Budget quality system

[Dan Berry]

Hi,
I'm putting together a new system for an F350 Crewcab Truck and am
interested in suggestions or better way to use my budget of about $1000.

Here's what I've selected:

(head) Panasonic CQ-DFX883U CD/MP3/WMA Receiver w/CD Changer Controls
$199.99
(amp) Kicker 02KX700.5 5 Channel Car Amplifier
$304.99
(front) Infinity KAPPA 63.5I 6 1/2" 3-Way Loudspeaker (PAIR)
$112.99
(rear) Infinity REF6802CF 6" x 8" / 5" x 7" 2-Way Speakers (Pair)
$64.99
(subs) Kicker 03CVR104 Comp VR 10" Dual 4-Ohm Voice Coil Component Subwoofer
$139.98
(sub box) 1.0 CF sealed enclosure per sub behind the seat
$60.00
(speaker wire, RCA cables, fuses, misc shipping charges etc.)
$100.00

Total: $982.94

I can save a few bucks from ebay as well.

3 amps were all within the same price range. Alpine, Kicker, and MTX. All
are 5 channel and apear to be very similar so I'm unsure which is the best
value.

MTX Thunder 4405 5 Channel Amplifier
Alpine MRV-F450 5 Channel V12 Amplifier
Kicker 02KX700.5 5 Channel Amplifier

I could also go with 2 amps and use a 4 channel for the main speakers and a
mono for the subs and still end up at about the same price.

I picked the Infinity speakers because they seemed like a good balance of
sound quality and price.

I listen to a variety of music and am looking for a well balanced clean
sounding system, not a competition sound machine. Any ideas how I can
improve this system by using different components or spending a few more
dollars on something?

Thanks in advance!
Dan

[Nick Holden]

You might consider skipping the rear speakers and going
with a 4channel amp or a 2 channel + a mono amp.

I've currently got a 4 channel amp for my fronts/rears and
a bridged 2 channel for the subs. I can't get a decent sound
stage using the rears and have everything faded to the front.
When I get some time I'm going to bridge the 4 channel to
2 and only power the fronts.

-Nick

"Dan Berry" > wrote in message
...
> Hi,
> I'm putting together a new system for an F350 Crewcab Truck and am
> interested in suggestions or better way to use my budget of about $1000.
>
> Here's what I've selected:
>
> (head) Panasonic CQ-DFX883U CD/MP3/WMA Receiver w/CD Changer Controls
> $199.99
> (amp) Kicker 02KX700.5 5 Channel Car Amplifier
> $304.99
> (front) Infinity KAPPA 63.5I 6 1/2" 3-Way Loudspeaker (PAIR)
> $112.99
> (rear) Infinity REF6802CF 6" x 8" / 5" x 7" 2-Way Speakers (Pair)
> $64.99
> (subs) Kicker 03CVR104 Comp VR 10" Dual 4-Ohm Voice Coil Component
Subwoofer
> $139.98
> (sub box) 1.0 CF sealed enclosure per sub behind the seat
> $60.00
> (speaker wire, RCA cables, fuses, misc shipping charges etc.)
> $100.00
>
> Total: $982.94
>
> I can save a few bucks from ebay as well.
>
> 3 amps were all within the same price range. Alpine, Kicker, and MTX.
All
> are 5 channel and apear to be very similar so I'm unsure which is the best
> value.
>
> MTX Thunder 4405 5 Channel Amplifier
> Alpine MRV-F450 5 Channel V12 Amplifier
> Kicker 02KX700.5 5 Channel Amplifier
>
> I could also go with 2 amps and use a 4 channel for the main speakers and
a
> mono for the subs and still end up at about the same price.
>
> I picked the Infinity speakers because they seemed like a good balance of
> sound quality and price.
>
> I listen to a variety of music and am looking for a well balanced clean
> sounding system, not a competition sound machine. Any ideas how I can
> improve this system by using different components or spending a few more
> dollars on something?
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Dan
>
>

[Mark Zarella]

> Hi,
> I'm putting together a new system for an F350 Crewcab Truck and am
> interested in suggestions or better way to use my budget of about $1000.
>
> Here's what I've selected:
>
> (head) Panasonic CQ-DFX883U CD/MP3/WMA Receiver w/CD Changer Controls
> $199.99
> (amp) Kicker 02KX700.5 5 Channel Car Amplifier
> $304.99
> (front) Infinity KAPPA 63.5I 6 1/2" 3-Way Loudspeaker (PAIR)
> $112.99
> (rear) Infinity REF6802CF 6" x 8" / 5" x 7" 2-Way Speakers (Pair)
> $64.99
> (subs) Kicker 03CVR104 Comp VR 10" Dual 4-Ohm Voice Coil Component
Subwoofer
> $139.98
> (sub box) 1.0 CF sealed enclosure per sub behind the seat
> $60.00
> (speaker wire, RCA cables, fuses, misc shipping charges etc.)
> $100.00
>
> Total: $982.94
>
> I can save a few bucks from ebay as well.

If these prices are in american dollars, then you're not getting any deals
here. The equipment choice is fine, but $982.94 should buy you a better
setup. Your last sentence is probably the best thing you've said.

> 3 amps were all within the same price range. Alpine, Kicker, and MTX.
All
> are 5 channel and apear to be very similar so I'm unsure which is the best
> value.
>
> MTX Thunder 4405 5 Channel Amplifier
> Alpine MRV-F450 5 Channel V12 Amplifier
> Kicker 02KX700.5 5 Channel Amplifier

Performance should be about the same. Make sure the crossovers on the one
you select do everything you're after.

> I could also go with 2 amps and use a 4 channel for the main speakers and
a
> mono for the subs and still end up at about the same price.

Go ahead if the power distribution is more to your liking.

> I picked the Infinity speakers because they seemed like a good balance of
> sound quality and price.

I assume you've listened to them and compared them to other speakers,
including other Infinity speakers?

[Mark Zarella]

> > You might consider skipping the rear speakers and going
> > with a 4channel amp or a 2 channel + a mono amp.
> >
> > I've currently got a 4 channel amp for my fronts/rears and
> > a bridged 2 channel for the subs. I can't get a decent sound
> > stage using the rears and have everything faded to the front.
> > When I get some time I'm going to bridge the 4 channel to
> > 2 and only power the fronts.
> >
> > -Nick
>
> I understand what you are saying, but for my purposes, I need the rear
> speakers at least sometimes. I plan to use an audigy with my laptop to
> watch the occasional DVD and I'd like surround sound. I'm not sure yet
how
> best to feed the amp from 2 sources (laptop and head unit) without causing
> problems, but it may be as simple as a Y-connector.

A Y won't work. You need either an audio switch from Radio Shack or get a
head unit with an auxiliary input. The latter option is better because when
using the laptop you can maintain volume and fader control with the head
unit knob.

[Dan Berry]

"Sanitarium" > wrote in message
...
> Here is my budget system.
> I'm about half way through with the install. I bought a bunch of this
> on e-bay, new and used. Maybe you can get some ideas.
>
> http://members.sounddomain.com/kramer5150
>
> IMHO $140 for a 10" kicker is a little steep. Not that its a bad
> subwoofer, but you can find better for the $$$ You can get two of them
> for around $110 on e-bay. Lots of good www deals out there on E-bay for
> NEW and used equipment. You might want to demo the Alpine Type-R or
> infinity Kappa / Kappa perfect. These are a little costly, but on E-bay
> you might be able to find one in your budget.

The 140 bucks was for 2 kicker speakers new. :)

> There are a lot of "smaller guys" out there out there with stellar
> subwoofers in the $140 range. Digital Designs, Adire audio, Resonant
> Engineering, Elemental Designs to name a few. IMHO you might want to
> look into them as well, although some are available for mail order only
> from their official site. Whichever you choose, use caution and make
> sure you install it in the proper enclosure.
>
> You can get 4 gage amp imstall kits for under $30 @ Walmart and E-bay.
> Your ears will not be able to hear a difference between Monster cable 4
> gage and generic 4 gage copper cable.
>
> Ebay trick... bid on local items to avoid shipping charges, and inspect
> items before taking them home.

Definately a good tip for any ebay purchase!

> Deffinitely post this on the www.tempro.com forum lots of good advice
> there.
>
> Peace,
> Garrett
>

I checked out your system. It's obvious you've spent a lot more time
thinking and planning your system than I have. I'll check out walmart for
the amp kits. Is there any reason not to use regular old 15 foot RCA to RCA
cables from the walmart as well? I was planning on using standard 12 guage
stranded electrical wire for the speaker cables crimped and soldered. How
do you know how much filling/batting to put in the speaker boxes? Is it a
trial and error thing?

Thanks,
Dan

[Dan Berry]

"Mark Zarella" <seesigfile> wrote

> If these prices are in american dollars, then you're not getting any deals
> here. The equipment choice is fine, but $982.94 should buy you a better
> setup. Your last sentence is probably the best thing you've said.
>
> > 3 amps were all within the same price range. Alpine, Kicker, and MTX.
> All
> > are 5 channel and apear to be very similar so I'm unsure which is the
best
> > value.
> >
> > MTX Thunder 4405 5 Channel Amplifier
> > Alpine MRV-F450 5 Channel V12 Amplifier
> > Kicker 02KX700.5 5 Channel Amplifier
>
> Performance should be about the same. Make sure the crossovers on the one
> you select do everything you're after.
>
> > I could also go with 2 amps and use a 4 channel for the main speakers
and
> a
> > mono for the subs and still end up at about the same price.
>
> Go ahead if the power distribution is more to your liking.
>
> > I picked the Infinity speakers because they seemed like a good balance
of
> > sound quality and price.
>
> I assume you've listened to them and compared them to other speakers,
> including other Infinity speakers?
>
I listened to a lot of speakers, but I get the feeling that what I hear in
the store is not going to be what I hear in the vehicle. Plus, at the
store, there are 15 other stereos playing at the same time, so I'm left with
making something like a guess. I've been pleased with infinity before and
the price is right. In the unlikely event they end up sounding terrible,
they aren't too hard to replace. :)

Thanks,
Dan

[Mark Zarella]

> I would need a 5 channel switch for proper localization in surround sound.

Not if the surround processor is "after" (or in) the head unit, which is
generally the case. If you want to use an existing processor in the source
(ie laptop), you're in tough shape. Really, the only way to do it then
would be to run the head unit output through the laptop, which means you'd
have to have the laptop always on whenever you'd want music. And you
wouldn't have HU volume control. The only other option is to use several
switches...pain in the ass.

If you use a separate surround processor you can pull this off. That's what
most people do. And that's what I recommend. I know you want to use your
current equipment, but it's just not feasible.

> Why won't the Y work? Loose end susceptible to noise?

No, Y's are fine for splitting signals from a single source. But what
you're talking about is combining signals - in which case the two sources
will be "fighting" with each other. Not only will it not function correctly
and provide substantial signal loss, but it's also very possible you'd
damage the equipment by doing so.

[Dan Berry]

"Mark Zarella" <seesigfile> wrote in message
...
> > I would need a 5 channel switch for proper localization in surround
sound.
>
> Not if the surround processor is "after" (or in) the head unit, which is
> generally the case. If you want to use an existing processor in the
source
> (ie laptop), you're in tough shape. Really, the only way to do it then
> would be to run the head unit output through the laptop, which means you'd
> have to have the laptop always on whenever you'd want music. And you
> wouldn't have HU volume control. The only other option is to use several
> switches...pain in the ass.

I just did a google search. I had no idea there was such a thing as a
separate surround sound processor for car audio. I picked the head unit
specifically for the AUX input for laptop, but hadn't solved the surround
sound problem. Sounds like the perfect solution. If you are familiar with
these, is the Rockford Fosgate RFQ5000 ($239) a decent unit?

Thanks!
Dan

[Daniel Snooks]

Brandon Buckner wrote
> Nope, the walmart RCAs and speaker cable is perfectly useable. The only
> reason to use "higher end" stuff is for the looks. The filling/batting
> thing doesn't really make much difference how much you put in. Just put
> in a decent amount and try to keep the vents on the subs clear and you
> should be good.

It is generally agreed that 1 - 1.5 lb of poly fill for each cu.ft. gives
the optimal results.

> Brandonb


--
Regards,
Dan Snooks

[Dan Berry]

"Sanitarium" > wrote in message
...
> I used to compete in IASCA events in the early 90s.
>
> I have used cheap RCAs before and was not impressed. I was picking up
> alternator whine through mine. I would run the rca cable within a foot
> of my amps and the whine was there. Move the cable farther away and the
> noise would diminish.
>
> Switched to mid grade phoenix gold RCA cables (about $35 for a 3 meter
> length) and the whine vanished completely, regardless of where I ran the
> RCAs. I'm probably one of the few on this board who wouldnt recommend
> the real cheap RCA cables. However, Its very possible that with your
> car and system layout it wont matter. For me, it made a difference, but
> that was over a decade ago. Back then if i entered an event with that
> much alternator whine, it probably would have cost me a good 25 points
> on my scores. Currently I use Monster 201XLN. I havent experimented
> with the cheaper cables of today though...
>
> I use Phansteil 14 gage speaker cable, I think its called
> Crankin-power. My local Frys electronics sells the stuff for cheap.
> Home depot also sells copper speaker cables for a good $$$. Dont forget
> to use heat shrink or good UL listed electrical tape to insulate your
> solder joints.
>
> Standard rule is 1 pound of polyester fiberfill per cubic foot. Im using
> a little less than that rate, 1 pound per 1.5 cubic feet.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Garrett

Thanks for the advice!
Dan