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#1
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blown amp?
I have a JVC KD-S890. I take it that the component presed right up against the heat sink is the amp. I'm guessing that the scorch marks around it on the PCB means the amp is fried. Is this the case?
The unitturns on and plays a CD fine, but no sound comes out no matter what I try. |
#2
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
look steve, this is a $400 amp 1 minute. pick of junk the next
hobby..thats why i buy extra amps when i see them cheap.. stop ya crying. you can buy a good cerwin vega amp $85.... cheaper than fixin the burnt up piece of junk ya have. oh n steve. youll get use to that happening around the 3rd time....lol |
#3
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
oh steve, you should correct ya post.. its you ''had'' a jvc
amp.......sorry. |
#4
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
I can see that whole words are a difficult concept for you so I'll try to
put it into terms you can understand. A JVC KD-S890 is a head unit. Inside theres a part that makes the signals stronger. There's scorch marks around it on the circuit board. (still with me?) Is the head unit junk or can this be repaired? "bob wald" wrote in message ... look steve, this is a $400 amp 1 minute. pick of junk the next hobby..thats why i buy extra amps when i see them cheap.. stop ya crying. you can buy a good cerwin vega amp $85.... cheaper than fixin the burnt up piece of junk ya have. oh n steve. youll get use to that happening around the 3rd time....lol |
#5
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
lol..''was'' a head unit.... you seem not to want to face the facts.....
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#6
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
Steve wrote:
I have a JVC KD-S890. I take it that the component presed right up against the heat sink is the amp. I'm guessing that the scorch marks around it on the PCB means the amp is fried. Is this the case? The unitturns on and plays a CD fine, but no sound comes out no matter what I try. Although your head unit can be repaired, I would recommend replacing it. Park Ave Electronics has one for $109.78 he http://www.parkaveelectronics.com/pr...S890&l=Froogle You would be hard pressed to get anything repaired for less than that. Hell, one of the electronics shops in town requires a $150 deposit before they will even look at anything. If the repair is less, they refund you the difference. There are VERY FEW instances where the repair is less than $150! If you were looking to upgrade, now may be a good time OR you can just replace with the same head unit, then plug in and go! -Chris |
#7
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
In article , ChrisB wrote:
Steve wrote: I have a JVC KD-S890. I take it that the component presed right up against the heat sink is the amp. I'm guessing that the scorch marks around it on the PCB means the amp is fried. Is this the case? The unitturns on and plays a CD fine, but no sound comes out no matter what I try. Although your head unit can be repaired, I would recommend replacing it. Park Ave Electronics has one for $109.78 he http://www.parkaveelectronics.com/pr...S890&l=Froogle You would be hard pressed to get anything repaired for less than that. Hell, one of the electronics shops in town requires a $150 deposit before they will even look at anything. If the repair is less, they refund you the difference. There are VERY FEW instances where the repair is less than $150! If you were looking to upgrade, now may be a good time OR you can just replace with the same head unit, then plug in and go! -Chris Wow prices are crazy. I need a new HU for my truck, its broke, but it needs a subwoofer low pass out to drive the sub. I bought that crazy Pioneer HU for $450 in 93 and a $300 CD changer. The Hu gave me problems early on. I also spent $55 for the manual. That was an $800 system plus amps. greg |
#8
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
GregS wrote:
In article , ChrisB wrote: Steve wrote: I have a JVC KD-S890. I take it that the component presed right up against the heat sink is the amp. I'm guessing that the scorch marks around it on the PCB means the amp is fried. Is this the case? The unitturns on and plays a CD fine, but no sound comes out no matter what I try. Although your head unit can be repaired, I would recommend replacing it. Park Ave Electronics has one for $109.78 he http://www.parkaveelectronics.com/pr...S890&l=Froogle You would be hard pressed to get anything repaired for less than that. Hell, one of the electronics shops in town requires a $150 deposit before they will even look at anything. If the repair is less, they refund you the difference. There are VERY FEW instances where the repair is less than $150! If you were looking to upgrade, now may be a good time OR you can just replace with the same head unit, then plug in and go! -Chris Wow prices are crazy. I need a new HU for my truck, its broke, but it needs a subwoofer low pass out to drive the sub. I bought that crazy Pioneer HU for $450 in 93 and a $300 CD changer. The Hu gave me problems early on. I also spent $55 for the manual. That was an $800 system plus amps. greg Yeah, tell me about it! I replaced the Skipper 500 Head Unit in my 2006 Mustang GT with an Alpine CDA-9885 from Crutchfield for a whopping $250 and they included the IPOD cable and installation kit. When the head unit in the 1997 Civic started giving me problems, I went to Crutchfield again, and purchased another CDA-9885 for it at the same price with everything included. Hell, in January 2000, I remember paying $600 for a pre-amp only Alpine deck that couldn't do half of what these can do! As of late, my new attitude is to say screw CD changers. An 80 Gigabyte IPOD kicks ass, especially when you encode your music in Apple Lossless format! Another plus is that I saw the light when I used to DJ and ripped all my music at 320 kbps, so those MP3s sound pretty dang good too. Oh well, I went off on a tangent, but yes, I am amazed at how prices have come down myself! -Chris |
#9
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
ohh please.. stop..i used a box of kleenex already...lol
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#10
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
I've never been inside that HU, but if you can post the markings on the IC,
I might be able to point you in the right direction for a replacement. A digital photo would be helpful too. No guarantee's, but the amplifier IC is usually pretty cheap and from what you describe, is likely to be the only thing damaged. Chris "Steve" wrote in message ... I have a JVC KD-S890. I take it that the component presed right up against the heat sink is the amp. I'm guessing that the scorch marks around it on the PCB means the amp is fried. Is this the case? The unitturns on and plays a CD fine, but no sound comes out no matter what I try. |
#11
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
bob wald wrote:
ohh please.. stop..i used a box of kleenex already...lol and some guy named Bob ended up with my Sherwood amps (sniff, sniff)... On a serious note, I am amazed at what you get for the price these days compared to the insane prices I managed to pay for equipment in the late 80s and early 90s. I guess technological advances and moving manufacturing to countries with slave labor wages has its advantages... |
#12
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
i only buy new....now go cry some more.....
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#13
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
bob wald wrote:
i only buy new....now go cry some more..... I actually purchased a Rockford Fosgate Power 1000 25 to Life amp today on closeout for less than 1/3 of the retail price! I will let you know how I like it as soon as I figure out what sub I am going to put in my 2006 Mustang GT. Do you have any thoughts on the new Hifonics Zeus series amps? I am thinking about getting one for my 1997 Civic EX. Again, I need to figure out what sub I want to put in it. |
#14
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
rf.....lol isnt rf power hogs????
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#15
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
bob wald wrote:
rf.....lol isnt rf power hogs???? Yeah, but this price was too good to pass up! In 1990, I paid MORE for a Punch 150 than I paid for this brand new Power 1000 25 to Life amp! |
#16
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
always wanted to try the hifonics amps..but again...just wasnt in the
cards..i bought boss instead......lol hifonics looked kinda too big. i bought acouple boss ''riots'' amps... loved the see thur windows....lol |
#17
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
bob wald wrote:
always wanted to try the hifonics amps..but again...just wasnt in the cards..i bought boss instead......lol hifonics looked kinda too big. i bought acouple boss ''riots'' amps... loved the see thur windows....lol I am going to get one within the next 3 months or so. They seem to be a pretty good value for the price you pay. |
#18
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
yeah n a 5-6 warrenty! or use to have it...
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#19
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
I have not come in contact with any "cheap" internal amplifier chips.
Especially if you go through a parts supplier. I use to repair stuff on a regular basis and now and again to this day. The IC's that Pioneer stereos use are always pricey at $50 or more. I've come across a few "close out" deals on some older chips but most of the mosfets used in today's stuff seem to be considered gold when it comes to prices that are charged for them. Add in a repair shops inflated labor costs and you might as well just purchase a new unit. With that said if you need one I have a few 100 "older" head-units available or if you want to attempt the repair yourself I may be able to scrounge up an IC for ya if you let me know the labeling on it. I don't want to go dig up my service manual that is in storage to find the info. As for doing it yourself a lot of today's stereos have 3-layers of circuit board traces and most of the time you damage the inner layer when removing the IC if you don't have the proper tools or a LOT of luck. "Christopher Ott" chrisott at ottelectronics dot com wrote in message ... I've never been inside that HU, but if you can post the markings on the IC, I might be able to point you in the right direction for a replacement. A digital photo would be helpful too. No guarantee's, but the amplifier IC is usually pretty cheap and from what you describe, is likely to be the only thing damaged. Chris "Steve" wrote in message ... I have a JVC KD-S890. I take it that the component presed right up against the heat sink is the amp. I'm guessing that the scorch marks around it on the PCB means the amp is fried. Is this the case? The unitturns on and plays a CD fine, but no sound comes out no matter what I try. |
#20
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
Huh? I just repaired a top of the line 300W Sony ES home power amp with
a STK class A driver IC that cost all of $5.98 on Ebay. You telling me the ouput IC in a $179 Pioneer HU is going to cost 10X what this bigger driver IC in an expensive home amp sells for? Give me a part number! JD Barry & Nikki wrote: I have not come in contact with any "cheap" internal amplifier chips. Especially if you go through a parts supplier. I use to repair stuff on a regular basis and now and again to this day. The IC's that Pioneer stereos use are always pricey at $50 or more. I've come across a few "close out" deals on some older chips but most of the mosfets used in today's stuff seem to be considered gold when it comes to prices that are charged for them. Add in a repair shops inflated labor costs and you might as well just purchase a new unit. With that said if you need one I have a few 100 "older" head-units available or if you want to attempt the repair yourself I may be able to scrounge up an IC for ya if you let me know the labeling on it. I don't want to go dig up my service manual that is in storage to find the info. As for doing it yourself a lot of today's stereos have 3-layers of circuit board traces and most of the time you damage the inner layer when removing the IC if you don't have the proper tools or a LOT of luck. "Christopher Ott" chrisott at ottelectronics dot com wrote in message ... I've never been inside that HU, but if you can post the markings on the IC, I might be able to point you in the right direction for a replacement. A digital photo would be helpful too. No guarantee's, but the amplifier IC is usually pretty cheap and from what you describe, is likely to be the only thing damaged. Chris "Steve" wrote in message .. . I have a JVC KD-S890. I take it that the component presed right up against the heat sink is the amp. I'm guessing that the scorch marks around it on the PCB means the amp is fried. Is this the case? The unitturns on and plays a CD fine, but no sound comes out no matter what I try. ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
#21
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
I said if you go through a parts supplier. I don't consider Greedbay a parts
supplier. I have gotten deals on Greedbay however like the one that you mention. Greedbay though is a HUGE market for knock-off/fake IC's that are a heck of a lot less stable and unreliable than name brand.Yes I am saying your $179 Pioneer HU can cost you quite a bit to replace a blown chip. I bet that IC you purchased would be at least in the $30 or up range. Luckily I have not had to replace any as of late but I know about two year ago Pacific Coast Parts wanted $59 for a PAL004A. Luckily I did find it's alternative on Greedbay. Just because a part is larger than another does not determine it to be more expensive. If you want to look up a part look up the PAL007A on Greedbay; its even $27 then scroll down and look what one seller wants and pleads to get for his/her PAL005A. WOW someone must be desperate if they want to pay that price. Heck I have a few I'd sell someone for 1/2 that "John Durbin" wrote in message ... Huh? I just repaired a top of the line 300W Sony ES home power amp with a STK class A driver IC that cost all of $5.98 on Ebay. You telling me the ouput IC in a $179 Pioneer HU is going to cost 10X what this bigger driver IC in an expensive home amp sells for? Give me a part number! JD Barry & Nikki wrote: I have not come in contact with any "cheap" internal amplifier chips. Especially if you go through a parts supplier. I use to repair stuff on a regular basis and now and again to this day. The IC's that Pioneer stereos use are always pricey at $50 or more. I've come across a few "close out" deals on some older chips but most of the mosfets used in today's stuff seem to be considered gold when it comes to prices that are charged for them. Add in a repair shops inflated labor costs and you might as well just purchase a new unit. With that said if you need one I have a few 100 "older" head-units available or if you want to attempt the repair yourself I may be able to scrounge up an IC for ya if you let me know the labeling on it. I don't want to go dig up my service manual that is in storage to find the info. As for doing it yourself a lot of today's stereos have 3-layers of circuit board traces and most of the time you damage the inner layer when removing the IC if you don't have the proper tools or a LOT of luck. "Christopher Ott" chrisott at ottelectronics dot com wrote in message ... I've never been inside that HU, but if you can post the markings on the IC, I might be able to point you in the right direction for a replacement. A digital photo would be helpful too. No guarantee's, but the amplifier IC is usually pretty cheap and from what you describe, is likely to be the only thing damaged. Chris "Steve" wrote in message .. . I have a JVC KD-S890. I take it that the component presed right up against the heat sink is the amp. I'm guessing that the scorch marks around it on the PCB means the amp is fried. Is this the case? The unitturns on and plays a CD fine, but no sound comes out no matter what I try. ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
#22
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
Actually, you first said you had not come in contact with any cheap
amplifier chips, followed by the comment about parts suppliers. It's the "Heck I have a few I'd sell someone for 1/2 that" thought process that makes it possible to find a lot of those parts on Ebay for a lot less than full retail. I gather from your inability to write "Ebay" that you find their services not only of no value but somehow criminal... I don't think anyone is ever going to mistake them for a philanthropic organization (particularly if they keep whittling away at the sellers' position & increasing fees, in favor of increasing the number of unqualified & unrealistic buyers), but nobody does a better job of allowing you to easily turn your junk into someone else's junk for fun & profit, or to fill your house with someone else's junk at a reasonable cost. For all of its flaws it has transformed the used electronics business (just to cite one segment) and impacts the buying habits of millions. Am I to assume you think that should be done without charging anything? You said yourself you were lucky to find the alternative part you needed instead of paying PCP $59, does that make Ebay greedy or you cheap? Seems pretyt hypocritical, no? As for knock-offs, that's a good point... but the guys making big money in fake semi's are mostly doing it selling them to greedy or desperate factories in Asia that are being squeezed to maintain their costs so we can enjoy $59 power amps over here. Buying knock-offs can mean they can continue to make their profits in the process. Or you have places that don't pay enough attention to their incoming parts inspection, have buyers on the take, etc. etc. Pretty tough to pay for a largescale knock-off operation selling onesy-twoesy on Ebay... Buying from authorized part houses like PCP or Andrews etc. isn't a guarantee that you'll avoid knock-offs, a lot of fully legit companies have been stung in the past. It does however guarantee you'll be paying full retail though, unless you establish a business account with them. JD Barry & Nikki wrote: I said if you go through a parts supplier. I don't consider Greedbay a parts supplier. I have gotten deals on Greedbay however like the one that you mention. Greedbay though is a HUGE market for knock-off/fake IC's that are a heck of a lot less stable and unreliable than name brand.Yes I am saying your $179 Pioneer HU can cost you quite a bit to replace a blown chip. I bet that IC you purchased would be at least in the $30 or up range. Luckily I have not had to replace any as of late but I know about two year ago Pacific Coast Parts wanted $59 for a PAL004A. Luckily I did find it's alternative on Greedbay. Just because a part is larger than another does not determine it to be more expensive. If you want to look up a part look up the PAL007A on Greedbay; its even $27 then scroll down and look what one seller wants and pleads to get for his/her PAL005A. WOW someone must be desperate if they want to pay that price. Heck I have a few I'd sell someone for 1/2 that "John Durbin" wrote in message ... Huh? I just repaired a top of the line 300W Sony ES home power amp with a STK class A driver IC that cost all of $5.98 on Ebay. You telling me the ouput IC in a $179 Pioneer HU is going to cost 10X what this bigger driver IC in an expensive home amp sells for? Give me a part number! JD Barry & Nikki wrote: I have not come in contact with any "cheap" internal amplifier chips. Especially if you go through a parts supplier. I use to repair stuff on a regular basis and now and again to this day. The IC's that Pioneer stereos use are always pricey at $50 or more. I've come across a few "close out" deals on some older chips but most of the mosfets used in today's stuff seem to be considered gold when it comes to prices that are charged for them. Add in a repair shops inflated labor costs and you might as well just purchase a new unit. With that said if you need one I have a few 100 "older" head-units available or if you want to attempt the repair yourself I may be able to scrounge up an IC for ya if you let me know the labeling on it. I don't want to go dig up my service manual that is in storage to find the info. As for doing it yourself a lot of today's stereos have 3-layers of circuit board traces and most of the time you damage the inner layer when removing the IC if you don't have the proper tools or a LOT of luck. "Christopher Ott" chrisott at ottelectronics dot com wrote in message news:s9adnYjYZJ2UGvfVnZ2dnUVZ_tLinZ2d@giganews. com... I've never been inside that HU, but if you can post the markings on the IC, I might be able to point you in the right direction for a replacement. A digital photo would be helpful too. No guarantee's, but the amplifier IC is usually pretty cheap and from what you describe, is likely to be the only thing damaged. Chris "Steve" wrote in message ... I have a JVC KD-S890. I take it that the component presed right up against the heat sink is the amp. I'm guessing that the scorch marks around it on the PCB means the amp is fried. Is this the case? The unitturns on and plays a CD fine, but no sound comes out no matter what I try. ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
#23
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
Hi Steve,
Determining whether or not it is worth repairing really depends on how much damage was done to the circuit board. If the copper traces are still intact and there is just a bit of residue from the point of failure there's a good chance you will be able to repair the unit inexpensively by tracing the fault and then replacing all affected parts. If the copper traces on the circuit board scorched away then there must have been such a catastrophic failure that you probably would not trust the unit even if it was able to be repaired. The fact that a fuse did not blow probably suggests that either the amplifier in the head unit consisted of a single IC, and it quickly failed to an open circuit condition, or some form of circuit protection activated if the amplifier IC failed short. - Anthony "Steve" wrote in message ... I can see that whole words are a difficult concept for you so I'll try to put it into terms you can understand. A JVC KD-S890 is a head unit. Inside theres a part that makes the signals stronger. There's scorch marks around it on the circuit board. (still with me?) Is the head unit junk or can this be repaired? "bob wald" wrote in message ... look steve, this is a $400 amp 1 minute. pick of junk the next hobby..thats why i buy extra amps when i see them cheap.. stop ya crying. you can buy a good cerwin vega amp $85.... cheaper than fixin the burnt up piece of junk ya have. oh n steve. youll get use to that happening around the 3rd time....lol |
#24
Posted to rec.audio.car
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blown amp?
This is a very good point. If you are going to attempt the repair yourself,
and are not experienced with soldering, try to find a friend who is. Use low-temp irons, take your time, and use quality equipment. I refuse to use anything other than my trusty Metcal when doing repairs. Metcal gun + air compressor + patience = a good, solid repair! - Anthony "Barry & Nikki" wrote in message om... I have not come in contact with any "cheap" internal amplifier chips. Especially if you go through a parts supplier. I use to repair stuff on a regular basis and now and again to this day. The IC's that Pioneer stereos use are always pricey at $50 or more. I've come across a few "close out" deals on some older chips but most of the mosfets used in today's stuff seem to be considered gold when it comes to prices that are charged for them. Add in a repair shops inflated labor costs and you might as well just purchase a new unit. With that said if you need one I have a few 100 "older" head-units available or if you want to attempt the repair yourself I may be able to scrounge up an IC for ya if you let me know the labeling on it. I don't want to go dig up my service manual that is in storage to find the info. As for doing it yourself a lot of today's stereos have 3-layers of circuit board traces and most of the time you damage the inner layer when removing the IC if you don't have the proper tools or a LOT of luck. "Christopher Ott" chrisott at ottelectronics dot com wrote in message ... I've never been inside that HU, but if you can post the markings on the IC, I might be able to point you in the right direction for a replacement. A digital photo would be helpful too. No guarantee's, but the amplifier IC is usually pretty cheap and from what you describe, is likely to be the only thing damaged. Chris "Steve" wrote in message ... I have a JVC KD-S890. I take it that the component presed right up against the heat sink is the amp. I'm guessing that the scorch marks around it on the PCB means the amp is fried. Is this the case? The unitturns on and plays a CD fine, but no sound comes out no matter what I try. |
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