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Default Help with alternator/battery upgrade question

I'm about to perform some major upgrades on my stereo and was wondering
if anyone here can comment on the need for an upgraded
battery/alternator in the 2003 Chrysler Sebring GTC. Below is the
hardware I'll be running:

Alpine CDA-7894 Receiver
- Capable of 4x60W (4x27W RMS)
- I will be only powering the front components off this

Alpine 3552 Amplifier
- Capable of 4x30W
- I will be bridging to rears (2x60W)

Hifonics "Brutus" BX1500D
- Capable of 1000Wx1 @ 2ohms
- I will be powering the subs with 500W @ 4ohms

Oz Elite Component Speakers
- 6.5" in front doors
- 3" in kick panels (haven't made yet)
- 1" by vents
- 5.25" in rear side panels
- I haven't firmly decided one way or another about placement of these
speakers. The downside of this configuration is that there's no
tweeters in the rear. It may be hard finding another set of tweeters
though as these are not made anymore.

Resonant Engineering RE-10
- Quantity: 3
- Wired @ 4ohms
- Enclosure ported at 32hz

Omnifi (Rockford Fosgate) DMP1 MP3 Player
- Upgraded hard drive to 40GB

It would even be helpful if anyone knows where to find information on
what the stock alternator puts out (wattage) and what the car uses so I
can get an idea of what I'm working with to begin with.

I've already considered putting in a 1 farad capacitor to help with the
heavy bass hits, but if I'm pulling more power than the car is
generating on a consistent basis then the cap is worthless.

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Bruce Chang
 
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wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm about to perform some major upgrades on my stereo and was wondering
if anyone here can comment on the need for an upgraded
battery/alternator in the 2003 Chrysler Sebring GTC. Below is the
hardware I'll be running:

Alpine CDA-7894 Receiver
- Capable of 4x60W (4x27W RMS)
- I will be only powering the front components off this

Alpine 3552 Amplifier
- Capable of 4x30W
- I will be bridging to rears (2x60W)

Hifonics "Brutus" BX1500D
- Capable of 1000Wx1 @ 2ohms
- I will be powering the subs with 500W @ 4ohms

Oz Elite Component Speakers
- 6.5" in front doors
- 3" in kick panels (haven't made yet)
- 1" by vents
- 5.25" in rear side panels
- I haven't firmly decided one way or another about placement of these
speakers. The downside of this configuration is that there's no
tweeters in the rear. It may be hard finding another set of tweeters
though as these are not made anymore.

Resonant Engineering RE-10
- Quantity: 3
- Wired @ 4ohms
- Enclosure ported at 32hz

Omnifi (Rockford Fosgate) DMP1 MP3 Player
- Upgraded hard drive to 40GB

It would even be helpful if anyone knows where to find information on
what the stock alternator puts out (wattage) and what the car uses so I
can get an idea of what I'm working with to begin with.

I've already considered putting in a 1 farad capacitor to help with the
heavy bass hits, but if I'm pulling more power than the car is
generating on a consistent basis then the cap is worthless.


You should be able to call any Autozone and ask them for a stock alternator.
It should say on their screen what the stock replacement alternator puts
out. That should be close enough.

-Bruce


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Chris Mullins
 
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It won't hurt to upgrade but if you're not hitting serious SPL i don't think
you'll really need to. if you do decide to upgrade there's a website,
www.excessiveamperage.com they quoted me about $300 for a 200A alt, not too
bad at all from what i've seen. also, it might help to simply upgrade your
big 3 before footing the bill for a new alt or yellow top battery.



wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm about to perform some major upgrades on my stereo and was wondering
if anyone here can comment on the need for an upgraded
battery/alternator in the 2003 Chrysler Sebring GTC. Below is the
hardware I'll be running:

Alpine CDA-7894 Receiver
- Capable of 4x60W (4x27W RMS)
- I will be only powering the front components off this

Alpine 3552 Amplifier
- Capable of 4x30W
- I will be bridging to rears (2x60W)

Hifonics "Brutus" BX1500D
- Capable of 1000Wx1 @ 2ohms
- I will be powering the subs with 500W @ 4ohms

Oz Elite Component Speakers
- 6.5" in front doors
- 3" in kick panels (haven't made yet)
- 1" by vents
- 5.25" in rear side panels
- I haven't firmly decided one way or another about placement of these
speakers. The downside of this configuration is that there's no
tweeters in the rear. It may be hard finding another set of tweeters
though as these are not made anymore.

Resonant Engineering RE-10
- Quantity: 3
- Wired @ 4ohms
- Enclosure ported at 32hz

Omnifi (Rockford Fosgate) DMP1 MP3 Player
- Upgraded hard drive to 40GB

It would even be helpful if anyone knows where to find information on
what the stock alternator puts out (wattage) and what the car uses so I
can get an idea of what I'm working with to begin with.

I've already considered putting in a 1 farad capacitor to help with the
heavy bass hits, but if I'm pulling more power than the car is
generating on a consistent basis then the cap is worthless.



  #4   Report Post  
 
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Ok, I'm having trouble figuring out what you mean by upgrading my "big
3". What do you mean?

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Chris Mullins
 
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http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...=5;t=007801;p=

see if that'll work, probably have to copy/paste,
if it doesn't, go to it from here
http://www.teamsploud.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2


wrote in message
oups.com...
Ok, I'm having trouble figuring out what you mean by upgrading my "big
3". What do you mean?





  #6   Report Post  
 
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Excellent! This is just the sort of suggestion I was looking for. I'm
hoping to do the install this weekend. I'll see how everything looks
after the install (whether lights are dimming and such) and probably
plan to add to my "big 3" next weekend.

Again, thanks so much. By the way, in case I end up needing it, can you
suggest a good place to get a yellow top battery or which one I should
look for?

  #7   Report Post  
Chris Mullins
 
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Sorry i have no idea about the yellow tops, somone else can probably help
you out there.


wrote in message
oups.com...
Excellent! This is just the sort of suggestion I was looking for. I'm
hoping to do the install this weekend. I'll see how everything looks
after the install (whether lights are dimming and such) and probably
plan to add to my "big 3" next weekend.

Again, thanks so much. By the way, in case I end up needing it, can you
suggest a good place to get a yellow top battery or which one I should
look for?



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Brandonb
 
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If you've got an Interstate Battery store near you, that would save on
shipping and possibly be less than a car audio shop. There are some you
can get online for good prices, but double-check the shipping as many
times it'll come up to the same price or more than buying locally. They
aren't light. As for which one, just look for the one that matches your
vehicle if you'll be putting it in the stock location. There are many
online places that will tell you the specific one for your car as well.
Keep in mind also that there are other deep-cycle batteries that work
well without spending the cash on a yellow-top, especially in the
typical engine-compartment location where fumes and leakage aren't an issue.

Brandonb


wrote:

Excellent! This is just the sort of suggestion I was looking for. I'm
hoping to do the install this weekend. I'll see how everything looks
after the install (whether lights are dimming and such) and probably
plan to add to my "big 3" next weekend.

Again, thanks so much. By the way, in case I end up needing it, can you
suggest a good place to get a yellow top battery or which one I should
look for?

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