Ok so for the past few months I have been having a little issue with my
Kicker KX600.1 amp. A few months ago I noticed that the amp would click
off after a a few minutes of use, then it would turn back on and be
fine a few weeks, then it would do it again. So I figured that maybe
the setting were set to high, so I adjusted them, but still the
samething. My next thought was maybe it is over heating because it is
summer, so I put a fan on it , and still nothing. Well flash forward to
yesterday morning. I get in my car start driving, amp is fine, then out
of the clear blue my sub stops working. I figured it would come back on
in a few seconds, but to my surprise it didnt turn back on at all.

I get home to see if maybe there is a loose wire somewhere, but nothing
still dead . Next I unplug the sub and remote wire to see if maybe the
wires were bad, nothing, but I did notice something odd. On the side of
the amp there is 2 LEDS one green and one red that light up when the
amp is hooked up, on, and powered properly. I noticed that if I unhook
the sub and hook the remote wire up, the Red LED lights up faintly then
goes out. I have no clue what could have happened. Today Im going to
take it all apart to check all my wires and test the amp, but before I
do that I was wondering if anyone could chime in and help me out with
what could possibly be wrong? Oh this amp was made in 2002 and has a12"
Eclipse 8122DVC Aluminum hooked up to it and has 0 gauge wire. I
already checked all the fuses on the amp and the main lead fuse and
they are fine.

my guess is something is damaged inside the amp. if you have a
warranty, send it in for them to repair. if not, open it up and see if
you can see any burnt leads on any of the components.


--
KU40

It sounds to me like a protection circut of some sort failed. It's good to
know that kicker still sucks ass. The reason I say this is about 5 years ago
we drove to Florida and that the time I had a 4 channel Pyle amp bridged
running a pair of 4ohm single coil subs and the amp ran hot but never shutdown
or anything. In Florida I bought a 4 channel kicker amp ( the one with the
mesh grill) and this bag of crap would shutdown every 45 minutes. It ****ed me
off to the point that on the way home I pulled over at a reststop and hooked
up the Pyle amp again.



In article .com,
wrote:
Ok so for the past few months I have been having a little issue with my
Kicker KX600.1 amp. A few months ago I noticed that the amp would click
off after a a few minutes of use, then it would turn back on and be
fine a few weeks, then it would do it again. So I figured that maybe
the setting were set to high, so I adjusted them, but still the
samething. My next thought was maybe it is over heating because it is
summer, so I put a fan on it , and still nothing. Well flash forward to
yesterday morning. I get in my car start driving, amp is fine, then out
of the clear blue my sub stops working. I figured it would come back on
in a few seconds, but to my surprise it didnt turn back on at all.

I get home to see if maybe there is a loose wire somewhere, but nothing
still dead . Next I unplug the sub and remote wire to see if maybe the
wires were bad, nothing, but I did notice something odd. On the side of
the amp there is 2 LEDS one green and one red that light up when the
amp is hooked up, on, and powered properly. I noticed that if I unhook
the sub and hook the remote wire up, the Red LED lights up faintly then
goes out. I have no clue what could have happened. Today Im going to
take it all apart to check all my wires and test the amp, but before I
do that I was wondering if anyone could chime in and help me out with
what could possibly be wrong? Oh this amp was made in 2002 and has a12"
Eclipse 8122DVC Aluminum hooked up to it and has 0 gauge wire. I
already checked all the fuses on the amp and the main lead fuse and
they are fine.

^ were you running one sub per pair of bridged coils or did you wire the
coils of the two subs in parallel and run them both off one set of
bridged terminals?


--
KU40

Kicker - may be better amp but bad protection circuit
pyle - no protection curcuit. It runs on your lucky good installation no
need of protection circuit.

"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...
| It sounds to me like a protection circut of some sort failed. It's good to
| know that kicker still sucks ass. The reason I say this is about 5 years
ago
| we drove to Florida and that the time I had a 4 channel Pyle amp bridged
| running a pair of 4ohm single coil subs and the amp ran hot but never
shutdown
| or anything. In Florida I bought a 4 channel kicker amp ( the one with the
| mesh grill) and this bag of crap would shutdown every 45 minutes. It
****ed me
| off to the point that on the way home I pulled over at a reststop and
hooked
| up the Pyle amp again.
|
|
|
| In article .com,
| wrote:
| Ok so for the past few months I have been having a little issue with my
| Kicker KX600.1 amp. A few months ago I noticed that the amp would click
| off after a a few minutes of use, then it would turn back on and be
| fine a few weeks, then it would do it again. So I figured that maybe
| the setting were set to high, so I adjusted them, but still the
| samething. My next thought was maybe it is over heating because it is
| summer, so I put a fan on it , and still nothing. Well flash forward to
| yesterday morning. I get in my car start driving, amp is fine, then out
| of the clear blue my sub stops working. I figured it would come back on
| in a few seconds, but to my surprise it didnt turn back on at all.
|
| I get home to see if maybe there is a loose wire somewhere, but nothing
| still dead . Next I unplug the sub and remote wire to see if maybe the
| wires were bad, nothing, but I did notice something odd. On the side of
| the amp there is 2 LEDS one green and one red that light up when the
| amp is hooked up, on, and powered properly. I noticed that if I unhook
| the sub and hook the remote wire up, the Red LED lights up faintly then
| goes out. I have no clue what could have happened. Today Im going to
| take it all apart to check all my wires and test the amp, but before I
| do that I was wondering if anyone could chime in and help me out with
| what could possibly be wrong? Oh this amp was made in 2002 and has a12"
| Eclipse 8122DVC Aluminum hooked up to it and has 0 gauge wire. I
| already checked all the fuses on the amp and the main lead fuse and
| they are fine.
|

The pyle had thermo and overload protection curcuits


In article , "Vivek" wrote:
Kicker - may be better amp but bad protection circuit
pyle - no protection curcuit. It runs on your lucky good installation no
need of protection circuit.

doesn't mean they work well. i'll ask again- were you running one sub
per pair of bridged coils or did you wire the coils of the two subs in
parallel and run them both off one set of bridged terminals?


--
KU40

I was running one 4ohm single coil sub per pair of bridged channels. so that
the amp would see a 2ohm load per sub.




In article , KU40
wrote:

doesn't mean they work well. i'll ask again- were you running one sub
per pair of bridged coils or did you wire the coils of the two subs in
parallel and run them both off one set of bridged terminals?

Well Im starting to think that it is probably the Fast Recovery Diodes
and the Transistors on the power supply, does that sound like a
possiblity to you guys? Also if you would like pictures of the board I
have some. There is no warranty on this amp, because is it 4 years
old. Now for anyone who thinks Pyle is better than Kicker, well that
is just nuts. Now Kicker is by no means god like, but Pyle is just
total pile of crap. If a Pyle amp ever beats out a Kicker then either
the Kicker was a dud or the installer is a moron. This amp ran for 4
year almost 6 hours a day (long drive to and from work) in Arizona heat
and Maine winters, at well over half way. I would love to see a Pyle
amp run an Eclipse 8122DVC 12" sub for that amount of time and last
more than a year. I have the Eclipse wired for 2ohm. Like I said I
know that Kicker isnt the best thing in the world, but it will destroy
any PepBoys crap like Pyle. Now please someone tell me that my JL
1000/1 is crap as well , because I have that in my Mustang. Now back
on topic. I took it apart and there is no burn marks, broken or
exploded caps or resistors. there is no visible problems at all.

Ok here something that is rather interesting. When I tested the wires
NOT hooked up to the amp I got a 14.2 and 14.4 reading on my
multimeter, but when I hooked up the wires to the amp, the multimeter
wouldnt give me a straight reading. All the multimeter is jump around,
so that is leading me to believe that it is something in the power
supply. or the remote circuit line, because I get a straight good
reading from the wires when unhooked, but hooked up there is no way I
can get a good reading. So anyone have a clue of if Im heading in the
right direction?


Here is some pictures of the amp, I hope this help out.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...rontboard2.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...omofboard2.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...tomofboard.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...frontboard.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...n/3cbcd91a.jpg



I hope this links work, I have been having issues with them lately
Thanks for the help, please keep it up

That pyle ran 21 hours to florida and another 21 hours back, The Kicker
shutdown after no more then 45 minutes.

In article .com,
wrote:
Well Im starting to think that it is probably the Fast Recovery Diodes
and the Transistors on the power supply, does that sound like a
possiblity to you guys? Also if you would like pictures of the board I
have some. There is no warranty on this amp, because is it 4 years
old. Now for anyone who thinks Pyle is better than Kicker, well that
is just nuts.

Does a kicker install any different then a pyle?


Now Kicker is by no means god like, but Pyle is just
total pile of crap. If a Pyle amp ever beats out a Kicker then either
the Kicker was a dud or the installer is a moron. This amp ran for 4
year almost 6 hours a day (long drive to and from work) in Arizona heat
and Maine winters, at well over half way. I would love to see a Pyle
amp run an Eclipse 8122DVC 12" sub for that amount of time and last
more than a year. I have the Eclipse wired for 2ohm. Like I said I
know that Kicker isnt the best thing in the world, but it will destroy
any PepBoys crap like Pyle.



Haven't you heard JL is for suckers. For a class D amp with a such a large
foot print, 1000watts and no power gain between 1.5 ohm-4 ohm and 11V-14.5V
you tell me.


Now please someone tell me that my JL
1000/1 is crap as well , because I have that in my Mustang.


What setting did you use on your multimeter? Check the trasistors for leakage.
If you do start replacing trasistor on the power supply make sure that they
are the same make, some aftermarket replacement transistors use a lower gate
voltage and after looking at the pics and seeing that your gates your smt
resistors you can have a hell of a time finding replacement to lower the gate
voltage.

You're in for a lot of fun 75% of that amp uses smt parts. Did you call
kicker, they might have a flat fee repair rate.




Now back
on topic. I took it apart and there is no burn marks, broken or
exploded caps or resistors. there is no visible problems at all.

Ok here something that is rather interesting. When I tested the wires
NOT hooked up to the amp I got a 14.2 and 14.4 reading on my
multimeter, but when I hooked up the wires to the amp, the multimeter
wouldnt give me a straight reading. All the multimeter is jump around,
so that is leading me to believe that it is something in the power
supply. or the remote circuit line, because I get a straight good
reading from the wires when unhooked, but hooked up there is no way I
can get a good reading. So anyone have a clue of if Im heading in the
right direction?


Here is some pictures of the amp, I hope this help out.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...rontboard2.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...omofboard2.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...tomofboard.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...frontboard.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...n/3cbcd91a.jpg



I hope this links work, I have been having issues with them lately
Thanks for the help, please keep it up

wrote in message
oups.com...
Well Im starting to think that it is probably the Fast Recovery Diodes
and the Transistors on the power supply, does that sound like a
possiblity to you guys? Also if you would like pictures of the board I
have some. There is no warranty on this amp, because is it 4 years
old. Now for anyone who thinks Pyle is better than Kicker, well that
is just nuts. Now Kicker is by no means god like, but Pyle is just
total pile of crap. If a Pyle amp ever beats out a Kicker then either
the Kicker was a dud or the installer is a moron. This amp ran for 4
year almost 6 hours a day (long drive to and from work) in Arizona heat
and Maine winters, at well over half way. I would love to see a Pyle
amp run an Eclipse 8122DVC 12" sub for that amount of time and last
more than a year. I have the Eclipse wired for 2ohm. Like I said I
know that Kicker isnt the best thing in the world, but it will destroy
any PepBoys crap like Pyle. Now please someone tell me that my JL
1000/1 is crap as well , because I have that in my Mustang. Now back
on topic. I took it apart and there is no burn marks, broken or
exploded caps or resistors. there is no visible problems at all.

Ok here something that is rather interesting. When I tested the wires
NOT hooked up to the amp I got a 14.2 and 14.4 reading on my
multimeter, but when I hooked up the wires to the amp, the multimeter
wouldnt give me a straight reading. All the multimeter is jump around,
so that is leading me to believe that it is something in the power
supply. or the remote circuit line, because I get a straight good
reading from the wires when unhooked, but hooked up there is no way I
can get a good reading. So anyone have a clue of if Im heading in the
right direction?


Here is some pictures of the amp, I hope this help out.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...rontboard2.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...omofboard2.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...tomofboard.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...frontboard.jpg

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...n/3cbcd91a.jpg



I hope this links work, I have been having issues with them lately
Thanks for the help, please keep it up


Put your meter in diode mode and check for shorted output devices. If there
are none then the PS is at fault. The inconsistent voltage readings are
from the amp trying to turn on, pulling a huge amount of current then
shutting down. Usually in this condition the audio finals are at fault. Or
the PWM oscillator/ Pulse distribution. The FETs and FR diodes have +12 on
them all the time, even when the amp is off. A shorted device there would
be quite obvious immediately The Remote turn on simply sets the
oscillator in action thus turning on the HV supply.

Best luck, Hope you get it running, they are cool amps!

Chad

Ooch!

"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...
| The pyle had thermo and overload protection curcuits
|
|
| In article , "Vivek"
wrote:
| Kicker - may be better amp but bad protection circuit
| pyle - no protection curcuit. It runs on your lucky good installation no
| need of protection circuit.
|

Ok guys I cant get my hands on the original Fast Recovery Diode I
need, but I found a possible replacement, but Im not sure if I can use
it or not. So could someone tell me if I can use this replacement
Diode?


Origianl Diode from the Amp Part number YG225D2 (click to enlarge)
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...eet_Page_1.jpg


Replacement Part number MUR1620CT
http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MUR1620CT-D.PDF

wrote in message
oups.com...
Ok guys I cant get my hands on the original Fast Recovery Diode I
need, but I found a possible replacement, but Im not sure if I can use
it or not. So could someone tell me if I can use this replacement
Diode?


Origianl Diode from the Amp Part number YG225D2 (click to enlarge)
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a20...eet_Page_1.jpg


Replacement Part number MUR1620CT
http://www.onsemi.com/pub/Collateral/MUR1620CT-D.PDF


The ON device is NOT a replacement. Current is too low. Need 10 amp or
better. Prolly a good idea to replace ALL of the FR devices to ensure equal
turn on speed. Did you check them out of circuit and they are shorted? How
about the switching FETS? Those may be bad as well if the FR's are shot.

Chad

[ac0j]

*When I tested the wires
*NOT hooked up to the amp I got a 14.2 and 14.4 reading on my
*multimeter, but when I hooked up the wires to the amp, the multimeter
*wouldnt give me a straight reading. All the multimeter is jump around,
*so that is leading me to believe that it is something in the power
*supply. or the remote circuit line, because I get a straight good
*reading from the wires when unhooked, but hooked up there is no way I
*can get a good reading. So anyone have a clue of if Im heading in the
*right direction?


It is possible to have voltage but not current on you battery wire. Just a shot in the dark, but it could be as simple as a corroded fuse holder, battery or ground connection. did you give the connectors and fuse a good close look?

I would try the amp on the bench and see if it powers up.