Mic Stand Die

[Greg Taylor]

Where's a good place to get a 5/8" die for recutting threads on mic stands?

[Scott Dorsey]

In article >,
Greg Taylor > wrote:
>Where's a good place to get a 5/8" die for recutting threads on mic stands?

MSC stocks them at reasonable prices; I think they are eight bucks each.

BUT, if these are stands with rolled threads, recutting them with a die will
not help. When the rolled threads are damaged, there's nothing left to
recut. Sadly most of the cheaper stands are made this way.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Scott Dorsey]

In article >,
Greg Taylor > wrote:
>Where's a good place to get a 5/8" die for recutting threads on mic stands?

MSC stocks them at reasonable prices; I think they are eight bucks each.

BUT, if these are stands with rolled threads, recutting them with a die will
not help. When the rolled threads are damaged, there's nothing left to
recut. Sadly most of the cheaper stands are made this way.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Pooh Bear]

Ken Platt wrote:

> Sorry to Scott this message was meant for the group
>
> The best way to protect your cheap stands is to not let lead singers near
> them. There is something about a singing voice that makes it impossible to
> understand that you need to LOOSEN before you attempt to move the boom.
> Yes, I also have attempted to rethread cheaper stands with no luck.
> ken

I protect the 5/8" thread ( on both stands and mic holders ) by using ( easily
replaceable ) 3/8" adaptors. Actually, the adaptors don't need replacing since
the coarser thread doesn't seem to strip.


Graham

[Pooh Bear]

Ken Platt wrote:

> Sorry to Scott this message was meant for the group
>
> The best way to protect your cheap stands is to not let lead singers near
> them. There is something about a singing voice that makes it impossible to
> understand that you need to LOOSEN before you attempt to move the boom.
> Yes, I also have attempted to rethread cheaper stands with no luck.
> ken

I protect the 5/8" thread ( on both stands and mic holders ) by using ( easily
replaceable ) 3/8" adaptors. Actually, the adaptors don't need replacing since
the coarser thread doesn't seem to strip.


Graham

[Rob Reedijk]

Pooh Bear > wrote:

> I protect the 5/8" thread ( on both stands and mic holders ) by using ( easily
> replaceable ) 3/8" adaptors. Actually, the adaptors don't need replacing since
> the coarser thread doesn't seem to strip.

Yeesh---those damn adaptors. Always have to remember to keep the slot side
towards the stand and not the clip. Otherwise I might not be able to
get the adaptor out. I hate those things.

Rob R.

[Rob Reedijk]

Pooh Bear > wrote:

> I protect the 5/8" thread ( on both stands and mic holders ) by using ( easily
> replaceable ) 3/8" adaptors. Actually, the adaptors don't need replacing since
> the coarser thread doesn't seem to strip.

Yeesh---those damn adaptors. Always have to remember to keep the slot side
towards the stand and not the clip. Otherwise I might not be able to
get the adaptor out. I hate those things.

Rob R.

[Hal Laurent]

"Rob Reedijk" > wrote in message
...
> Pooh Bear > wrote:
>
> > I protect the 5/8" thread ( on both stands and mic holders ) by using
( easily
> > replaceable ) 3/8" adaptors. Actually, the adaptors don't need replacing
since
> > the coarser thread doesn't seem to strip.
>
> Yeesh---those damn adaptors. Always have to remember to keep the slot
side
> towards the stand and not the clip. Otherwise I might not be able to
> get the adaptor out. I hate those things.

I hear you on that! I have some that have slots at both ends. I like those
better.

What I really hate is that my Schoeps shock mounts have the 5/8" threads
in plastic, and they don't seem to mate well with some of my stands. I
end up using end-to-end 5/8" to 3/8" and 3/8" to 5/8" adaptors with them.

Hal Laurent
Baltimore

[Hal Laurent]

"Rob Reedijk" > wrote in message
...
> Pooh Bear > wrote:
>
> > I protect the 5/8" thread ( on both stands and mic holders ) by using
( easily
> > replaceable ) 3/8" adaptors. Actually, the adaptors don't need replacing
since
> > the coarser thread doesn't seem to strip.
>
> Yeesh---those damn adaptors. Always have to remember to keep the slot
side
> towards the stand and not the clip. Otherwise I might not be able to
> get the adaptor out. I hate those things.

I hear you on that! I have some that have slots at both ends. I like those
better.

What I really hate is that my Schoeps shock mounts have the 5/8" threads
in plastic, and they don't seem to mate well with some of my stands. I
end up using end-to-end 5/8" to 3/8" and 3/8" to 5/8" adaptors with them.

Hal Laurent
Baltimore

[EganMedia]

I've shouted this at many a mic stand.


Joe Egan
EMP
Colchester, VT
www.eganmedia.com

[EganMedia]

I've shouted this at many a mic stand.


Joe Egan
EMP
Colchester, VT
www.eganmedia.com

[Kurt Albershardt]

Pooh Bear wrote:

> Ken Platt wrote:
>
>> The best way to protect your cheap stands is ...
>
>
> I protect the 5/8" thread ( on both stands and mic holders ) by using
> (easily replaceable ) 3/8" adaptors. Actually, the adaptors don't need
> replacing since the coarser thread doesn't seem to strip.

EU versions of the K&M stands which have 3/8" Whitworth threads. In addition to the aforementioned increase in durability, they are far less likely to be borrowed/stolen in the US ;>

[Kurt Albershardt]

Pooh Bear wrote:

> Ken Platt wrote:
>
>> The best way to protect your cheap stands is ...
>
>
> I protect the 5/8" thread ( on both stands and mic holders ) by using
> (easily replaceable ) 3/8" adaptors. Actually, the adaptors don't need
> replacing since the coarser thread doesn't seem to strip.

EU versions of the K&M stands which have 3/8" Whitworth threads. In addition to the aforementioned increase in durability, they are far less likely to be borrowed/stolen in the US ;>

[philicorda]

On Fri, 17 Sep 2004 21:44:14 +0000, EganMedia wrote:

> I've shouted this at many a mic stand.

Does anyone make a mic stand with 'teeth' on the moveable joints like a
drum stand? I've adapted a couple of cymbal stands, but they are a bit
heavyweight, and have the triangle legs which take up space. They never
droop.



>
>
> Joe Egan
> EMP
> Colchester, VT
> www.eganmedia.com

[philicorda]

On Fri, 17 Sep 2004 21:44:14 +0000, EganMedia wrote:

> I've shouted this at many a mic stand.

Does anyone make a mic stand with 'teeth' on the moveable joints like a
drum stand? I've adapted a couple of cymbal stands, but they are a bit
heavyweight, and have the triangle legs which take up space. They never
droop.



>
>
> Joe Egan
> EMP
> Colchester, VT
> www.eganmedia.com

[ItsTooLoud]

>Does anyone make a mic stand with 'teeth' on the moveable joints like a
>drum stand? I've adapted a couple of cymbal stands, but they are a bit
>heavyweight, and have the triangle legs which take up space. They never
>droop.

On Stage makes some adaptors and short booms with toothed clutches. I get them
at the local GC.

Paul Andre

[ItsTooLoud]

>Does anyone make a mic stand with 'teeth' on the moveable joints like a
>drum stand? I've adapted a couple of cymbal stands, but they are a bit
>heavyweight, and have the triangle legs which take up space. They never
>droop.

On Stage makes some adaptors and short booms with toothed clutches. I get them
at the local GC.

Paul Andre

[Pooh Bear]

Rob Reedijk wrote:

> Pooh Bear > wrote:
>
> > I protect the 5/8" thread ( on both stands and mic holders ) by using ( easily
> > replaceable ) 3/8" adaptors. Actually, the adaptors don't need replacing since
> > the coarser thread doesn't seem to strip.
>
> Yeesh---those damn adaptors. Always have to remember to keep the slot side
> towards the stand and not the clip. Otherwise I might not be able to
> get the adaptor out. I hate those things.

I leave them in place all the time and forget about using the fragile 5/8" thread
and just use the 3/8" which seems to be totally rugged.


Graham

[Pooh Bear]

Rob Reedijk wrote:

> Pooh Bear > wrote:
>
> > I protect the 5/8" thread ( on both stands and mic holders ) by using ( easily
> > replaceable ) 3/8" adaptors. Actually, the adaptors don't need replacing since
> > the coarser thread doesn't seem to strip.
>
> Yeesh---those damn adaptors. Always have to remember to keep the slot side
> towards the stand and not the clip. Otherwise I might not be able to
> get the adaptor out. I hate those things.

I leave them in place all the time and forget about using the fragile 5/8" thread
and just use the 3/8" which seems to be totally rugged.


Graham

[Pooh Bear]

Hal Laurent wrote:

> What I really hate is that my Schoeps shock mounts have the 5/8" threads
> in plastic, and they don't seem to mate well with some of my stands. I
> end up using end-to-end 5/8" to 3/8" and 3/8" to 5/8" adaptors with them.

Plastic mic clips are another good reason to use the adaptors too.


Graham

[Pooh Bear]

Hal Laurent wrote:

> What I really hate is that my Schoeps shock mounts have the 5/8" threads
> in plastic, and they don't seem to mate well with some of my stands. I
> end up using end-to-end 5/8" to 3/8" and 3/8" to 5/8" adaptors with them.

Plastic mic clips are another good reason to use the adaptors too.


Graham

[philicorda]

On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 21:42:30 +0000, ItsTooLoud wrote:

>>Does anyone make a mic stand with 'teeth' on the moveable joints like a
>>drum stand? I've adapted a couple of cymbal stands, but they are a bit
>>heavyweight, and have the triangle legs which take up space. They never
>>droop.
>
> On Stage makes some adaptors and short booms with toothed clutches. I get them
> at the local GC.
>
> Paul Andre

Thanks. That rolling boom stand they do looks good for the money too.

[philicorda]

On Sat, 18 Sep 2004 21:42:30 +0000, ItsTooLoud wrote:

>>Does anyone make a mic stand with 'teeth' on the moveable joints like a
>>drum stand? I've adapted a couple of cymbal stands, but they are a bit
>>heavyweight, and have the triangle legs which take up space. They never
>>droop.
>
> On Stage makes some adaptors and short booms with toothed clutches. I get them
> at the local GC.
>
> Paul Andre

Thanks. That rolling boom stand they do looks good for the money too.

[Hal Laurent]

"Pooh Bear" > wrote in message
...

> I leave them in place all the time and forget about using the fragile 5/8"
thread
> and just use the 3/8" which seems to be totally rugged.

I've tried that, but I've found that I can't depend on the adaptor to stay
on the part that I want it to stay on when unscrewing things.

Hal Laurent
Baltimore

[Hal Laurent]

"Pooh Bear" > wrote in message
...

> I leave them in place all the time and forget about using the fragile 5/8"
thread
> and just use the 3/8" which seems to be totally rugged.

I've tried that, but I've found that I can't depend on the adaptor to stay
on the part that I want it to stay on when unscrewing things.

Hal Laurent
Baltimore

[Kendall]

"Hal Laurent" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Pooh Bear" > wrote in message
> ...
>
> > I leave them in place all the time and forget about using the fragile
5/8"
> thread
> > and just use the 3/8" which seems to be totally rugged.
>
> I've tried that, but I've found that I can't depend on the adaptor to stay
> on the part that I want it to stay on when unscrewing things.

One word: Threadlocker.

They even make some that you can remove when you want to, but stays in place
until you specifically want to undo it.

Kendall


>
> Hal Laurent
> Baltimore
>
>

[Kendall]

"Hal Laurent" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Pooh Bear" > wrote in message
> ...
>
> > I leave them in place all the time and forget about using the fragile
5/8"
> thread
> > and just use the 3/8" which seems to be totally rugged.
>
> I've tried that, but I've found that I can't depend on the adaptor to stay
> on the part that I want it to stay on when unscrewing things.

One word: Threadlocker.

They even make some that you can remove when you want to, but stays in place
until you specifically want to undo it.

Kendall


>
> Hal Laurent
> Baltimore
>
>

[Pooh Bear]

Hal Laurent wrote:

> "Pooh Bear" > wrote in message
> ...
>
> > I leave them in place all the time and forget about using the fragile 5/8"
> thread
> > and just use the 3/8" which seems to be totally rugged.
>
> I've tried that, but I've found that I can't depend on the adaptor to stay
> on the part that I want it to stay on when unscrewing things.

Try a bit more brute force - it works - trust me ! ;-)

Graham

[Pooh Bear]

Hal Laurent wrote:

> "Pooh Bear" > wrote in message
> ...
>
> > I leave them in place all the time and forget about using the fragile 5/8"
> thread
> > and just use the 3/8" which seems to be totally rugged.
>
> I've tried that, but I've found that I can't depend on the adaptor to stay
> on the part that I want it to stay on when unscrewing things.

Try a bit more brute force - it works - trust me ! ;-)

Graham

[Richard Kuschel]

>
>EU versions of the K&M stands which have 3/8" Whitworth threads. In addition
>to the aforementioned increase in durability, they are far less likely to be
>borrowed/stolen in the US ;>
>

They are not Whitworth.
They are standard 3/8 by 16 thread.

Rod and couplers are available in any decent hardware store.

Whitworth is a British standard which which was pretty much obsolete in the
60's.

Only the fuel system and carburetors use Whitworth on my '68 E-Type.
Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

[Richard Kuschel]

>
>EU versions of the K&M stands which have 3/8" Whitworth threads. In addition
>to the aforementioned increase in durability, they are far less likely to be
>borrowed/stolen in the US ;>
>

They are not Whitworth.
They are standard 3/8 by 16 thread.

Rod and couplers are available in any decent hardware store.

Whitworth is a British standard which which was pretty much obsolete in the
60's.

Only the fuel system and carburetors use Whitworth on my '68 E-Type.
Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

[Greg Taylor]

Thanks to the ONE actual recommendation for a die supplier. I placed my
order today. The ensuing digression is of course typical for this list.

[Greg Taylor]

Thanks to the ONE actual recommendation for a die supplier. I placed my
order today. The ensuing digression is of course typical for this list.

[Scott Dorsey]

Richard Kuschel > wrote:
>
>Whitworth is a British standard which which was pretty much obsolete in the
>60's.
>
>Only the fuel system and carburetors use Whitworth on my '68 E-Type.

Whitworth and BS threads still live on in India, much like the old British
prewar electrical outlets. It was quite a shock to me to find them on
currently-manufactured Indian radio gear.
--scott


--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Scott Dorsey]

Richard Kuschel > wrote:
>
>Whitworth is a British standard which which was pretty much obsolete in the
>60's.
>
>Only the fuel system and carburetors use Whitworth on my '68 E-Type.

Whitworth and BS threads still live on in India, much like the old British
prewar electrical outlets. It was quite a shock to me to find them on
currently-manufactured Indian radio gear.
--scott


--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Kurt Albershardt]

Richard Kuschel wrote:

>>EU versions of the K&M stands which have 3/8" Whitworth threads. In addition
>>to the aforementioned increase in durability, they are far less likely to be
>>borrowed/stolen in the US ;>
>
>
> They are not Whitworth.
> They are standard 3/8 by 16 thread.

That's not what I have been told.




> Rod and couplers are available in any decent hardware store.

Close enough if you don't abuse them.




> Whitworth is a British standard which which was pretty much obsolete
> in the 60's.

It's the same pitch and diameter, but 55º versus 60º threads.




> Only the fuel system and carburetors use Whitworth on my '68 E-Type.

Vivid memories of old Triumphs and MG's appear in my mind...

[Kurt Albershardt]

Richard Kuschel wrote:

>>EU versions of the K&M stands which have 3/8" Whitworth threads. In addition
>>to the aforementioned increase in durability, they are far less likely to be
>>borrowed/stolen in the US ;>
>
>
> They are not Whitworth.
> They are standard 3/8 by 16 thread.

That's not what I have been told.




> Rod and couplers are available in any decent hardware store.

Close enough if you don't abuse them.




> Whitworth is a British standard which which was pretty much obsolete
> in the 60's.

It's the same pitch and diameter, but 55º versus 60º threads.




> Only the fuel system and carburetors use Whitworth on my '68 E-Type.

Vivid memories of old Triumphs and MG's appear in my mind...

[hank alrich]

Kurt Albershardt wrote:

> Vivid memories of old Triumphs and MG's appear in my mind...

Drive 'em in daylight, folks, so you can see where you're going.

--
ha

[hank alrich]

Kurt Albershardt wrote:

> Vivid memories of old Triumphs and MG's appear in my mind...

Drive 'em in daylight, folks, so you can see where you're going.

--
ha

[Jay Kadis]

In article >,
(hank alrich) wrote:

> Kurt Albershardt wrote:
>
> > Vivid memories of old Triumphs and MG's appear in my mind...
>
> Drive 'em in daylight, folks, so you can see where you're going.
>
> --
> ha

And what fell off...

-Jay
--
x------- Jay Kadis ------- x---- Jay's Attic Studio ------x
x Lecturer, Audio Engineer x Dexter Records x
x CCRMA, Stanford University x http://www.offbeats.com/ x
x---------- http://ccrma.stanford.edu/~jay/ ------------x

[Jay Kadis]

In article >,
(hank alrich) wrote:

> Kurt Albershardt wrote:
>
> > Vivid memories of old Triumphs and MG's appear in my mind...
>
> Drive 'em in daylight, folks, so you can see where you're going.
>
> --
> ha

And what fell off...

-Jay
--
x------- Jay Kadis ------- x---- Jay's Attic Studio ------x
x Lecturer, Audio Engineer x Dexter Records x
x CCRMA, Stanford University x http://www.offbeats.com/ x
x---------- http://ccrma.stanford.edu/~jay/ ------------x

[hollywood_steve]

\
>
> I leave them in place all the time and forget about using the fragile 5/8" thread
> and just use the 3/8" which seems to be totally rugged.
>
>
> Graham

This has probably been covered before, but....
Does anyone know how/why the audio world (USA subset)decided on the
unusual 5/8 -27 thread type for mic/stand hardware? Is it a legacy
left over from something else that we no longer use, or ....? It just
seems like too fine a thread for hardware that large. (just try and
find any 5/8 - 27 fittings in even a well-stocked hardware store)

steve

[hollywood_steve]

\
>
> I leave them in place all the time and forget about using the fragile 5/8" thread
> and just use the 3/8" which seems to be totally rugged.
>
>
> Graham

This has probably been covered before, but....
Does anyone know how/why the audio world (USA subset)decided on the
unusual 5/8 -27 thread type for mic/stand hardware? Is it a legacy
left over from something else that we no longer use, or ....? It just
seems like too fine a thread for hardware that large. (just try and
find any 5/8 - 27 fittings in even a well-stocked hardware store)

steve

[Richard Kuschel]

>
>
>> Whitworth is a British standard which which was pretty much obsolete
>> in the 60's.
>
>It's the same pitch and diameter, but 55º versus 60º threads.
>
>
>
>
>> Only the fuel system and carburetors use Whitworth on my '68 E-Type.
>
>
>Vivid memories of old Triumphs and MG's appear in my mind...
>
>
>

Kurt, you may be correct that they are Whitworth, (BSW 3/8) but it absolutely
boggles my mind that anybody, especially a European mainland country, would use
a Whitworth thread for anything in this day and age.

I checked the threads on my booms very carefully and several adapters that I
have and could not detect that 5 degree thread difference.

I'll have to check with my buddy who repairs old British motorcycles. He has
the proper thread gauges.
Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

[Richard Kuschel]

>
>
>> Whitworth is a British standard which which was pretty much obsolete
>> in the 60's.
>
>It's the same pitch and diameter, but 55º versus 60º threads.
>
>
>
>
>> Only the fuel system and carburetors use Whitworth on my '68 E-Type.
>
>
>Vivid memories of old Triumphs and MG's appear in my mind...
>
>
>

Kurt, you may be correct that they are Whitworth, (BSW 3/8) but it absolutely
boggles my mind that anybody, especially a European mainland country, would use
a Whitworth thread for anything in this day and age.

I checked the threads on my booms very carefully and several adapters that I
have and could not detect that 5 degree thread difference.

I'll have to check with my buddy who repairs old British motorcycles. He has
the proper thread gauges.
Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

[Richard Kuschel]

>
>>
>> I leave them in place all the time and forget about using the fragile
>5/8" thread
>> and just use the 3/8" which seems to be totally rugged.
>>
>>
>> Graham
>
>This has probably been covered before, but....
>Does anyone know how/why the audio world (USA subset)decided on the
>unusual 5/8 -27 thread type for mic/stand hardware? Is it a legacy
>left over from something else that we no longer use, or ....? It just
>seems like too fine a thread for hardware that large. (just try and
>find any 5/8 - 27 fittings in even a well-stocked hardware store)
>
>steve

>
>

I think that the -27 thread pitch has its origins in electrical connections but
cannot confirm this Scott?--Anyone?

Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

[Richard Kuschel]

>
>>
>> I leave them in place all the time and forget about using the fragile
>5/8" thread
>> and just use the 3/8" which seems to be totally rugged.
>>
>>
>> Graham
>
>This has probably been covered before, but....
>Does anyone know how/why the audio world (USA subset)decided on the
>unusual 5/8 -27 thread type for mic/stand hardware? Is it a legacy
>left over from something else that we no longer use, or ....? It just
>seems like too fine a thread for hardware that large. (just try and
>find any 5/8 - 27 fittings in even a well-stocked hardware store)
>
>steve

>
>

I think that the -27 thread pitch has its origins in electrical connections but
cannot confirm this Scott?--Anyone?

Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

[Pooh Bear]

hollywood_steve wrote:

> This has probably been covered before, but....
> Does anyone know how/why the audio world (USA subset)decided on the
> unusual 5/8 -27 thread type for mic/stand hardware? Is it a legacy
> left over from something else that we no longer use, or ....? It just
> seems like too fine a thread for hardware that large. (just try and
> find any 5/8 - 27 fittings in even a well-stocked hardware store)

Just for fun - some UK threads were 5/8 - 26 ! You could screw mismatching ( 26&27 )
parts a few turns but not much more.

The 3/8" thread makes *far* more sense to me.

Graham

[Pooh Bear]

hollywood_steve wrote:

> This has probably been covered before, but....
> Does anyone know how/why the audio world (USA subset)decided on the
> unusual 5/8 -27 thread type for mic/stand hardware? Is it a legacy
> left over from something else that we no longer use, or ....? It just
> seems like too fine a thread for hardware that large. (just try and
> find any 5/8 - 27 fittings in even a well-stocked hardware store)

Just for fun - some UK threads were 5/8 - 26 ! You could screw mismatching ( 26&27 )
parts a few turns but not much more.

The 3/8" thread makes *far* more sense to me.

Graham

[Pooh Bear]

Richard Kuschel wrote:

> They are not Whitworth.

They look very similar to Whitworth.

> They are standard 3/8 by 16 thread.

Which 'standard' is that ? American UNC ?


> Whitworth is a British standard which which was pretty much obsolete in the
> 60's.

So was BA - but it lived on for a while. Metric threads are mainly used here in
the UK now but I'm not convinced that they are always the most practical for a
given job.


Graham

[Pooh Bear]

Richard Kuschel wrote:

> They are not Whitworth.

They look very similar to Whitworth.

> They are standard 3/8 by 16 thread.

Which 'standard' is that ? American UNC ?


> Whitworth is a British standard which which was pretty much obsolete in the
> 60's.

So was BA - but it lived on for a while. Metric threads are mainly used here in
the UK now but I'm not convinced that they are always the most practical for a
given job.


Graham

[Pooh Bear]

Richard Kuschel wrote:

> Kurt, you may be correct that they are Whitworth, (BSW 3/8) but it absolutely
> boggles my mind that anybody, especially a European mainland country, would use
> a Whitworth thread for anything in this day and age.

Because it works for the job it's designed to do ?

When I did theatre stage lighting just about everything ( lanterns clamps etc ) was
held together with 5/8" Whitworth. Nice easy thread to work with - durable and
strong.


Graham

[Pooh Bear]

Richard Kuschel wrote:

> Kurt, you may be correct that they are Whitworth, (BSW 3/8) but it absolutely
> boggles my mind that anybody, especially a European mainland country, would use
> a Whitworth thread for anything in this day and age.

Because it works for the job it's designed to do ?

When I did theatre stage lighting just about everything ( lanterns clamps etc ) was
held together with 5/8" Whitworth. Nice easy thread to work with - durable and
strong.


Graham

[Mike Rivers]

In article > writes:

> Thanks to the ONE actual recommendation for a die supplier. I placed my
> order today. The ensuing digression is of course typical for this list.

Valuable to know about, though. Since this is an audio newsgroup,
people involved in audio use mic stands, and mic stands have threads,
and those threads get stripped, it's a pretty good guess that you're
asking about a die because you want to re-thread a stand. The
"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
you won't be successful if you use a die.

But MSC is the right place to buy one if you want to make your own mic
stand hardware (you should have said something - we might have had a
different and more interesting discussin) or adapters.

Did you buy a tap while you're at it?

--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

[Mike Rivers]

In article > writes:

> Thanks to the ONE actual recommendation for a die supplier. I placed my
> order today. The ensuing digression is of course typical for this list.

Valuable to know about, though. Since this is an audio newsgroup,
people involved in audio use mic stands, and mic stands have threads,
and those threads get stripped, it's a pretty good guess that you're
asking about a die because you want to re-thread a stand. The
"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
you won't be successful if you use a die.

But MSC is the right place to buy one if you want to make your own mic
stand hardware (you should have said something - we might have had a
different and more interesting discussin) or adapters.

Did you buy a tap while you're at it?

--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

[Noel Bachelor]

On or about 21 Sep 2004 14:03:51 GMT, Richard Kuschel allegedly wrote:

> Whitworth is a British standard which which was pretty much obsolete in the
> 60's.

They are still around in many uses. Just that metric is used in almost
all equipment these days. But I can still go to a hardware shop here and
get Whit threads, they are quite regularly used for odd hardware needs.

Whitworth bolt and nut head sizes though, were 'pretty much obsolete in
the 60's', having been replaced by AF (across the flat) heads.

I was a toolmaker in a former life, in the 70s and 80s.


Noel Bachelor noelbachelorAT(From:_domain)
Language Recordings Inc (Darwin Australia)

[Noel Bachelor]

On or about 21 Sep 2004 14:03:51 GMT, Richard Kuschel allegedly wrote:

> Whitworth is a British standard which which was pretty much obsolete in the
> 60's.

They are still around in many uses. Just that metric is used in almost
all equipment these days. But I can still go to a hardware shop here and
get Whit threads, they are quite regularly used for odd hardware needs.

Whitworth bolt and nut head sizes though, were 'pretty much obsolete in
the 60's', having been replaced by AF (across the flat) heads.

I was a toolmaker in a former life, in the 70s and 80s.


Noel Bachelor noelbachelorAT(From:_domain)
Language Recordings Inc (Darwin Australia)

[Willie K.Yee, M.D.]

On 22 Sep 2004 07:20:45 -0400, (Mike Rivers)
wrote:

> The
>"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
>you won't be successful if you use a die.
>

Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?

Willie K. Yee, M.D. http://users.bestweb.net/~wkyee
Developer of Problem Knowledge Couplers for Psychiatry http://www.pkc.com
Webmaster and Guitarist for the Big Blue Big Band http://www.bigbluebigband.org

[Willie K.Yee, M.D.]

On 22 Sep 2004 07:20:45 -0400, (Mike Rivers)
wrote:

> The
>"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
>you won't be successful if you use a die.
>

Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?

Willie K. Yee, M.D. http://users.bestweb.net/~wkyee
Developer of Problem Knowledge Couplers for Psychiatry http://www.pkc.com
Webmaster and Guitarist for the Big Blue Big Band http://www.bigbluebigband.org

[Greg Taylor]

This was the whole point of my original post of this thread. The price
of the die (around $18) will pay for itself after the first couple of
stands. I use an electrical pipe cutter, though, rather than a hack saw.

Willie K.Yee, M.D. wrote:
....
> Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
> the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
> stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?

[Greg Taylor]

This was the whole point of my original post of this thread. The price
of the die (around $18) will pay for itself after the first couple of
stands. I use an electrical pipe cutter, though, rather than a hack saw.

Willie K.Yee, M.D. wrote:
....
> Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
> the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
> stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?

[Scott Dorsey]

Willie K.Yee, M.D. <wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet> wrote:
>On 22 Sep 2004 07:20:45 -0400, (Mike Rivers)
>wrote:
>
>> The
>>"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
>>you won't be successful if you use a die.
>>
>
>Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
>the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
>stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?

No, because they are made with rolled threads, not cut ones. The threads
extend out past the edge of the pipe, rather than being cut into the pipe.
Rolled threads are much weaker than cut ones too, and once they are lost
there's not much you can do. It's a lot faster and cheaper to make them,
though.
--scott


--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Scott Dorsey]

Willie K.Yee, M.D. <wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet> wrote:
>On 22 Sep 2004 07:20:45 -0400, (Mike Rivers)
>wrote:
>
>> The
>>"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
>>you won't be successful if you use a die.
>>
>
>Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
>the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
>stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?

No, because they are made with rolled threads, not cut ones. The threads
extend out past the edge of the pipe, rather than being cut into the pipe.
Rolled threads are much weaker than cut ones too, and once they are lost
there's not much you can do. It's a lot faster and cheaper to make them,
though.
--scott


--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Mike Rivers]

In article > wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet writes:

> Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
> the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
> stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?

No. The outside diameter of the tube is too small and the threads that
the die cuts will be very shallow. They'll look like threads and you
can screw something on to them, but it will strip easily.

The orignal threads are "rolled" which means that rather than cutting
metal away from a piece that's the diameter of the bottom of the
threads (too large to slip through a nut), the metal is pushed up so
the threaded part endes up being larger in diameter than the original
metal stock.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

[Mike Rivers]

In article > wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet writes:

> Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
> the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
> stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?

No. The outside diameter of the tube is too small and the threads that
the die cuts will be very shallow. They'll look like threads and you
can screw something on to them, but it will strip easily.

The orignal threads are "rolled" which means that rather than cutting
metal away from a piece that's the diameter of the bottom of the
threads (too large to slip through a nut), the metal is pushed up so
the threaded part endes up being larger in diameter than the original
metal stock.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

[Greg Taylor]

Funny. I just went and looked at the threads on my old (and new) Atlas
12C stands and none of them look like rolled threads. Are you talking
about different stands?

Mike Rivers wrote:
> In article > wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet writes:
>
>
>>Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
>>the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
>>stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?
>
>
> No. The outside diameter of the tube is too small and the threads that
> the die cuts will be very shallow. They'll look like threads and you
> can screw something on to them, but it will strip easily.
>
> The orignal threads are "rolled" which means that rather than cutting
> metal away from a piece that's the diameter of the bottom of the
> threads (too large to slip through a nut), the metal is pushed up so
> the threaded part endes up being larger in diameter than the original
> metal stock.

[Greg Taylor]

Funny. I just went and looked at the threads on my old (and new) Atlas
12C stands and none of them look like rolled threads. Are you talking
about different stands?

Mike Rivers wrote:
> In article > wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet writes:
>
>
>>Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
>>the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
>>stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?
>
>
> No. The outside diameter of the tube is too small and the threads that
> the die cuts will be very shallow. They'll look like threads and you
> can screw something on to them, but it will strip easily.
>
> The orignal threads are "rolled" which means that rather than cutting
> metal away from a piece that's the diameter of the bottom of the
> threads (too large to slip through a nut), the metal is pushed up so
> the threaded part endes up being larger in diameter than the original
> metal stock.

[Mike Rivers]

In article > writes:

> Funny. I just went and looked at the threads on my old (and new) Atlas
> 12C stands and none of them look like rolled threads. Are you talking
> about different stands?

Could be, but it's hard to tell by looking whether you have rolled
threads or not. I just measured the one Atlas stand that's near the
surface here. The diameter of the tubing is 0.625". The threaded part
is kind of eccentric, but the thread diameter measures between 0.595"
and 0.612" That might be enough meat to cut a thread.

One group of stands that I have here which have tubing that clearly
can't be re-threaded with a die are the K&M booms. But those have
threaded solid inserts pinned into the end, so the tubing isn't the
threaded part. I had one of those where the insert was lost and I
tried to thread the tubing. It was too small and the threads would
only hold a couple of mic clips.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

[Mike Rivers]

In article > writes:

> Funny. I just went and looked at the threads on my old (and new) Atlas
> 12C stands and none of them look like rolled threads. Are you talking
> about different stands?

Could be, but it's hard to tell by looking whether you have rolled
threads or not. I just measured the one Atlas stand that's near the
surface here. The diameter of the tubing is 0.625". The threaded part
is kind of eccentric, but the thread diameter measures between 0.595"
and 0.612" That might be enough meat to cut a thread.

One group of stands that I have here which have tubing that clearly
can't be re-threaded with a die are the K&M booms. But those have
threaded solid inserts pinned into the end, so the tubing isn't the
threaded part. I had one of those where the insert was lost and I
tried to thread the tubing. It was too small and the threads would
only hold a couple of mic clips.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

[Mike Rivers]

In article > writes:

> Funny. I just went and looked at the threads on my old (and new) Atlas
> 12C stands and none of them look like rolled threads. Are you talking
> about different stands?

Could be, but it's hard to tell by looking whether you have rolled
threads or not. I just measured the one Atlas stand that's near the
surface here. The diameter of the tubing is 0.625". The threaded part
is kind of eccentric, but the thread diameter measures between 0.595"
and 0.612" That might be enough meat to cut a thread.

One group of stands that I have here which have tubing that clearly
can't be re-threaded with a die are the K&M booms. But those have
threaded solid inserts pinned into the end, so the tubing isn't the
threaded part. I had one of those where the insert was lost and I
tried to thread the tubing. It was too small and the threads would
only hold a couple of mic clips.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

[Greg Taylor]

That makes sense with stands coming from outside the States. They are
manufactured to metric standards, then adapted for the US (that pinned
insert at the top). I found that out when I tried to mate an Atlas
stand to an Ultimate base (the ones that stack). Obviously rethreading
will only work on stands made in the US with the actual 5/8" tube.

Mike Rivers wrote:
....
> One group of stands that I have here which have tubing that clearly
> can't be re-threaded with a die are the K&M booms. But those have
> threaded solid inserts pinned into the end, so the tubing isn't the
> threaded part. I had one of those where the insert was lost and I
> tried to thread the tubing. It was too small and the threads would
> only hold a couple of mic clips.

[Greg Taylor]

That makes sense with stands coming from outside the States. They are
manufactured to metric standards, then adapted for the US (that pinned
insert at the top). I found that out when I tried to mate an Atlas
stand to an Ultimate base (the ones that stack). Obviously rethreading
will only work on stands made in the US with the actual 5/8" tube.

Mike Rivers wrote:
....
> One group of stands that I have here which have tubing that clearly
> can't be re-threaded with a die are the K&M booms. But those have
> threaded solid inserts pinned into the end, so the tubing isn't the
> threaded part. I had one of those where the insert was lost and I
> tried to thread the tubing. It was too small and the threads would
> only hold a couple of mic clips.

[Greg Taylor]

That makes sense with stands coming from outside the States. They are
manufactured to metric standards, then adapted for the US (that pinned
insert at the top). I found that out when I tried to mate an Atlas
stand to an Ultimate base (the ones that stack). Obviously rethreading
will only work on stands made in the US with the actual 5/8" tube.

Mike Rivers wrote:
....
> One group of stands that I have here which have tubing that clearly
> can't be re-threaded with a die are the K&M booms. But those have
> threaded solid inserts pinned into the end, so the tubing isn't the
> threaded part. I had one of those where the insert was lost and I
> tried to thread the tubing. It was too small and the threads would
> only hold a couple of mic clips.

[U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles]

On Fri, 24 Sep 2004 15:53:10 -0400, Greg Taylor >
wrote:
> That makes sense with stands coming from outside the States. They are
> manufactured to metric standards, then adapted for the US (that pinned
> insert at the top). I found that out when I tried to mate an Atlas
> stand to an Ultimate base (the ones that stack). Obviously rethreading
> will only work on stands made in the US with the actual 5/8" tube.
>

Lost in this discussion: I don't recall anyone saying that they'd
measured the stand itself to know whether or not it's the right diameter
to be rethreaded.

Seems to me the proof is in the measurement rather than anything we
might come up with at a distance.

[U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles]

On Fri, 24 Sep 2004 15:53:10 -0400, Greg Taylor >
wrote:
> That makes sense with stands coming from outside the States. They are
> manufactured to metric standards, then adapted for the US (that pinned
> insert at the top). I found that out when I tried to mate an Atlas
> stand to an Ultimate base (the ones that stack). Obviously rethreading
> will only work on stands made in the US with the actual 5/8" tube.
>

Lost in this discussion: I don't recall anyone saying that they'd
measured the stand itself to know whether or not it's the right diameter
to be rethreaded.

Seems to me the proof is in the measurement rather than anything we
might come up with at a distance.

[U-CDK_CHARLES\\Charles]

On Fri, 24 Sep 2004 15:53:10 -0400, Greg Taylor >
wrote:
> That makes sense with stands coming from outside the States. They are
> manufactured to metric standards, then adapted for the US (that pinned
> insert at the top). I found that out when I tried to mate an Atlas
> stand to an Ultimate base (the ones that stack). Obviously rethreading
> will only work on stands made in the US with the actual 5/8" tube.
>

Lost in this discussion: I don't recall anyone saying that they'd
measured the stand itself to know whether or not it's the right diameter
to be rethreaded.

Seems to me the proof is in the measurement rather than anything we
might come up with at a distance.

[Richard Kuschel]

>Willie K.Yee, M.D. <wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet> wrote:
>>On 22 Sep 2004 07:20:45 -0400, (Mike Rivers)
>>wrote:
>>
>>> The
>>>"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
>>>you won't be successful if you use a die.
>>>
>>
>>Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
>>the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
>>stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?
>
>No, because they are made with rolled threads, not cut ones. The threads
>extend out past the edge of the pipe, rather than being cut into the pipe.
>Rolled threads are much weaker than cut ones too, and once they are lost
>there's not much you can do. It's a lot faster and cheaper to make them,
>though.
>--scott
>
>
>--
>"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
>
>


I just checked my Atlas stands. The diameter of the threaded portion is less
than that of the tubing.

I have used dies on the Atlas foor years without complication.

Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

[Richard Kuschel]

>Willie K.Yee, M.D. <wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet> wrote:
>>On 22 Sep 2004 07:20:45 -0400, (Mike Rivers)
>>wrote:
>>
>>> The
>>>"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
>>>you won't be successful if you use a die.
>>>
>>
>>Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
>>the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
>>stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?
>
>No, because they are made with rolled threads, not cut ones. The threads
>extend out past the edge of the pipe, rather than being cut into the pipe.
>Rolled threads are much weaker than cut ones too, and once they are lost
>there's not much you can do. It's a lot faster and cheaper to make them,
>though.
>--scott
>
>
>--
>"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
>
>


I just checked my Atlas stands. The diameter of the threaded portion is less
than that of the tubing.

I have used dies on the Atlas foor years without complication.

Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

[Richard Kuschel]

>Willie K.Yee, M.D. <wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet> wrote:
>>On 22 Sep 2004 07:20:45 -0400, (Mike Rivers)
>>wrote:
>>
>>> The
>>>"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
>>>you won't be successful if you use a die.
>>>
>>
>>Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
>>the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
>>stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?
>
>No, because they are made with rolled threads, not cut ones. The threads
>extend out past the edge of the pipe, rather than being cut into the pipe.
>Rolled threads are much weaker than cut ones too, and once they are lost
>there's not much you can do. It's a lot faster and cheaper to make them,
>though.
>--scott
>
>
>--
>"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
>
>


I just checked my Atlas stands. The diameter of the threaded portion is less
than that of the tubing.

I have used dies on the Atlas foor years without complication.

Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

[George]

In article >,
(Richard Kuschel) wrote:

> >Willie K.Yee, M.D. <wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet> wrote:
> >>On 22 Sep 2004 07:20:45 -0400, (Mike Rivers)
> >>wrote:
> >>
> >>> The
> >>>"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
> >>>you won't be successful if you use a die.
> >>>
> >>
> >>Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
> >>the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
> >>stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?
> >
> >No, because they are made with rolled threads, not cut ones. The threads
> >extend out past the edge of the pipe, rather than being cut into the pipe.
> >Rolled threads are much weaker than cut ones too, and once they are lost
> >there's not much you can do. It's a lot faster and cheaper to make them,
> >though.
> >--scott
> >
> >
> >--
> >"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
> >
> >
>
>
> I just checked my Atlas stands. The diameter of the threaded portion is less
> than that of the tubing.
>
> I have used dies on the Atlas foor years without complication.
>
>
seems simplier(and most likely cheaper unless you do this "alot") to
just get replacment parts and be done with it
George

[George]

In article >,
(Richard Kuschel) wrote:

> >Willie K.Yee, M.D. <wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet> wrote:
> >>On 22 Sep 2004 07:20:45 -0400, (Mike Rivers)
> >>wrote:
> >>
> >>> The
> >>>"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
> >>>you won't be successful if you use a die.
> >>>
> >>
> >>Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
> >>the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
> >>stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?
> >
> >No, because they are made with rolled threads, not cut ones. The threads
> >extend out past the edge of the pipe, rather than being cut into the pipe.
> >Rolled threads are much weaker than cut ones too, and once they are lost
> >there's not much you can do. It's a lot faster and cheaper to make them,
> >though.
> >--scott
> >
> >
> >--
> >"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
> >
> >
>
>
> I just checked my Atlas stands. The diameter of the threaded portion is less
> than that of the tubing.
>
> I have used dies on the Atlas foor years without complication.
>
>
seems simplier(and most likely cheaper unless you do this "alot") to
just get replacment parts and be done with it
George

[George]

In article >,
(Richard Kuschel) wrote:

> >Willie K.Yee, M.D. <wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet> wrote:
> >>On 22 Sep 2004 07:20:45 -0400, (Mike Rivers)
> >>wrote:
> >>
> >>> The
> >>>"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
> >>>you won't be successful if you use a die.
> >>>
> >>
> >>Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
> >>the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
> >>stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?
> >
> >No, because they are made with rolled threads, not cut ones. The threads
> >extend out past the edge of the pipe, rather than being cut into the pipe.
> >Rolled threads are much weaker than cut ones too, and once they are lost
> >there's not much you can do. It's a lot faster and cheaper to make them,
> >though.
> >--scott
> >
> >
> >--
> >"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
> >
> >
>
>
> I just checked my Atlas stands. The diameter of the threaded portion is less
> than that of the tubing.
>
> I have used dies on the Atlas foor years without complication.
>
>
seems simplier(and most likely cheaper unless you do this "alot") to
just get replacment parts and be done with it
George

[Pooh Bear]

Greg Taylor wrote:

> That makes sense with stands coming from outside the States. They are
> manufactured to metric standards, then adapted for the US (that pinned
> insert at the top). I found that out when I tried to mate an Atlas
> stand to an Ultimate base (the ones that stack). Obviously rethreading
> will only work on stands made in the US with the actual 5/8" tube.

I think you'll find that the stands with pinned inserts are also made the
same way with 'European' - lol - 3/8" threads.


Graham

[Pooh Bear]

Greg Taylor wrote:

> That makes sense with stands coming from outside the States. They are
> manufactured to metric standards, then adapted for the US (that pinned
> insert at the top). I found that out when I tried to mate an Atlas
> stand to an Ultimate base (the ones that stack). Obviously rethreading
> will only work on stands made in the US with the actual 5/8" tube.

I think you'll find that the stands with pinned inserts are also made the
same way with 'European' - lol - 3/8" threads.


Graham

[Pooh Bear]

Greg Taylor wrote:

> That makes sense with stands coming from outside the States. They are
> manufactured to metric standards, then adapted for the US (that pinned
> insert at the top). I found that out when I tried to mate an Atlas
> stand to an Ultimate base (the ones that stack). Obviously rethreading
> will only work on stands made in the US with the actual 5/8" tube.

I think you'll find that the stands with pinned inserts are also made the
same way with 'European' - lol - 3/8" threads.


Graham

[Pooh Bear]

Scott Dorsey wrote:

> Willie K.Yee, M.D. <wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet> wrote:
> >On 22 Sep 2004 07:20:45 -0400, (Mike Rivers)
> >wrote:
> >
> >> The
> >>"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
> >>you won't be successful if you use a die.
> >>
> >
> >Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
> >the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
> >stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?
>
> No, because they are made with rolled threads, not cut ones. The threads
> extend out past the edge of the pipe, rather than being cut into the pipe.
> Rolled threads are much weaker than cut ones too, and once they are lost
> there's not much you can do. It's a lot faster and cheaper to make them,
> though.

This is the advantage of the 3/8" thread. It's so deep that it couldn't be
rolled anyway. I've never seen a tube cut with a 3/8" thread also since the
cut would be too deep for a tube. The deep thread also makes it more durable
overall.


Graham

[Pooh Bear]

Scott Dorsey wrote:

> Willie K.Yee, M.D. <wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet> wrote:
> >On 22 Sep 2004 07:20:45 -0400, (Mike Rivers)
> >wrote:
> >
> >> The
> >>"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
> >>you won't be successful if you use a die.
> >>
> >
> >Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
> >the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
> >stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?
>
> No, because they are made with rolled threads, not cut ones. The threads
> extend out past the edge of the pipe, rather than being cut into the pipe.
> Rolled threads are much weaker than cut ones too, and once they are lost
> there's not much you can do. It's a lot faster and cheaper to make them,
> though.

This is the advantage of the 3/8" thread. It's so deep that it couldn't be
rolled anyway. I've never seen a tube cut with a 3/8" thread also since the
cut would be too deep for a tube. The deep thread also makes it more durable
overall.


Graham

[Pooh Bear]

Scott Dorsey wrote:

> Willie K.Yee, M.D. <wkyeeATbestwebDOTnet> wrote:
> >On 22 Sep 2004 07:20:45 -0400, (Mike Rivers)
> >wrote:
> >
> >> The
> >>"discussion" that you seem to be fretting about is to tell you that
> >>you won't be successful if you use a die.
> >>
> >
> >Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
> >the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
> >stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?
>
> No, because they are made with rolled threads, not cut ones. The threads
> extend out past the edge of the pipe, rather than being cut into the pipe.
> Rolled threads are much weaker than cut ones too, and once they are lost
> there's not much you can do. It's a lot faster and cheaper to make them,
> though.

This is the advantage of the 3/8" thread. It's so deep that it couldn't be
rolled anyway. I've never seen a tube cut with a 3/8" thread also since the
cut would be too deep for a tube. The deep thread also makes it more durable
overall.


Graham

[Scott Dorsey]

George > wrote:
>>
> seems simplier(and most likely cheaper unless you do this "alot") to
>just get replacment parts and be done with it

Now that Black Audio devices is gone, getting replacement parts for the
Atlas stands is no longer so easy. In many cases, you have to buy more
than just the part that is broken, and often it is cheaper to buy a new stand.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Scott Dorsey]

George > wrote:
>>
> seems simplier(and most likely cheaper unless you do this "alot") to
>just get replacment parts and be done with it

Now that Black Audio devices is gone, getting replacement parts for the
Atlas stands is no longer so easy. In many cases, you have to buy more
than just the part that is broken, and often it is cheaper to buy a new stand.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Noel Bachelor]

On or about Fri, 24 Sep 2004 02:31:54 GMT, Willie K.Yee, M.D. allegedly
wrote:

> Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
> the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
> stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?

If the stand is chromed, the die would get knocked around.

It would be best to leave a couple of turns of the original thread to help
the die get started, otherwise you'll need to put in in a lathe to keep it
straight.


Noel Bachelor noelbachelorAT(From:_domain)
Language Recordings Inc (Darwin Australia)

[Noel Bachelor]

On or about Fri, 24 Sep 2004 02:31:54 GMT, Willie K.Yee, M.D. allegedly
wrote:

> Wouldn't a die work if you hack sawed off the end of the stand with
> the messed up threads, and cut the threads on the clean end of the
> stand, now 1/2 " or so shorter?

If the stand is chromed, the die would get knocked around.

It would be best to leave a couple of turns of the original thread to help
the die get started, otherwise you'll need to put in in a lathe to keep it
straight.


Noel Bachelor noelbachelorAT(From:_domain)
Language Recordings Inc (Darwin Australia)

[Richard Kuschel]

> seems simplier(and most likely cheaper unless you do this "alot") to
>just get replacment parts and be done with it
>George


Unless you need a 1 foot extension instead of three feet.

I've cobbled together a bunch of custom stuff from broken stands.

Also, Atlas seems to make a real game out of gettting replacements at
reasonable prices or availability.
Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

[Richard Kuschel]

> seems simplier(and most likely cheaper unless you do this "alot") to
>just get replacment parts and be done with it
>George


Unless you need a 1 foot extension instead of three feet.

I've cobbled together a bunch of custom stuff from broken stands.

Also, Atlas seems to make a real game out of gettting replacements at
reasonable prices or availability.
Richard H. Kuschel
"I canna change the law of physics."-----Scotty

[George]

In article >,
(Richard Kuschel) wrote:

> > seems simplier(and most likely cheaper unless you do this "alot") to
> >just get replacment parts and be done with it
> >George
>
>
> Unless you need a 1 foot extension instead of three feet.
>
> I've cobbled together a bunch of custom stuff from broken stands.
>
> Also, Atlas seems to make a real game out of gettting replacements at
> reasonable prices or availability.
>
This I agree with
Stands are WAY more expensive if your not buying master pack qntys
and even then most distributors will sell cheaper than Atlas direct
I nguess there is some huge qnty price discount that allows this
Gorge

[George]

In article >,
(Richard Kuschel) wrote:

> > seems simplier(and most likely cheaper unless you do this "alot") to
> >just get replacment parts and be done with it
> >George
>
>
> Unless you need a 1 foot extension instead of three feet.
>
> I've cobbled together a bunch of custom stuff from broken stands.
>
> Also, Atlas seems to make a real game out of gettting replacements at
> reasonable prices or availability.
>
This I agree with
Stands are WAY more expensive if your not buying master pack qntys
and even then most distributors will sell cheaper than Atlas direct
I nguess there is some huge qnty price discount that allows this
Gorge

[Laurence Payne]

On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 01:49:08 +0100, Pooh Bear
> wrote:

>Ahhh - the 5 Amp and 15 Amp circular pin plugs I assume ?
>
>Still used here in the UK ( last time I checked ) for theatre stage lighting.

Yup. The 13 Amp plugtop with cartridge fuse is an excellent system,
but not what you need to be messing with when up a ladder replacing a
lamp.

CubaseFAQ www.laurencepayne.co.uk/CubaseFAQ.htm
"Possibly the world's least impressive web site": George Perfect

[Laurence Payne]

On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 01:49:08 +0100, Pooh Bear
> wrote:

>Ahhh - the 5 Amp and 15 Amp circular pin plugs I assume ?
>
>Still used here in the UK ( last time I checked ) for theatre stage lighting.

Yup. The 13 Amp plugtop with cartridge fuse is an excellent system,
but not what you need to be messing with when up a ladder replacing a
lamp.

CubaseFAQ www.laurencepayne.co.uk/CubaseFAQ.htm
"Possibly the world's least impressive web site": George Perfect