I ran my system for ten minutes before the alternator light came on.
I figured the problem was I just fried the old peice of ****
alternator that was there. Now I went to autozone and put a new
alternator in myself and later on had a decent mechanic assure me I
put the part on correctly. The alternator light still was on and the
car was still acting like it should when it is running off of a low
battery. The guy at autozone said that the problem was because all the
wiring in my car was shot to begin with and wouldn't even test my
alternator because he was so sure that I needed to get these
electrical problems fixed. He's probably right because every wire is
greasy and wore out, but nothing is frayed or broken. It could be
still a bad alternator, but I think thats not it. The only problem is
that for some reason I can't get this alternator to charge up the
battery even though the rest of the electrical system is working.
What are some of the first things I should diagnose to attack this
problem and at least salvage a running vehicle? What are some of the
things my sound system could of fried? Has anybody ever experienced
this problem before and what did they replace to get it fixed and
where on the engine are these parts located at?

I think your overlooking one very important aspect. YOUR BATTERY. from the
sounds of it your battery could be the culprit


Mark S
Owner
HondaHopUp.com

(Mark S.) wrote in message ...
I think your overlooking one very important aspect. YOUR BATTERY. from the
sounds of it your battery could be the culprit


Mark S
Owner
HondaHopUp.com

It was the alternator because the color codes on the back were
switched with the new alternator and got me mixed up. The reason the
alternator went out in the first place was 1. it was old 2. it was a
factory 40 amp peice o **** 3. the spacer was missing because my dad
took it off with the obsolete a/c unit.
The belt did not line up on it the entire time so it threw the wheel
bearing out making it where my system just finished frying an already
weak alternator.
A 61 amp alternator with a rachet socket ghetto rigged up to work as a
spacer fixed the problem with a mechanic around who knew what they was
doing. There's probably more to this problem then that. I think there
are some corroded battery cables and bad wiring in my car which is
causing my alternator to work harder then what it should to supply
power to the system and charge the battery. The lesson here I think is
that before you put a system in you should have a new alternator with
a lifetime warranty, fresh cables, and a new battery.