I am currently running two 175Wnom 300Wmax 10" 8-ohm subs in parallel to
form a 4-ohm load.

I am running it off two of my four channels from a 1500W amp. The two
channels are bridged to supply 300Wrms.

I don't have the 12db bass boost on but I would like to turn it on and see
what happens.

Would it be possible to damage these subs (they were very cheap) with this
power of the amp? How easy will it be to hear subs distort in the back of my
car? They are fitted into a 1.5cu Ft sealed box each.

I like to use the 'motorcycle analogy'...

There are plenty bikes that can go 200MPH, but that doesn't mean you have to
ride faster than the speed limit!

The amp can be turned down... Right?!

David
UnderTheDash.com


"pil" wrote in message
...
I am currently running two 175Wnom 300Wmax 10" 8-ohm subs in parallel to
form a 4-ohm load.

I am running it off two of my four channels from a 1500W amp. The two
channels are bridged to supply 300Wrms.

I don't have the 12db bass boost on but I would like to turn it on and see
what happens.

Would it be possible to damage these subs (they were very cheap) with this
power of the amp? How easy will it be to hear subs distort in the back of
my
car? They are fitted into a 1.5cu Ft sealed box each.

I am currently running two 175Wnom 300Wmax 10" 8-ohm subs in parallel to
form a 4-ohm load.

I am running it off two of my four channels from a 1500W amp. The two
channels are bridged to supply 300Wrms.

I don't have the 12db bass boost on but I would like to turn it on and see
what happens.

Would it be possible to damage these subs (they were very cheap) with this
power of the amp? How easy will it be to hear subs distort in the back of
my
car? They are fitted into a 1.5cu Ft sealed box each.

If you feel you need to run the bass boost, then I'm telling you that's not
a 1500w amp. So what's the amp's model number? We'll look it up and give
you an estimate on its actual power output.

Starsound Jackslammer 1500W www.starsound.co.za

It is rated 600W rms when all four channels have been bridged.

I really wouldn't judge the amp on the subs I currently have. The amp like
cost me R1400 ($220) and the subs were R80 ($12) each.




"MZ" wrote in message
...
I am currently running two 175Wnom 300Wmax 10" 8-ohm subs in parallel to
form a 4-ohm load.

I am running it off two of my four channels from a 1500W amp. The two
channels are bridged to supply 300Wrms.

I don't have the 12db bass boost on but I would like to turn it on and
see
what happens.

Would it be possible to damage these subs (they were very cheap) with
this
power of the amp? How easy will it be to hear subs distort in the back
of
my
car? They are fitted into a 1.5cu Ft sealed box each.

If you feel you need to run the bass boost, then I'm telling you that's
not
a 1500w amp. So what's the amp's model number? We'll look it up and give
you an estimate on its actual power output.

Ok, then it's a 600w amp. Sounds more reasonable. Are the channels
bridged?

--
Mark
remove "remove" and "spam" to reply

"pil" wrote in message
...
Starsound Jackslammer 1500W www.starsound.co.za

It is rated 600W rms when all four channels have been bridged.

I really wouldn't judge the amp on the subs I currently have. The amp like
cost me R1400 ($220) and the subs were R80 ($12) each.




"MZ" wrote in message
...
I am currently running two 175Wnom 300Wmax 10" 8-ohm subs in parallel
to
form a 4-ohm load.

I am running it off two of my four channels from a 1500W amp. The two
channels are bridged to supply 300Wrms.

I don't have the 12db bass boost on but I would like to turn it on and
see
what happens.

Would it be possible to damage these subs (they were very cheap) with
this
power of the amp? How easy will it be to hear subs distort in the back
of
my
car? They are fitted into a 1.5cu Ft sealed box each.

If you feel you need to run the bass boost, then I'm telling you that's
not
a 1500w amp. So what's the amp's model number? We'll look it up and
give
you an estimate on its actual power output.

Yes, I am using two of the four channels and they are bridged to form one
300W rms channel


"MZ" wrote in message
news
Ok, then it's a 600w amp. Sounds more reasonable. Are the channels
bridged?

--
Mark
remove "remove" and "spam" to reply

"pil" wrote in message
...
Starsound Jackslammer 1500W www.starsound.co.za

It is rated 600W rms when all four channels have been bridged.

I really wouldn't judge the amp on the subs I currently have. The amp
like
cost me R1400 ($220) and the subs were R80 ($12) each.




"MZ" wrote in message
...
I am currently running two 175Wnom 300Wmax 10" 8-ohm subs in
parallel
to
form a 4-ohm load.

I am running it off two of my four channels from a 1500W amp. The
two
channels are bridged to supply 300Wrms.

I don't have the 12db bass boost on but I would like to turn it on
and
see
what happens.

Would it be possible to damage these subs (they were very cheap)
with
this
power of the amp? How easy will it be to hear subs distort in the
back
of
my
car? They are fitted into a 1.5cu Ft sealed box each.

If you feel you need to run the bass boost, then I'm telling you
that's
not
a 1500w amp. So what's the amp's model number? We'll look it up and
give
you an estimate on its actual power output.

Ok, so you have two 175 watt subs each receiving 150 watts. It'll be
difficult to blow the subs.

--
Mark
remove "remove" and "spam" to reply

"pil" wrote in message
...
Yes, I am using two of the four channels and they are bridged to form one
300W rms channel


"MZ" wrote in message
news
Ok, then it's a 600w amp. Sounds more reasonable. Are the channels
bridged?

--
Mark
remove "remove" and "spam" to reply

"pil" wrote in message
...
Starsound Jackslammer 1500W www.starsound.co.za

It is rated 600W rms when all four channels have been bridged.

I really wouldn't judge the amp on the subs I currently have. The amp
like
cost me R1400 ($220) and the subs were R80 ($12) each.




"MZ" wrote in message
...
I am currently running two 175Wnom 300Wmax 10" 8-ohm subs in
parallel
to
form a 4-ohm load.

I am running it off two of my four channels from a 1500W amp. The
two
channels are bridged to supply 300Wrms.

I don't have the 12db bass boost on but I would like to turn it on
and
see
what happens.

Would it be possible to damage these subs (they were very cheap)
with
this
power of the amp? How easy will it be to hear subs distort in the
back
of
my
car? They are fitted into a 1.5cu Ft sealed box each.

If you feel you need to run the bass boost, then I'm telling you
that's
not
a 1500w amp. So what's the amp's model number? We'll look it up
and
give
you an estimate on its actual power output.

"MZ" wrote in message
...
Ok, so you have two 175 watt subs each receiving 150 watts. It'll be
difficult to blow the subs.

--
Mark
remove "remove" and "spam" to reply

"pil" wrote in message
...
Yes, I am using two of the four channels and they are bridged to form
one
300W rms channel


"MZ" wrote in message
news
Ok, then it's a 600w amp. Sounds more reasonable. Are the channels
bridged?

--
Mark
remove "remove" and "spam" to reply

"pil" wrote in message
...
Starsound Jackslammer 1500W www.starsound.co.za

It is rated 600W rms when all four channels have been bridged.

I really wouldn't judge the amp on the subs I currently have. The
amp
like
cost me R1400 ($220) and the subs were R80 ($12) each.




"MZ" wrote in message
...
I am currently running two 175Wnom 300Wmax 10" 8-ohm subs in
parallel
to
form a 4-ohm load.

I am running it off two of my four channels from a 1500W amp.
The
two
channels are bridged to supply 300Wrms.

I don't have the 12db bass boost on but I would like to turn it
on
and
see
what happens.

Would it be possible to damage these subs (they were very cheap)
with
this
power of the amp? How easy will it be to hear subs distort in
the
back
of
my
car? They are fitted into a 1.5cu Ft sealed box each.

If you feel you need to run the bass boost, then I'm telling you
that's
not
a 1500w amp. So what's the amp's model number? We'll look it up
and
give
you an estimate on its actual power output.











Yes, Thats what I figured but aparently 175W nom is not the same as 175W rms

Yes, Thats what I figured but aparently 175W nom is not the same as 175W
rms

Well, it usually is. The real deal is that power ratings are essentially
meaningless anyway (for instance, RMS isn't even RMS!), so this conversation
isn't really fruitful.

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 12:05:41 -0400, "MZ"
wrote:

Yes, Thats what I figured but aparently 175W nom is not the same as 175W
rms

Well, it usually is. The real deal is that power ratings are essentially
meaningless anyway (for instance, RMS isn't even RMS!), so this conversation
isn't really fruitful.


I agree that the manufacturers are kind of out-to-lunch with some of
their units of measure, but I wouldn't go so far to say the ratings
are "meaningless", as long as the speaker manufacturers and the
amplifier manufacturers are on the same page.

For example, both car stereo amplifiers and car speakers are rated in
"Watts", when they should technically be rated in volt-amperes. While
the Watt is the incorrect unit of measure, at least both the speaker
and amp manufacturers are using the same incorrect measure. Even with
the wrong units, we're able to adequately match our amps to our
speakers, and the Earth continues to turn on its axis...


Scott Gardner

Well, it usually is. The real deal is that power ratings are essentially
meaningless anyway (for instance, RMS isn't even RMS!), so this
conversation
isn't really fruitful.


I agree that the manufacturers are kind of out-to-lunch with some of
their units of measure, but I wouldn't go so far to say the ratings
are "meaningless", as long as the speaker manufacturers and the
amplifier manufacturers are on the same page.

Which is almost never the case.


For example, both car stereo amplifiers and car speakers are rated in
"Watts", when they should technically be rated in volt-amperes. While
the Watt is the incorrect unit of measure, at least both the speaker
and amp manufacturers are using the same incorrect measure.

And they're both incorrectly using "RMS power" when they really mean
"average power". So yeah, they're all f'd up.

Even with
the wrong units, we're able to adequately match our amps to our
speakers, and the Earth continues to turn on its axis...

We're really not, because manufacturers are so conservative or liberal with
their ratings.

On Sun, 11 Apr 2004 12:35:57 -0400, "MZ"
wrote:

Well, it usually is. The real deal is that power ratings are essentially
meaningless anyway (for instance, RMS isn't even RMS!), so this
conversation
isn't really fruitful.


I agree that the manufacturers are kind of out-to-lunch with some of
their units of measure, but I wouldn't go so far to say the ratings
are "meaningless", as long as the speaker manufacturers and the
amplifier manufacturers are on the same page.

Which is almost never the case.


For example, both car stereo amplifiers and car speakers are rated in
"Watts", when they should technically be rated in volt-amperes. While
the Watt is the incorrect unit of measure, at least both the speaker
and amp manufacturers are using the same incorrect measure.

And they're both incorrectly using "RMS power" when they really mean
"average power". So yeah, they're all f'd up.

Even with
the wrong units, we're able to adequately match our amps to our
speakers, and the Earth continues to turn on its axis...

We're really not, because manufacturers are so conservative or liberal with
their ratings.


True, but a company that habitually over- or underrates its equipment
is going to do so whether they use the correct engineering terms or
not, so that's more of a marketing philosophy.

"Scott Gardner" wrote:
I agree that the manufacturers are kind of out-to-lunch with some of
their units of measure, but I wouldn't go so far to say the ratings
are "meaningless", as long as the speaker manufacturers and the
amplifier manufacturers are on the same page.

I agree on this point. I believe the "watts" spec is mainly to help people
without an electronics background to match their speakers and amps. Expecting
them to take time-averaged power and reactive power into account is asking a bit
much. Things get complicated quickly and also depend largely on the end
installation.

For example, both car stereo amplifiers and car speakers are rated in
"Watts", when they should technically be rated in volt-amperes. While
the Watt is the incorrect unit of measure, at least both the speaker
and amp manufacturers are using the same incorrect measure. Even with
the wrong units, we're able to adequately match our amps to our
speakers, and the Earth continues to turn on its axis...

The wattage rating of a driver implies the thermal limits and I think it has
it's place. The maximum VA spec of a driver is largely dependent on the
installation, but it would be a useful spec for amplifiers. It would be nice if
manufacturers supplied much more detailed spec sheets including testing methods
but I think they're afraid of confusing consumers. It would also hamper the
marketing games they play so I don't expect we'll see useful specs any time
soon.