a
> > > fairly linear function. I suspect vibration and voltage overshoot.
> > >
> > > Chad
> > >
> > >
> >
> > I too know about the life increase with filament globes at reduced
> voltages,
> > it is an inherent part of my job to know this. I also know however that
I
> > ran 130W globes on my car through insufficient wiring for a while, then
> > after upgrading the wiring they both blew inside of a week!
> >
> > Hence forming the basis of the only explanation I could think of, even
if
> it
> > did go against what I already knew!
> >
> >
>
> This is a long term scenario not short term like momentarily dimming
> headlights. Did you get new 130W lamps? Did they do OK?
>
> I just don't buy the fact that by running a lamp under it's specd voltage
> will shorten it's life if the specd voltage is applied.
>
> I still go for vibration and voltage overshoot.
>
> Chad
>
>

Who can tell. All I know is that after a while the lamps were starting to
play up, because the connections had started melting. I rewired it with a
couple of relays and heavy duty cabling, and within a week they both popped.
So again, who knows?

[Chad Wahls]

"Scott Badman" > wrote in message
...

>
> Who can tell. All I know is that after a while the lamps were starting to
> play up, because the connections had started melting. I rewired it with a
> couple of relays and heavy duty cabling, and within a week they both
popped.
> So again, who knows?
>
>

Bummer, but the good thing is that you got it taken care of before it tore
up the headlight switch. most newer cars have relays, but mine.... I learned
the hard way, at night, no moon :)

Chad

[Scott Badman]

"Chad Wahls" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Scott Badman" > wrote in message
> ...
>
> >
> > Who can tell. All I know is that after a while the lamps were starting
to
> > play up, because the connections had started melting. I rewired it with
a
> > couple of relays and heavy duty cabling, and within a week they both
> popped.
> > So again, who knows?
> >
> >
>
> Bummer, but the good thing is that you got it taken care of before it tore
> up the headlight switch. most newer cars have relays, but mine.... I
learned
> the hard way, at night, no moon :)
>
> Chad
>

Went there the other week with my GF's '69 Chrysler hardtop. Couldn't
believe they run all the current through the interior switch! A head light
relay and some heavier guage cabling later, and the lights are much
brighter!
>

[DoUbLeStUf]

If it keeps happening, you could always try putting some dynamat around
the outside of the headlight housing. May reduce some vibrations.


--
DoUbLeStUf
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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