Quick question...I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder which I am gutting the
Bose system out of...a/d/s/ 346cs components are going up front and
will be powered by a PQ10. I am concerned due to the high placement of
the tweeters in the a-pillars and have chosen to bi-amp to gain more
control of the tweeter levels. Now my question...What is the preferred
method to biamp the amp and speakers? I know the basic theory and
method of biamping, but not with regard to the PQ10. Should I use the
346cs crossovers? I have a 642csi laying around which I can use if
needed. Anyone have a manual for the PQ10? Thanks for any info.
Looking to get started on the install next week.

Quick question...I have a 2002 Nissan Pathfinder which I am gutting the
Bose system out of...a/d/s/ 346cs components are going up front and
will be powered by a PQ10. I am concerned due to the high placement of
the tweeters in the a-pillars and have chosen to bi-amp to gain more
control of the tweeter levels. Now my question...What is the preferred
method to biamp the amp and speakers? I know the basic theory and
method of biamping, but not with regard to the PQ10. Should I use the
346cs crossovers? I have a 642csi laying around which I can use if
needed. Anyone have a manual for the PQ10? Thanks for any info.
Looking to get started on the install next week.

Part of the reason for biamping is so that you don't have to rely on the
passive crossovers to provide a fixed xover point for you. You can, of
course, use them if you'd like. But you'd gain greater control by using the
amplifier's adjustable crossovers and, if necessary, other outboard
crossovers.

Having said that, it's generally wise to provide some sort of tweeter
protection in the event of amplifier failure. If you don't use the passive
crossovers, then the tweeter will be exposed to DC if it's somehow
introduced by the amplifier (which only happens when the amplifier is
faulty), and there won't be a capacitor there to protect it. Some folks end
up putting a capacitor in series with the tweeter - a capacitor whose xover
point is much lower than the xover point that the active xover will be set
at. In doing so, it provides DC protection, but doesn't act as your primary
crossover. Don't use too large a capacitor though, because then it may
actually act as a low-pass filter if its ESL is too high! Also, avoid using
polarized capacitors.

Other folks like to kill two birds with one stone and fuse their tweeters.
Not a bad idea, really. Especially if they're expensive to replace.

Personally, I don't think it's a big deal. My current setup (also biamping
a/d/s/ separates) doesn't use either method of protection. I happen to
think the likelihood of DC protection actually being needed to save your
speakers is quite low. Others may disagree.

"MZ" wrote in message
...


Personally, I don't think it's a big deal. My current setup (also
biamping
a/d/s/ separates) doesn't use either method of protection. I happen to
think the likelihood of DC protection actually being needed to save your
speakers is quite low. Others may disagree.



Same as MZ here, Biamped AL6, just haven't gotten around to installing that
cap, probably won't. Been running for years just fine and like it MUCH
better than the passive arrangement. Choose a cap just above the FS of the
tweeter. Be very careful when setting crossove freq especially if the amp
has a "X10" switch. Check twice before turning rig on, enjoy, the
flexibility is limitless.

Chad