I have just ordered two 400 watt amps, one 4 channel and one 2 channel.
I picked up a set of 6.5 Kenwood components for the front speakers in
the doors. Next on the list is rear 6.5's, thinking of Polk DB650s but
are just a bit more than what I wanted to spend. And a sub, thinking of
a Pioneer 10" 50 dollar sub. Opinions?
My main question is wiring the rca's. I cant see spending more on
wiring than I would on a set of speakers. I am thinking of using RG6
and RCA connectors, 12 guage to run the speakers, 4 guage for power and
ground. Is this enough to handle the load and be decent enough
shielding?

"spongehead" wrote in
oups.com:

I have just ordered two 400 watt amps, one 4 channel and one 2
channel.
I picked up a set of 6.5 Kenwood components for the front speakers in
the doors. Next on the list is rear 6.5's, thinking of Polk DB650s but
are just a bit more than what I wanted to spend. And a sub, thinking
of
a Pioneer 10" 50 dollar sub. Opinions?
My main question is wiring the rca's. I cant see spending more on
wiring than I would on a set of speakers. I am thinking of using RG6
and RCA connectors, 12 guage to run the speakers, 4 guage for power
and
ground. Is this enough to handle the load and be decent enough
shielding?



4 gauge is more than enough for that wattage. 12 guage is good size for
your speaker wire. But I've never used coax cable for audio before. I'd
personally go for some Monster RCA cable, even though it's a little on
the expensive side it's a good investment because you're trying to
guarantee the integrity of the primary signal. Monsters provide a
thicker guage wiring on both positive and negative compared to coax. But
then again, that's a toss up for me. Not sure how well the coax will do.

I searched google and I think I found the sub you are looking at, the
TSW250R. If so, you might want to look he

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=5296

The same sub for about 15 bucks less?

Thismorning I was also looking for a good, low-priced 10'' sub and found
the Cerwin Vega 10'' HED-10DVC. It has similar low-end frequency
response (20hz to 500hz) to the Pioneer you were looking at (20hz to
4.5khz), but is rated for slightly higher wattage and has dual voice
coils. If you wanted to spend a little extra money you could run two of
those at 2ohms stereo on one of your 400W amps and take full advantage
of the power it produces and still have a little power to spare (about
100W). Running them like this would make up for the slighly lower db
rating of the Cerwin's (88db) compared to the Pioneer (90db), and people
usually say that stereo subs are always smoother than a mono sub, not to
mention you'd be moving twice the air. I guess the biggest issue for you
would probably be the enclosure type. The Cerwin is specified for a
sealed enclosure and the Pioneer is specified for both sealed and
ported. Most people like ported enclosures, although I tend to go for
sealed. The link for the Cerwin Vega 10 is he

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=269

Just my opinions, not the ten commandments.

.. I am thinking of using RG6
and RCA connectors, 12 guage to run the speakers, 4 guage for power and
ground. Is this enough to handle the load and be decent enough
shielding?


The shielding of coax is good and would probably be useful in the automotive
environment. But I'll bet most people here would probably tell you that a
good set of twisted-pair RCA's is the best way to go. I am no EE (I'm SURE
someone can explain this better than I), but the twisted-pair configuration
provides common mode rejection and helps reduce any induced noise. I have
ALWAYS gone with twisted-pair RCA's in my car. I have used Monster Cable's
401 XLN with great results, but right now I am using Phoenix Gold ARX series
for the subwoofer and PG Zeropoint series for the mains (all twisted-pair
designed). I can't say Phoenix Gold cables sound better than Monster, BUT I
can say that the PG seems to be built more rugged than the Monster XLN
series (the male connector on the Monster REALLY HOLDS ON TIGHT and if you
pull on the cord to remove it as you are frequently forced to do when
working in tight spaces around the amp, you can damage the cable, the PG is
more rugged and you cannot damage it). My $.02.

MOSFET

he would not be able to run two of the CV subs @ 2ohms. They are dual 4 ohm
voice coils. He could run them at 1ohm(bad idea) or 4 ohms. With those two
pioneers, he could run them in parallel and get a 2 ohm load, and be drawing
400W assuming that the 400W rating he gave was RMS and not Peak. That'd
work out better for power usage.

--
- AUSTIN BECKER
"justin time" wrote in message
...
"spongehead" wrote in
oups.com:

I have just ordered two 400 watt amps, one 4 channel and one 2
channel.
I picked up a set of 6.5 Kenwood components for the front speakers in
the doors. Next on the list is rear 6.5's, thinking of Polk DB650s but
are just a bit more than what I wanted to spend. And a sub, thinking
of
a Pioneer 10" 50 dollar sub. Opinions?
My main question is wiring the rca's. I cant see spending more on
wiring than I would on a set of speakers. I am thinking of using RG6
and RCA connectors, 12 guage to run the speakers, 4 guage for power
and
ground. Is this enough to handle the load and be decent enough
shielding?



4 gauge is more than enough for that wattage. 12 guage is good size for
your speaker wire. But I've never used coax cable for audio before. I'd
personally go for some Monster RCA cable, even though it's a little on
the expensive side it's a good investment because you're trying to
guarantee the integrity of the primary signal. Monsters provide a
thicker guage wiring on both positive and negative compared to coax. But
then again, that's a toss up for me. Not sure how well the coax will do.

I searched google and I think I found the sub you are looking at, the
TSW250R. If so, you might want to look he

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=5296

The same sub for about 15 bucks less?

Thismorning I was also looking for a good, low-priced 10'' sub and found
the Cerwin Vega 10'' HED-10DVC. It has similar low-end frequency
response (20hz to 500hz) to the Pioneer you were looking at (20hz to
4.5khz), but is rated for slightly higher wattage and has dual voice
coils. If you wanted to spend a little extra money you could run two of
those at 2ohms stereo on one of your 400W amps and take full advantage
of the power it produces and still have a little power to spare (about
100W). Running them like this would make up for the slighly lower db
rating of the Cerwin's (88db) compared to the Pioneer (90db), and people
usually say that stereo subs are always smoother than a mono sub, not to
mention you'd be moving twice the air. I guess the biggest issue for you
would probably be the enclosure type. The Cerwin is specified for a
sealed enclosure and the Pioneer is specified for both sealed and
ported. Most people like ported enclosures, although I tend to go for
sealed. The link for the Cerwin Vega 10 is he

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=269

Just my opinions, not the ten commandments.

"Austin Becker" wrote in
news:ss2Kf.808334$xm3.313152@attbi_s21:

he would not be able to run two of the CV subs @ 2ohms. They are dual
4 ohm voice coils. He could run them at 1ohm(bad idea) or 4 ohms.
With those two pioneers, he could run them in parallel and get a 2 ohm
load, and be drawing 400W assuming that the 400W rating he gave was
RMS and not Peak. That'd work out better for power usage.


2 ohms stereo...

justin time wrote in news:Xns976F8787D9DD4nnnnnn@
38.119.106.45:

"Austin Becker" wrote in
news:ss2Kf.808334$xm3.313152@attbi_s21:

he would not be able to run two of the CV subs @ 2ohms. They are dual
4 ohm voice coils. He could run them at 1ohm(bad idea) or 4 ohms.
With those two pioneers, he could run them in parallel and get a 2 ohm
load, and be drawing 400W assuming that the 400W rating he gave was
RMS and not Peak. That'd work out better for power usage.


2 ohms stereo...

Sorry, I should have further explained myself. Most stereo amps that I have
come across support 2 ohm stereo operation. He can config two DVC 4ohm subs
to run 2ohms each on separate stereo channels. And most of the amps I use,
even the cheaper generic amps, do indeed push their stated wattage when you
run them this way.

"Austin Becker" wrote in
news:ss2Kf.808334$xm3.313152@attbi_s21:

he would not be able to run two of the CV subs @ 2ohms. They are dual
4 ohm voice coils. He could run them at 1ohm(bad idea) or 4 ohms.
With those two pioneers, he could run them in parallel and get a 2 ohm
load, and be drawing 400W assuming that the 400W rating he gave was
RMS and not Peak. That'd work out better for power usage.


I almost forgot, there's a 99% chance that the load presented by 2-channel
amp bridged into 2 ohms would smoke it. I've never seen a 2-channel amp
that supported bridging into 2 ohms, but there might be some. It's unlikely
that his does (he didn't state the brand or model).

I've never seen a 2-channel amp
that supported bridging into 2 ohms, but there might be some.

Back in the day, there were many, many stereo amps that supported
low-impedance bridged loads (as low as 1/4 ohm). The reason behind this was
competitions. Classes in both SQ events (IASCA) as well as SPL events (db
Drag, for instance) were based on manufacturer rated 4 ohm impedances.
Obviously, a competitor had an advantage if they could get 1000 watts out of
an amplifier rated at 25 watts X 2. These were called "cheater" amps, and I
use one of these old-school babies to drive my subs, a Soundstream Reference
700. It can handle 1 ohm bridged loads.

MOSFET

"MOSFET" wrote in
:

I've never seen a 2-channel amp
that supported bridging into 2 ohms, but there might be some.

Back in the day, there were many, many stereo amps that supported
low-impedance bridged loads (as low as 1/4 ohm). The reason behind
this was competitions. Classes in both SQ events (IASCA) as well as
SPL events (db Drag, for instance) were based on manufacturer rated 4
ohm impedances. Obviously, a competitor had an advantage if they could
get 1000 watts out of an amplifier rated at 25 watts X 2. These were
called "cheater" amps, and I use one of these old-school babies to
drive my subs, a Soundstream Reference 700. It can handle 1 ohm
bridged loads.

MOSFET




LMAO. That kicks ass and all, but I wish you hadn't told me that. Now I
feel bad because I'm having better dreams of equipment I'll never be able
to afford.

It's a power house, the Soundstream Reference 700 is a monster of power, at
one ohm is also makes a good car heater.




Back in the day, there were many, many stereo amps that supported
low-impedance bridged loads (as low as 1/4 ohm). The reason behind this was
competitions. Classes in both SQ events (IASCA) as well as SPL events (db
Drag, for instance) were based on manufacturer rated 4 ohm impedances.
Obviously, a competitor had an advantage if they could get 1000 watts out of
an amplifier rated at 25 watts X 2. These were called "cheater" amps, and I
use one of these old-school babies to drive my subs, a Soundstream Reference
700. It can handle 1 ohm bridged loads.

MOSFET

"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...


It's a power house, the Soundstream Reference 700 is a monster of power,
at
one ohm is also makes a good car heater.

LOL You are soooo right. It's funny, though, 10 years ago I used to use a
SS Reference 705 (5 channel amp, 50 watts X 4 and 1 X 200 at 4 ohms or 1 X
400 at 2 ohms) and it NEVER got hot. No matter how hard I drove it, it
never got more than luke warm. But this 2 channel amp gets REALLY hot. Of
course, the 705 was much bigger.

MOSFET

Want heat try an older Orion HCCA amp, I think they painted them bright red
so people couldnt see them glow from all of the heat. Not that their GX or SX
line of amps ran much cooler.

LOL You are soooo right. It's funny, though, 10 years ago I used to use a
SS Reference 705 (5 channel amp, 50 watts X 4 and 1 X 200 at 4 ohms or 1 X
400 at 2 ohms) and it NEVER got hot. No matter how hard I drove it, it
never got more than luke warm. But this 2 channel amp gets REALLY hot. Of
course, the 705 was much bigger.

MOSFET

"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...
Want heat try an older Orion HCCA amp,

Those were GREAT amps!! 1/4 ohm stable bridged!!!!!!!!!!!! The HCCA line
of subwoofers were also a classic.

MOSFET

Oh hell ya, My dream amp back in the day was the Orion 2100hcca, just couldn't
afford one back then, in fact couldn't afford half of one back then. However I
have owned the 2150GX, 280GX, 250sx, 275sx and the big old mighty 222sx and
all were great amps. Buying one today just doesn't make sense, now that I can
finally afford one.

I'll tell ya though, car audio is much easier now a days then it was 15-20
years ago. Back then a 500watt amp that you could not feed enough power to,
along with a pair of 100-150 watt subs with no xmax was just a massive system.
The high tech guys had alpine cassette decks with a remote. If your headlights
were dimming to the bass you could always upgrade your alternator from 60amps
to a massive 90 or 100amps, and if that didn't work, you could always get a
gel-cell battery for the trunk for about $400-500 at your local indy 500 race
car shop. lol.


Those were GREAT amps!! 1/4 ohm stable bridged!!!!!!!!!!!! The HCCA line
of subwoofers were also a classic.

MOSFET