Was thinking about getting some subs and this is what i was thinking about
getting. 2 MTX Thunder 8500 10" subwoofers.
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...hunder8500.cfm
Which model is the better model and why? T8510-44 pr T8510-04


What would be a good amp to go with these?

Good choice! I have a pair of 12" MTX one model down from yours, the 7500
(the MXS series are the same as 7500, just silver instead of black), you can
see them in my car at: http://www428.pair.com/mosfet/mtx.html

I think they look really cool mounted "backwards" as I have done. It
doesn't effect the sound at all and I would suggest doing the same.

You DEFINITELY need a Class D amp. MTX makes an AWESOME line of Class D
amps as well as subs. I know there is no reason why you HAVE to also use
MTX, but why not?

MOSFET

"Fenny" wrote in message
...
Was thinking about getting some subs and this is what i was thinking about
getting. 2 MTX Thunder 8500 10" subwoofers.
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...hunder8500.cfm
Which model is the better model and why? T8510-44 pr T8510-04


What would be a good amp to go with these?

MOSFET... i wanted to ask you....
i just noticed your amp ratings for your Midbass....
JL VR series( i read from their site) is capable of 60W RMS and your
driving these with almost the double the power.... (112W RMS).... so is
other speakers... (Kenwood X168 6.5" capable of 50W RMS and driving
them at 90W RMS)
wouldnt this fry your speakers??

MOSFET wrote:
Good choice! I have a pair of 12" MTX one model down from yours, the 7500
(the MXS series are the same as 7500, just silver instead of black), you can
see them in my car at: http://www428.pair.com/mosfet/mtx.html

I think they look really cool mounted "backwards" as I have done. It
doesn't effect the sound at all and I would suggest doing the same.

You DEFINITELY need a Class D amp. MTX makes an AWESOME line of Class D
amps as well as subs. I know there is no reason why you HAVE to also use
MTX, but why not?

MOSFET

"Fenny" wrote in message
...
Was thinking about getting some subs and this is what i was thinking about
getting. 2 MTX Thunder 8500 10" subwoofers.
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...hunder8500.cfm
Which model is the better model and why? T8510-44 pr T8510-04


What would be a good amp to go with these?

May be the gains are not set to full. This guy always misses some
information for us to ask the details. No offence might!


"anToNIcHeN" wrote in message
ups.com...
| MOSFET... i wanted to ask you....
| i just noticed your amp ratings for your Midbass....
| JL VR series( i read from their site) is capable of 60W RMS and your
| driving these with almost the double the power.... (112W RMS).... so is
| other speakers... (Kenwood X168 6.5" capable of 50W RMS and driving
| them at 90W RMS)
| wouldnt this fry your speakers??
|
| MOSFET wrote:
| Good choice! I have a pair of 12" MTX one model down from yours, the
7500
| (the MXS series are the same as 7500, just silver instead of black), you
can
| see them in my car at: http://www428.pair.com/mosfet/mtx.html
|
| I think they look really cool mounted "backwards" as I have done. It
| doesn't effect the sound at all and I would suggest doing the same.
|
| You DEFINITELY need a Class D amp. MTX makes an AWESOME line of Class D
| amps as well as subs. I know there is no reason why you HAVE to also
use
| MTX, but why not?
|
| MOSFET
|
| "Fenny" wrote in message
| ...
| Was thinking about getting some subs and this is what i was thinking
about
| getting. 2 MTX Thunder 8500 10" subwoofers.
| http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...hunder8500.cfm
| Which model is the better model and why? T8510-44 pr T8510-04
|
|
| What would be a good amp to go with these?
|
|

Hasn't fried them yet. Plus, I have the high-pass filter set on my HU for
the fronts at 80 Hz (with a 24 dB cut-off per octave) so very LITTLE bass
will get to them. But I appreciate you taking the time to notice that
detail.

MOSFET

"anToNIcHeN" wrote in message
ups.com...
MOSFET... i wanted to ask you....
i just noticed your amp ratings for your Midbass....
JL VR series( i read from their site) is capable of 60W RMS and your
driving these with almost the double the power.... (112W RMS).... so is
other speakers... (Kenwood X168 6.5" capable of 50W RMS and driving
them at 90W RMS)
wouldnt this fry your speakers??

MOSFET wrote:
Good choice! I have a pair of 12" MTX one model down from yours, the
7500
(the MXS series are the same as 7500, just silver instead of black), you
can
see them in my car at: http://www428.pair.com/mosfet/mtx.html

I think they look really cool mounted "backwards" as I have done. It
doesn't effect the sound at all and I would suggest doing the same.

You DEFINITELY need a Class D amp. MTX makes an AWESOME line of Class D
amps as well as subs. I know there is no reason why you HAVE to also use
MTX, but why not?

MOSFET

"Fenny" wrote in message
...
Was thinking about getting some subs and this is what i was thinking
about
getting. 2 MTX Thunder 8500 10" subwoofers.
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...hunder8500.cfm
Which model is the better model and why? T8510-44 pr T8510-04


What would be a good amp to go with these?

..googlegroups.com...
MOSFET... i wanted to ask you....
i just noticed your amp ratings for your Midbass....
JL VR series( i read from their site) is capable of 60W RMS and your
driving these with almost the double the power.... (112W RMS).... so is
other speakers... (Kenwood X168 6.5" capable of 50W RMS and driving
them at 90W RMS)
wouldnt this fry your speakers??

Just to elaborate a little more on your question...

I frankly would be perfectly comfortable using a 200 watt RMS amp for my
JL's or my Kenwoods. I remember (like it was yesterday) 16 years ago when I
was buying my first system and asked the salesman that very same question.
I'll never forget what he said: "don't worry, your speakers will cry for
help before they are damaged". In other words, your speakers will begin to
distort BEFORE they reach their breaking point. I am careful NOT to let my
speakers distort because as you correctly pointed out, I COULD destroy those
speakers with the amps that I have connected to them. Of course, this is
not difficult as distortion sounds TERRIBLE and if I hear it I QUICKLY turn
something down.

I purposefully choose a very powerful amp to drive my front midbass
speakers. And no, it was not just about being able to play them really
loud. Having lots of power on tap can give your music dynamic punch (no pun
intended). Even though those speakers are rated at 60 watts RMS, they can
take MUCH more in very short bursts. These short bursts are what can give
your music that extra kick. This is ESPECIALLY true in the midbass region
where you have the snare-drum and the higher harmonics of the bass drum.
Having LOTS of power on tap helps create a much more realistic sound
impression, and I'm not just talking about high volumes, even at moderate
volume levels, these large power reserves can make a difference in the
dynamic nature of your music. It is dynamics, IMHO, not just basic high
SPL's, that separate the good systems from the great systems. REALLY GOOD
DYNAMICS (the difference between loud and quite parts of a song) are what
helps create the impression of a live performance.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that, IMHO, there is no such thing as too
much power. If I were shopping for an amp to power my speakers, I wouldn't
care about the speaker manufacturer's power rating. The exception to this
rule might be with subwoofers, however. It is much more difficult to hear
when subwoofers are distorting (especially if they are in a bandpass type
enclosure). I guess when it comes to subs, I DO make sure my amp power does
not exceed the rated subwoofer power (at least not by much). But with other
speakers, your ears will let you know if you are driving them too hard.

MOSFET

"MOSFET" wrote in message
m...
.googlegroups.com...
MOSFET... i wanted to ask you....
i just noticed your amp ratings for your Midbass....
JL VR series( i read from their site) is capable of 60W RMS and your
driving these with almost the double the power.... (112W RMS).... so is
other speakers... (Kenwood X168 6.5" capable of 50W RMS and driving
them at 90W RMS)
wouldnt this fry your speakers??

Just to elaborate a little more on your question...

I frankly would be perfectly comfortable using a 200 watt RMS amp for my
JL's or my Kenwoods. I remember (like it was yesterday) 16 years ago when
I was buying my first system and asked the salesman that very same
question. I'll never forget what he said: "don't worry, your speakers will
cry for help before they are damaged". In other words, your speakers will
begin to distort BEFORE they reach their breaking point. I am careful NOT
to let my speakers distort because as you correctly pointed out, I COULD
destroy those speakers with the amps that I have connected to them. Of
course, this is not difficult as distortion sounds TERRIBLE and if I hear
it I QUICKLY turn something down.



That's kinda right and kinda wrong. If you have your system set up with
proper filtering it is still very possible to reach the thermal limits of
the drivers before distortion occurs, in fact at this point the distortion
will be the beginning of the end as the glue on the former heats up, the
coil expands and the driver begins to rub. Mechanical distortion or cone
breakup does not always occur as the VC of the driver reaches the
temperature of the surface of the sun (joking on the temp thing).

Another thing to consider is that mechanical limits cannot always be heard.
Before the Alpine and steep slopes I could have easily chewed up one of my
seas drivers because I said, "hmmmm that kick drum did not sound that clicky
when I RECORDED IT" If I had not recorded it and knew the sound of the kick
I would not have known I was bottoming out the driver. A little adjustment
in XO freq and the problem was solved but it could have been damaging if I
had just bought a new CD and was hammering it just thinking it was a clicky
kick (BTW Seas CA18RNX drivers sound just like batter "click" when they
bottom out )

As of now I am crossing at 63Hz at 24dB an octave and have no problems. The
Seas have hella excursion for a mid/bass.

Another thing to consider is that today's popular music has absolutely NO
dynamic range, meaning that the average power level going to the drive is
much higher than it was when music actually had dynamics. This further
compounds the problem of :

A: not hearing distortion due to the cacophony of sound barraging your
cerebellum and

B: Not having distortion and having higher average power levels overheating
the coil.

This is why in pro rigs there are RMS limiters and peak limiters....

Chad