Amp and Sub ratings

[jkurtzman via CarKB.com]

I have one question before i buy this system. My Amp is a kicker zx 1000 watt
2 ohm amp. But the sub I want to buy has dual 4 ohms. Am I going to mess
anything up in the process by having different ohm values in these products?
Jus wanting to make sure. Thanks.

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/car-audio/200712/1

[DJ NoMore]

jkurtzman via CarKB.com wrote:
> I have one question before i buy this system. My Amp is a kicker zx 1000 watt
> 2 ohm amp. But the sub I want to buy has dual 4 ohms. Am I going to mess
> anything up in the process by having different ohm values in these products?
> Jus wanting to make sure. Thanks.
>
Uh, dual four ohm in parallel gets you about a two ohm nominal load.
Where do you see a problem with that?

[Tre]

On Dec 26, 6:47 pm, DJ NoMore >
wrote:
> jkurtzman via CarKB.com wrote:
> > I have one question before i buy this system. My Amp is a kicker zx 1000 watt
> > 2 ohm amp. But the sub I want to buy has dual 4 ohms. Am I going to mess
> > anything up in the process by having different ohm values in these products?
> > Jus wanting to make sure. Thanks.
>
> Uh, dual four ohm in parallel gets you about a two ohm nominal load.
> Where do you see a problem with that?

The only problem I c is if u wanna buy 2 subz and then run them
parallel, b cuz they wuold b pushing ur amp @ 1 ohm and that pushes an
amp really hard wen not meant 4 it! I know b cuz I hooked 2 2 ohm
dual voice coil subs parallel off one amp and my amp kept over heating
real bad. Took them to running 2 ohms and they beat my car up!

[DJ NoMore]

Tre wrote:
> On Dec 26, 6:47 pm, DJ NoMore >
> wrote:
>> jkurtzman via CarKB.com wrote:
>>> I have one question before i buy this system. My Amp is a kicker zx 1000 watt
>>> 2 ohm amp. But the sub I want to buy has dual 4 ohms. Am I going to mess
>>> anything up in the process by having different ohm values in these products?
>>> Jus wanting to make sure. Thanks.
>> Uh, dual four ohm in parallel gets you about a two ohm nominal load.
>> Where do you see a problem with that?
>
> The only problem I c is if u wanna buy 2 subz and then run them
> parallel, b cuz they wuold b pushing ur amp @ 1 ohm and that pushes an
> amp really hard wen not meant 4 it! I know b cuz I hooked 2 2 ohm
> dual voice coil subs parallel off one amp and my amp kept over heating
> real bad. Took them to running 2 ohms and they beat my car up!

You could always parallel each individual sub, then connect them in
series OR series each individual sub then connect them in parallel.

All I know is I am going to do a lot of research before I finish the
system in my 2006 Mustang GT due to the fact that I impulse purchased a
setup for my last vehicle, and got screwed out of some power as a result
of it. The installer/salesman knew me from back in the day, and sold me
a relatively inexpensive Memphis setup. Sadly, the DVC 4 ohm 10" sub
had to be wired in series because the amp he sold me was only rated for
4 ohms mono. I really wish he would have sold me a SVC sub @ 4 ohms
instead of pushing the DVC sub because it was "on sale" and I do not
appreciate the fact that he was less than honest about the ratings on
the Memphis Amp. OTOH, he could have sold me a better amp that was
rated for 2 ohms but he wanted to get rid of the stock he had on hand.

My negative experience taught me that if you want something done right,
you have to do it yourself!

[Christopher \Torroid\ Ott]

"DJ NoMore" > wrote in message
...
> You could always parallel each individual sub, then connect them in series
> OR series each individual sub then connect them in parallel.
>
> All I know is I am going to do a lot of research before I finish the
> system in my 2006 Mustang GT due to the fact that I impulse purchased a
> setup for my last vehicle, and got screwed out of some power as a result
> of it. The installer/salesman knew me from back in the day, and sold me a
> relatively inexpensive Memphis setup. Sadly, the DVC 4 ohm 10" sub had to
> be wired in series because the amp he sold me was only rated for 4 ohms
> mono. I really wish he would have sold me a SVC sub @ 4 ohms instead of
> pushing the DVC sub because it was "on sale" and I do not appreciate the
> fact that he was less than honest about the ratings on the Memphis Amp.
> OTOH, he could have sold me a better amp that was rated for 2 ohms but he
> wanted to get rid of the stock he had on hand.

This is a single channel amp? You're not as screwed as you think on this.
You could try:

a.) Connecting a single voice coil to your amp. You will still get twice the
power delivered to the sub. The sub may not "snap" as hard as it would with
both coils properly driven, but it should be better than your current 8 ohm
load.

or

b.) Go ahead and connect both coils in parallel (2 ohm) and turn down the
gains on the amp. You would not be the first to overload an amp into thermal
shutdown, and provided you don't push it into operating like that all the
time you should be fine. If you keep the gains down low enough that you can
place your hand on the heatsink when it's working hard there's no reason it
should hurt the amp. Industrial grade electronics are safe to operate
from -40c to +85c (-40F to +185F) and automotive grade increases the top end
to +125c (+257F). That's on the silicon, not the heatsink.

> My negative experience taught me that if you want something done right,
> you have to do it yourself!

Amen to that...

Chris

[GregS[_3_]]

In article >, "Christopher \"Torroid\" Ott" <spamtrap at ottelectronics dot com> wrote:
>"DJ NoMore" > wrote in message
...
>> You could always parallel each individual sub, then connect them in series
>> OR series each individual sub then connect them in parallel.
>>
>> All I know is I am going to do a lot of research before I finish the
>> system in my 2006 Mustang GT due to the fact that I impulse purchased a
>> setup for my last vehicle, and got screwed out of some power as a result
>> of it. The installer/salesman knew me from back in the day, and sold me a
>> relatively inexpensive Memphis setup. Sadly, the DVC 4 ohm 10" sub had to
>> be wired in series because the amp he sold me was only rated for 4 ohms
>> mono. I really wish he would have sold me a SVC sub @ 4 ohms instead of
>> pushing the DVC sub because it was "on sale" and I do not appreciate the
>> fact that he was less than honest about the ratings on the Memphis Amp.
>> OTOH, he could have sold me a better amp that was rated for 2 ohms but he
>> wanted to get rid of the stock he had on hand.
>
>This is a single channel amp? You're not as screwed as you think on this.
>You could try:
>
>a.) Connecting a single voice coil to your amp. You will still get twice the
>power delivered to the sub. The sub may not "snap" as hard as it would with
>both coils properly driven, but it should be better than your current 8 ohm
>load.


Qts will go up. Might work with a closed box, with more boom.

greg

>or
>
>b.) Go ahead and connect both coils in parallel (2 ohm) and turn down the
>gains on the amp. You would not be the first to overload an amp into thermal
>shutdown, and provided you don't push it into operating like that all the
>time you should be fine. If you keep the gains down low enough that you can
>place your hand on the heatsink when it's working hard there's no reason it
>should hurt the amp. Industrial grade electronics are safe to operate
>from -40c to +85c (-40F to +185F) and automotive grade increases the top end
>to +125c (+257F). That's on the silicon, not the heatsink.
>
>> My negative experience taught me that if you want something done right,
>> you have to do it yourself!
>
>Amen to that...
>
>Chris
>
>

[GregS[_3_]]

In article <7d4761c61612a@uwe>, "jkurtzman via CarKB.com" <u40152@uwe> wrote:
>I have one question before i buy this system. My Amp is a kicker zx 1000 watt
>2 ohm amp. But the sub I want to buy has dual 4 ohms. Am I going to mess
>anything up in the process by having different ohm values in these products?
>Jus wanting to make sure. Thanks.

Just connect them in parallel.

greg