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#1
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little help with picking out an amp..
Hello. I have a 1999 ford ranger.. i have 1 power acoustik FUBR-10
subwoofer and i would like to put it in my truck.. its 1800watts max 600watts rms. i was wondering what kind of amp would be the best to get the most out of this sub. my price range is about 200. i could go a little higher is 100% needed but i would prefer not too. Thanks. sub: http://www.poweracoustik.com/fubr.html |
#2
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wrote in message ups.com... Hello. I have a 1999 ford ranger.. i have 1 power acoustik FUBR-10 subwoofer and i would like to put it in my truck.. its 1800watts max 600watts rms. i was wondering what kind of amp would be the best to get the most out of this sub. my price range is about 200. i could go a little higher is 100% needed but i would prefer not too. Thanks. If you don't mind used, Ebay is the way to go here. With new, I'm afraid you just can't get buy much muscle with $200. A nice 500-750 watt class D amp would do the trick. I think you can find those used on Ebay within your price range. MOSFET |
#3
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only 500-700? is that rms? know of any good brands/models i should look
for.. |
#4
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"bugsfix" wrote in message oups.com... only 500-700? is that rms? know of any good brands/models i should look for.. Yes, 500-750 watts RMS. Trust me, that's a lot!!! As far as brands, there are a million and everyone has their favorites. Just make sure it is not some "mystery brand" that no one has ever heard of. MOSFET |
#5
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Im sure that sub can only prob. handle 500 RMS at the most. Many of
specs listed are overblown. A true 700 watt RMS amp is a whole HELL of a lot of power. |
#6
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any recommend brands? not sure whats good and whats not...
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#7
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Alpine, Hifonics, MTX, Rockford Fosgate, etc.
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#8
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Hello again
I was told this will work... http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/MTX-M...oductDetail.do Will it? |
#9
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#10
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oh nice thanks...think i will get this instead... was also wondering
how do i check to see if i need a new deck or not? i took some pics of my current deck.. would you like me to send them toyou? |
#11
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also had a question.. this says it can do 800 watts 1 x 2ohm's but can
it handle the max power 1800 watts of the sub? or does that not matter. |
#13
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well i dont see any problem buying online if its new and the same one
or better then in the store |
#14
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bugsfix wrote:
also had a question.. this says it can do 800 watts 1 x 2ohm's but can it handle the max power 1800 watts of the sub? or does that not matter. Try to pay closer attention to the responses you are getting ... max power ratings are meaningless, they are just a lame sales tactic. Also ... subs do not "have" power, they can only use it. You can run a sub rated to handle 1000W with a 50W amplifier. The only true concern is making sure you don't put a lower impedance load on the amp then it is designed to handle (if the amp says it can do 800 x 1 @ 2ohm, don't try to run it at 1ohm) -- Dan Snooks |
#15
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Yeah, you will be ok. MAX power means nothing. Just a gimic. Get that
amp you will be fine. Whats the model of your current head unit? |
#16
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#17
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Need some help.. i went and bought a Q-Logic QLT-.6510SBE 10 Inch Sub
Truck Box and it came with a neg/pos wire but my sub has 2 neg/pos outputs.. how do i wire this thing up.. thanks |
#18
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In article .com,
"bugsfix" wrote: Need some help.. i went and bought a Q-Logic QLT-.6510SBE 10 Inch Sub Truck Box and it came with a neg/pos wire but my sub has 2 neg/pos outputs.. how do i wire this thing up.. thanks Depends. What impedance are the coils of your sub? What impedance are you trying to present to your amplifier? Or even better, give us the published specs of both your amplifier and sub. Someone will be able to help, except the mmdir thing of course. -- Cyrus *coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough* |
#19
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ok published specs are the following...
Amp * Amplifier Type: Mono * RMS Power: 400W x 1 @ 4 ohms * THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: 2% * RMS Power: 800W x 1 @ 2 ohms * Speaker Level Inputs: Yes * Preamp Outputs: Yes * Built-In Crossovers: LP * Bass Boost: 0-18 dB * Frequency Response: 20-200 Hz * Signal to Noise Ratio: 100 dB * Fuse Rating: 3 x 25 amps And Sub * 1800 watts power handling * 600 Watts RMS * 160 oz. magnet * 2" ASV voice coil * SPL 90 dB * Fs: 40.1 Hz * Vas: 0.81 cu.ft. * Qms: 3.47 * Qes: 0.60 * Qts: 0.5124 * Xmax: 0.6" * Sealed box: .5 cu. Ft. * Ported box: 1.15 cu.. Ft. * Tuning: 39 Hz * Port Size: 3"(dia)x8.6"(length) * # of ports:1 |
#20
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Do you mean you have a dual voice coil (DVC) sub? what kind of amp are you
running to it? is it just the one speaker or do you have 2 your putting in. Need more input: # 5 alive! -- The Clown Prince of Car Stereo "bugsfix" wrote in message oups.com... Need some help.. i went and bought a Q-Logic QLT-.6510SBE 10 Inch Sub Truck Box and it came with a neg/pos wire but my sub has 2 neg/pos outputs.. how do i wire this thing up.. thanks |
#21
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you can wire to 2 positives and the 2 negatives together to the sub
-- The Clown Prince of Car Stereo "bugsfix" wrote in message oups.com... ok published specs are the following... Amp * Amplifier Type: Mono * RMS Power: 400W x 1 @ 4 ohms * THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: 2% * RMS Power: 800W x 1 @ 2 ohms * Speaker Level Inputs: Yes * Preamp Outputs: Yes * Built-In Crossovers: LP * Bass Boost: 0-18 dB * Frequency Response: 20-200 Hz * Signal to Noise Ratio: 100 dB * Fuse Rating: 3 x 25 amps And Sub * 1800 watts power handling * 600 Watts RMS * 160 oz. magnet * 2" ASV voice coil * SPL 90 dB * Fs: 40.1 Hz * Vas: 0.81 cu.ft. * Qms: 3.47 * Qes: 0.60 * Qts: 0.5124 * Xmax: 0.6" * Sealed box: .5 cu. Ft. * Ported box: 1.15 cu.. Ft. * Tuning: 39 Hz * Port Size: 3"(dia)x8.6"(length) * # of ports:1 |
#22
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posted the sub and amp specs above.. im just hookinh up 1 amp and 1
sub. yes i have a DVC sub. the amp is MTX Audio Thunder801D |
#23
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got a diagram.. dont know exactly what you mean.. but i also have to
wire it up in the box first and im not sure how to do that. |
#24
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In article .com,
"bugsfix" wrote: ok published specs are the following... Amp * Amplifier Type: Mono * RMS Power: 400W x 1 @ 4 ohms * THD at 4-Ohm RMS Power: 2% * RMS Power: 800W x 1 @ 2 ohms * Speaker Level Inputs: Yes * Preamp Outputs: Yes * Built-In Crossovers: LP * Bass Boost: 0-18 dB * Frequency Response: 20-200 Hz * Signal to Noise Ratio: 100 dB * Fuse Rating: 3 x 25 amps And Sub * 1800 watts power handling * 600 Watts RMS * 160 oz. magnet * 2" ASV voice coil * SPL 90 dB * Fs: 40.1 Hz * Vas: 0.81 cu.ft. * Qms: 3.47 * Qes: 0.60 * Qts: 0.5124 * Xmax: 0.6" * Sealed box: .5 cu. Ft. * Ported box: 1.15 cu.. Ft. * Tuning: 39 Hz * Port Size: 3"(dia)x8.6"(length) * # of ports:1 hmm The sub specs don't list impedance(s). That will determine how you can wire it to your box/amplifier. FYI In the future it may be helpful to quote posts as its easier to follow. -- Cyrus *coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough* |
#26
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try this and see if it works. it's crude though
http://mysite.verizon.net/harnesses_etc/ebay/sub.jpg -- The Clown Prince of Car Stereo "bugsfix" wrote in message oups.com... got a diagram.. dont know exactly what you mean.. but i also have to wire it up in the box first and im not sure how to do that. |
#27
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Thanks.. what kind of wire should i use?
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#28
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The bigger the better. but 10-12 gauge should be fine.
-- The Clown Prince of Car Stereo "bugsfix" wrote in message ups.com... Thanks.. what kind of wire should i use? |
#29
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In article .com,
"bugsfix" wrote: according to best buy website.. Impedance Dual 4 ohms In that case, to give you a final 2ohm load you would parallel the 2 coils. This may help: http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/Tech...CoilWiring.pdf hth, -- Cyrus *coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough* |
#31
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where do i find ends like this.. these ends were on the wire that came
with the box and they connect to the metal prongs in the box.. so if im going to buy new wire i guess i should get some of these ends.. Thanks.. http://www.geocities.com/bugsfixpaypal/pics/ends.JPG |
#32
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In article . com,
"bugsfix" wrote: where do i find ends like this.. these ends were on the wire that came with the box and they connect to the metal prongs in the box.. so if im going to buy new wire i guess i should get some of these ends.. Thanks.. http://www.geocities.com/bugsfixpaypal/pics/ends.JPG Site temporarily down. Without looking at any of it. When I've dealt with plastic enclosure terminals before, loosening the nuts on the bolts that thread through the plastic and using crimp-on ring terminals to new wire has worked. hth, -- Cyrus *coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough* |
#33
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also got these
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1051826174162 does anyone thing i will need a capacitor for the amp for the sub... Thanks.. later |
#34
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well.. i got the amp http://www.cardomain.com/item/MTX801D and the sub
http://www.poweracoustik.com/fubr.html fubr-10... well the amp blew the sub so does anyone know of a 10"(so i dont have to get another box) that can easily handle the power of this amp. im talking like 800-1000RMS watts min.. i really really dont wanna blow another sub.. Thanks |
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