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Alun P
 
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Default Wharfedale

I have just been given a set of Wharfedale 306 speakers. I know they are
about 10 years old but in absolutely superb condition, take off the covers
and the drivers are immaculate, they sound superb from my Pioneer amp,
however, I have E-maled Wharfedale and, to date, not received a reply, so
can anyone tell me what i have got here?????

what impedance, power handling etc?

They are three way, bass mid and HF, wood cabinets with a cloth removable
cover. Under the cover the face is cream.

thanks

AlunP

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Jerry G.
 
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If you put an ohm meter across the main driver, if you get a reading of
about 7 to 9 ohms, this would be an 8 ohm speaker unit. If the meter reads
about 3 to 5 ohms, this would be a 4 ohm unit. If the meter reads about 5 to
7 ohms, it should be a 6 ohm unit. Most of these were 8 ohm speaker units.

Did you try to look up the model of your speakers using Google, or some
other good search engine. You may find some specs on them, or someone who
may know.

Many of these companies are overloaded with emails asking a lot of
questions. If you go to their site, look for a phone number. It may be well
worth the small cost to call them directly. This is what I usually do.

--

Jerry G.
=====

"Alun P" alun.priddle@NOSPAMblueyonderDOTcoDOTuk wrote in message
...
I have just been given a set of Wharfedale 306 speakers. I know they are
about 10 years old but in absolutely superb condition, take off the covers
and the drivers are immaculate, they sound superb from my Pioneer amp,
however, I have E-maled Wharfedale and, to date, not received a reply, so
can anyone tell me what i have got here?????

what impedance, power handling etc?

They are three way, bass mid and HF, wood cabinets with a cloth removable
cover. Under the cover the face is cream.

thanks

AlunP



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MZ
 
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If the meter reads about 5 to
7 ohms, it should be a 6 ohm unit.


A 5 to 7 ohm DCR would tend to imply a nominal 8 ohm driver, would it not?


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Jerry G.
 
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If the driver reads about 7 to 9 ohms, I would take it being an 8 ohm
unit. Of it reads at about 5 to 6 ohms, I would think the speaker to be
a 6 ohm unit.

Usually the DC ohms reading is close to the actual impedance. This has
to do with the resistance of the wire, and not with the reactance of it.

--

Jerry G.
======

"MZ" wrote in message
...
If the meter reads about 5 to
7 ohms, it should be a 6 ohm unit.


A 5 to 7 ohm DCR would tend to imply a nominal 8 ohm driver, would it
not?



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MZ
 
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If the driver reads about 7 to 9 ohms, I would take it being an 8 ohm
unit. Of it reads at about 5 to 6 ohms, I would think the speaker to be
a 6 ohm unit.

Usually the DC ohms reading is close to the actual impedance. This has
to do with the resistance of the wire, and not with the reactance of it.


IME, the nominal impedance is always higher than the measured DCR.




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Stewart Pinkerton
 
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On Wed, 1 Dec 2004 12:54:58 -0500, "MZ"
wrote:

If the driver reads about 7 to 9 ohms, I would take it being an 8 ohm
unit. Of it reads at about 5 to 6 ohms, I would think the speaker to be
a 6 ohm unit.

Usually the DC ohms reading is close to the actual impedance. This has
to do with the resistance of the wire, and not with the reactance of it.


IME, the nominal impedance is always higher than the measured DCR.


It ain't going to be lower, that's for sure! :-)
--

Stewart Pinkerton | Music is Art - Audio is Engineering
  #7   Report Post  
TonyP
 
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"Stewart Pinkerton" wrote in message
...
IME, the nominal impedance is always higher than the measured DCR.


It ain't going to be lower, that's for sure! :-)


Since "nominal" impedance is just that, a manufacturer could state a figure
lower than DCR if he wanted to. Considering all the other BS they are
prepared to quote, it's not impossible. Not very common though, that's for
sure.

TonyP.


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