SM57 Resistor Gizmo

[adam79]

When soldering the resistor to the wires, do you need to use a piece of
solder, or can you just connect the metal strips (on each side of the
resistor) directly to the mic cable wires?

Also, just to verify, the connection is made between pin2 and pin3, right?

Thanks to all for the help,
-Adam

[Roy W. Rising[_2_]]

adam79 > wrote:
> When soldering the resistor to the wires, do you need to use a piece of
> solder, or can you just connect the metal strips (on each side of the
> resistor) directly to the mic cable wires?
>
> Also, just to verify, the connection is made between pin2 and pin3,
> right?
>
> Thanks to all for the help,
> -Adam

When I solder a resistor across pins 2&3 on a male XLR, first I "tin" the
resistor wires by heating each one while touching some solder to the tip of
the iron and the wire. Then I refresh the solder in the holes of the pins
by heating them, and the existing wires, while touching the solder to the
iron's tip, wire and pin opening. Lastly, I re-heat the same opening and
push in the wire of the resistor. When the first one sets, I do the same
to the other wire/pin.

PRIME RULE OF SOLDERING:
It takes one second longer for the solder to set than it takes for the heat
to travel up the wire to your fingers and make you say "ouch".

Don't let go until the solder is set, or you'll have a "cold joint" that
can give problems later. Sometimes I use pliers. ;-p

If this is your first adventure with solder, practice on some scrap wire to
get the feel for it. Also, there are several Basic Soldering videos on
YouTube.

--
~ Roy
"If you notice the sound, it's wrong!"

[adam79]

On 9/10/10 8:19 PM, Roy W. Rising wrote:
>
> If this is your first adventure with solder, practice on some scrap wire to
> get the feel for it. Also, there are several Basic Soldering videos on
> YouTube.
>

The first of this type.. I've soldered mostly Guitar Cabs, and some
other more electronic things, but only a few times.

The pins on the resistor are long once I have them soldered off should I
clip off the access pin, or stuff it in there somehow?

Thanks for the quick response. I can't wait to try this and A/B the
sound difference!

-Adam

[gjsmo]

On Sep 10, 9:00*pm, adam79 > wrote:
> On 9/10/10 8:19 PM, Roy W. Rising wrote:
>
>
>
> > If this is your first adventure with solder, practice on some scrap wire to
> > get the feel for it. *Also, there are several Basic Soldering videos on
> > YouTube.
>
> The first of this type.. I've soldered mostly Guitar Cabs, and some
> other more electronic things, but only a few times.
>
> The pins on the resistor are long once I have them soldered off should I
> clip off the access pin, or stuff it in there somehow?
>
> Thanks for the quick response. I can't wait to try this and A/B the
> sound difference!
>
> -Adam

Always clip off long leads...

[[email protected]]

Adam writes:
>> If this is your first adventure with solder, practice on some
>>scrap wire to get the feel for it. Also, there are several Basic
>>Soldering videos on YouTube.
>The first of this type.. I've soldered mostly Guitar Cabs, and some
>other more electronic things, but only a few times.
>The pins on the resistor are long once I have them soldered off
>should I clip off the access pin, or stuff it in there somehow?
>Thanks for the quick response. I can't wait to try this and A/B the
>sound difference!
YOU can clip off excess. IF you're not used to fine work
though practice on osme scrap first.

Main thing with any solder joint is to make two pieces one,
as the man says, wait until you feel the ouch before
withdrawing the heat, or use a good pair of pliers to hold
your work.


US blind oflks have to modify usual soldering techniques
slightly. My preferred is a foot switch tocontrol
activating the iron instead of the trigger, better fine
motor control. Also a good method of feeding solder to the
work. I had a fairly good jig before my after Katrina fire,
mates for most common connectors, i.e. xlr, quarter inch,
pl259 and so239 coaxial, etc. THis way I could mate the
connector up with its opposite number and have a good way to
hold it stationary while I soldered my connections, allowing
me to feed solder to the work with one hand and control
where my tip was with the other.





Richard webb,

replace anything before at with elspider
ON site audio in the southland: see www.gatasound.com

[alex]

Il 11/09/2010 1.14, adam79 ha scritto:
> When soldering the resistor to the wires, do you need to use a piece of
> solder, or can you just connect the metal strips (on each side of the
> resistor) directly to the mic cable wires?
>
> Also, just to verify, the connection is made between pin2 and pin3, right?
>
> Thanks to all for the help,
> -Adam
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering

[alex]

Il 11/09/2010 17.59, alex ha scritto:
> Il 11/09/2010 1.14, adam79 ha scritto:
>> When soldering the resistor to the wires, do you need to use a piece of
>> solder, or can you just connect the metal strips (on each side of the
>> resistor) directly to the mic cable wires?
>>
>> Also, just to verify, the connection is made between pin2 and pin3,
>> right?
>>
>> Thanks to all for the help,
>> -Adam
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soldering
http://www.uneeda-audio.com/pads/pad01.jpg

[RD Jones]

On Sep 10, 7:19*pm, Roy W. Rising >
wrote:

> PRIME RULE OF SOLDERING:
> It takes one second longer for the solder to set than it takes for the heat
> to travel up the wire to your fingers and make you say "ouch".
>
> Don't let go until the solder is set, or you'll have a "cold joint" that
> can give problems later. *Sometimes I use pliers. ;-p

Medical style latching hemostats.
I have several pairs, straight and curved tip versions.
The curve tip ones can be laid flat on the work surface and will hold
wires or resistor leads at about the right height for mating to each
other.

A Panavice is another nice tool for this type of work.

rd

[Roy W. Rising[_2_]]

RD Jones > wrote:
> On Sep 10, 7:19=A0pm, Roy W. Rising >
> wrote:
>
> > PRIME RULE OF SOLDERING:
> > It takes one second longer for the solder to set than it takes for the
> > he=
> at
> > to travel up the wire to your fingers and make you say "ouch".
> >
> > Don't let go until the solder is set, or you'll have a "cold joint"
> > that can give problems later. =A0Sometimes I use pliers. ;-p
>
> Medical style latching hemostats.
> I have several pairs, straight and curved tip versions.
> The curve tip ones can be laid flat on the work surface and will hold
> wires or resistor leads at about the right height for mating to each
> other.
>
> A Panavice is another nice tool for this type of work.
>
> rd

I've gotten by many times using a pair of slip-joint pliers with a rubber
band around the grips. Long ago I considered selling the combo as an
"Electronics Technician's Field Work Holder". In those days the pliers
were 98 cents, I might have asked $4.99.

--
~ Roy
"If you notice the sound, it's wrong!"

[Mike Rivers]

On 9/13/2010 10:27 PM, adam79 wrote:

> Are you talking about connecting it diagonally, or to bend each lead at
> a right angle so it's parallel? It doesn't work as well connecting it
> horizontally?

Excuse me while I scream.

EEYYYYYIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIII!


--
"Today's production equipment is IT based and cannot be operated without
a passing knowledge of computing, although it seems that it can be
operated without a passing knowledge of audio" - John Watkinson

[Frank Stearns]

Mike Rivers > writes:

>On 9/13/2010 10:27 PM, adam79 wrote:

>> Are you talking about connecting it diagonally, or to bend each lead at
>> a right angle so it's parallel? It doesn't work as well connecting it
>> horizontally?

>Excuse me while I scream.

>EEYYYYYIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIII!


Yeah, I was thinking much the same. I mean, how many times has this been addressed
in this thread?

OTOH, as a youngster, exploring a lot of this stuff on my own, I remember getting
worked up now and then about various things in isolation that even a short time
later made me very embarrassed to recall how I'd thought about them initially. I'd
just been plain stupid and worse, hadn't yet learned the most basic forms of
logical/mechanical thought. Part of learning.

It's when something is so new, and self-explored without the benefit of anyone
showing you something in, say, a classroom setting, that things can get silly. And
reading text isn't the same as hands-dirty on the bench.

Adam, there was a photo of this at one point; I think Roy provided it. Just put the
resistor stacked in line with one of the pins, then fold the other lead back to the
other pin. Put a little insulating sleeve on the fold-over lead so that it won't
short somewhere when you close up the connector. (You can even steal a little piece
of insulation from a scrap piece of wire.)

Next, see if you can find a high-school or community college course on basic
electronics or electricity where for a few weeks they'll expose you to soldering and
such.

On the other hand, such classes might not even exist any more. Who needs to learn
that kind of stuff when you buy the function you want in a pre-made "appliance," and
then throw the entire thing away when it breaks? (But who learns how to build the
damn appliance in the first place??? And is a loading resistor even an appliance?!)

I can see that simple skills like this are becoming things of legend to worship and
chant about while the flickering light of the high-tech campfire dances across the
faces of the awed...

Frank
Mobile Audio

--

[Roy W. Rising[_2_]]

Mike Rivers > wrote:
> On 9/13/2010 10:27 PM, adam79 wrote:
>
> > Are you talking about connecting it diagonally, or to bend each lead at
> > a right angle so it's parallel? It doesn't work as well connecting it
> > horizontally?
>
> Excuse me while I scream.
>
> EEYYYYYIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
> IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII!

Hey Mike ~ May I use that in a Sound Effects project? It layers well with
a squeaking door effect and a hyenna laugh. My own scream about this
didn't work nearly as well. Is this guy trying to lengthen our legs?

--
~ Roy
"If you notice the sound, it's wrong!"

[alex]

On 15/09/2010 17:55, Frank Stearns wrote:
> Next, see if you can find a high-school or community college course on basic
> electronics or electricity where for a few weeks they'll expose you to soldering and
> such.
>
> On the other hand, such classes might not even exist any more. Who needs to learn
> that kind of stuff when you buy the function you want in a pre-made "appliance," and
> then throw the entire thing away when it breaks? (But who learns how to build the
> damn appliance in the first place??? And is a loading resistor even an appliance?!)
topic like this are well discussed on the net. Nobody ask you to be an
university grade soldering expert when you're trying to put a resistor
in an xlr.
And remember. if things go wrong you can always de-solder it and start
again from scratch, maybe you can burn the xlr plastic part by
overheating it but you have to start somewhere. Learning from mistakes
is a very common thing.
JUST DO IT.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-solder/
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/solder.htm
http://www.mediacollege.com/misc/solder/
http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm
http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/solderfaq.htm

[hank alrich]

Frank Stearns > wrote:

> Mike Rivers > writes:
>
> >On 9/13/2010 10:27 PM, adam79 wrote:
>
> >> Are you talking about connecting it diagonally, or to bend each lead at
> >> a right angle so it's parallel? It doesn't work as well connecting it
> >> horizontally?
>
> >Excuse me while I scream.
>
> >EEYYYYYIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII
>
>
> Yeah, I was thinking much the same. I mean, how many times has this been
> addressed in this thread?
>
> OTOH, as a youngster, exploring a lot of this stuff on my own, I remember
> getting worked up now and then about various things in isolation that even
> a short time later made me very embarrassed to recall how I'd thought
> about them initially. I'd just been plain stupid and worse, hadn't yet
> learned the most basic forms of logical/mechanical thought. Part of
> learning.
>
> It's when something is so new, and self-explored without the benefit of
> anyone showing you something in, say, a classroom setting, that things can
> get silly. And reading text isn't the same as hands-dirty on the bench.
>
> Adam, there was a photo of this at one point; I think Roy provided it.
> Just put the resistor stacked in line with one of the pins, then fold the
> other lead back to the other pin. Put a little insulating sleeve on the
> fold-over lead so that it won't short somewhere when you close up the
> connector. (You can even steal a little piece of insulation from a scrap
> piece of wire.)
>
> Next, see if you can find a high-school or community college course on
> basic electronics or electricity where for a few weeks they'll expose you
> to soldering and such.
>
> On the other hand, such classes might not even exist any more. Who needs
> to learn that kind of stuff when you buy the function you want in a
> pre-made "appliance," and then throw the entire thing away when it breaks?
> (But who learns how to build the damn appliance in the first place??? And
> is a loading resistor even an appliance?!)
>
> I can see that simple skills like this are becoming things of legend to
> worship and chant about while the flickering light of the high-tech
> campfire dances across the faces of the awed...
>
> Frank
> Mobile Audio

What about the Coreolis effect? <g>

--
shut up and play your guitar * http://hankalrich.com/
http://armadillomusicproductions.com/who'slistening.html
http://www.sonicbids.com/HankandShaidriAlrichwithDougHarman

[Frank Stearns]

alex > writes:

>On 15/09/2010 17:55, Frank Stearns wrote:
>> Next, see if you can find a high-school or community college course on basic
>> electronics or electricity where for a few weeks they'll expose you to soldering and
>> such.
>>
>> On the other hand, such classes might not even exist any more. Who needs to learn
>> that kind of stuff when you buy the function you want in a pre-made "appliance," and
>> then throw the entire thing away when it breaks? (But who learns how to build the
>> damn appliance in the first place??? And is a loading resistor even an appliance?!)
>topic like this are well discussed on the net. Nobody ask you to be an
>university grade soldering expert when you're trying to put a resistor
>in an xlr.
>And remember. if things go wrong you can always de-solder it and start
>again from scratch, maybe you can burn the xlr plastic part by
>overheating it but you have to start somewhere. Learning from mistakes
>is a very common thing.
>JUST DO IT.

Alex, you are quite correct -- hands on is the best way to learn. Didn't mean that
one needed a degree to learn how to solder.

That said, proper technique, perhaps developed through immediate critique from
someone who knows what they're doing, can save destroying boards and parts, or
worse, making bad solder joints or weakening components that might look fine but
then later fail at the most inopportune time.

And that's where someone looking over your shoulder while you learn is a great help.
Not just for soldering, but for many of the mundane, day-to-day "mechanical" aspects
of audio engineering.

If there are any left, great instructors with real-world experience can be treasures
found at the community college level, and even occasionally in high schools.

I was taught in 7th grade shop class -- simplistic stuff (various ways to splice
20 gauge solid-core wire) but those good foundations, added to in senior high-school
electronics, have served me well for 40 years.

We also learned how to make tools and motors. What we produced as 13 year olds was
totally worthless, but the learning was invaluable.

Frank
Mobile Audio
--

[alex]

On 15/09/2010 20:36, Frank Stearns wrote:
> Alex, you are quite correct -- hands on is the best way to learn. Didn't mean that
> one needed a degree to learn how to solder.
>
> That said, proper technique, perhaps developed through immediate critique from
> someone who knows what they're doing, can save destroying boards and parts, or
> worse, making bad solder joints or weakening components that might look fine but
> then later fail at the most inopportune time.
>
> And that's where someone looking over your shoulder while you learn is a great help.
> Not just for soldering, but for many of the mundane, day-to-day "mechanical" aspects
> of audio engineering.
>
> If there are any left, great instructors with real-world experience can be treasures
> found at the community college level, and even occasionally in high schools.
>
> I was taught in 7th grade shop class -- simplistic stuff (various ways to splice
> 20 gauge solid-core wire) but those good foundations, added to in senior high-school
> electronics, have served me well for 40 years.
>
> We also learned how to make tools and motors. What we produced as 13 year olds was
> totally worthless, but the learning was invaluable.
>
> Frank
> Mobile Audio
> -- .


Frank, the point is:
*Is* Adam79 really interested in acquiring a good expertise in soldering
*or* he just want his "gizmo" to be done and soon discover the wonderful
benefits of a 600ohms load on his 57?

As soon he will required by some "paying" client to really learn how to
solder he can quickly do it. But for now he just need a resistor inside
an xlr and probably he can be much quicker in doing it than asking
someones help here. I'm almost sure he will solder 10 or 20 times in his
entire life, and even if it takes one hour each time, it will be ok.
Honestly i never been fascinated by the soldering science, i consider it
just a need to resolve daily problems.

alex

[Roy W. Rising[_2_]]

Frank Stearns > wrote:
> alex > writes:
>
> >On 15/09/2010 17:55, Frank Stearns wrote:
> >> Next, see if you can find a high-school or community college course on
> >> basic electronics or electricity where for a few weeks they'll expose
> >> you to soldering and such.
> >>
> >> On the other hand, such classes might not even exist any more. Who
> >> needs to learn that kind of stuff when you buy the function you want
> >> in a pre-made "appliance," and then throw the entire thing away when
> >> it breaks? (But who learns how to build the damn appliance in the
> >> first place??? And is a loading resistor even an appliance?!)
> >topic like this are well discussed on the net. Nobody ask you to be an
> >university grade soldering expert when you're trying to put a resistor
> >in an xlr.
> >And remember. if things go wrong you can always de-solder it and start
> >again from scratch, maybe you can burn the xlr plastic part by
> >overheating it but you have to start somewhere. Learning from mistakes
> >is a very common thing.
> >JUST DO IT.
>
> Alex, you are quite correct -- hands on is the best way to learn. Didn't
> mean that one needed a degree to learn how to solder.
>
> That said, proper technique, perhaps developed through immediate critique
> from someone who knows what they're doing, can save destroying boards and
> parts, or worse, making bad solder joints or weakening components that
> might look fine but then later fail at the most inopportune time.
>
> And that's where someone looking over your shoulder while you learn is a
> great help. Not just for soldering, but for many of the mundane,
> day-to-day "mechanical" aspects of audio engineering.
>
> If there are any left, great instructors with real-world experience can
> be treasures found at the community college level, and even occasionally
> in high schools.
>
> I was taught in 7th grade shop class -- simplistic stuff (various ways to
> splice 20 gauge solid-core wire) but those good foundations, added to in
> senior high-school electronics, have served me well for 40 years.
>
> We also learned how to make tools and motors. What we produced as 13 year
> olds was totally worthless, but the learning was invaluable.
>
> Frank
> Mobile Audio

Hear, Hear! That learning led me to a satisfying career designing,
building, installing, maintaining, modifying and *operating* broadcast TV
audio facilities. I wonder what ever became of that 7th grade crystal
radio!

--
~ Roy
"If you notice the sound, it's wrong!"

[RD Jones]

> EEYYYYYIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII*IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIII!

The important thing here is not that the job be done an exact certain
way,
or that a particular placement or proceedure be followed.

The important thing is that the end result functions as intended.
This means that there be no shorts or open circuits when it's all
put back together, and that there's no stress or strain on components
in their end position.

Cold solder joints can come apart at any time down the road.
So keep durability and reliability in mind, and you'll have a tool
that will work for years.

rd

[Mike Rivers]

On 9/15/2010 2:36 PM, Frank Stearns wrote:

> That said, proper technique, perhaps developed through immediate critique from
> someone who knows what they're doing, can save destroying boards and parts, or
> worse, making bad solder joints or weakening components that might look fine but
> then later fail at the most inopportune time.
>
> And that's where someone looking over your shoulder while you learn is a great help.
> Not just for soldering, but for many of the mundane, day-to-day "mechanical" aspects
> of audio engineering.

At the moment, I'd on the other side of the country from home, helping
out someone who decided that it would be worth while to fly me out and
spend a couple of days with him getting him over some stumbling blocks
with his setup. One of the things I showed him yesterday was how to
solder an XLR and TRS connector. He has a bunch of cables and a snake
that needed to be modified with different connectors in order to fit
into his system, and now he's confident that he can make up or modify
any cable that he needs.

This isn't rocket science, unless you're soldering things that are going
up in a satellite, but it helps to have someone show you the way so
you'll know how to do the job right.

--
"Today's production equipment is IT based and cannot be operated without
a passing knowledge of computing, although it seems that it can be
operated without a passing knowledge of audio" - John Watkinson

[hank alrich]

Mike Rivers > wrote:

> On 9/15/2010 2:36 PM, Frank Stearns wrote:
>
> > That said, proper technique, perhaps developed through immediate
> > critique from someone who knows what they're doing, can save destroying
> > boards and parts, or worse, making bad solder joints or weakening
> > components that might look fine but then later fail at the most
> > inopportune time.
> >
> > And that's where someone looking over your shoulder while you learn is a
> > great help. Not just for soldering, but for many of the mundane,
> > day-to-day "mechanical" aspects of audio engineering.
>
> At the moment, I'd on the other side of the country from home, helping
> out someone who decided that it would be worth while to fly me out and
> spend a couple of days with him getting him over some stumbling blocks
> with his setup. One of the things I showed him yesterday was how to
> solder an XLR and TRS connector. He has a bunch of cables and a snake
> that needed to be modified with different connectors in order to fit
> into his system, and now he's confident that he can make up or modify
> any cable that he needs.
>
> This isn't rocket science, unless you're soldering things that are going
> up in a satellite, but it helps to have someone show you the way so
> you'll know how to do the job right.

OT, but I find it remarkably refreshing to know there is someone out
there smart enough to spend the money for your time and travel in order
to learn how to get some simple things right. His investment will
payback a millionfold in confidence and satisfaction.

--
shut up and play your guitar * http://hankalrich.com/
http://armadillomusicproductions.com/who'slistening.html
http://www.sonicbids.com/HankandShaidriAlrichwithDougHarman

[Mike Rivers]

On 9/16/2010 8:50 PM, hank alrich wrote:

> OT, but I find it remarkably refreshing to know there is someone out
> there smart enough to spend the money for your time and travel in order
> to learn how to get some simple things right. His investment will
> payback a millionfold in confidence and satisfaction.

He was really pleased with how many things he now understands that he
"almost had" before my visit. I learned a few things I had forgotten,
too, for no extra charge. <g>



--
"Today's production equipment is IT based and cannot be operated without
a passing knowledge of computing, although it seems that it can be
operated without a passing knowledge of audio" - John Watkinson

[Keith W. Blackwell]

Mike Rivers > wrote:
> On 9/16/2010 8:50 PM, hank alrich wrote:
>
>> OT, but I find it remarkably refreshing to know there is someone out
>> there smart enough to spend the money for your time and travel in order
>> to learn how to get some simple things right. His investment will
>> payback a millionfold in confidence and satisfaction.
>
> He was really pleased with how many things he now understands that he
> "almost had" before my visit. I learned a few things I had forgotten,
> too, for no extra charge. <g>

Well, shucks, if you had video'ed it and put it up on YouTube (or
some such), I would watch it. :-)

--
Keith W. Blackwell
(my employer has nothing to do with this)

[Mike Rivers]

On 9/17/2010 12:44 PM, Keith W. Blackwell wrote:

> Well, shucks, if you had video'ed it and put it up on YouTube (or
> some such), I would watch it. :-)

Yeah, right. But then I wouldn't have made $1,000 off you. I suppose if
I charged the first guy $25,000, I wouldn't mind producing a giveaway
video from it. Wanna pony up to help your fellow forum readers? ;)



--
"Today's production equipment is IT based and cannot be operated without
a passing knowledge of computing, although it seems that it can be
operated without a passing knowledge of audio" - John Watkinson

[adam79]

On 9/15/10 11:55 AM, Frank Stearns wrote:
> Mike > writes:
>
>> On 9/13/2010 10:27 PM, adam79 wrote:
>
>>> Are you talking about connecting it diagonally, or to bend each lead at
>>> a right angle so it's parallel? It doesn't work as well connecting it
>>> horizontally?
>
>> Excuse me while I scream.
>
>> EEYYYYYIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII IIIIIIIIIIIIII!
>
>
> Adam, there was a photo of this at one point; I think Roy provided it. Just put the
> resistor stacked in line with one of the pins, then fold the other lead back to the
> other pin. Put a little insulating sleeve on the fold-over lead so that it won't
> short somewhere when you close up the connector. (You can even steal a little piece
> of insulation from a scrap piece of wire.)
>

I checked out the picture. I guess I phrased my earlier response about
connecting the resistor vertically; the picture looked like what I was
trying to explain (in my other post). Guess I have to take a linguistics
class too! DERP!

Thanks,
-Adam

[adam79]

On 9/15/10 12:19 PM, alex wrote:
>Nobody ask you to be an
> university grade soldering expert when you're trying to put a resistor
> in an xlr.
> And remember. if things go wrong you can always de-solder it and start
> again from scratch, maybe you can burn the xlr plastic part by
> overheating it but you have to start somewhere. Learning from mistakes
> is a very common thing.
> JUST DO IT.

HAHA, niiice. I've been really busy, which is why I haven't responded
for a while, but I finally got around to doing this. However, I noticed
that the wires for pin2 and pin3 have protectors, while pin1's wire is
left exposed. I don't have small enough cutters to strip the wire
protector, so I can solder the resistor to the pieces that the wires are
soldered to, right? If I explained this horribly, which I think I might
have, I put up a picture (http://members.toast.net/adam79/micxlr.jpg) of
the cable, with a red circle around the part I'm talking about.

Thanks again for all the help,
-Adam

[Mike Rivers]

On 9/29/2010 8:21 PM, adam79 wrote:

> I noticed
> that the wires for pin2 and pin3 have protectors, while pin1's wire is
> left exposed. I don't have small enough cutters to strip the wire
> protector, so I can solder the resistor to the pieces that the wires are
> soldered to, right?

Yes. You solder the resistor to the terminal, not the wire.

Please - before you ask another question here, find someone local who
can do this for you, and watch as he or she works. Soldering audio
connectors isn't an esoteric skill, but it's something that you can
understand so much better by seeing it done. A YouTube video is no
substitute for the real thing.

A TV repair shop can do it, as can a guitar repair technician who works
on electric guitars (doesn't even have to work on amplifiers).



--
"Today's production equipment is IT based and cannot be operated without
a passing knowledge of computing, although it seems that it can be
operated without a passing knowledge of audio" - John Watkinson

[Roy W. Rising[_2_]]

adam79 > wrote:
> On 9/15/10 12:19 PM, alex wrote:
> >Nobody ask you to be an
> > university grade soldering expert when you're trying to put a resistor
> > in an xlr.
> > And remember. if things go wrong you can always de-solder it and start
> > again from scratch, maybe you can burn the xlr plastic part by
> > overheating it but you have to start somewhere. Learning from mistakes
> > is a very common thing.
> > JUST DO IT.
>
> HAHA, niiice. I've been really busy, which is why I haven't responded
> for a while, but I finally got around to doing this. However, I noticed
> that the wires for pin2 and pin3 have protectors, while pin1's wire is
> left exposed. I don't have small enough cutters to strip the wire
> protector, so I can solder the resistor to the pieces that the wires are
> soldered to, right? If I explained this horribly, which I think I might
> have, I put up a picture (http://members.toast.net/adam79/micxlr.jpg) of
> the cable, with a red circle around the part I'm talking about.
>
> Thanks again for all the help,
> -Adam

Add a little fresh solder to the 'cups' where the existing wires are
soldered. Poke the tinned end of one resistor wire into a heated pool of
one pin and let it set. Bend the resistor's other tinned wire to where you
can repeat the process for the other pin. Refer to my 9/10/10 post for
other notes.

--
~ Roy
"If you notice the sound, it's wrong!"

[adam79]

On 9/30/10 7:02 AM, Mike Rivers wrote:
> On 9/29/2010 8:21 PM, adam79 wrote:
>
>> I noticed
>> that the wires for pin2 and pin3 have protectors, while pin1's wire is
>> left exposed. I don't have small enough cutters to strip the wire
>> protector, so I can solder the resistor to the pieces that the wires are
>> soldered to, right?
>
> Yes. You solder the resistor to the terminal, not the wire.
>

Cool, that will make things much easier. Thanks.