Tru-Oil for natural wood Jazz Bass.....

[Paul[_13_]]

I've read good things about Tru-oil for bare naked
guitar wood:


http://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Tru-Stock-Finish/dp/B002JD3J2M/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


Originally for gun stocks, the guitar building community has
embraced it for natural wood finishes.

I'm stripping and sanding the paint off my $20 Jazz bass
fixer-upper....quite excited about this!

[Nate Najar]

I have a few guitars done that way and it is terrific.

[William Sommerwerck]

And... it's a dessert topping.

[JD[_3_]]

On 3/31/2014 9:57 PM, Paul wrote:
> I've read good things about Tru-oil for bare naked
> guitar wood:
>
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Tru-Stock-Finish/dp/B002JD3J2M/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
>
>
>
> Originally for gun stocks, the guitar building
> community has
> embraced it for natural wood finishes.
>
> I'm stripping and sanding the paint off my $20
> Jazz bass
> fixer-upper....quite excited about this!

I did my Tele with Tru-oil. It came out pretty
damn good. The only thing I might have done
differently would be to apply a light stain to
bring up the grain a little more.

[Inyo]

"Paul" > wrote in message
...

> I've read good things about Tru-oil for bare naked
> guitar wood:

Kinky.

http://inyo.coffeecup.com/site/acoustic/allinyoallthetime.html
"All Inyo All The Time"--All of my acoustic 6 and 12-string guitar playing
available on the Net.

[Tony Done]

On 4/1/2014 2:57 PM, Paul wrote:
> I've read good things about Tru-oil for bare naked
> guitar wood:
>
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Tru-Stock-Finish/dp/B002JD3J2M/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
>
>
>
> Originally for gun stocks, the guitar building community has
> embraced it for natural wood finishes.
>
> I'm stripping and sanding the paint off my $20 Jazz bass
> fixer-upper....quite excited about this!

My music-store-owning mate has used it a few times. It works well if you
are careful, but offers no protection against dings.

I've redone gunstocks and preferred linseed with a heavy dose of
Terebine accelerant to Tru-Oil - it ended looking more like oil and less
like varnish. I've use Feast Watson Chinawood Oil (tung plus poly) on
guitars, but I think there are better options.
--
Tony Done

http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=784456

http://www.flickr.com/photos/done_family/

[Paul[_13_]]

On 4/1/2014 6:31 PM, Tony Done wrote:
> My music-store-owning mate has used it a few times. It works well if you
> are careful, but offers no protection against dings.
>
> I've redone gunstocks and preferred linseed with a heavy dose of
> Terebine accelerant to Tru-Oil - it ended looking more like oil and less
> like varnish. I've use Feast Watson Chinawood Oil (tung plus poly) on
> guitars, but I think there are better options.
> --

Well, the main ingredient of Tru-oil appears to be linseed oil, which
I do have as a canvas painter, and which I have read some people use
in the raw, by itself, on bare wood. Perhaps a stain first, before the
raw linseed oil?

BTW, stripping the paint from a bass or guitar body is not exactly
easy work! And the wood figuring is not the greatest on this body
(the factories will cherry pick the best looking bodies for natural
finishes, and the rest get opaque paint jobs), but it still looks
cool enough that I think it will be well worth it in the end.....

[geoff]

On 2/04/2014 4:59 p.m., Paul wrote:
> On 4/1/2014 6:31 PM, Tony Done wrote:
>> My music-store-owning mate has used it a few times. It works well if you
>> are careful, but offers no protection against dings.
>>
>> I've redone gunstocks and preferred linseed with a heavy dose of
>> Terebine accelerant to Tru-Oil - it ended looking more like oil and less
>> like varnish. I've use Feast Watson Chinawood Oil (tung plus poly) on
>> guitars, but I think there are better options.
>> --
>
> Well, the main ingredient of Tru-oil appears to be linseed oil, which
> I do have as a canvas painter, and which I have read some people use
> in the raw, by itself, on bare wood. Perhaps a stain first, before the
> raw linseed oil?

cOULD END UP WITH THE STAIN COMING OFF ON HANDS, CLOTHES, ETC FOREVER ....

GEOFF

ooops, caps-lock

[Tony Done]

On 4/2/2014 1:59 PM, Paul wrote:
> On 4/1/2014 6:31 PM, Tony Done wrote:
>> My music-store-owning mate has used it a few times. It works well if you
>> are careful, but offers no protection against dings.
>>
>> I've redone gunstocks and preferred linseed with a heavy dose of
>> Terebine accelerant to Tru-Oil - it ended looking more like oil and less
>> like varnish. I've use Feast Watson Chinawood Oil (tung plus poly) on
>> guitars, but I think there are better options.
>> --
>
> Well, the main ingredient of Tru-oil appears to be linseed oil, which
> I do have as a canvas painter, and which I have read some people use
> in the raw, by itself, on bare wood. Perhaps a stain first, before the
> raw linseed oil?
>
> BTW, stripping the paint from a bass or guitar body is not exactly
> easy work! And the wood figuring is not the greatest on this body
> (the factories will cherry pick the best looking bodies for natural
> finishes, and the rest get opaque paint jobs), but it still looks
> cool enough that I think it will be well worth it in the end.....
>
>

I've never done this with an oil finish, but what I would try is using
one of the alcohol based wood stains, not the water-based ones. I would
dilute it with denatured alcohol and apply it with a fad - cotton balls
wrapped in lint-free rag - building up the layers of stain to taste.
Watch out that the stain doesn't soak into the end grain. You can always
wash some, but not all, of it off with alcohol if you bodge it.

The oil and some buffing of the final finish should stop it coming out
into your clothes.

--
Tony Done

http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=784456

http://www.flickr.com/photos/done_family/

[Paul[_13_]]

On 4/2/2014 12:11 AM, Tony Done wrote:
> On 4/2/2014 1:59 PM, Paul wrote:
>> On 4/1/2014 6:31 PM, Tony Done wrote:
>>> My music-store-owning mate has used it a few times. It works well if you
>>> are careful, but offers no protection against dings.
>>>
>>> I've redone gunstocks and preferred linseed with a heavy dose of
>>> Terebine accelerant to Tru-Oil - it ended looking more like oil and less
>>> like varnish. I've use Feast Watson Chinawood Oil (tung plus poly) on
>>> guitars, but I think there are better options.
>>> --
>>
>> Well, the main ingredient of Tru-oil appears to be linseed oil, which
>> I do have as a canvas painter, and which I have read some people use
>> in the raw, by itself, on bare wood. Perhaps a stain first, before the
>> raw linseed oil?
>>
>> BTW, stripping the paint from a bass or guitar body is not exactly
>> easy work! And the wood figuring is not the greatest on this body
>> (the factories will cherry pick the best looking bodies for natural
>> finishes, and the rest get opaque paint jobs), but it still looks
>> cool enough that I think it will be well worth it in the end.....
>>
>>
>
> I've never done this with an oil finish, but what I would try is using
> one of the alcohol based wood stains, not the water-based ones. I would
> dilute it with denatured alcohol and apply it with a fad - cotton balls
> wrapped in lint-free rag - building up the layers of stain to taste.
> Watch out that the stain doesn't soak into the end grain. You can always
> wash some, but not all, of it off with alcohol if you bodge it.
>
> The oil and some buffing of the final finish should stop it coming out
> into your clothes.
>

How about Minwax Special Walnut 224 oil-based wood stain? It
worked great to refinish my spinet piano, but I've never used it
under linseed oil or Tru-oil.

I might try it under the Tru-oil.....

[Gray_Wolf]

On Tue, 1 Apr 2014 01:14:10 -0700 (PDT), Nate Najar
> wrote:

>I have a few guitars done that way and it is terrific.

Would it work well on a classical?

Thanks

[Paul[_13_]]

On 4/2/2014 9:36 AM, Gray_Wolf wrote:
> On Tue, 1 Apr 2014 01:14:10 -0700 (PDT), Nate Najar
> > wrote:
>
>> I have a few guitars done that way and it is terrific.
>
> Would it work well on a classical?
>

Good question, as I believe most of Nate's guitars are nylon string,
right Nate?

[Peter Larsen[_3_]]

Paul wrote:

> On 4/1/2014 6:31 PM, Tony Done wrote:

>> My music-store-owning mate has used it a few times. It works well if
>> you are careful, but offers no protection against dings.

>> I've redone gunstocks and preferred linseed with a heavy dose of
>> Terebine accelerant to Tru-Oil - it ended looking more like oil and
>> less like varnish. I've use Feast Watson Chinawood Oil (tung plus
>> poly) on guitars, but I think there are better options.

> Well, the main ingredient of Tru-oil appears to be linseed oil,
> which I do have as a canvas painter, and which I have read some
> people use in the raw, by itself, on bare wood. Perhaps a stain first,
> before
> the raw linseed oil?

> BTW, stripping the paint from a bass or guitar body is not exactly
> easy work! And the wood figuring is not the greatest on this body
> (the factories will cherry pick the best looking bodies for natural
> finishes, and the rest get opaque paint jobs), but it still looks
> cool enough that I think it will be well worth it in the end.....

Beware of the risk of auto-ignition of rags with raw linseed oil on them.

Kind regards

Peter Larsen

[Nate Najar]

I misread. I don't own any guitars that are finished that way. I have two guitars whose necks are finished on the back that way. But no full bodies. It feels terrific on the left hand though.

N

[Tony Done]

On 4/2/2014 8:19 PM, Paul wrote:
> On 4/2/2014 12:11 AM, Tony Done wrote:
>> On 4/2/2014 1:59 PM, Paul wrote:
>>> On 4/1/2014 6:31 PM, Tony Done wrote:
>>>> My music-store-owning mate has used it a few times. It works well if
>>>> you
>>>> are careful, but offers no protection against dings.
>>>>
>>>> I've redone gunstocks and preferred linseed with a heavy dose of
>>>> Terebine accelerant to Tru-Oil - it ended looking more like oil and
>>>> less
>>>> like varnish. I've use Feast Watson Chinawood Oil (tung plus poly) on
>>>> guitars, but I think there are better options.
>>>> --
>>>
>>> Well, the main ingredient of Tru-oil appears to be linseed oil,
>>> which
>>> I do have as a canvas painter, and which I have read some people use
>>> in the raw, by itself, on bare wood. Perhaps a stain first, before the
>>> raw linseed oil?
>>>
>>> BTW, stripping the paint from a bass or guitar body is not exactly
>>> easy work! And the wood figuring is not the greatest on this body
>>> (the factories will cherry pick the best looking bodies for natural
>>> finishes, and the rest get opaque paint jobs), but it still looks
>>> cool enough that I think it will be well worth it in the end.....
>>>
>>>
>>
>> I've never done this with an oil finish, but what I would try is using
>> one of the alcohol based wood stains, not the water-based ones. I would
>> dilute it with denatured alcohol and apply it with a fad - cotton balls
>> wrapped in lint-free rag - building up the layers of stain to taste.
>> Watch out that the stain doesn't soak into the end grain. You can always
>> wash some, but not all, of it off with alcohol if you bodge it.
>>
>> The oil and some buffing of the final finish should stop it coming out
>> into your clothes.
>>
>
> How about Minwax Special Walnut 224 oil-based wood stain? It
> worked great to refinish my spinet piano, but I've never used it
> under linseed oil or Tru-oil.
>
> I might try it under the Tru-oil.....
>
>
>
I've never used it, but worth a try. It might mix with Tru-Oil, which
offers other possibilities.

--
Tony Done

http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=784456

http://www.flickr.com/photos/done_family/