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ChrisB ChrisB is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

Okay, first off don't laugh at me too bad, but the factory alarm in my
1997 Civic EX is starting to act up. I decided to check around and see
what the locals charged to put an aftermarket alarm in. Well, I called
around and was shocked to see that NONE of my local shops do starter
disables any more. Even more shocking was that the labor they charged
was about $100 to $175 just to install the freaking alarm.

I am thinking that since my particular model of Civic is a little higher
on the theft list, I probably should either consider an alarm with
starter disable or a couple of well hidden fuel pump cutoff switches.
What use is an aftermarket alarm going to be to me if the thief gets in,
pops the hood, cuts the siren, then drives off with the car that doesn't
have the starter disable connected?

Maybe I am overly paranoid, but I think those installers are doing a
great disservice to their customers by NOT connecting the starter
disable when they install the alarm and charge $175 (or more) to do it.

On the other hand, I could just replace the Honda factory units, but, I
don't want to pay premium prices for old school technology. After
getting used to hooking my IPOD up to an Alpine head unit, it kind of
makes CD changers and cassette tapes a thing of the past! Plus, I bet I
can install an Alpine head unit and an aftermarket alarm myself for way
less than the cost of the Honda factory radio and alarm module!

Okay rant off, but the bottom line I am trying to get at is can someone
tell me why none of the local installers do starter disables when they
install alarms? Is it because the newer vehicles have chipped keys or
are they just lazy?
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ChrisB ChrisB is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

ruens wrote:
On Fri, 11 Apr 2008 17:31:43 -0500, ChrisB
wrote:

(...)
Okay rant off, but the bottom line I am trying to get at is can someone
tell me why none of the local installers do starter disables when they
install alarms? Is it because the newer vehicles have chipped keys or
are they just lazy?


Hmm.. because most aftermarket car alarms on the market today already
come equiped with a starter disable system?!?!


Yeah, but I had three different installers at different shops tell me
they haven't connected the starter disable in years. When I asked one
of them why, he said there are too many problems when the starter
disable is connected to the vehicle. He even was arrogant enough to say
the alarm was enough to keep the vehicle from getting stolen, even
though the starter disable wasn't connected.

Don't get me wrong, I know an alarm isn't fool-proof, but sheesh, I
can't believe that no one locally utilizes the starter disable feature.
Heck, with a couple of thieves working in tandem, that alarm would
sound for a couple of seconds before the siren wire was cut, then they
could proceed to do what is needed to boost the car without even having
to worry about the alarm system. Even worse, if I know that most of the
shops in my area don't connect the starter disable circuit, I am sure
the thieves know this too! Kind of scary if you think about it.

I haven't installed an alarm since 1993 yet I feel I could competently
connect the starter disable circuit. I am older now, and I hate
twisting into those strange positions required to install an alarm, but,
to ensure I get the features I want, I may have to make an exception!
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Matt Ion Matt Ion is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

I don't get it either - starter kill is relatively simple to connect and
AFAIK almost all alarms still have the feature and probably even include
the relay and harness to make it easy. Usually the toughest part is
determining the right wire to interrupt (although wiring diagrams for
most cars simplifies that), and extracting it from its bundle to make
the connections.

Only times I've ever seen a "problem" with a starter kill relay is when
the install is sloppy and the connections poor, or when it's wired for
fail-secure operation (where it breaks the connection and the alarm
being disarmed re-enables the starter) and the brain dies. A fail-safe
wiring (where the relay makes the connection by default and the alarm
going off breaks it) shouldn't have any issues with the brain dying.

$100-$175 for an install isn't outrageous, if it's a properly-done
install - we're talking fused power wire run right to the battery,
relays on the light flash circuit, power-lock tie-in, brain well-hidden
inside the dash rather than just zap-strapped to the steering column,
etc. A quick'n'dirty install will just tap everything into the
under-dash wiring and will cost a lot less, but also be less reliable
(ie. more easily defeated).


ChrisB wrote:
Okay, first off don't laugh at me too bad, but the factory alarm in my
1997 Civic EX is starting to act up. I decided to check around and see
what the locals charged to put an aftermarket alarm in. Well, I called
around and was shocked to see that NONE of my local shops do starter
disables any more. Even more shocking was that the labor they charged
was about $100 to $175 just to install the freaking alarm.

I am thinking that since my particular model of Civic is a little higher
on the theft list, I probably should either consider an alarm with
starter disable or a couple of well hidden fuel pump cutoff switches.
What use is an aftermarket alarm going to be to me if the thief gets in,
pops the hood, cuts the siren, then drives off with the car that doesn't
have the starter disable connected?

Maybe I am overly paranoid, but I think those installers are doing a
great disservice to their customers by NOT connecting the starter
disable when they install the alarm and charge $175 (or more) to do it.

On the other hand, I could just replace the Honda factory units, but, I
don't want to pay premium prices for old school technology. After
getting used to hooking my IPOD up to an Alpine head unit, it kind of
makes CD changers and cassette tapes a thing of the past! Plus, I bet I
can install an Alpine head unit and an aftermarket alarm myself for way
less than the cost of the Honda factory radio and alarm module!

Okay rant off, but the bottom line I am trying to get at is can someone
tell me why none of the local installers do starter disables when they
install alarms? Is it because the newer vehicles have chipped keys or
are they just lazy?

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ChrisB ChrisB is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

Matt Ion wrote:
I don't get it either - starter kill is relatively simple to connect and
AFAIK almost all alarms still have the feature and probably even include
the relay and harness to make it easy. Usually the toughest part is
determining the right wire to interrupt (although wiring diagrams for
most cars simplifies that), and extracting it from its bundle to make
the connections.

Only times I've ever seen a "problem" with a starter kill relay is when
the install is sloppy and the connections poor, or when it's wired for
fail-secure operation (where it breaks the connection and the alarm
being disarmed re-enables the starter) and the brain dies. A fail-safe
wiring (where the relay makes the connection by default and the alarm
going off breaks it) shouldn't have any issues with the brain dying.

$100-$175 for an install isn't outrageous, if it's a properly-done
install - we're talking fused power wire run right to the battery,
relays on the light flash circuit, power-lock tie-in, brain well-hidden
inside the dash rather than just zap-strapped to the steering column,
etc. A quick'n'dirty install will just tap everything into the
under-dash wiring and will cost a lot less, but also be less reliable
(ie. more easily defeated).


Unfortunately, most of the "professional" installs I have seen from the
local shops have a brain that is easy to find and they will even mount
the valet switch on the steering column. The majority of them are just
tie wrapped to either the steering column, or the factory wiring harness
that runs to the steering column. Very sloppy to say the least!

The last time I installed an alarm, I disassembled the dash, took extra
care to reroute wires, and hid the brain. I used solder and heat shrink
tubing on all my connections and it was extremely difficult to tell
where the brain was due to the fact that all my wires were integrated
into the factory wiring bundles/harnesses/etc. The whole process took
about a day, but it was done right.


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GregS[_3_] GregS[_3_] is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

In article , ruens wrote:
On Sat, 12 Apr 2008 19:49:35 -0500, ChrisB
wrote:

ruens wrote:
On Fri, 11 Apr 2008 17:31:43 -0500, ChrisB
wrote:

(...)
Okay rant off, but the bottom line I am trying to get at is can someone
tell me why none of the local installers do starter disables when they
install alarms? Is it because the newer vehicles have chipped keys or
are they just lazy?

Hmm.. because most aftermarket car alarms on the market today already
come equiped with a starter disable system?!?!


Yeah, but I had three different installers at different shops tell me
they haven't connected the starter disable in years. When I asked one
of them why, he said there are too many problems when the starter
disable is connected to the vehicle. He even was arrogant enough to say
the alarm was enough to keep the vehicle from getting stolen, even
though the starter disable wasn't connected.

Don't get me wrong, I know an alarm isn't fool-proof, but sheesh, I
can't believe that no one locally utilizes the starter disable feature.
Heck, with a couple of thieves working in tandem, that alarm would
sound for a couple of seconds before the siren wire was cut, then they
could proceed to do what is needed to boost the car without even having
to worry about the alarm system. Even worse, if I know that most of the
shops in my area don't connect the starter disable circuit, I am sure
the thieves know this too! Kind of scary if you think about it.

I haven't installed an alarm since 1993 yet I feel I could competently
connect the starter disable circuit. I am older now, and I hate
twisting into those strange positions required to install an alarm, but,
to ensure I get the features I want, I may have to make an exception!


What a bunch of lazy asses. Like I said before most aftermarket alarms
have starter kill system. It's a simple circuit interuption from your
ignition to the starter s-terminal. Do it yourself.


I never even imagined using the starter as a cutoff. I use a fuel pump
cutoff switch in any I installed. Like it was said, you can spend a lot
of time doing it right. I my dad's old Honda, installed a cutout. I put
in a hidden magnetic switch inside the dash. Now all you have to do is put the magnet in
the right spot to get it working. I used a relay inside the engine compartment, and
made a valet jumper for that. For real valet all you have to do is leave that mysterious
magnet in place.

greg


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bob wald bob wald is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

car alarms...lol. are the stupidest people alive.
i see all these car alarm people setting alarms outside stores.when
theyll be back in 10minutes. plus theres CAMERAS in big store parking
lots!!!!!!!

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ChrisB ChrisB is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

bob wald wrote:
car alarms...lol. are the stupidest people alive.
i see all these car alarm people setting alarms outside stores.when
theyll be back in 10minutes. plus theres CAMERAS in big store parking
lots!!!!!!!

How do you suggest protecting a vehicle that is on the top 10 most
stolen list then? A good thief can be off and running with YOUR car in
30 to 60 seconds. Hell, some of the local car thieves even have tow
trucks. Right now they seem to be targeting LS1
Camaros/Firebirds/Trans-Ams, but that could easily change to other vehicles.

Store Cameras.... are you friggin serious? Bwhahahahahahahaha! All
that will do is show the police that someone made off with your car.
Then a few hours later, the police will find it stripped down to the
frame, usually torched.

Insurance - what a joke because they give you the lowest possible dollar
for your total loss. My last vehicle that was declared a total loss
resulted in a check that was $9,000 BELOW blue book.

The club? Ever seen a hacksaw go through a steering wheel? How about a
steering wheel, with the club still attached, left in the parking spot
of the vehicle that had the club on it?

I am open for other suggestions to protect a car on the top 10 most
stolen list. Please give me your infinite wisdom Mister Wald!
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Matt Ion Matt Ion is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

ChrisB wrote:
bob wald wrote:
car alarms...lol. are the stupidest people alive.
i see all these car alarm people setting alarms outside stores.when
theyll be back in 10minutes. plus theres CAMERAS in big store parking
lots!!!!!!!

How do you suggest protecting a vehicle that is on the top 10 most
stolen list then? A good thief can be off and running with YOUR car in
30 to 60 seconds. Hell, some of the local car thieves even have tow
trucks. Right now they seem to be targeting LS1
Camaros/Firebirds/Trans-Ams, but that could easily change to other
vehicles.

Store Cameras.... are you friggin serious? Bwhahahahahahahaha! All
that will do is show the police that someone made off with your car.
Then a few hours later, the police will find it stripped down to the
frame, usually torched.

Insurance - what a joke because they give you the lowest possible dollar
for your total loss. My last vehicle that was declared a total loss
resulted in a check that was $9,000 BELOW blue book.

The club? Ever seen a hacksaw go through a steering wheel? How about a
steering wheel, with the club still attached, left in the parking spot
of the vehicle that had the club on it?

I am open for other suggestions to protect a car on the top 10 most
stolen list. Please give me your infinite wisdom Mister Wald!


Need to enclose the car in a force-field!
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ChrisB ChrisB is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

Matt Ion wrote:
Need to enclose the car in a force-field!

No ****. One of my police officer friends told me how sophisticated the
thieves were regarding the LS1 thefts in the state. He then went on to
tell me how the thieves have tow trucks in the New Orleans area, and
seem as though they are towing vehicles for legitimate reasons.
Uniforms, papers, you name it.

Although I can't stop someone from stealing my car, I want to make the
******* work to take mine! I already have a super stealth car alarm
install planned where the brain won't be where a thief would expect it
to be (unless he feels like disassembling the interior of the car) and I
am thinking of going with a non-traditional method to prevent the
vehicle from running, in addition to the starter interrupt! The only
downside to this is I easily see my install taking close to 16 hours due
to the re-routing of the wires and the not so standard location of the
brain. No shop around here would take on that monumental task, plus it
wouldn't be worth the labor they would charge anyhow!
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Matt Ion Matt Ion is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

ruens wrote:
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 10:22:17 -0500, ChrisB
wrote:

(...)

No ****. One of my police officer friends told me how sophisticated the
thieves were regarding the LS1 thefts in the state. He then went on to
tell me how the thieves have tow trucks in the New Orleans area, and
seem as though they are towing vehicles for legitimate reasons.
Uniforms, papers, you name it.

Although I can't stop someone from stealing my car, I want to make the
******* work to take mine! I already have a super stealth car alarm
install planned where the brain won't be where a thief would expect it
to be (unless he feels like disassembling the interior of the car) and I
am thinking of going with a non-traditional method to prevent the
vehicle from running, in addition to the starter interrupt! The only
downside to this is I easily see my install taking close to 16 hours due
to the re-routing of the wires and the not so standard location of the
brain. No shop around here would take on that monumental task, plus it
wouldn't be worth the labor they would charge anyhow!


In addition to hiding the brain, you should consider a backup battery
and a few backup sirens. A hidden alarm brain alone is useless if the
battery wire is cut or removed.


Could even rig up a decoy/delay - basic tripping of the alarm sets off a
standard, obvious under-hood siren with the intent to scare the would-be
thieves away... cutting power to the alarm initiates a 10-15 second
delay, after which the alarm triggers again off the backup battery,
setting off two or three other hidden sirens (maybe a couple 120dB "pain
generator" piezos inside the the cab, too).



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ChrisB ChrisB is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

ruens wrote:
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 10:22:17 -0500, ChrisB
wrote:

(...)

No ****. One of my police officer friends told me how sophisticated the
thieves were regarding the LS1 thefts in the state. He then went on to
tell me how the thieves have tow trucks in the New Orleans area, and
seem as though they are towing vehicles for legitimate reasons.
Uniforms, papers, you name it.

Although I can't stop someone from stealing my car, I want to make the
******* work to take mine! I already have a super stealth car alarm
install planned where the brain won't be where a thief would expect it
to be (unless he feels like disassembling the interior of the car) and I
am thinking of going with a non-traditional method to prevent the
vehicle from running, in addition to the starter interrupt! The only
downside to this is I easily see my install taking close to 16 hours due
to the re-routing of the wires and the not so standard location of the
brain. No shop around here would take on that monumental task, plus it
wouldn't be worth the labor they would charge anyhow!


In addition to hiding the brain, you should consider a backup battery
and a few backup sirens. A hidden alarm brain alone is useless if the
battery wire is cut or removed.


Oh, I am definitely going with a battery backup! Every alarm I ever
installed had one, so this will be no exception.

I am also going to use a couple of pain generators inside the cabin, as
Matt suggested! That delayed trigger is also a good idea.

Of all the ironies, a friend of mine who works as an installer at Best
Buy has been telling me what I should do! He said that they, Best Buy,
don't do starter disables because they were forced to pay too many tow
charges, yet he told me that I need to disrupt the starter AND something
else (fuel pump and/or ECU) because the starter disable would not stop a
thief from push starting my car! I just find it ironic that he is
making suggestions of how to protect my vehicle yet he doesn't install
those protection features as a "professional" installer.
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GregS[_3_] GregS[_3_] is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

In article , ChrisB wrote:
ruens wrote:
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 10:22:17 -0500, ChrisB
wrote:

(...)

No ****. One of my police officer friends told me how sophisticated the
thieves were regarding the LS1 thefts in the state. He then went on to
tell me how the thieves have tow trucks in the New Orleans area, and
seem as though they are towing vehicles for legitimate reasons.
Uniforms, papers, you name it.

Although I can't stop someone from stealing my car, I want to make the
******* work to take mine! I already have a super stealth car alarm
install planned where the brain won't be where a thief would expect it
to be (unless he feels like disassembling the interior of the car) and I
am thinking of going with a non-traditional method to prevent the
vehicle from running, in addition to the starter interrupt! The only
downside to this is I easily see my install taking close to 16 hours due
to the re-routing of the wires and the not so standard location of the
brain. No shop around here would take on that monumental task, plus it
wouldn't be worth the labor they would charge anyhow!


In addition to hiding the brain, you should consider a backup battery
and a few backup sirens. A hidden alarm brain alone is useless if the
battery wire is cut or removed.


Oh, I am definitely going with a battery backup! Every alarm I ever
installed had one, so this will be no exception.

I am also going to use a couple of pain generators inside the cabin, as
Matt suggested! That delayed trigger is also a good idea.

Of all the ironies, a friend of mine who works as an installer at Best
Buy has been telling me what I should do! He said that they, Best Buy,
don't do starter disables because they were forced to pay too many tow
charges, yet he told me that I need to disrupt the starter AND something
else (fuel pump and/or ECU) because the starter disable would not stop a
thief from push starting my car! I just find it ironic that he is
making suggestions of how to protect my vehicle yet he doesn't install
those protection features as a "professional" installer.


I would not ever disable the starter. It gives the thief
something to do. Creates a larger noise and time delay. Just disable the fuel
or ignition.

greg
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ChrisB ChrisB is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

GregS wrote:
In article , ChrisB wrote:
ruens wrote:
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 10:22:17 -0500, ChrisB
wrote:

(...)

No ****. One of my police officer friends told me how sophisticated the
thieves were regarding the LS1 thefts in the state. He then went on to
tell me how the thieves have tow trucks in the New Orleans area, and
seem as though they are towing vehicles for legitimate reasons.
Uniforms, papers, you name it.

Although I can't stop someone from stealing my car, I want to make the
******* work to take mine! I already have a super stealth car alarm
install planned where the brain won't be where a thief would expect it
to be (unless he feels like disassembling the interior of the car) and I
am thinking of going with a non-traditional method to prevent the
vehicle from running, in addition to the starter interrupt! The only
downside to this is I easily see my install taking close to 16 hours due
to the re-routing of the wires and the not so standard location of the
brain. No shop around here would take on that monumental task, plus it
wouldn't be worth the labor they would charge anyhow!
In addition to hiding the brain, you should consider a backup battery
and a few backup sirens. A hidden alarm brain alone is useless if the
battery wire is cut or removed.

Oh, I am definitely going with a battery backup! Every alarm I ever
installed had one, so this will be no exception.

I am also going to use a couple of pain generators inside the cabin, as
Matt suggested! That delayed trigger is also a good idea.

Of all the ironies, a friend of mine who works as an installer at Best
Buy has been telling me what I should do! He said that they, Best Buy,
don't do starter disables because they were forced to pay too many tow
charges, yet he told me that I need to disrupt the starter AND something
else (fuel pump and/or ECU) because the starter disable would not stop a
thief from push starting my car! I just find it ironic that he is
making suggestions of how to protect my vehicle yet he doesn't install
those protection features as a "professional" installer.


I would not ever disable the starter. It gives the thief
something to do. Creates a larger noise and time delay. Just disable the fuel
or ignition.

greg


That is what I meant by starter kill.... I usually break the ignition
circuit somewhere other than the ignition harness in the steering
column. I am of the opinion that splicing close to the key just gives
the thief the information he needs to hot wire the car! Hell, 15 years
ago I used to base my alarm installs off of the shoddy installs that I
saw other "professionals" do! I am still shocked to see that the
installs today are just as shoddy, except now they don't even disable
the vehicle.

I guess the factory immobilizer circuits are supposed to keep the
vehicles safe..... Oh wait, I almost forgot that the real thieves
already know a way around those too.
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GregS[_3_] GregS[_3_] is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

In article , ChrisB wrote:
GregS wrote:
In article , ChrisB

wrote:
ruens wrote:
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 10:22:17 -0500, ChrisB
wrote:

(...)

No ****. One of my police officer friends told me how sophisticated the
thieves were regarding the LS1 thefts in the state. He then went on to
tell me how the thieves have tow trucks in the New Orleans area, and
seem as though they are towing vehicles for legitimate reasons.
Uniforms, papers, you name it.

Although I can't stop someone from stealing my car, I want to make the
******* work to take mine! I already have a super stealth car alarm
install planned where the brain won't be where a thief would expect it
to be (unless he feels like disassembling the interior of the car) and I
am thinking of going with a non-traditional method to prevent the
vehicle from running, in addition to the starter interrupt! The only
downside to this is I easily see my install taking close to 16 hours due
to the re-routing of the wires and the not so standard location of the
brain. No shop around here would take on that monumental task, plus it
wouldn't be worth the labor they would charge anyhow!
In addition to hiding the brain, you should consider a backup battery
and a few backup sirens. A hidden alarm brain alone is useless if the
battery wire is cut or removed.
Oh, I am definitely going with a battery backup! Every alarm I ever
installed had one, so this will be no exception.

I am also going to use a couple of pain generators inside the cabin, as
Matt suggested! That delayed trigger is also a good idea.

Of all the ironies, a friend of mine who works as an installer at Best
Buy has been telling me what I should do! He said that they, Best Buy,
don't do starter disables because they were forced to pay too many tow
charges, yet he told me that I need to disrupt the starter AND something
else (fuel pump and/or ECU) because the starter disable would not stop a
thief from push starting my car! I just find it ironic that he is
making suggestions of how to protect my vehicle yet he doesn't install
those protection features as a "professional" installer.


I would not ever disable the starter. It gives the thief
something to do. Creates a larger noise and time delay. Just disable the fuel
or ignition.

greg


That is what I meant by starter kill.... I usually break the ignition
circuit somewhere other than the ignition harness in the steering
column. I am of the opinion that splicing close to the key just gives
the thief the information he needs to hot wire the car! Hell, 15 years
ago I used to base my alarm installs off of the shoddy installs that I
saw other "professionals" do! I am still shocked to see that the
installs today are just as shoddy, except now they don't even disable
the vehicle.

I guess the factory immobilizer circuits are supposed to keep the
vehicles safe..... Oh wait, I almost forgot that the real thieves
already know a way around those too.


You should have your insurance reduced when you have a theftproof
device installed. My insurance still has that ever since I installed one
long ago.

greg
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bob wald bob wald is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

hey maybe i can park a car i have that wont run. n ya thiefs will fix it
to steal it.lol



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Matt Ion Matt Ion is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

GregS wrote:
In article , ChrisB wrote:
GregS wrote:
In article , ChrisB

wrote:
ruens wrote:
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 10:22:17 -0500, ChrisB
wrote:

(...)

No ****. One of my police officer friends told me how sophisticated the
thieves were regarding the LS1 thefts in the state. He then went on to
tell me how the thieves have tow trucks in the New Orleans area, and
seem as though they are towing vehicles for legitimate reasons.
Uniforms, papers, you name it.

Although I can't stop someone from stealing my car, I want to make the
******* work to take mine! I already have a super stealth car alarm
install planned where the brain won't be where a thief would expect it
to be (unless he feels like disassembling the interior of the car) and I
am thinking of going with a non-traditional method to prevent the
vehicle from running, in addition to the starter interrupt! The only
downside to this is I easily see my install taking close to 16 hours due
to the re-routing of the wires and the not so standard location of the
brain. No shop around here would take on that monumental task, plus it
wouldn't be worth the labor they would charge anyhow!
In addition to hiding the brain, you should consider a backup battery
and a few backup sirens. A hidden alarm brain alone is useless if the
battery wire is cut or removed.
Oh, I am definitely going with a battery backup! Every alarm I ever
installed had one, so this will be no exception.

I am also going to use a couple of pain generators inside the cabin, as
Matt suggested! That delayed trigger is also a good idea.

Of all the ironies, a friend of mine who works as an installer at Best
Buy has been telling me what I should do! He said that they, Best Buy,
don't do starter disables because they were forced to pay too many tow
charges, yet he told me that I need to disrupt the starter AND something
else (fuel pump and/or ECU) because the starter disable would not stop a
thief from push starting my car! I just find it ironic that he is
making suggestions of how to protect my vehicle yet he doesn't install
those protection features as a "professional" installer.
I would not ever disable the starter. It gives the thief
something to do. Creates a larger noise and time delay. Just disable the fuel
or ignition.

greg

That is what I meant by starter kill.... I usually break the ignition
circuit somewhere other than the ignition harness in the steering
column. I am of the opinion that splicing close to the key just gives
the thief the information he needs to hot wire the car! Hell, 15 years
ago I used to base my alarm installs off of the shoddy installs that I
saw other "professionals" do! I am still shocked to see that the
installs today are just as shoddy, except now they don't even disable
the vehicle.

I guess the factory immobilizer circuits are supposed to keep the
vehicles safe..... Oh wait, I almost forgot that the real thieves
already know a way around those too.


You should have your insurance reduced when you have a theftproof
device installed. My insurance still has that ever since I installed one
long ago.


Mine as well, although they require that it be a passive-arm device (so
you can't "forget" to activate it). Whether you believe it's effective
or not, everyone who has an alarm with an immobilizer of some sort
should INSIST that the installer connect it, as I believe most insurance
companies will give a discount for it.
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ChrisB ChrisB is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

bob wald wrote:
hey maybe i can park a car i have that wont run. n ya thiefs will fix it
to steal it.lol

Either that or your Sherwood system from the early 90s will send them
running the other way.
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bob wald bob wald is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

oh i still got my SHERWOOD xat 3000..
or 3400. not going to look now.
i'm waiting to get a car worthy of such greatness.....
i might start looking for a used porshe utility vehicle. that some
wealthy guy drove it around his house til he got tired.
every1 knows porshe is #1 in the world...
i never owned 1 yet.

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ChrisB ChrisB is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

bob wald wrote:
oh i still got my SHERWOOD xat 3000..
or 3400. not going to look now.
i'm waiting to get a car worthy of such greatness.....
i might start looking for a used porshe utility vehicle. that some
wealthy guy drove it around his house til he got tired.
every1 knows porshe is #1 in the world...
i never owned 1 yet.

I wish you luck on the Porsche! One of my friends, an engineer,
purchased a restored early 80s 911, and he still ended up dumping over
12k into it to get it running right. After five speeding tickets in one
month, his wife started nagging him to sell it.
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bob wald bob wald is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

sports car insurance for that musta been ''killer''.....
thats why i'm not looking for a sports car porsche....



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bob wald bob wald is offline
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Default Car alarm installers rant

having a porsche.tell ya friend its knowing its fast not just showing
its fast.lol
he'll get less tickets too.

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