Home studio door

[Mateusz Józefowicz]

Greetings,

What range of acoustic insluation (in db) should a door between a studio and
control room have? I need it for my basement home-studio, and wonder whether
you have any suggestions for a cost-effective solution?

Thanx

Mateusz

[Mike Rivers]

In article > writes:

> What range of acoustic insluation (in db) should a door between a studio and
> control room have?

60 dB would be a reasonable figure to shoot for.

> I need it for my basement home-studio, and wonder whether
> you have any suggestions for a cost-effective solution?

Are you trying to evaluate or beef up an existing door, or are you
planning to build a new wall with a door in it? (and a window too?) A
door with 60 dB of isolation is of no use if you only have 30 dB of
isolation with the hole for the door sealed up.




--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

[GoobAudio]

As much as the wall/ceiling/floor interface supplies. If more it will be
overwhelmed by the leakage of the other interfaces and hence your investment
wasted, if less it will be the weak chain in the link.

Phil

"Mateusz Józefowicz" > wrote in message
...
> Greetings,
>
> What range of acoustic insluation (in db) should a door between a studio
and
> control room have? I need it for my basement home-studio, and wonder
whether
> you have any suggestions for a cost-effective solution?
>
> Thanx
>
> Mateusz
>
>

[Leoaw3]

I agree, of course, that you should match the door's capabilities with the rest
of the studio. In a typical home studio, the isolation may be pretty darn
limited.

That being said, there are a couple of basic principles here. You're going to
want a heavy door - the heavier the better. Use a heavy solid core door. Some
folks even put a sheet of lead on the door and a layer of 3/4" plywood or MDF
over that!

Then you want to seal the door. Think watertight - as if you were building a
boat. If air can get through, sound can get through. I'm investigating door
seals myself right now. One company's product that looks interesting is at
http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/products/doors/seal_kits.asp
They have door seal kits for reasonable amounts of $.

Good luck!
-lee-

[Mike Cleaver]

The way we do it for radio studios is to double door.
Two separate doors in separate frames.
Float the frams on neoprene rubber on all five sides, top, bottom
sides, and between the frames.
Use solid core doors with a refrigerator type seal on surface to jamb
and a drop down threshold with rubber to seal at the bottom.
One door opens out, the other in.
And don't put any hardware such as knobs, unless you need a lock on
the outer door.
Every hole you make allows sound to escape or invade the space.
Use door closers and push panels instead.
Hope this helps.

On 08 Mar 2004 21:26:17 GMT, (Leoaw3) wrote:

>I agree, of course, that you should match the door's capabilities with the rest
>of the studio. In a typical home studio, the isolation may be pretty darn
>limited.
>
>That being said, there are a couple of basic principles here. You're going to
>want a heavy door - the heavier the better. Use a heavy solid core door. Some
>folks even put a sheet of lead on the door and a layer of 3/4" plywood or MDF
>over that!
>
>Then you want to seal the door. Think watertight - as if you were building a
>boat. If air can get through, sound can get through. I'm investigating door
>seals myself right now. One company's product that looks interesting is at
>http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/products/doors/seal_kits.asp
>They have door seal kits for reasonable amounts of $.
>
>Good luck!
>-lee-

Mike Cleaver Broadcast Services
Voice-overs, Newscaster, Engineering and Consulting
Vancouver, BC, Canada

[Rob Adelman]

Religion is not what keeps people *relatively* in line. Laws do, or at
least they try to.

[Geoff Duncan]

"Mike Cleaver" > wrote in message
...
> The way we do it for radio studios is to double door.
> Two separate doors in separate frames.
> Float the frams on neoprene rubber on all five sides, top, bottom
> sides, and between the frames.
> Use solid core doors with a refrigerator type seal on surface to jamb
> and a drop down threshold with rubber to seal at the bottom.
> One door opens out, the other in.
> And don't put any hardware such as knobs, unless you need a lock on
> the outer door.
> Every hole you make allows sound to escape or invade the space.
> Use door closers and push panels instead.
> Hope this helps.
>


Just out of curiosity, how would one install 2 doors, back to back, so they
obviously open outwards, with push panels and door closers?

Wouldn't they open into each other if you push them?

I put handles on mine for exactly that reason - you have to pull them open.

Have I missed something here?

cheers

Geoff

PS : like this :

|| ||
|| ||
\\ //
\\ //
Door 1 \\ // Door 2
|| ||
|| ||

[james]

In article >,
Geoff Duncan > wrote:

>Just out of curiosity, how would one install 2 doors, back to back, so they
>obviously open outwards, with push panels and door closers?

You could only ask this question if you've never seen a public restroom :-)

(One side of each door has a U-shaped handle...)

[Geoff Duncan]

"james" > wrote in message
news:HF83c.978$uh.513@fed1read02...
> In article >,
> Geoff Duncan > wrote:
>
> >Just out of curiosity, how would one install 2 doors, back to back, so
they
> >obviously open outwards, with push panels and door closers?
>
> You could only ask this question if you've never seen a public restroom
:-)
>
> (One side of each door has a U-shaped handle...)
>
>

Yes but don't you pull those doors?

The description given by Mike Cleaver was of doors which open back to back
with *push* plates, and I couldn't see how that could work.

Sorry if I missed something....

Geoff

[xy]

this area of the studio is typcially called the "sound lock". it's
usually two doors with a space in between. usually the doors open
opposite of each other, so the hinges arent' on the same side. makes
it more confusing for the sound to try to get through, which is a good
thing. the doors are typically thick and heavy. maybe multi-layered,
solid. also having a tight seal is real important. you want it to be
like a folgers coffee can sealing in all the goodness. that's if
you're trying for pro-grade.

there is this one door brand that comes up repeatedly for serious
pros. it's a heavy metal door. i forget the brand, but it keeps
coming up as "the one". kind of like how guillford of maine keeps
coming up as fabric to cover acoustic treatment in the room. i'm sure
somebody here knows these doors. i'm guessing they probably cost
$1200-2200 each. it's definitely "big boy" stuff at that point.

[EganMedia]

<< The description given by Mike Cleaver was of doors which open back to back
with *push* plates, and I couldn't see how that could work. >><BR><BR>

You PULL the first door open and PUSH the second one. Same thing going the
other way. The doors are held closed by pneumatic door closers.


Joe Egan
EMP
Colchester, VT
www.eganmedia.com

[James Perrett]

Geoff Duncan wrote:

> > You could only ask this question if you've never seen a public restroom
> :-)
> >
> > (One side of each door has a U-shaped handle...)
> >
> >
>
> Yes but don't you pull those doors?
>
> The description given by Mike Cleaver was of doors which open back to back
> with *push* plates, and I couldn't see how that could work.
>
> Sorry if I missed something....
>
> Geoff

I think that Mike was trying to make the point that you shouldn't use
door latches with handles to turn the latches. That kind of handle would
involve making a hole in the door. A pull handle will do no harm to the
insulation.

One thing to think about if you are building a commercial facility is
the fire escape route. You shouldn't have any doors that you have to
pull on that route.

Cheers.

James.

[Mateusz Józefowicz]

Thank you guys. The ideas leave me something to work with.

mj


U¿ytkownik "Mateusz Józefowicz" > napisa³ w wiadomo¶ci
...
> Greetings,
>
> What range of acoustic insluation (in db) should a door between a studio
and
> control room have? I need it for my basement home-studio, and wonder
whether
> you have any suggestions for a cost-effective solution?
>
> Thanx
>
> Mateusz
>
>

[Eric K. Weber]

Have a look at the following link.....

http://www.wengercorp.com/wenger/wengerhome.nsf/MainFrameset!OpenFrameset

Select catalogs and literature..... then select acoustical doors...

Rgds:
Eric
www.webermusic.com

[Geoff Duncan]

"EganMedia" > wrote in message
...
> << The description given by Mike Cleaver was of doors which open back to
back
> with *push* plates, and I couldn't see how that could work. >><BR><BR>
>
> You PULL the first door open and PUSH the second one. Same thing going
the
> other way. The doors are held closed by pneumatic door closers.
>
>
> Joe Egan
> EMP
> Colchester, VT
> www.eganmedia.com

I *knew it had to be simple. That makes sense!!

cheers Joe



Geoff

[Mike Cleaver]

Yeah, that's what I meant.
Blame it on a long day and a late night.

On 09 Mar 2004 13:23:02 GMT, (EganMedia) wrote:

><< The description given by Mike Cleaver was of doors which open back to back
>with *push* plates, and I couldn't see how that could work. >><BR><BR>
>
>You PULL the first door open and PUSH the second one. Same thing going the
>other way. The doors are held closed by pneumatic door closers.
>
>
>Joe Egan
>EMP
>Colchester, VT
>www.eganmedia.com

Mike Cleaver Broadcast Services
Voice-overs, Newscaster, Engineering and Consulting
Vancouver, BC, Canada