Putting fuses on Yamaha NS-10's

[Crayon Jones]

Hi. I'm about to replace the tweeter in one of my Yamaha NS-10 Studio
monitors and would like to put fuses on both of them to prevent future
blowouts.

I've searched on Google and found a 1998 post to this group with what I
feel is solid info on how to do this, but I'm wondering if there are other
effective ways of doing this. The post says to "....go in after the
crossover and install a 3/4amp fuse on the tweeter, and a 1 1/2 amp fuse on
the woofer..." and that you should "...mount the fuse holder with a dry
wall screw, then drill the holes for the speaker wires...Once you have
soldered the wire, you have for all intents and purposes (we are talking
NS-10's here) resealed the holes you drilled in the cabinets..."

Sensible enough, and I can see how placing a fuse on both the tweeter and
woofer could give more protection. But the few times I've seen fuses on
NS-10's in studios there seemed to be just one fuse per monitor enclosure,
placed inline with the wire from the power amp, where it connected to one
of the speaker terminals -- I'm not sure whether it was the plus or the
minus. This would certainly be easier. And it seemed to work -- I recall at
least once seeing those fuses blow.

Any thoughts from the folks here at r.a.p about how I might proceed on this
will be appreciated. (And yeah, I *know* someone out there will suggest
that instead of fuses I should attach dynamite to my NS-10's and get rid of
them once and for all. But they're serving my purposes so, thanks, but I'll
go with the fuses for now. :-)

Thanks!

Ceej

[Geoff Wood]

"Crayon Jones" > wrote in message
...
> Hi. I'm about to replace the tweeter in one of my Yamaha NS-10 Studio
> monitors and would like to put fuses on both of them to prevent future
> blowouts.

Why bother ? Just get some useful speakers in the first place .

'Studio Monitor' is a misnomer - they are used to hear what music sounds
like on crap stereos. There ae plenty of more-durable crap stereos around
for less than the price of an NS10 tweeter.

geoff

[Scott Dorsey]

Crayon Jones > wrote:
>
>Sensible enough, and I can see how placing a fuse on both the tweeter and
>woofer could give more protection. But the few times I've seen fuses on
>NS-10's in studios there seemed to be just one fuse per monitor enclosure,
>placed inline with the wire from the power amp, where it connected to one
>of the speaker terminals -- I'm not sure whether it was the plus or the
>minus. This would certainly be easier. And it seemed to work -- I recall at
>least once seeing those fuses blow.

It was probably just in series with the tweeter, since that is the driver that
tends to blow a lot.

>Any thoughts from the folks here at r.a.p about how I might proceed on this
>will be appreciated. (And yeah, I *know* someone out there will suggest
>that instead of fuses I should attach dynamite to my NS-10's and get rid of
>them once and for all. But they're serving my purposes so, thanks, but I'll
>go with the fuses for now. :-)

Dynamite would be good. I'd support that. But I figure if you are going to
spend the time to take the thing apart and drill a hole and fuse one driver,
you might as well just do both of them since most of the hard part has already
been done.
--scott


--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[umbriaco]

in article , Crayon Jones at
wrote on 11/22/03 1:41 AM:

> Hi. I'm about to replace the tweeter in one of my Yamaha NS-10 Studio
> monitors and would like to put fuses on both of them to prevent future
> blowouts.
>
> I've searched on Google and found a 1998 post to this group with what I
> feel is solid info on how to do this, but I'm wondering if there are other
> effective ways of doing this. The post says to "....go in after the
> crossover and install a 3/4amp fuse on the tweeter, and a 1 1/2 amp fuse on
> the woofer..." and that you should "...mount the fuse holder with a dry
> wall screw, then drill the holes for the speaker wires...Once you have
> soldered the wire, you have for all intents and purposes (we are talking
> NS-10's here) resealed the holes you drilled in the cabinets..."
>
> Sensible enough, and I can see how placing a fuse on both the tweeter and
> woofer could give more protection. But the few times I've seen fuses on
> NS-10's in studios there seemed to be just one fuse per monitor enclosure,
> placed inline with the wire from the power amp, where it connected to one
> of the speaker terminals -- I'm not sure whether it was the plus or the
> minus. This would certainly be easier. And it seemed to work -- I recall at
> least once seeing those fuses blow.
>
> Any thoughts from the folks here at r.a.p about how I might proceed on this
> will be appreciated. (And yeah, I *know* someone out there will suggest
> that instead of fuses I should attach dynamite to my NS-10's and get rid of
> them once and for all. But they're serving my purposes so, thanks, but I'll
> go with the fuses for now. :-)
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ceej
>
We use a 1 1/2 amp fuse in line.
It doesn't matter if it's on positive or negative, you're dealing with AC.
Even with the fuse, we go through lots of woofers, rarely tweeters.
We've tried going to 1 amp fuses but they just pop too often.
Over the last two years, almost 50% of the woofers coming back damaged from
urban music sessions have the cone seperated from the cloth surround. If the
cone hasn't been deformed (bent, creased) It can be re-glued to the
surround.

[Crayon Jones]

Thanks all for the replies. They were helpful.

As per umbriaco (and my recollection of what I've seen in the past) I
spliced the fuse inline, using 1-amps, which were what I happened to have.
But in this case I figure too small is better than too big.

Interestingly, as famous as NS10s are for blowing, and I've seen it happen
a few times, I've had this set for years without a single mishap, and that
was a just a stupid mistake on my part while testing equipment, and not at
all through normal or even high volume playback conditions -- and hopefully
not to be repeated soon.

Thanks again.



On Fri, 21 Nov 2003 22:41:11 -0800, Crayon Jones wrote:

> Hi. I'm about to replace the tweeter in one of my Yamaha NS-10 Studio
> monitors and would like to put fuses on both of them to prevent future
> blowouts.
>
> I've searched on Google and found a 1998 post to this group with what I
> feel is solid info on how to do this, but I'm wondering if there are other
> effective ways of doing this. The post says to "....go in after the
> crossover and install a 3/4amp fuse on the tweeter, and a 1 1/2 amp fuse on
> the woofer..." and that you should "...mount the fuse holder with a dry
> wall screw, then drill the holes for the speaker wires...Once you have
> soldered the wire, you have for all intents and purposes (we are talking
> NS-10's here) resealed the holes you drilled in the cabinets..."
>
> Sensible enough, and I can see how placing a fuse on both the tweeter and
> woofer could give more protection. But the few times I've seen fuses on
> NS-10's in studios there seemed to be just one fuse per monitor enclosure,
> placed inline with the wire from the power amp, where it connected to one
> of the speaker terminals -- I'm not sure whether it was the plus or the
> minus. This would certainly be easier. And it seemed to work -- I recall at
> least once seeing those fuses blow.
>
> Any thoughts from the folks here at r.a.p about how I might proceed on this
> will be appreciated. (And yeah, I *know* someone out there will suggest
> that instead of fuses I should attach dynamite to my NS-10's and get rid of
> them once and for all. But they're serving my purposes so, thanks, but I'll
> go with the fuses for now. :-)
>
> Thanks!
>
> Ceej

[mr c deckard]

since the things begin to roll off aroudn 60hz, they're all but
useless for that ultra low stuff in urban (i have to switch to the
809's for the bass, but i couldn't mix myself out of a bag with those
things . . . ), by the time they're turned up enough to hear anything,
the cone's pokin' out 3 inches. . . .

btw, that was fletcher's post, which is the mod i did (3/4A on hi's
1.5A on lows).

cheers,
cd /..


> > Ceej
> >
> We use a 1 1/2 amp fuse in line.
> It doesn't matter if it's on positive or negative, you're dealing with AC.
> Even with the fuse, we go through lots of woofers, rarely tweeters.
> We've tried going to 1 amp fuses but they just pop too often.
> Over the last two years, almost 50% of the woofers coming back damaged from
> urban music sessions have the cone seperated from the cloth surround. If the
> cone hasn't been deformed (bent, creased) It can be re-glued to the
> surround.

[Scott Dorsey]

mr c deckard > wrote:
>since the things begin to roll off aroudn 60hz, they're all but
>useless for that ultra low stuff in urban (i have to switch to the
>809's for the bass, but i couldn't mix myself out of a bag with those
>things . . . ), by the time they're turned up enough to hear anything,
>the cone's pokin' out 3 inches. . . .

There are folks (and Fletcher is the one that first told me about this,
but I have since seen lots of folks do it) who watch the cones on the NS-10s
and see how they move. You can see the various breakup modes and judge
if you have too much low end and how low it is by the way the driver looks.

I can't imagine mixing this way, but there are folks who swear by it.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Scott Dorsey]

In article >,
Mark Plancke > wrote:
>On 24 Nov 2003 11:30:47 -0500, (Scott Dorsey) wrote:
>
>>There are folks (and Fletcher is the one that first told me about this,
>>but I have since seen lots of folks do it) who watch the cones on the NS-10s
>>and see how they move. You can see the various breakup modes and judge
>>if you have too much low end and how low it is by the way the driver looks.
>>
>>I can't imagine mixing this way, but there are folks who swear by it.
>
>Get the Yamaha sub that goes with NS10's and you won't have to do
>this.

Yeah, but that totally defeats the whole purpose of using NS-10s, doesn't it?
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

[Mike Rivers]

In article > writes:

> You can see the various breakup modes and judge
> if you have too much low end and how low it is by the way the driver looks.
>
> I can't imagine mixing this way, but there are folks who swear by it.

This seems like the mechanical equivalent of mixing by watching a
spectrum analyzer. Some people do that, too.



--
I'm really Mike Rivers - )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me here: double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

[mr c deckard]

how weird, now *that's* knowing your monitors. . .

i've thought about the idea of mixing off of a 'scope, but that's more
of a thought experiment than anything else. . .

-chris


> There are folks (and Fletcher is the one that first told me about this,
> but I have since seen lots of folks do it) who watch the cones on the NS-10s
> and see how they move. You can see the various breakup modes and judge
> if you have too much low end and how low it is by the way the driver looks.
>
> I can't imagine mixing this way, but there are folks who swear by it.
> --scott

[Kurt Riemann]

>There are folks (and Fletcher is the one that first told me about this,
>but I have since seen lots of folks do it) who watch the cones on the NS-10s
>and see how they move. You can see the various breakup modes and judge
>if you have too much low end and how low it is by the way the driver looks.
>

That technique doesn't do too hot with ns-10s. There's not enough lows
to see. YMMV.

I have a rubber lobster in the bass port of my left nearfield. When he
crawls out, it's time turn down the bass. It his antennae wiggle,
things are just right.

Really.



Kurt Riemann

[Arny Krueger]

<Kurt Riemann> wrote in message

>> There are folks (and Fletcher is the one that first told me about
>> this, but I have since seen lots of folks do it) who watch the cones
>> on the NS-10s and see how they move. You can see the various
>> breakup modes and judge if you have too much low end and how low it
>> is by the way the driver looks.
>>
>
> That technique doesn't do too hot with ns-10s. There's not enough lows
> to see. YMMV.
>
> I have a rubber lobster in the bass port of my left nearfield. When he
> crawls out, it's time turn down the bass. It his antennae wiggle,
> things are just right.
>
> Really.

In order for the rubber lobster to *crawl* in or out, the bass in those
NS10s need not only be strong, but distorted. You probably knew that, but I
just thought I'd point this out for other readers who don't have the
personal experience.

[mr c deckard]

he must be using something other than ns10's, unless there's a ported
version i don't know about.

-chris d.

>
> In order for the rubber lobster to *crawl* in or out, the bass in those
> NS10s need not only be strong, but distorted. You probably knew that, but I
> just thought I'd point this out for other readers who don't have the
> personal experience.

[Fletcher]

<Kurt Riemann> wrote in message
...
>
>
> That technique doesn't do too hot with ns-10s. There's not enough lows
> to see. YMMV.
>

It's actually the NS-10's not having the ability to translate low frequency
information that you're looking for. When you have a bit too much bottom
for Jimmy's bitchin' Camaro's woofers to handle, the NS-10's will tell you
every time by watching the speaker surrounds crinkle. If the bottom is
right, the surrounds will look fine, if the bottom doesn't look right, then
you need to work on it.

I didn't make this one up... it's an old Bob Clearmountain thing... that
I've found to work pretty well... unless of course the woofers in the
NS-10's are fatigued from being turned up too loud and watching to see if
the surrounds crinkle...
--
Fletcher
Mercenary Audio
TEL: 508-543-0069
FAX: 508-543-9670
http://www.mercenary.com
"this is not a problem"

[Scott Dorsey]

Mark Plancke > wrote:
>On 24 Nov 2003 14:55:39 -0500, (Scott Dorsey) wrote:
>
>>>Get the Yamaha sub that goes with NS10's and you won't have to do
>>>this.
>>
>>Yeah, but that totally defeats the whole purpose of using NS-10s, doesn't it?
>
>No, it actually turns them into a good full range reference instead of
>relying on the old push the cone out three inches at 95db trick. :)

No, it doesn't. It now has bottom end, but the crossover point is really
high so the low end imaging is funny. And the top end is still honky and
harsh and NS-10 sounding.

But it doesn't sound like an NS-10 any longer, so the whole point of the NS-10,
which is that it's a universal reference you can find anywhere, is lost.

>You can easily turn off the sub to check whats going on if need be.

If you're going to spend all the money and time to get an NS-10/sub system
set up properly, why not use it to get good speakers instead?
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."