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#41
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#42
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30band...lol
thats funny...thats too much...and yes you can change your sound but your reciever, tuner, power supply, wiring and 10 other things can screw you up. so just because you have that means NOTHING........ Guess you don't know how to EQ do you. You set up a RTA with a calibrated flat response mic and EQ the actual audio heard by your ears. Compensates for your wire, speakers etc. within reason. But if you are using noisy garbage HU, Amps etc. nothing will fix that. Bah! You don't need an RTA. In fact, don't use an RTA. It'll only bias matters for you. In an ideal world, a 30-band (or more) EQ is a very good thing to have. It'll compensate for any global frequency response dips and peaks your system exhibits due to the speakers, car, or listener positioning. If you can get one that can store presets, even better. Your EQ adjustments will often be radically different based on ambient conditions (eg. windows up/down, AC full blast or off, even people in the passenger seat...). However, *in addition* to the 30-band EQ, I also recommend an in-dash EQ for fine-tune adjustment of the various music one may listen to. Let's be real here - not all music sounds the same or is mixed and mastered the same. It's obscene not to be able to control certain aspects of the music, unless the person listens to the same CD all the time. Bass and treble controls in most head units are not enough. The number of bands of in-dash equalization that one should use should basically be the maximum you can realistically adjust when driving [it's hard as hell to adjust 30 bands while driving - yes, I've done it]. |
#43
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Jim Savery
Global Customer Support Manager BEHRINGER The Americas BEHRINGER USA, Inc Tel: +01-425-672-0816 x 111 Direct Dial: +01-425-939-3216 Fax: +01-425-673-7647 IP Phone Ext: 5024 "MZ" wrote in message ... I haven't had any failures in the feild. As for comm syncing check to be sure you have the latest firmware, I THINK there may be a revision to correct that. Yep, latest firmware. The static issue drives me crazy. At one point, I tried putting new silicone down to hold the ribbon cable in place a bit better, which seemed to do the trick at first but then it started doing it again. I checked the silicone and it's still holding. You don't happen to have an email or phone number for Jim Savery, do you? |
#44
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tapes.....god i miss them..chrome tapes are close to cd quality..thats
all i used was chrome..i do have afrew metal tapes..... It too me many years to make all those tapes i have...... |
#45
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Ha shows you know nothing about car audio jethro..my Sherwood xat-3000
over 11 yrs old was 1 of the first 1ohm stabe amps on this planet....oh is rf-kicker-hifonics 1ohm stable yet??? hAHAhAHAhA........ I think Sherwood stop making them..too expensive to mass produce...... |
#46
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scott bbbbuuzzz wrong.....wear n stress doesnt provide stress on every
part of a unit that carries electricity....hmmm I should call nasa n inform them......they have it all wrong..lol Nothing is the same from home to car audio.... too....jsyk |
#47
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scott..i went up from 3.5v to 5v out puts..It changed my life.......
You can get a $500, 3v unit offer a trade to my $139, jensen 5v unit..ill tell you some thing i decided not to type here...but it ends in go ____ yourself.... lol. wwweeeeee |
#48
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#49
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scott i know all that..i know other things count too. but 5-8v is
great...i myself would only use 5v-6v tops.not to damage the 8 amps i have already......alot of amps have trouble with over 5v. but jensen i dont think is in the top 5 headunits with overal specs.So the increase in volts had to make it better.... But it does sound awsome over all.... go ((((JENSENNNNNNN))))) |
#50
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also lets say ya battery wears down alil if you got 7v outs.youll at
least get 5v....weeeeee if you got 4v then youll get 3v....something like that.... |
#52
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On Sun, 09 Oct 2005 12:34:53 -0400, Scott Gardner
wrote: On Sun, 9 Oct 2005 10:55:19 -0500, (bob wald) wrote: also lets say ya battery wears down alil if you got 7v outs.youll at least get 5v....weeeeee if you got 4v then youll get 3v....something like that.... This is wrong for so many reasons, I literally don't know were to start... Damn typos. should be "where to start", obviously. -- Scott Gardner "A child of five could understand this! Fetch me a child of five." |
#53
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so scott you get 100% of specs from stereo no matter what your battery
is doing..Boy Scott you are amazing...... |
#54
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What's so special about being stable down to one ohm?
On Sun, 9 Oct 2005, bob wald wrote: Ha shows you know nothing about car audio jethro..my Sherwood xat-3000 over 11 yrs old was 1 of the first 1ohm stabe amps on this planet....oh is rf-kicker-hifonics 1ohm stable yet??? hAHAhAHAhA........ I think Sherwood stop making them..too expensive to mass produce...... |
#55
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On Sun, 9 Oct 2005, bob wald wrote:
also lets say ya battery wears down alil if you got 7v outs.youll at least get 5v....weeeeee if you got 4v then youll get 3v....something like that.... If your battery "wears down", it won't change the output voltage of the unit. The gain is independent of the supply voltage. |
#56
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#57
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Man, I think something went wrong... DC on pin one? Pin one should be
tied to the 3rd prong of the AC inlet. Often times all I/O grounds are buffered thru a low ohmage, low wattage resistor to chasis ground. This is done on many pro devices especially in cases where there could be a lifted neutral on distro (power feed) This could turn the sheild of drive cables into the neutral, especially since opposite stage feeds are typically balanced between phases to leep the load proper. the resistor simply fails. Is the 3rd pin of your inverter chasis ground? Does it drive 60 volts above and below chasis groiund or 120V down to chasis? Did you do some grounding changes after the processor install? Is it (inverter) Isolated to the point where you could drive the neutral into ground (of car) Don't want to float the chasis up to 60V or higher. Expierienced that in a non-staked (earth grounded) tour bus wille holding onto the door and stepping into a puddle (drunk). "I became the true ground!" Lets say that pin 3 is tied to ground on the unbalanced in/out. This will try to drive UP ungrounded devices, even worse, biases the op-amps high. That would cause some big-time static, having DC floating around the unit. I suspect the DC on pin one is the root of all problems. Start at the AC input and go from there....... People using the early homebrew DC/DC converters were expierinncing the same problems and had to use trannys all over the ins and outs (very expensive!) I think there's an easier solutuion. I really wish I was at that point of my install to be able to assist. (I have just CHOSEN speakers, and the amp, finally) Get that chasis ground down to the car chasis and if it still floats, then somehow those buffer resistors could be shot. Man, I'm beat.. Please read thru the spelling and gram errors. I've pulled 2 acres of cattle fence out and can barely think and move. I'll try to re-read and try to shoot you an e-mail early this week, work has been rough, no monkeys, just professors Chad |
#58
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Man, I think something went wrong... DC on pin one? Pin one should be
tied to the 3rd prong of the AC inlet. Often times all I/O grounds are buffered thru a low ohmage, low wattage resistor to chasis ground. This is done on many pro devices especially in cases where there could be a lifted neutral on distro (power feed) This could turn the sheild of drive cables into the neutral, especially since opposite stage feeds are typically balanced between phases to leep the load proper. the resistor simply fails. Is the 3rd pin of your inverter chasis ground? Yes, it's grounded. It doesn't make much sense to me either, because one afternoon I did the following tests: 1. check resistance between chassis ground and third prong = 0 ohms. 2. verify that third prong on rackmount outlet strip is tied to ground with a meter (it's physically tied to ground too - oh yeah, and the surge suppressor crap is removed from the strip). 3. check resistance between rack rails and ground = 0 ohms (also tied directly to ground). But the DC offset problem appears when I either remove the rack rails from the ground or when I remove the processor from the rack. The other processor doesn't show any of these symptoms. I haven't had a chance to look closer, but the lack of logic screams loose connection somewhere. Does it drive 60 volts above and below chasis groiund or 120V down to chasis? Don't know. Did you do some grounding changes after the processor install? Nope. Is it (inverter) Isolated to the point where you could drive the neutral into ground (of car) Don't want to float the chasis up to 60V or higher. Expierienced that in a non-staked (earth grounded) tour bus wille holding onto the door and stepping into a puddle (drunk). "I became the true ground!" What do you mean? All ground points meet at a distro block directly tied to the battery negative. Lets say that pin 3 is tied to ground on the unbalanced in/out. This will try to drive UP ungrounded devices, even worse, biases the op-amps high. That would cause some big-time static, having DC floating around the unit. I suspect the DC on pin one is the root of all problems. I don't think so. For two reasons: 1) I can eliminate the DC bias and the problem still persists; 2) Both units are exhibiting static whereas only one is showing a DC issue. Also, when I got into one of the units, I could cause the problem and eliminate it simply by tapping or slightly moving the ribbon cable carrying analog information to the outputs board. Whether the cable itself is shot or the connectors, I don't know. Obviously, since it's still under warranty, I'm not going to try to figure that out. Start at the AC input and go from there....... People using the early homebrew DC/DC converters were expierinncing the same problems and had to use trannys all over the ins and outs (very expensive!) I think there's an easier solutuion. I really wish I was at that point of my install to be able to assist. (I have just CHOSEN speakers, and the amp, finally) What'd you choose? By the way, I've decided to homebrew two amplifiers - not kits, my own designs. Of course, various elements will be borrowed from the audio literature (eg. Wireless World, jAES, as well as that Randy Slone book I really like - even though it contrasts with Doug Self's book which I recently finished). So nothing groundbreaking or exotic really. Get that chasis ground down to the car chasis and if it still floats, then somehow those buffer resistors could be shot. Man, I'm beat.. Please read thru the spelling and gram errors. I've pulled 2 acres of cattle fence out and can barely think and move. I'll try to re-read and try to shoot you an e-mail early this week, work has been rough, no monkeys, just professors What's the difference? |
#59
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scott i never said a third....nice try to over state what i said..i said
like 19% power loss... |
#60
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"MZ" wrote in message news I don't think so. For two reasons: 1) I can eliminate the DC bias and the problem still persists; 2) Both units are exhibiting static whereas only one is showing a DC issue. Also, when I got into one of the units, I could cause the problem and eliminate it simply by tapping or slightly moving the ribbon cable carrying analog information to the outputs board. Whether the cable itself is shot or the connectors, I don't know. Obviously, since it's still under warranty, I'm not going to try to figure that out. Yeah, I would just get ahold of Behringer, there are different failure modes, seems strange! .. (I have just CHOSEN speakers, and the amp, finally) What'd you choose? Morel MDT12 tweets (flanges lathed down to fit stock pod) Seas CA18RNX mids (7") Peerless XLS or Dayton Reference sub (Dayton is a little cheaper but brand spanking new) Phoenix Gold XS6600 amp, older unit, will do internal banpass crossovers (very few do!) until I can figure out processing. Can be had new in box for cheap now. By the way, I've decided to homebrew two amplifiers - not kits, my own designs. Of course, various elements will be borrowed from the audio literature (eg. Wireless World, jAES, as well as that Randy Slone book I really like - even though it contrasts with Doug Self's book which I recently finished). So nothing groundbreaking or exotic really. You have bigger balls than I do.... Well I have a kid, concentration gets broken often I enjoy amp building but now that I'm older I like playing with tubes, Dunno, maybe I don't like keeping up on the cutting edge semiconductors...... Or maybe i have spent soooo long repairing them that I am burnt out. Seems the market is reforming, AF AND RF transistors are being discontinued and re-invented at an alarming rate. Some very popular Toshiba devices are being phased out and I have 2 racks full of amps that utilize this family of devices. I am in the process of buying as many as I feel I will need for rebuilds in the future work has been rough, no monkeys, just professors What's the difference? We expect Professors to be able to operate A/V equipment Chad |
#61
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#62
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every battery ever made after about 50days use doesnt hold 100%
charge.....i dout 93%... |
#63
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#64
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It may not hold the power for as long.. But if it doesnt hold the same
voltage, somethings terrbily wrong with that battery. "bob wald" wrote in message ... every battery ever made after about 50days use doesnt hold 100% charge.....i dout 93%... |
#65
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On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 17:41:11 GMT, "Kirby"
wrote: It may not hold the power for as long.. But if it doesnt hold the same voltage, somethings terrbily wrong with that battery. True, and different car batteries have different capacities to begin with anyway. It's not uncommon to see capacities ranging from 25 to 75 amp-hours, but that doesn't affect the battery voltage or the alternator/regulator voltage one bit. Bob is just grasping at straws, trying to find a situation that would cause the big drops in head unit preout voltage that he predicted in an earlier post. And trying to come up with an example of dropping preout voltages in the first place was just a misguided, desperate attempt to demonstrate the "advantages" of 7-volt preouts. As you can tell, he doesn't have a strong technical background in mathematics, physics, or electronics, so he's just flopping about like a fish out of water, trying to come up with situations that justify his statements, and using super-precise statistics to try to bluff us. -- Scott Gardner "It's not necessary to lose your soul in this business, but a certain amount of damage will be done to it" |
#66
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ok 60days.....i'm trying to tell you a fact.every1 knows after 90days
batterys dont hold 100% or like it was new...but its more like 50-60days i think... |
#67
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scott you are getting stuck of numbers to much....okk is getting a 15%
drop in power ok ? 25%,29% whatever...its all the same principal. |
#68
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scott. i am right.you WRONG again.....batterys dont stay the same though
use.... just admit it..i am the car gear guy.... hAHahAHAHahaHa...... you remind me of those brainless kids at sd board..... bask in my greatness.....that is i. the car gear guy. |
#69
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#71
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bob wald Wrote: scott. i am right.you WRONG again.....batterys dont stay the same though use.... just admit it..i am the car gear guy.... hAHahAHAHahaHa...... you remind me of those brainless kids at sd board..... bask in my greatness.....that is i. the car gear guy. bob, you are a waste of bandwidth... -- Jethro [(Vas/Vbox)+1]^.5 * Qts or Fs ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Jethro's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...p?userid=18662 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=227529 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! |
#72
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scott 0 n 15% n 25% isnt alike..meaning a noticable loss of power from
your battery but not enough for the battery to stop working.... |
#73
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what i said was 7v was better than a 4v.especially with a weaker
battery.... |
#74
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jethro i know you wanna be like me so bad....
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#76
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bob wald Wrote: jethro i know you wanna be like me so bad.... Been there done that... in about 1989... except I didn't troll online... -- Jethro [(Vas/Vbox)+1]^.5 * Qts or Fs ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Jethro's Profile: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/me...p?userid=18662 View this thread: http://www.caraudioforum.com/vbb3/sh...d.php?t=227789 CarAudioForum.com - Usenet Gateway w/over one million posts online! |
#77
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#78
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#79
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scott once again ill explain to you.your stereo is hooked directly to
your battery.so your stereo takes only from your battery n your altinator replaces it..doh........weeeeeee |
#80
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"bob wald the retard" wrote in message
... scott once again ill explain to you.your stereo is hooked directly to your battery.so your stereo takes only from your battery n your altinator replaces it..doh........weeeeeee Then start your engine and disconnect your battery. If your assumption is correct, your stereo will not work. ****en retard. Your altenator supplies, and your voltage REGULATOR "REGULATES" the electricity supply to your electrical system. ****en retard. doh.......weeeeeeeeeee - ****en retard. Greg. |
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