I'm going to be getting a new car and puting an aftermarket deck
powering the four inside speakers (no seperate amp for them). I've
designed a ported box to put a 'Jensen KS210' Dual Voice Coil sub,
powered by a JBL Audio BP150.1 amplifier
(http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Ow...nual/bp_om.pdf). I
have a few questions...

1) This amp has four outputs, which two should I use since I'm powering
1 sub to 2ohms (already know how to wire that)?

2) Can someone please explain the basics of Input Sensitivity?

3) Something I've noticed, is that some vehicles put out 12 Volts,
while some put out 14 (or so)... The specs on this amp say nothing
about that, will it be alright if the voltage is the higher of the two?

4)Lastly, and maybe the most complicated, what does it mean to be out
of phase? I understand absolutely NOTHING about this...

Thank you for any help!!

~Mister.Lull

I'm going to be getting a new car and puting an aftermarket deck
powering the four inside speakers (no seperate amp for them). I've
designed a ported box to put a 'Jensen KS210' Dual Voice Coil sub,
powered by a JBL Audio BP150.1 amplifier
(http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Ow...nual/bp_om.pdf). I
have a few questions...

1) This amp has four outputs, which two should I use since I'm powering
1 sub to 2ohms (already know how to wire that)?

It should say in the manual.


2) Can someone please explain the basics of Input Sensitivity?

www.installer.com/tech/gains.html


3) Something I've noticed, is that some vehicles put out 12 Volts,
while some put out 14 (or so)... The specs on this amp say nothing
about that, will it be alright if the voltage is the higher of the two?

If your vehicle is only at 12 volts when the engine is on, then it's time to
take it in to the shop.


4)Lastly, and maybe the most complicated, what does it mean to be out
of phase? I understand absolutely NOTHING about this...

You don't have to worry about this since you only have one sub.

Thank you for the quick reply... But regarding the outputs; it doesn't
say in the manual (that I could find), that's why I included a link to
the pdf file. Could you possibly take a look? Maybe you won't have
to, all it says about that is this:

"Although these amplifiers have a single channel, duplicate posotive
and negative connectors are provided to facilitate the connection of
multiple woofers."

Is that supposed to tell me something that I'm missing?

Thanks again,

~Mister.Lull

I am glad that I apparently don't have to worry about phase. That
doesn't have anything to do with ports?

~Mister.Lull

you do have to worry about phase with a dual voice coil
are you sure it's 4 outputs? or 4 terminals (2 outputs). That amp I believe
is a mono amp which should only have one output. it may have 2 pair of
outputs but there tied together internally.
So you can either put each set of voice coils to each pair of terminals. or
parallel the voice coils to 2 ohm and just use one set of + and - on the amp

"Mister.Lull" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am glad that I apparently don't have to worry about phase. That
doesn't have anything to do with ports?

~Mister.Lull

"3) Something I've noticed, is that some vehicles put out 12 Volts, while
some put out 14 (or so)..."

12 volts when the car isn't running and "about" 14 volts when the car IS
running.

Tony


--
2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition
Eclipse CD8454 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and ZX500 Amplifiers,
Phoenix Gold EQ-232 30-Band EQ, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and
Focal 130HCs For Rear Fill, 2 Soundstream EXACT10s In Aperiodic Enclosure

2001 Chevy S10 ZR2
Pioneer DEH-P9600MP Head Unit, Phoenix Gold Ti500.4 Amp, Focal 165HC
Speakers & Image Dynamics ID8 D4 v.3 Sub

Yes, of coarse Joe.ker is right... 2 outputs (equaling 4 terminals).
I'm going to assume that you're also right about being able to hook up
the + and - to either set. It would make sense that way since it IS
only a one channel amp... Thanks!

Also, thanks to Tony F, I didn't know that about the electrical system
of automobiles...

~Mister.Lull

"MZ" wrote in message
...
I'm going to be getting a new car and puting an aftermarket deck
powering the four inside speakers (no seperate amp for them). I've
designed a ported box to put a 'Jensen KS210' Dual Voice Coil sub,
powered by a JBL Audio BP150.1 amplifier
(http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Ow...nual/bp_om.pdf). I
have a few questions...

1) This amp has four outputs, which two should I use since I'm powering
1 sub to 2ohms (already know how to wire that)?

It should say in the manual.

Correct!



2) Can someone please explain the basics of Input Sensitivity?

www.installer.com/tech/gains.html


Good link



3) Something I've noticed, is that some vehicles put out 12 Volts,
while some put out 14 (or so)... The specs on this amp say nothing
about that, will it be alright if the voltage is the higher of the two?

If your vehicle is only at 12 volts when the engine is on, then it's time
to take it in to the shop.

A bit vauge but correct, while the motors running the altenator should be
pumping at least 13.2 volts (up to 13.9s okay) into your system. The ratings
are just for yoru info, not really that important, only in case soem
numbskull deceides to run a new amp in his 6volt Pommie ****box or in a
truck wich runs 24volts.


4)Lastly, and maybe the most complicated, what does it mean to be out
of phase? I understand absolutely NOTHING about this...

You don't have to worry about this since you only have one sub.

Waaaay off the mark on this one. ALL speakers require to be in phase other
wise you will lose all your mid bass and the system will sound very muddy.

Basically check that ALL +ves and -ves are correct. THis way when a bass
note is produced ALL the speakers will travel in the same direction creating
a nicer note. (Or thump depending on yoru volume levels I suppose.)

If your vehicle is only at 12 volts when the engine is on, then it's time
to take it in to the shop.

A bit vauge but correct, while the motors running the altenator should be
pumping at least 13.2 volts (up to 13.9s okay) into your system. The
ratings are just for yoru info, not really that important, only in case
soem numbskull deceides to run a new amp in his 6volt Pommie ****box or in
a truck wich runs 24volts.

Alternators often run as high as 14.5 volts, which is perfectly normal.



4)Lastly, and maybe the most complicated, what does it mean to be out
of phase? I understand absolutely NOTHING about this...

You don't have to worry about this since you only have one sub.

Waaaay off the mark on this one. ALL speakers require to be in phase
other wise you will lose all your mid bass and the system will sound very
muddy.

I'm afraid you're the one off the mark here. First of all, not all speakers
need to be wired in phase with other speakers. That's not to say that left
and right shouldn't be in phase, or that two subs shouldn't be in phase -
indeed, they should. That's why I said with only one sub he doesn't have to
worry about it. But switching the phase is often recommended with
subwoofers. In fact, some head units even have a phase selector switch
allowing you to reverse the subwoofer's phase relative to the other speakers
in the vehicle (eg. some Eclipse HUs). Also, it's customary for the
crossovers that come with component sets to actually INVERT the phase of the
tweeters relative to the mids (this is mostly done due to the phase shift
associated with overlapping 12dB/oct filters, which tends to be close to 180
degrees). Some component sets even have a phase jumper or switch in the
crossover (eg. Polk's older speakers). Manufacturers often recommend
reversing the tweeter leads when the tweeters are mounted far from the
woofers, like in a door/dash installation. Similarly, the distance from the
subwoofer to the inside of the car, and perhaps more importantly, the phase
shift associated with the low pass filter on the sub, often warrants
reversing the leads.

So his best bet is to simply try it wired both ways and see which way he
likes it.

Wait, wait, wait... You guys are talking about switching the + and -
wires? Which ones?
a) The preamped outs from the HU?
b) The preamped ins on the amp?
c) The wires somewhere between the amp and sub?

"Mister.Lull" wrote in message
ups.com...
Wait, wait, wait... You guys are talking about switching the + and -
wires? Which ones?
a) The preamped outs from the HU?
b) The preamped ins on the amp?
c) The wires somewhere between the amp and sub?


The two wires that end up going into the sub box.

Oh, well that's easy to mess around with. I might just have to play
with that once everything's up and running! Thanks!

P.S. Does this sound like an alright setup for someone who isn't an
audio purist, but wants a pretty decent system? Any (low priced)
recommendations?