Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Help: Non-working Speakers
Someone asked me to attempt to fix an audio problem with a unique
video game system that has internal speakers that do not work at all. But the system has connections for external speakers. And only one of the two external speakers will work depending on what game PCB is plugged into the system. http://www.massystems.com/SuperNova.html I don't think the problem stems from the game PCBs that hook up to the system, and was hoping that someone can tell me how to confirm that all involved leads are carrying signals(using a multimeter). I need to test the wiring for the internal speakers, as well as any external speakers that can be plugged into the system. Thanks a lot. Darren |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Help: Non-working Speakers
Does anyone know how to make sure the correct signals are traveling
through all leads and junctions? All I know is that there is no audio for the internal speakers. Thanks. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Help: Non-working Speakers
OK, I'll bite on this one. I don't think you are going to have
much luck with the multimeter approach, unless you have some control over what the signals are. A loud, steady tone or buzz might register, but many game effects are too transient to see on a meter. A scope is the tool of choice for stuff like this, especially because the problem may be farther upstream than the speaker leads. It might be a bad amp or volume control, in which case the levels will be much too low for anything but a scope. I used my multimeter to check for continuity between the harness edge connector that the PCBs plaug into and the system speakers along with the external speakers. I'd like to diagram it with ASCII, but wouldn't know how to do that here, because it would just show up all garbled. But I can send a diagram showing the set-up(and continuity) to anyone who wants to see it. The system has the red and white outputs for speakers. As well as some sort of conversion PCB for playing those arcade games(made to be used with arcade monitors) on a PC monitor, and an S-Video output also. You mention that one speaker works under some conditions. Here's an idea: Get a pair of headphones and put a resistor in series with the hot leads, about 1K to 10K range, just so you don't blast your ears out. Then check how that sounds on the working channel at various points in the chain from the amp to the speaker. Compare to the non-working channel. I would know how to do all that. But four different game PCBs(which equate to four different amps) were tried. If the audio of all four work when wither oif them are plugged into an acutal arcade cabinet should they all work or not work with this particular system? My first suspicion in this sort of thing is upstream of the speakers, like the power amp or volume control (if any). The headphone tester might not be sensitive enough there, but worth a shot. Then consider unsoldering and swapping inputs to the power amp channels... if the other speaker starts working, the problem was upstream of the amp. If not, the amp channel is probably bad. I'll ahve to go back there and see what I can find out. Thanks a lot. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Help: Non-working Speakers
Okay.
The problem is definitely not the amps or speaker controls on any of the four game PCBs. I tested each of these boards in a full sized arcade cabinet, and the audio works perfectly on all of them. The external speakers also work perfectly when hooked up to a stereo. That means the problem is somewhere in the *harness* of the "MAS system", from the PCB connector(where leads for positive and negative audio, as well as ground originate) to the (red and white)speaker outputs. There is nothing else in the loop. So now I'm wondering if the system was wired incorrectly. I'm going to try resoldering what is there and perhaps swap some wires for new ones, but can anyone point me to a diagram that shows how things should be wired between the connector(that attaches to the game PCBs) and the speaker outputs, along with how ground is supposed to hooked up also? I'm a newbie at this, and really know nothing). THanks a lot. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Help: Non-working Speakers
Darren Harris wrote:
Okay. The problem is definitely not the amps or speaker controls on any of the four game PCBs. I tested each of these boards in a full sized arcade cabinet, and the audio works perfectly on all of them. The external speakers also work perfectly when hooked up to a stereo. That means the problem is somewhere in the *harness* of the "MAS system", from the PCB connector(where leads for positive and negative audio, as well as ground originate) to the (red and white)speaker outputs. There is nothing else in the loop. So now I'm wondering if the system was wired incorrectly. I'm going to try resoldering what is there and perhaps swap some wires for new ones, but can anyone point me to a diagram that shows how things should be wired between the connector(that attaches to the game PCBs) and the speaker outputs, along with how ground is supposed to hooked up also? I'm a newbie at this, and really know nothing). While you're waiting, you could always trace the actual wires. Good Luck! Rich |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Help: Non-working Speakers
While you're waiting, you could always trace the actual wires.
I have no idea what you mean by that. I know where each wire originates and ends, but like I said, I need to find out if it is wired correctly. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Help: Non-working Speakers
On 28 Jul 2004 06:54:04 -0700, (Darren Harris)
wrote: While you're waiting, you could always trace the actual wires. I have no idea what you mean by that. I know where each wire originates and ends, but like I said, I need to find out if it is wired correctly. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. Have you compared where each wire originates and ends with where each wire *should* originate and end? d Pearce Consulting http://www.pearce.uk.com |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Help: Non-working Speakers
Have you compared where each wire originates and ends with where each
wire *should* originate and end? There is no way to do that if I don't now where each wire is supposed to go. So far no one has been able to tell me. 1) At one end of the audio harness is the PCB connector. A)Pin-10 = positive audio, B)Pin-L = negative audio, and C)Pin-27 = audio ground. ***Three wires are supposed to originate at those three pins. But how are they supposed to run to the following? 2) On the other side are the speaker, and also the two outputs for external speakers. If anyone wants a jpeg diagram that illustrates what I just said, please let me know. Thanks a lot. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Help: Non-working Speakers
Darren Harris wrote:
While you're waiting, you could always trace the actual wires. I have no idea what you mean by that. I know where each wire originates and ends, but like I said, I need to find out if it is wired correctly. You know where each wire _is supposed to_ begin and end, but do the physical wires actually complete the circuit? By "trace the wires" I mean, physically, get down, cut the tie wraps, and visually examine the wires themselves. Look for breaks, shorts, anything abnormal. A cold solder joint on an edge connector would give you those symptoms, and it takes some careful inspection to spot them. But from what you've described, the only thing _left_ is the actual wires (and their connections.) Good Luck! Rich |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Help: Non-working Speakers
Rich Grise wrote in message . ..
Darren Harris wrote: While you're waiting, you could always trace the actual wires. I have no idea what you mean by that. I know where each wire originates and ends, but like I said, I need to find out if it is wired correctly. You know where each wire _is supposed to_ begin and end, but do the physical wires actually complete the circuit? By "trace the wires" I mean, physically, get down, cut the tie wraps, and visually examine the wires themselves. Look for breaks, shorts, anything abnormal. A cold solder joint on an edge connector would give you those symptoms, and it takes some careful inspection to spot them. But from what you've described, the only thing _left_ is the actual wires (and their connections.) I know all that. This is what I've been saying. I've inspected all of the wires already, and have a crimp tool, wires, and pins for swapping out for new ones. But none of this makes a difference if it is not wired correctly to begin with. ***I just need someone who knows how speakers are *supposed* to be wired to show me so I can determine if this System's audio is wired correctly. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Help: Non-working Speakers
I've inspected all of the wires already, and have a crimp tool, wires,
and pins for swapping out for new ones. But none of this makes a difference if it is not wired correctly to begin with. ***I just need someone who knows how speakers are *supposed* to be wired to show me so I can determine if this System's audio is wired correctly. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. To better illustrate how the audio portion is wired: ***Starting at the PCB connector, there are three leads/pins. A) A ground pin(for audio). Goes directly to white external output. From this point another wire goes to the positive audio of the system's speaker. B) A Positive(+) audio pin. Goes directly to the red external output. C) A negative(-) audio pin. Goes directly to a soldered area *in between* and shared by both the red and the white external outputs. From this point another wire goes to the negative audio of the system's speaker. Can anyone tell me if all this is correct? If it is, I'll have to swap out all the wiring and put in new wires the same way.(And/or get a different speaker). Thanks a lot. Darren Harris Staten Island, New York. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Help: Non-working Speakers
Darren Harris wrote:
To better illustrate how the audio portion is wired: ***Starting at the PCB connector, there are three leads/pins. A) A ground pin(for audio). Goes directly to white external output. From this point another wire goes to the positive audio of the system's speaker. B) A Positive(+) audio pin. Goes directly to the red external output. C) A negative(-) audio pin. Goes directly to a soldered area *in between* and shared by both the red and the white external outputs. From this point another wire goes to the negative audio of the system's speaker. I can't figure out what you're trying to describe here. What does "shared by both the red and the white external outputs" mean, for example? What are "A ground, a positive audio, a negative audio" pins? Do you have any documentation that tells you which two of these are supposed to be connected to the two speaker terminals? Do you have any kind of wiring diagram or anything? The audio outputs should go to the speakers. What aren't you telling us? Thanks, Rich |
Reply |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Bose 901 Review | General | |||
Regarding: 6 speakers 1 powered mixer | Pro Audio | |||
Main speakers with builtin subwoofer - How to configure receiver? | Audio Opinions | |||
Help needed in selecting amp and speakers | Audio Opinions | |||
Remote speakers? L-pads? Totally confused! | General |