Thanks to everyone who helped on that project of mine.

I finally found time to rewire those LED's in parallel (not series) and I
used a SINGLE 100 ohm resistor with the five 3.7 volt LED's and MAN IS IT
BRIGHT!!!! It LOOKS SOOOOOOO COOL right below my Alpine 9853 which has a
blue display and blue "Alpine crystals". It now it stays bright ALL THE
TIME!

I just took a couple of pictures you can see at:
http://www428.pair.com/mosfet/mtx.html

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED ME!!!

MOSFET

MOSFET wrote:
Thanks to everyone who helped on that project of mine.

I finally found time to rewire those LED's in parallel (not series) and I
used a SINGLE 100 ohm resistor with the five 3.7 volt LED's and MAN IS IT
BRIGHT!!!! It LOOKS SOOOOOOO COOL right below my Alpine 9853 which has a
blue display and blue "Alpine crystals". It now it stays bright ALL THE
TIME!

I just took a couple of pictures you can see at:
http://www428.pair.com/mosfet/mtx.html

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED ME!!!

Yer welcome

Whoa, that is bright! You don't find all that distracting when you're
driving?


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Whoa, that is bright! You don't find all that distracting when you're
driving?

No, not at all. I think those pictures make it seem a bit brighter than it
is. It really isn't distracting.

Thanks Matt, I really do appreciate your detailed instructions!

MOSFET

MOSFET wrote:
Whoa, that is bright! You don't find all that distracting when you're
driving?


No, not at all. I think those pictures make it seem a bit brighter than it
is. It really isn't distracting.

Thanks Matt, I really do appreciate your detailed instructions!

If you find it too bright, you could also try using a slightly higher
value of resistor, maybe 120 or 150 ohms.


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WHOA!, Dude, that looks sweet!
goos job.

i know i was of no technical help to you,
i just wanted to give praise

If you find it too bright, you could also try using a slightly higher
value of resistor, maybe 120 or 150 ohms.

Yes, as a matter of fact, since I wired it up in the day and did not know if
it might be too bright at night, I ran very long positive wires with the 100
ohm resistor out through my ash-tray, so they are easily accessible. That
way, if I wanted to add a 50 ohm resistor (which I did buy), I could do it
without taking everything apart again (all I have to do is remove my
ash-tray and pull the wires out). See, I'm learning after all these years!

BTW, I'm using big beefy 10 watt ceramic resistors.

MOSFET

"winkenstein" wrote in message
ups.com...

WHOA!, Dude, that looks sweet!
goos job.

i know i was of no technical help to you,
i just wanted to give praise

THANKS!

So the question is, do the led's still dim?


In article , "MOSFET"
wrote:
Thanks to everyone who helped on that project of mine.

I finally found time to rewire those LED's in parallel (not series) and I
used a SINGLE 100 ohm resistor with the five 3.7 volt LED's and MAN IS IT
BRIGHT!!!! It LOOKS SOOOOOOO COOL right below my Alpine 9853 which has a
blue display and blue "Alpine crystals". It now it stays bright ALL THE
TIME!

I just took a couple of pictures you can see at:
http://www428.pair.com/mosfet/mtx.html

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED ME!!!

MOSFET

To have more control over the brightness you could replace the resistor
with a variable resistor. This way you could adjust the brightness as
needed.

"MOSFET" wrote in message
...
If you find it too bright, you could also try using a slightly higher
value of resistor, maybe 120 or 150 ohms.

Yes, as a matter of fact, since I wired it up in the day and did not know
if it might be too bright at night, I ran very long positive wires with
the 100 ohm resistor out through my ash-tray, so they are easily
accessible. That way, if I wanted to add a 50 ohm resistor (which I did
buy), I could do it without taking everything apart again (all I have to
do is remove my ash-tray and pull the wires out). See, I'm learning after
all these years!

BTW, I'm using big beefy 10 watt ceramic resistors.

MOSFET

Captain Howdy wrote:
So the question is, do the led's still dim?

"It now it stays bright ALL THE TIME!"



In article , "MOSFET"
wrote:

Thanks to everyone who helped on that project of mine.

I finally found time to rewire those LED's in parallel (not series) and I
used a SINGLE 100 ohm resistor with the five 3.7 volt LED's and MAN IS IT
BRIGHT!!!! It LOOKS SOOOOOOO COOL right below my Alpine 9853 which has a
blue display and blue "Alpine crystals". It now it stays bright ALL THE
TIME!

I just took a couple of pictures you can see at:
http://www428.pair.com/mosfet/mtx.html

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED ME!!!

MOSFET




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Brian Oglow wrote:
To have more control over the brightness you could replace the resistor
with a variable resistor. This way you could adjust the brightness as
needed.

I thought of that; problem is, most readily-available potentiometers are
much higher resistance (1kohm and up) so the LEDs would only operate
through a very small portion of its range, and most won't have the
necessary power handling. Suitable units DO exist, of course, but
they're not as common.


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In article coeUf.174188$B94.102673@pd7tw3no, Matt Ion wrote:
Brian Oglow wrote:
To have more control over the brightness you could replace the resistor
with a variable resistor. This way you could adjust the brightness as
needed.

I thought of that; problem is, most readily-available potentiometers are
much higher resistance (1kohm and up) so the LEDs would only operate
through a very small portion of its range, and most won't have the
necessary power handling. Suitable units DO exist, of course, but
they're not as common.

The most logical solution other than ordering a pot, use
a LM317 to drive the resistor and Led's.
http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM117.pdf


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"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...
So the question is, do the led's still dim?

NOT AT ALL!!! In fact, I tried really cranking my system and didn't notice
any change at all. Also, the RPM's of the motor make no difference either.
I LOVE IT!!! I would have NEVER been able to solve this without your
help!!!

MOSFET

In article , (GregS) wrote:
In article coeUf.174188$B94.102673@pd7tw3no, Matt Ion
wrote:
Brian Oglow wrote:
To have more control over the brightness you could replace the resistor
with a variable resistor. This way you could adjust the brightness as
needed.

I thought of that; problem is, most readily-available potentiometers are
much higher resistance (1kohm and up) so the LEDs would only operate
through a very small portion of its range, and most won't have the
necessary power handling. Suitable units DO exist, of course, but
they're not as common.

The most logical solution other than ordering a pot, use
a LM317 to drive the resistor and Led's.
http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM117.pdf

Well there is another way. Add another 100 ohms with a
parallel switch. Hi/Low.

greg

To have more control over the brightness you could replace the resistor
with a variable resistor. This way you could adjust the brightness as
needed.

Now that is a damn good idea!!! I actually have a potentiometer already
mounted in my center console that I am not using. It was my sub volume
control when I was using an Alpine 7863 (with two sets of pre-amp outputs),
but after I bought my 9853 (with three sets) I no longer needed it.

Will a potentiometer work? I think I will try this! Thanks!

MOSFET

I thought of that; problem is, most readily-available potentiometers are
much higher resistance (1kohm and up) so the LEDs would only operate
through a very small portion of its range, and most won't have the
necessary power handling.

Would it be DANGEROUS to try hooking up my potentiometer to it? I don't
happen to know what the specs are on it, I just know it controlled the RCA
levels to my sub-amp.

MOSFET

MOSFET wrote:
I thought of that; problem is, most readily-available potentiometers are
much higher resistance (1kohm and up) so the LEDs would only operate
through a very small portion of its range, and most won't have the
necessary power handling.


Would it be DANGEROUS to try hooking up my potentiometer to it? I don't
happen to know what the specs are on it, I just know it controlled the RCA
levels to my sub-amp.

A potentiometer is just a varaible resisitor, allowing you to adjust the
amount of resistance. Certainly nothing dangerous about it. The
problems, as I noted, are in the amount of resistance it provides, and
the power it will handle. One designed to control your line-level feeds
is probably a low-power, high-resistance type, and not suitable to the
task.

As an example, Radio Shack lists 11 "pots" on their website: all but one
are at least 5kohm and 1/2-watt or less, with that rating, if you turned
it any more than maybe 10 degrees, you'd have too much resistance and
your LEDs would shut down... if the pot didn't burn out first.

The one they list that's closer is a 25-ohm, 3-watt unit
(http://tinyurl.com/na3q6); to use it, you'd wire it in series with your
existing resistor, but that would only adjust your total resistance
between 100 to 125 ohms and probably wouldn't make a big difference to
the brightness.

GregS had a better suggestion: add another 100-ohm resistor and a switch
in parallel with it, and wire those in series with your existing
resistor, and you'll have a high/low brightness switch.

IF you need it...


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" GregS had a better suggestion: add another 100-ohm resistor and a switch
in parallel with it, and wire those in series with your existing resistor,
and you'll have a high/low brightness switch.

IF you need it...


I very well may do this. Even though I don't find it too bright, I have a
feeling my wife might. A switch to dim them would be useful. Thanks
again!!! RAC ROCKS!!

MOSFET

WARNING: DO NOT *REPLACE* your resistor with a pot!! If you turn the pot
"down" too far, you'll lower the resistance too much and burn out your
LEDs! If you do wire in a pot, LEAVE YOUR EXISTING RESISTOR IN PLACE, and
wire the pot in series with it.

Thanks! Will do.

MOSFET

And apparently its "OFFICIAL"... at least according to your Alpine HU...

Brandonb


MOSFET wrote:
Thanks to everyone who helped on that project of mine.

I finally found time to rewire those LED's in parallel (not series) and I
used a SINGLE 100 ohm resistor with the five 3.7 volt LED's and MAN IS IT
BRIGHT!!!! It LOOKS SOOOOOOO COOL right below my Alpine 9853 which has a
blue display and blue "Alpine crystals". It now it stays bright ALL THE
TIME!

I just took a couple of pictures you can see at:
http://www428.pair.com/mosfet/mtx.html

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED ME!!!

MOSFET

Just throwing this out there as I have no clue on the electronics
involved... Is there any feasible way to connect it to the car's dimmer
switch? HU's usually have Dimmer and Illumination leads for this?

Brandonb


Matt Ion wrote:
MOSFET wrote:

I thought of that; problem is, most readily-available potentiometers are
much higher resistance (1kohm and up) so the LEDs would only operate
through a very small portion of its range, and most won't have the
necessary power handling.



Would it be DANGEROUS to try hooking up my potentiometer to it? I
don't happen to know what the specs are on it, I just know it
controlled the RCA levels to my sub-amp.


A potentiometer is just a varaible resisitor, allowing you to adjust the
amount of resistance. Certainly nothing dangerous about it. The
problems, as I noted, are in the amount of resistance it provides, and
the power it will handle. One designed to control your line-level feeds
is probably a low-power, high-resistance type, and not suitable to the
task.

As an example, Radio Shack lists 11 "pots" on their website: all but one
are at least 5kohm and 1/2-watt or less, with that rating, if you turned
it any more than maybe 10 degrees, you'd have too much resistance and
your LEDs would shut down... if the pot didn't burn out first.

The one they list that's closer is a 25-ohm, 3-watt unit
(http://tinyurl.com/na3q6); to use it, you'd wire it in series with your
existing resistor, but that would only adjust your total resistance
between 100 to 125 ohms and probably wouldn't make a big difference to
the brightness.

GregS had a better suggestion: add another 100-ohm resistor and a switch
in parallel with it, and wire those in series with your existing
resistor, and you'll have a high/low brightness switch.

IF you need it...


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LEDs should not be connected in paralell thru one resistor due to
differences in load sharing, remember a LED is current driven not voltage
driven. The resistor is for current limiting. see:
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm

Chad

"MOSFET" wrote in message
...
Thanks to everyone who helped on that project of mine.

I finally found time to rewire those LED's in parallel (not series) and I
used a SINGLE 100 ohm resistor with the five 3.7 volt LED's and MAN IS IT
BRIGHT!!!! It LOOKS SOOOOOOO COOL right below my Alpine 9853 which has a
blue display and blue "Alpine crystals". It now it stays bright ALL THE
TIME!

I just took a couple of pictures you can see at:
http://www428.pair.com/mosfet/mtx.html

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED ME!!!

MOSFET

Oops, I forgot to add.... it looks great!

Chad


"MOSFET" wrote in message
...
Thanks to everyone who helped on that project of mine.

I finally found time to rewire those LED's in parallel (not series) and I
used a SINGLE 100 ohm resistor with the five 3.7 volt LED's and MAN IS IT
BRIGHT!!!! It LOOKS SOOOOOOO COOL right below my Alpine 9853 which has a
blue display and blue "Alpine crystals". It now it stays bright ALL THE
TIME!

I just took a couple of pictures you can see at:
http://www428.pair.com/mosfet/mtx.html

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED ME!!!

MOSFET

LEDs should not be connected in paralell thru one resistor due to
differences in load sharing,

Well, it's too late Chad, I've gone and done it and it seems to be working
(I just came back from a three hour drive, no fires). So there, neeeeahhh!

Thanks for the compliment!

MOSFET

"Brandonb" wrote in message
...
And apparently its "OFFICIAL"... at least according to your Alpine HU...


Yes, I was listening to the 2000-2001 Offical IASCA disc.

MOSFET

Brandonb wrote:
Just throwing this out there as I have no clue on the electronics
involved... Is there any feasible way to connect it to the car's dimmer
switch? HU's usually have Dimmer and Illumination leads for this?

Depends on the car and the HU. Most newer units I've seen will only dim
the display one step if the dashlights are on, or leave it full
brightness if dashlights are off.

Similarly, the "dash light" lead in some cars actually provide a varying
positive output... some provide a varying negative output (ie. power
feeds the lights directly and the connection to ground is then
controlled), and some simply provide an "on" or "off" signal and the
light brightness is controlled another way. If the car uses standard
incansecent bulbs for the dash lights, the controls also don't usually
vary the voltage, but instead vary the duty cycle (technically, turning
the lights on and off very fast); this works on the principle that it
takes a certain amount of time for an incandescent bulb to full light up
and go dark.

So in order to do this, he'd first have to figure out how HIS car
controls the dash lighs, and possibly build a relatively complex
interface for it...


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Good stuff, that's what I wanted to hear. I don't know about never being able
to do it without my help a few people had the right answer, I just thought
that the 5 volt regulator was an unnecessary fire hazzard. The pic looks great
matches your alpine really well.

In article , "MOSFET"
wrote:

"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...
So the question is, do the led's still dim?

NOT AT ALL!!! In fact, I tried really cranking my system and didn't notice
any change at all. Also, the RPM's of the motor make no difference either.
I LOVE IT!!! I would have NEVER been able to solve this without your
help!!!

MOSFET

I think that the potentiometer will work just fine, just add it to the
resistor that you already have and see how it works or option two, find a
resistor that will dim the led's to the level that you want and then you can
wire it all up to a two position toggle switch. This will work like a high and
low switch.


In article , "MOSFET"
wrote:
To have more control over the brightness you could replace the resistor
with a variable resistor. This way you could adjust the brightness as
needed.

Now that is a damn good idea!!! I actually have a potentiometer already
mounted in my center console that I am not using. It was my sub volume
control when I was using an Alpine 7863 (with two sets of pre-amp outputs),
but after I bought my 9853 (with three sets) I no longer needed it.

Will a potentiometer work? I think I will try this! Thanks!

MOSFET

Since this Alpine unit has EXTENSIVE EQ features built in, it might occur to
some of you that a dash mounted EQ is unecessary. But to anyone who has
owned an Alpine with the Bass Engine Pro feature, the reasons are OBVIOUS!
In fact, I decided to get a dash mounted EQ only AFTER I got the 9853.
THERE ARE NO BASS AND TREBLE CONTROLS ON THIS UNIT!!!! And to operate any
of the EQ functions, you have to navigate through about 20 menus, a feat
only Evil Kenivel would attempt in traffic. Sure, the sub-volume control is
easy to get to, but I have always been the type to fiddle with my bass and
treble. Now I HAVE used an SPL meter and test tones to set the parametric
EQ to compensate for accoustic annomolies in the car's cabin (standing
waves, cancellation effects, etc.). But beyond that, I have ALWAYS wanted
a measure of control to adjust tonal characteristics for each song (if even
bass and treble controls). That's why I use this 7 band Clarion EQ.

MOSFET

Hey Nick, that does look really nice!!

Tony


--
2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition
Clarion DRZ9255 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and Xenon X1200.1
Amplifiers, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and Focal 130HCs For Rear
Fill, Image Dynamics IDMAX10 D4 v.3 Sub

2001 Chevy S10 ZR2
Pioneer DEH-P9600MP Head Unit, Phoenix Gold Ti500.4 Amp, Focal 165HC
Speakers & Image Dynamics ID8 D4 v.3 Sub

2006 Mustang GT Coupe

Hey Nick, that does look really nice!!

Tony

Thanks Tony, I'm very pleased.

Nick

"MOSFET" wrote in message
...
Since this Alpine unit has EXTENSIVE EQ features built in, it might occur
to some of you that a dash mounted EQ is unecessary. But to anyone who
has owned an Alpine with the Bass Engine Pro feature, the reasons are
OBVIOUS! In fact, I decided to get a dash mounted EQ only AFTER I got the
9853. THERE ARE NO BASS AND TREBLE CONTROLS ON THIS UNIT!!!! And to
operate any of the EQ functions, you have to navigate through about 20
menus, a feat only Evil Kenivel would attempt in traffic. Sure, the
sub-volume control is easy to get to, but I have always been the type to
fiddle with my bass and treble. Now I HAVE used an SPL meter and test
tones to set the parametric EQ to compensate for accoustic annomolies in
the car's cabin (standing waves, cancellation effects, etc.). But beyond
that, I have ALWAYS wanted a measure of control to adjust tonal
characteristics for each song (if even bass and treble controls). That's
why I use this 7 band Clarion EQ.


It's too bad that we can encode EQ settings in the header info of MP3 files.
The headunit would then read the info when it loads each file, make the EQ
adjustments specified, and, presto, every song is played at the perfect
settings. Obviously, it would take time and effort to note the sound
quality of each song, keep track of changes and then reburn the CD --
probably many times. Even so, I would be willing to do the work to make the
"perfect:" CD for my car and ears.

Just a thought.

PD

"MOSFET" wrote in message
...
Since this Alpine unit has EXTENSIVE EQ features built in, it might occur
to some of you that a dash mounted EQ is unecessary. But to anyone who
has owned an Alpine with the Bass Engine Pro feature, the reasons are
OBVIOUS! In fact, I decided to get a dash mounted EQ only AFTER I got the
9853. THERE ARE NO BASS AND TREBLE CONTROLS ON THIS UNIT!!!! And to
operate any of the EQ functions, you have to navigate through about 20
menus, a feat only Evil Kenivel would attempt in traffic. Sure, the
sub-volume control is easy to get to, but I have always been the type to
fiddle with my bass and treble. Now I HAVE used an SPL meter and test
tones to set the parametric EQ to compensate for accoustic annomolies in
the car's cabin (standing waves, cancellation effects, etc.). But beyond
that, I have ALWAYS wanted a measure of control to adjust tonal
characteristics for each song (if even bass and treble controls). That's
why I use this 7 band Clarion EQ.

MOSFET


You should write to Alpine and tell them that. Car audio companies always
have been and always will be in stiff competition with the car makers, whose
cars mostly come with head units that qualify as halfway decent. I know
that's not saying much, but stock radios are far better than they were 20
years ago, and this has had a huge impact on the aftermarket business. At
least in my opinion, companies like Alpine should listen up about what
people want. It won't help your situation now, but maybe for your next
purchase....

You should write to Alpine and tell them that. Car audio companies always
have been and always will be in stiff competition with the car makers,
whose cars mostly come with head units that qualify as halfway decent.

That's a really good idea, I think I will do that. I mean, I really do look
at this as sort of a design flaw. Although adjusting the EQ bands is
complicated and should never be attempted while driving, I think Alpine
tried to get around this by providing preset EQ curves ("Rock", "Jazz",
"Country", "Easy Listening", etc.). These preset curves ARE more easily
accessible, the problem is I don't like any of them. Also, sometimes I just
want to adjust something (the treble, for instance) just a bit and don't
want to have to try completely different EQ curves.

Frankly, I would have simply included a traditional bass and treble control
along with the other EQ features. I know the Alpine engineers must have
thought this was redundant, but apparently they failed to take into account
users like me.

MOSFET

It's too bad that we can encode EQ settings in the header info of MP3
files. The headunit would then read the info when it loads each file,
make the EQ adjustments specified, and, presto, every song is played at
the perfect settings.

Yes, that would be SO great. And I would certainly take the time to make at
least some rudimentary adjustments. I mean, there are songs that I ALWAYS
have to turn the bass up or down. It would be so nice if before I burned a
disc I could make these adjustments to the MP3 file.

MOSFET

yeah looks neat-o..i'm sure most 9-10yr. olds be very impressed..lol

That definitely is bright as heck, I'm surprised it doesn't get to you
after a while...

Looks awesome though!


--
jlaine

Just curious, but if I remember correctly from your previous posts, you have
an Alpine unit with the Bass Engine Pro. If so, doesn't that HU have a 5
band parametric EQ ? So why would you want to install a low end (and broken)
Clarion EQ in the first place and go through all the hassle of making the
LED's work like they are supposed to from the get go ? Everyone has a reason
for doing what they do, so I'm just curious, and not really critical, as
I've done similar things like this too.

-RG

"MOSFET" wrote in message
...
Thanks to everyone who helped on that project of mine.

I finally found time to rewire those LED's in parallel (not series) and I
used a SINGLE 100 ohm resistor with the five 3.7 volt LED's and MAN IS IT
BRIGHT!!!! It LOOKS SOOOOOOO COOL right below my Alpine 9853 which has a
blue display and blue "Alpine crystals". It now it stays bright ALL THE
TIME!

I just took a couple of pictures you can see at:
http://www428.pair.com/mosfet/mtx.html

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED ME!!!

MOSFET

OK, forget it as I just read thru the rest of the thread and saw you
reasons. Nothing like the old analog controls, eh ?

-RG

"RG" wrote in message
...
Just curious, but if I remember correctly from your previous posts, you
have an Alpine unit with the Bass Engine Pro. If so, doesn't that HU have
a 5 band parametric EQ ? So why would you want to install a low end (and
broken) Clarion EQ in the first place and go through all the hassle of
making the LED's work like they are supposed to from the get go ? Everyone
has a reason for doing what they do, so I'm just curious, and not really
critical, as I've done similar things like this too.

-RG

"MOSFET" wrote in message
...
Thanks to everyone who helped on that project of mine.

I finally found time to rewire those LED's in parallel (not series) and I
used a SINGLE 100 ohm resistor with the five 3.7 volt LED's and MAN IS IT
BRIGHT!!!! It LOOKS SOOOOOOO COOL right below my Alpine 9853 which has a
blue display and blue "Alpine crystals". It now it stays bright ALL THE
TIME!

I just took a couple of pictures you can see at:
http://www428.pair.com/mosfet/mtx.html

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED ME!!!

MOSFET

Well ... can't you already do this with itunes and an IPOD ? It's not really
that hard to do from a technical standpoint. But it does have drawbacks.
Plus, it is pretty easy to EQ recordings using several software programs for
the particular environment you will play them back in. Just takes time and
some skill. Some of the MP3's I've downloaded by budding "recording
engineers" have sounded pretty over EQ'd, if you know what I mean.

-RG

"Phonedude" wrote in message
news:XrxUf.11952$wD1.6307@trnddc02...

"MOSFET" wrote in message
...
Since this Alpine unit has EXTENSIVE EQ features built in, it might occur
to some of you that a dash mounted EQ is unecessary. But to anyone who
has owned an Alpine with the Bass Engine Pro feature, the reasons are
OBVIOUS! In fact, I decided to get a dash mounted EQ only AFTER I got the
9853. THERE ARE NO BASS AND TREBLE CONTROLS ON THIS UNIT!!!! And to
operate any of the EQ functions, you have to navigate through about 20
menus, a feat only Evil Kenivel would attempt in traffic. Sure, the
sub-volume control is easy to get to, but I have always been the type to
fiddle with my bass and treble. Now I HAVE used an SPL meter and test
tones to set the parametric EQ to compensate for accoustic annomolies in
the car's cabin (standing waves, cancellation effects, etc.). But
beyond that, I have ALWAYS wanted a measure of control to adjust tonal
characteristics for each song (if even bass and treble controls). That's
why I use this 7 band Clarion EQ.


It's too bad that we can encode EQ settings in the header info of MP3
files. The headunit would then read the info when it loads each file, make
the EQ adjustments specified, and, presto, every song is played at the
perfect settings. Obviously, it would take time and effort to note the
sound quality of each song, keep track of changes and then reburn the
CD -- probably many times. Even so, I would be willing to do the work to
make the "perfect:" CD for my car and ears.

Just a thought.

PD