I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC. I could make
a custom unbalanced-to-balanced cable for this, but the ADC expects +4
dBu input signal level so its sensitivity is too low. There is an
option to set its jumpers to increase its sensitivity and make it
compatible with consumer level sources, but I have to open up the unit
to do that -- a big hassle. So I thought of using an active stage
that converts an unbalanced -10 dBV source to balanced +4 dBu. I want
the result to be as clean and transparent as possible. My options
a

1. Use a transformer/line amp dedicated for this purpose such as...
Henry Engineering MatchBox:
http://www.fullcompass.com/Products/pages/SKU--57053/
--or--
Aphex 124A:
http://www.fullcompass.com/Products/pages/SKU--24353/
(Both of these products use Jensen transformers.)

2. Use the DI inputs of a good, clean mic pre -- the FMR Audio RNP:
http://www.fmraudio.com

3. Just use a custom unbalanced-to-balanced (RCA to XLR) cable and
endure the hassle of opening up the ADC and setting its jumpers. The
distance between the source and the ADC is less than 3 feet, so cable
length can be made very short for best results with this option.

Which of these would be the best choice?
Would the fact that the Henry and Aphex units are dedicated for this
purpose make them any better than the RNP for this?

Any opinions or advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in
advance!

Michael

"Michael Lauengco" wrote in message
om...
I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC.

snippage

3. Just use a custom unbalanced-to-balanced (RCA to XLR) cable and
endure the hassle of opening up the ADC and setting its jumpers. The
distance between the source and the ADC is less than 3 feet, so cable
length can be made very short for best results with this option.

To me, this sounds like not a whole lot of hassle. And, if you really
wanted to while you were in there, you could custom install a carefully
chosen switch(es) on the back panel to do this easily, if it is something
you want to be able to do again in the future. Assuming, of course, that
there is room on the back panel. If not, I'm sure you could find someplace
to put one.

Of course, if you already HAVE all the other stuff in your other options,
try one of the other options, and see which you like the best. If you DON'T
have some of the other stuff just lying around, it sounds like MUCH more of
a hassle to go acquire it, than to open up the piece of gear you already
have.
I would say, the less you add to your system, the likelier it will be you'll
be able to keep as pristine a signal as possible.

Of course, YMMV.

Kendall



Michael

"Michael Lauengco" wrote in message
om...
I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC.

snippage

3. Just use a custom unbalanced-to-balanced (RCA to XLR) cable and
endure the hassle of opening up the ADC and setting its jumpers. The
distance between the source and the ADC is less than 3 feet, so cable
length can be made very short for best results with this option.

To me, this sounds like not a whole lot of hassle. And, if you really
wanted to while you were in there, you could custom install a carefully
chosen switch(es) on the back panel to do this easily, if it is something
you want to be able to do again in the future. Assuming, of course, that
there is room on the back panel. If not, I'm sure you could find someplace
to put one.

Of course, if you already HAVE all the other stuff in your other options,
try one of the other options, and see which you like the best. If you DON'T
have some of the other stuff just lying around, it sounds like MUCH more of
a hassle to go acquire it, than to open up the piece of gear you already
have.
I would say, the less you add to your system, the likelier it will be you'll
be able to keep as pristine a signal as possible.

Of course, YMMV.

Kendall



Michael

"Michael Lauengco" wrote in message
om...
I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC.

snippage

3. Just use a custom unbalanced-to-balanced (RCA to XLR) cable and
endure the hassle of opening up the ADC and setting its jumpers. The
distance between the source and the ADC is less than 3 feet, so cable
length can be made very short for best results with this option.

To me, this sounds like not a whole lot of hassle. And, if you really
wanted to while you were in there, you could custom install a carefully
chosen switch(es) on the back panel to do this easily, if it is something
you want to be able to do again in the future. Assuming, of course, that
there is room on the back panel. If not, I'm sure you could find someplace
to put one.

Of course, if you already HAVE all the other stuff in your other options,
try one of the other options, and see which you like the best. If you DON'T
have some of the other stuff just lying around, it sounds like MUCH more of
a hassle to go acquire it, than to open up the piece of gear you already
have.
I would say, the less you add to your system, the likelier it will be you'll
be able to keep as pristine a signal as possible.

Of course, YMMV.

Kendall



Michael

"Michael Lauengco" wrote in message
om...
I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC. I could make
a custom unbalanced-to-balanced cable for this, but the ADC expects +4
dBu input signal level so its sensitivity is too low. There is an
option to set its jumpers to increase its sensitivity and make it
compatible with consumer level sources, but I have to open up the unit
to do that -- a big hassle. So I thought of using an active stage
that converts an unbalanced -10 dBV source to balanced +4 dBu. I want
the result to be as clean and transparent as possible. My options
a

1. Use a transformer/line amp dedicated for this purpose such as...
Henry Engineering MatchBox:
http://www.fullcompass.com/Products/pages/SKU--57053/
--or--
Aphex 124A:
http://www.fullcompass.com/Products/pages/SKU--24353/
(Both of these products use Jensen transformers.)

2. Use the DI inputs of a good, clean mic pre -- the FMR Audio RNP:
http://www.fmraudio.com

3. Just use a custom unbalanced-to-balanced (RCA to XLR) cable and
endure the hassle of opening up the ADC and setting its jumpers. The
distance between the source and the ADC is less than 3 feet, so cable
length can be made very short for best results with this option.

Which of these would be the best choice?

Number 3. The less gear you use, the less it'll screw the sound up. As far
as setting the jumpers is concerned...do it if you want to, but with 24-bit
recording, you can record at that too-low level and bump it up later, and
not lose anything in particular. Especially with a converter as good as a
Mytek.

Peace,
Paul

"Michael Lauengco" wrote in message
om...
I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC. I could make
a custom unbalanced-to-balanced cable for this, but the ADC expects +4
dBu input signal level so its sensitivity is too low. There is an
option to set its jumpers to increase its sensitivity and make it
compatible with consumer level sources, but I have to open up the unit
to do that -- a big hassle. So I thought of using an active stage
that converts an unbalanced -10 dBV source to balanced +4 dBu. I want
the result to be as clean and transparent as possible. My options
a

1. Use a transformer/line amp dedicated for this purpose such as...
Henry Engineering MatchBox:
http://www.fullcompass.com/Products/pages/SKU--57053/
--or--
Aphex 124A:
http://www.fullcompass.com/Products/pages/SKU--24353/
(Both of these products use Jensen transformers.)

2. Use the DI inputs of a good, clean mic pre -- the FMR Audio RNP:
http://www.fmraudio.com

3. Just use a custom unbalanced-to-balanced (RCA to XLR) cable and
endure the hassle of opening up the ADC and setting its jumpers. The
distance between the source and the ADC is less than 3 feet, so cable
length can be made very short for best results with this option.

Which of these would be the best choice?

Number 3. The less gear you use, the less it'll screw the sound up. As far
as setting the jumpers is concerned...do it if you want to, but with 24-bit
recording, you can record at that too-low level and bump it up later, and
not lose anything in particular. Especially with a converter as good as a
Mytek.

Peace,
Paul

"Michael Lauengco" wrote in message
om...
I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC. I could make
a custom unbalanced-to-balanced cable for this, but the ADC expects +4
dBu input signal level so its sensitivity is too low. There is an
option to set its jumpers to increase its sensitivity and make it
compatible with consumer level sources, but I have to open up the unit
to do that -- a big hassle. So I thought of using an active stage
that converts an unbalanced -10 dBV source to balanced +4 dBu. I want
the result to be as clean and transparent as possible. My options
a

1. Use a transformer/line amp dedicated for this purpose such as...
Henry Engineering MatchBox:
http://www.fullcompass.com/Products/pages/SKU--57053/
--or--
Aphex 124A:
http://www.fullcompass.com/Products/pages/SKU--24353/
(Both of these products use Jensen transformers.)

2. Use the DI inputs of a good, clean mic pre -- the FMR Audio RNP:
http://www.fmraudio.com

3. Just use a custom unbalanced-to-balanced (RCA to XLR) cable and
endure the hassle of opening up the ADC and setting its jumpers. The
distance between the source and the ADC is less than 3 feet, so cable
length can be made very short for best results with this option.

Which of these would be the best choice?

Number 3. The less gear you use, the less it'll screw the sound up. As far
as setting the jumpers is concerned...do it if you want to, but with 24-bit
recording, you can record at that too-low level and bump it up later, and
not lose anything in particular. Especially with a converter as good as a
Mytek.

Peace,
Paul

Have a look at the SAM-1 at

http://www.funk-tonstudiotechnik.de/SYMM-VERST.htm

Excellent quality, works perfect. German page, sorry...

Best one I know of is the FM-Acoustics (www.fmacoustics.com) FM 214.
But you don't wan't to pay for that one...

Samuel

Have a look at the SAM-1 at

http://www.funk-tonstudiotechnik.de/SYMM-VERST.htm

Excellent quality, works perfect. German page, sorry...

Best one I know of is the FM-Acoustics (www.fmacoustics.com) FM 214.
But you don't wan't to pay for that one...

Samuel

Have a look at the SAM-1 at

http://www.funk-tonstudiotechnik.de/SYMM-VERST.htm

Excellent quality, works perfect. German page, sorry...

Best one I know of is the FM-Acoustics (www.fmacoustics.com) FM 214.
But you don't wan't to pay for that one...

Samuel

"Michael Lauengco" wrote ...
I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC. . . . I want
the result to be as clean and transparent as possible. My options
a

1. Use a transformer/line amp dedicated for this purpose such as...
.. . . .
2. Use the DI inputs of a good, clean mic pre -- the FMR Audio RNP:
.. . . .
3. Just use a custom unbalanced-to-balanced (RCA to XLR) cable and
endure the hassle of opening up the ADC and setting its jumpers.
.. . . .
Which of these would be the best choice?

#3 if you truly want "as clean and transparent as possible".

Would the fact that the Henry and Aphex units are dedicated for
this purpose make them any better than the RNP for this?

No additional transformers or active circuitry of any price/quality
are "better" than just resetting the input sensitivity jumpers IMHO.

"Michael Lauengco" wrote ...
I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC. . . . I want
the result to be as clean and transparent as possible. My options
a

1. Use a transformer/line amp dedicated for this purpose such as...
.. . . .
2. Use the DI inputs of a good, clean mic pre -- the FMR Audio RNP:
.. . . .
3. Just use a custom unbalanced-to-balanced (RCA to XLR) cable and
endure the hassle of opening up the ADC and setting its jumpers.
.. . . .
Which of these would be the best choice?

#3 if you truly want "as clean and transparent as possible".

Would the fact that the Henry and Aphex units are dedicated for
this purpose make them any better than the RNP for this?

No additional transformers or active circuitry of any price/quality
are "better" than just resetting the input sensitivity jumpers IMHO.

"Michael Lauengco" wrote ...
I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC. . . . I want
the result to be as clean and transparent as possible. My options
a

1. Use a transformer/line amp dedicated for this purpose such as...
.. . . .
2. Use the DI inputs of a good, clean mic pre -- the FMR Audio RNP:
.. . . .
3. Just use a custom unbalanced-to-balanced (RCA to XLR) cable and
endure the hassle of opening up the ADC and setting its jumpers.
.. . . .
Which of these would be the best choice?

#3 if you truly want "as clean and transparent as possible".

Would the fact that the Henry and Aphex units are dedicated for
this purpose make them any better than the RNP for this?

No additional transformers or active circuitry of any price/quality
are "better" than just resetting the input sensitivity jumpers IMHO.

Michael Lauengco wrote:
I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC. I could make
a custom unbalanced-to-balanced cable for this, but the ADC expects +4
dBu input signal level so its sensitivity is too low. There is an
option to set its jumpers to increase its sensitivity and make it
compatible with consumer level sources, but I have to open up the unit
to do that -- a big hassle.

It's only a hassle if have to do it often.

Which of these would be the best choice?

None of the above. If you want to avoid opening the ADC box all the time,
just set it for -10 dB sensitivity and use an external attenuator for
signals that are over -10 dB. The difference between -10 and |4 is about 12
dB. In most if not all cases, either a 10 dB or 15 dB attenuator will
suffice.

You can try mic attenuators, but they tend to be a little on the
low-impedance side for line-level signals.

Since the input to your DAC is XLR, the XLR format of mic attenuators does
have some romance.

You can either buy some 10 or 15 dB mic attenuators and rewire them with
resistors 5-10 times larger than what they come with, or you can buy
polarity inverters and rewire them with resistors instead of jumpers. The
usual attenuator like this is composed of 3 resistors. A 10 dB balanced is
approximated by 3 resistors with more-or-less the same value. 4.7 K strikes
me as a nice value.

There is supposedly a switchcraft part that is an XLR male-female shell, but
it seems to be a lot harder to find than ready-made attenuators or polarity
inverters. Typically, they all come apart and can be rewired pretty easily.

Michael Lauengco wrote:
I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC. I could make
a custom unbalanced-to-balanced cable for this, but the ADC expects +4
dBu input signal level so its sensitivity is too low. There is an
option to set its jumpers to increase its sensitivity and make it
compatible with consumer level sources, but I have to open up the unit
to do that -- a big hassle.

It's only a hassle if have to do it often.

Which of these would be the best choice?

None of the above. If you want to avoid opening the ADC box all the time,
just set it for -10 dB sensitivity and use an external attenuator for
signals that are over -10 dB. The difference between -10 and |4 is about 12
dB. In most if not all cases, either a 10 dB or 15 dB attenuator will
suffice.

You can try mic attenuators, but they tend to be a little on the
low-impedance side for line-level signals.

Since the input to your DAC is XLR, the XLR format of mic attenuators does
have some romance.

You can either buy some 10 or 15 dB mic attenuators and rewire them with
resistors 5-10 times larger than what they come with, or you can buy
polarity inverters and rewire them with resistors instead of jumpers. The
usual attenuator like this is composed of 3 resistors. A 10 dB balanced is
approximated by 3 resistors with more-or-less the same value. 4.7 K strikes
me as a nice value.

There is supposedly a switchcraft part that is an XLR male-female shell, but
it seems to be a lot harder to find than ready-made attenuators or polarity
inverters. Typically, they all come apart and can be rewired pretty easily.

Michael Lauengco wrote:
I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC. I could make
a custom unbalanced-to-balanced cable for this, but the ADC expects +4
dBu input signal level so its sensitivity is too low. There is an
option to set its jumpers to increase its sensitivity and make it
compatible with consumer level sources, but I have to open up the unit
to do that -- a big hassle.

It's only a hassle if have to do it often.

Which of these would be the best choice?

None of the above. If you want to avoid opening the ADC box all the time,
just set it for -10 dB sensitivity and use an external attenuator for
signals that are over -10 dB. The difference between -10 and |4 is about 12
dB. In most if not all cases, either a 10 dB or 15 dB attenuator will
suffice.

You can try mic attenuators, but they tend to be a little on the
low-impedance side for line-level signals.

Since the input to your DAC is XLR, the XLR format of mic attenuators does
have some romance.

You can either buy some 10 or 15 dB mic attenuators and rewire them with
resistors 5-10 times larger than what they come with, or you can buy
polarity inverters and rewire them with resistors instead of jumpers. The
usual attenuator like this is composed of 3 resistors. A 10 dB balanced is
approximated by 3 resistors with more-or-less the same value. 4.7 K strikes
me as a nice value.

There is supposedly a switchcraft part that is an XLR male-female shell, but
it seems to be a lot harder to find than ready-made attenuators or polarity
inverters. Typically, they all come apart and can be rewired pretty easily.

In article writes:

I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC. I could make
a custom unbalanced-to-balanced cable for this, but the ADC expects +4
dBu input signal level so its sensitivity is too low. There is an
option to set its jumpers to increase its sensitivity and make it
compatible with consumer level sources, but I have to open up the unit
to do that -- a big hassle.

That's more hassle than buying or building an amplifier? Here's a
hint. You can buy a powered screwdriver for less than a line
amplifier, and it absolutely won't affect the sound quality.

Just open the case and change the jumpers.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers - )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

In article writes:

I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC. I could make
a custom unbalanced-to-balanced cable for this, but the ADC expects +4
dBu input signal level so its sensitivity is too low. There is an
option to set its jumpers to increase its sensitivity and make it
compatible with consumer level sources, but I have to open up the unit
to do that -- a big hassle.

That's more hassle than buying or building an amplifier? Here's a
hint. You can buy a powered screwdriver for less than a line
amplifier, and it absolutely won't affect the sound quality.

Just open the case and change the jumpers.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers - )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

In article writes:

I want to connect an unbalanced source (e.g., cassette deck output) to
the electronic balanced input of my Mytek Stereo96 ADC. I could make
a custom unbalanced-to-balanced cable for this, but the ADC expects +4
dBu input signal level so its sensitivity is too low. There is an
option to set its jumpers to increase its sensitivity and make it
compatible with consumer level sources, but I have to open up the unit
to do that -- a big hassle.

That's more hassle than buying or building an amplifier? Here's a
hint. You can buy a powered screwdriver for less than a line
amplifier, and it absolutely won't affect the sound quality.

Just open the case and change the jumpers.


--
I'm really Mike Rivers - )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

On Thu, 27 May 2004 07:15:28 -0400, "Arny Krueger"
wrote:

There is supposedly a switchcraft part that is an XLR male-female shell, but
it seems to be a lot harder to find than ready-made attenuators or polarity
inverters.

MCM sells them, but they're pretty dear. Silver contacts though.

Chris Hornbeck
"Art perhaps unfortunately is not the sphere of good intentions."
Pauline Kael 1956

On Thu, 27 May 2004 07:15:28 -0400, "Arny Krueger"
wrote:

There is supposedly a switchcraft part that is an XLR male-female shell, but
it seems to be a lot harder to find than ready-made attenuators or polarity
inverters.

MCM sells them, but they're pretty dear. Silver contacts though.

Chris Hornbeck
"Art perhaps unfortunately is not the sphere of good intentions."
Pauline Kael 1956

On Thu, 27 May 2004 07:15:28 -0400, "Arny Krueger"
wrote:

There is supposedly a switchcraft part that is an XLR male-female shell, but
it seems to be a lot harder to find than ready-made attenuators or polarity
inverters.

MCM sells them, but they're pretty dear. Silver contacts though.

Chris Hornbeck
"Art perhaps unfortunately is not the sphere of good intentions."
Pauline Kael 1956

"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...

There is supposedly a switchcraft part that is an XLR male-female shell,
but
it seems to be a lot harder to find than ready-made attenuators or
polarity
inverters. Typically, they all come apart and can be rewired pretty
easily.

Markertek used to sell those, although I haven't looked for them lately.

Hal Laurent
Baltimore

"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...

There is supposedly a switchcraft part that is an XLR male-female shell,
but
it seems to be a lot harder to find than ready-made attenuators or
polarity
inverters. Typically, they all come apart and can be rewired pretty
easily.

Markertek used to sell those, although I haven't looked for them lately.

Hal Laurent
Baltimore

"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...

There is supposedly a switchcraft part that is an XLR male-female shell,
but
it seems to be a lot harder to find than ready-made attenuators or
polarity
inverters. Typically, they all come apart and can be rewired pretty
easily.

Markertek used to sell those, although I haven't looked for them lately.

Hal Laurent
Baltimore

Hal Laurent wrote:
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...

There is supposedly a switchcraft part that is an XLR male-female
shell, but it seems to be a lot harder to find than ready-made
attenuators or polarity inverters. Typically, they all come apart
and can be rewired pretty easily.

Markertek used to sell those, although I haven't looked for them
lately.

I did, came up dry. I also just worked over MCM, and all I can say is that
they must keep them well hid.

When I had the need a few months ago, I found several online stores that
sold the Hosa polarity changer for way under $10 and picked up 4 for
inventory.

Hal Laurent wrote:
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...

There is supposedly a switchcraft part that is an XLR male-female
shell, but it seems to be a lot harder to find than ready-made
attenuators or polarity inverters. Typically, they all come apart
and can be rewired pretty easily.

Markertek used to sell those, although I haven't looked for them
lately.

I did, came up dry. I also just worked over MCM, and all I can say is that
they must keep them well hid.

When I had the need a few months ago, I found several online stores that
sold the Hosa polarity changer for way under $10 and picked up 4 for
inventory.

Hal Laurent wrote:
"Arny Krueger" wrote in message
...

There is supposedly a switchcraft part that is an XLR male-female
shell, but it seems to be a lot harder to find than ready-made
attenuators or polarity inverters. Typically, they all come apart
and can be rewired pretty easily.

Markertek used to sell those, although I haven't looked for them
lately.

I did, came up dry. I also just worked over MCM, and all I can say is that
they must keep them well hid.

When I had the need a few months ago, I found several online stores that
sold the Hosa polarity changer for way under $10 and picked up 4 for
inventory.

26 May 2004 20:27:29 -0700, suggested:
:
: 2. Use the DI inputs of a good, clean mic pre -- the FMR Audio RNP:
: http://www.fmraudio.com

You'll be glad to have the RNP as a preamp anyway, and it has a zero-gain
setting which is great for "balancing" an unbalanced source.

--
agreenbu @ nyx . net andrew michael greenburg

26 May 2004 20:27:29 -0700, suggested:
:
: 2. Use the DI inputs of a good, clean mic pre -- the FMR Audio RNP:
: http://www.fmraudio.com

You'll be glad to have the RNP as a preamp anyway, and it has a zero-gain
setting which is great for "balancing" an unbalanced source.

--
agreenbu @ nyx . net andrew michael greenburg

26 May 2004 20:27:29 -0700, suggested:
:
: 2. Use the DI inputs of a good, clean mic pre -- the FMR Audio RNP:
: http://www.fmraudio.com

You'll be glad to have the RNP as a preamp anyway, and it has a zero-gain
setting which is great for "balancing" an unbalanced source.

--
agreenbu @ nyx . net andrew michael greenburg

On Thu, 27 May 2004 15:31:18 -0400, "Arny Krueger"
wrote:

I did, came up dry. I also just worked over MCM, and all I can say is that
they must keep them well hid.

MCM's part number is 101-069, but dealing with their website
is fraught with peril.

Good fortune,

Chris Hornbeck

On Thu, 27 May 2004 15:31:18 -0400, "Arny Krueger"
wrote:

I did, came up dry. I also just worked over MCM, and all I can say is that
they must keep them well hid.

MCM's part number is 101-069, but dealing with their website
is fraught with peril.

Good fortune,

Chris Hornbeck

On Thu, 27 May 2004 15:31:18 -0400, "Arny Krueger"
wrote:

I did, came up dry. I also just worked over MCM, and all I can say is that
they must keep them well hid.

MCM's part number is 101-069, but dealing with their website
is fraught with peril.

Good fortune,

Chris Hornbeck

Actually, the best -10 to +4 or reverse (both ways) box is the Martinsound
BalancerMAX. Absolutely quiet and clean.

Actually, the best -10 to +4 or reverse (both ways) box is the Martinsound
BalancerMAX. Absolutely quiet and clean.

Actually, the best -10 to +4 or reverse (both ways) box is the Martinsound
BalancerMAX. Absolutely quiet and clean.

Chris Hornbeck wrote:
On Thu, 27 May 2004 15:31:18 -0400, "Arny Krueger"
wrote:

I did, came up dry. I also just worked over MCM, and all I can say
is that they must keep them well hid.

MCM's part number is 101-069, but dealing with their website
is fraught with peril.

Yep, there it is:

SWITCHCRAFT S3FM OR 26F721 XLR QUICK GROUND ADAPTOR


Using that, I stumbled onto this page:

http://www.ethanwiner.com/gadgets.html which has the schematic, the
equations, the whole enchelada.

Chris Hornbeck wrote:
On Thu, 27 May 2004 15:31:18 -0400, "Arny Krueger"
wrote:

I did, came up dry. I also just worked over MCM, and all I can say
is that they must keep them well hid.

MCM's part number is 101-069, but dealing with their website
is fraught with peril.

Yep, there it is:

SWITCHCRAFT S3FM OR 26F721 XLR QUICK GROUND ADAPTOR


Using that, I stumbled onto this page:

http://www.ethanwiner.com/gadgets.html which has the schematic, the
equations, the whole enchelada.

Chris Hornbeck wrote:
On Thu, 27 May 2004 15:31:18 -0400, "Arny Krueger"
wrote:

I did, came up dry. I also just worked over MCM, and all I can say
is that they must keep them well hid.

MCM's part number is 101-069, but dealing with their website
is fraught with peril.

Yep, there it is:

SWITCHCRAFT S3FM OR 26F721 XLR QUICK GROUND ADAPTOR


Using that, I stumbled onto this page:

http://www.ethanwiner.com/gadgets.html which has the schematic, the
equations, the whole enchelada.