I have a Pioneer GM-X924 and I haven't used this thing in four years. I
can't remember what fuses it has, but some 3rd party sites claim it has two
60A fuses in it!!! That sounds pretty doggone high to me! Or is that just
normal for a Class A amp? Pioneer's site has no info on the fuses and mine
is packed away until summertime.

But anyways, whatever the fuses are rated at, and I'll just assume 60A
here... is there some gauge:fuse 'rule' to go by?

Also, I just noticed Pioneer's site says the amp has 2 RCA Outputs (Pass-
Thru)...what are they for? I assume they continue sending passive signal
through the amp...what good is that for?

On Mon, 12 Apr 2004 16:49:18 GMT, Matt Bhame wrote:

I have a Pioneer GM-X924 and I haven't used this thing in four years. I
can't remember what fuses it has, but some 3rd party sites claim it has two
60A fuses in it!!! That sounds pretty doggone high to me! Or is that just
normal for a Class A amp? Pioneer's site has no info on the fuses and mine
is packed away until summertime.

But anyways, whatever the fuses are rated at, and I'll just assume 60A
here... is there some gauge:fuse 'rule' to go by?

Also, I just noticed Pioneer's site says the amp has 2 RCA Outputs (Pass-
Thru)...what are they for? I assume they continue sending passive signal
through the amp...what good is that for?

Yes, the RCA output are for sending a line-level output on to other
amp(s). This might be useful if you just wanted to power your
component speakers with the X924 and wanted to use another amplifier
for the subs.

For a 260-watt class "A" amp, two 60-A fuses sound about right,
especially since the amp is 1-ohm stable. Class "A" amps have very
low efficiency numbers, so they tend to draw a lot of current to make
significant power.

You should be fine with 4-gauge wire to the amp. In short lengths,
the rule of thumb for 4-gauge is that it's good up to 135-150 amperes
of current.

Scott Gardner

Yes, the RCA output are for sending a line-level output on to other
amp(s). This might be useful if you just wanted to power your
component speakers with the X924 and wanted to use another amplifier
for the subs.

For a 260-watt class "A" amp, two 60-A fuses sound about right,
especially since the amp is 1-ohm stable. Class "A" amps have very
low efficiency numbers, so they tend to draw a lot of current to make
significant power.

You should be fine with 4-gauge wire to the amp. In short lengths,
the rule of thumb for 4-gauge is that it's good up to 135-150 amperes
of current.

Why on earth would someone use a class A in a car??

On Mon, 12 Apr 2004 13:57:31 -0400, "MZ"
wrote:

Yes, the RCA output are for sending a line-level output on to other
amp(s). This might be useful if you just wanted to power your
component speakers with the X924 and wanted to use another amplifier
for the subs.

For a 260-watt class "A" amp, two 60-A fuses sound about right,
especially since the amp is 1-ohm stable. Class "A" amps have very
low efficiency numbers, so they tend to draw a lot of current to make
significant power.

You should be fine with 4-gauge wire to the amp. In short lengths,
the rule of thumb for 4-gauge is that it's good up to 135-150 amperes
of current.

Why on earth would someone use a class A in a car??

Beats me - if someone can hear the difference between a good class A
amp and a good class AB amp, the difference is going to be lost inside
a car, anyway.

Yes, the RCA output are for sending a line-level output on to other
amp(s). This might be useful if you just wanted to power your
component speakers with the X924 and wanted to use another amplifier
for the subs.

For a 260-watt class "A" amp, two 60-A fuses sound about right,
especially since the amp is 1-ohm stable. Class "A" amps have very
low efficiency numbers, so they tend to draw a lot of current to make
significant power.

You should be fine with 4-gauge wire to the amp. In short lengths,
the rule of thumb for 4-gauge is that it's good up to 135-150 amperes
of current.

Why on earth would someone use a class A in a car??



Because it's the only Amp I have, pal.
BTW, thanks for responding with an appropriate reply.

Why on earth would someone use a class A in a car??



Because it's the only Amp I have, pal.
BTW, thanks for responding with an appropriate reply.

Scott already responded with a sufficient reply. I was more curious about
why someone would buy one of those for car use. As it is, they're already
questionable for home use.

"Scott Gardner" wrote in message You should be fine
with 4-gauge wire to the amp. In short lengths,
the rule of thumb for 4-gauge is that it's good up to 135-150 amperes
of current.

I have found that 4 gauge is rated for 135 amps in open air. So being
underneath a car hood and shoved through grommets then ran underneath carpet
the wire would no longer be able to dissipate the heat. I have typically
used 100 amp max as my rule of thumb for 4 gauge in a car. 2 gauge is not
that much larger or more expensive in my opinion.

Les

On Mon, 12 Apr 2004 22:55:29 GMT, "Les"
wrote:


"Scott Gardner" wrote in message You should be fine
with 4-gauge wire to the amp. In short lengths,
the rule of thumb for 4-gauge is that it's good up to 135-150 amperes
of current.

I have found that 4 gauge is rated for 135 amps in open air. So being
underneath a car hood and shoved through grommets then ran underneath carpet
the wire would no longer be able to dissipate the heat. I have typically
used 100 amp max as my rule of thumb for 4 gauge in a car. 2 gauge is not
that much larger or more expensive in my opinion.

Les


I think that the amount of time you'd actually be sending 135 amps
through the wire would be very small, but it never hurts to use larger
wire, and you're right - 2-gauge or even 1/0 isn't that much more
expensive.

Scott

"Scott Gardner" wrote in message

I think that the amount of time you'd actually be sending 135 amps
through the wire would be very small,

Very true, but since I do alot of electrical work, both in car and
buildings, I have to caution myself against justifying using underrated wire
even though I know it can easily handle it in situations that it is likely
to see. Like this situation I would be almost positive that it could handle
the load, but must resist the urge to use it.

but it never hurts to use larger
wire, and you're right - 2-gauge or even 1/0 isn't that much more
expensive.

Ya to me it just makes sense to get the appropriate sized wire.
But if you cannot, or don't want too, as long as the wire is properly fused
it doesn't really matter.

Les

their heater is busted?

FHLH

"MZ" wrote in message
...


Why on earth would someone use a class A in a car??

"Scott Gardner" wrote in message

I think that the amount of time you'd actually be sending 135 amps
through the wire would be very small,

Very true, but since I do alot of electrical work, both in car and
buildings, I have to caution myself against justifying using
underrated wire even though I know it can easily handle it in
situations that it is likely to see. Like this situation I would be
almost positive that it could handle the load, but must resist the
urge to use it.

but it never hurts to use larger
wire, and you're right - 2-gauge or even 1/0 isn't that much more
expensive.

Ya to me it just makes sense to get the appropriate sized wire.
But if you cannot, or don't want too, as long as the wire is properly
fused it doesn't really matter.

Les




Let's assume I get a 4gauge...if I wanted to add a sub later, should I run
a 2 or 1/0 first and split it off in a distribution block later whenever I
do get the sub?

Not to come off as an ass, but I doubt that it's class A amp, especially at
those wattages and 1 Ohm load. You realize that normally it will cost you
about $10 to $50 a watt for some true class A amps, and they usally only put
out around 5 to 25.

The class A circuitry they boast is for the low-level side (Pre-amp) side of
the amp.

--
1991 Tornado Red Corrado, CCA Member # 6645
Stereo is a continuous W.I.P.

There are two parts to wisdom:
1) Having a lot to say, and
2) Not saying it.
"Matt Bhame" wrote in message
...
I have a Pioneer GM-X924 and I haven't used this thing in four years. I
can't remember what fuses it has, but some 3rd party sites claim it has
two
60A fuses in it!!! That sounds pretty doggone high to me! Or is that
just
normal for a Class A amp? Pioneer's site has no info on the fuses and
mine
is packed away until summertime.

But anyways, whatever the fuses are rated at, and I'll just assume 60A
here... is there some gauge:fuse 'rule' to go by?

Also, I just noticed Pioneer's site says the amp has 2 RCA Outputs (Pass-
Thru)...what are they for? I assume they continue sending passive signal
through the amp...what good is that for?

Use four gauge if you are running from the battery to the trunk. Remember
that "power" also includes ground, and that should also be four gauge. Don't
forget to insert an in-line fuse six to eight inches from the battery. P.


"Matt Bhame" wrote in message
...
I have a Pioneer GM-X924 and I haven't used this thing in four years. I
can't remember what fuses it has, but some 3rd party sites claim it has
two
60A fuses in it!!! That sounds pretty doggone high to me! Or is that
just
normal for a Class A amp? Pioneer's site has no info on the fuses and
mine
is packed away until summertime.

But anyways, whatever the fuses are rated at, and I'll just assume 60A
here... is there some gauge:fuse 'rule' to go by?

Also, I just noticed Pioneer's site says the amp has 2 RCA Outputs (Pass-
Thru)...what are they for? I assume they continue sending passive signal
through the amp...what good is that for?