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Help Building A Low Wattage Tube Guitar Amplifier
Hello All!
I know this post probably belongs in a group such as rec.audio.fisherprice.newbie but I could use a hand. I want to build a very low wattage (one watt?)tube guitar amplifier for (miked) recording. I was considering the Hi-Octane from the AX84 site but would like to use some of the parts I have to save some dough. I have some good parts, tubes etc. to trade if anyone has any small appropriate transformers laying in their obsession pile. Any tips or help would be appreciated. Thanks, Paul FudallaATrealmatrix.com |
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#5
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In article ,
(Rifa Roederstein) wrote: Hello All! I know this post probably belongs in a group such as rec.audio.fisherprice.newbie but I could use a hand. I want to build a very low wattage (one watt?)tube guitar amplifier for (miked) recording. I was considering the Hi-Octane from the AX84 site but would like to use some of the parts I have to save some dough. I have some good parts, tubes etc. to trade if anyone has any small appropriate transformers laying in their obsession pile. Any tips or help would be appreciated. Thanks, Paul FudallaATrealmatrix.com Have you looked at the Firefly amp which can be found at http://home.cfl.rr.com/dbhammond/ff.htm |
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#6
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Rifa Roederstein wrote:
I know this post probably belongs in a group such as rec.audio.fisherprice.newbie but I could use a hand. I want to build a very low wattage (one watt?)tube guitar amplifier for (miked) recording. I was considering the Hi-Octane from the AX84 site but would like to use some of the parts I have to save some dough. I have some good parts, tubes etc. to trade if anyone has any small appropriate transformers laying in their obsession pile. Any tips or help would be appreciated. I probably have some cheap table-radio style transformers for 50C5 single-ended outputs around here if you want one. Should work with any other single-ended output stage that has a similar plate current and similar output impedance. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
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#7
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Rifa Roederstein wrote:
I know this post probably belongs in a group such as rec.audio.fisherprice.newbie but I could use a hand. I want to build a very low wattage (one watt?)tube guitar amplifier for (miked) recording. I was considering the Hi-Octane from the AX84 site but would like to use some of the parts I have to save some dough. I have some good parts, tubes etc. to trade if anyone has any small appropriate transformers laying in their obsession pile. Any tips or help would be appreciated. I probably have some cheap table-radio style transformers for 50C5 single-ended outputs around here if you want one. Should work with any other single-ended output stage that has a similar plate current and similar output impedance. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
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#9
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#10
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Rifa Roederstein wrote:
Thanks for the help guys and the offer Scott. I ended up buying an old Zenith radio with an unusual 7" speaker at the flea market. With a little snooping around on the net, I found a schematic for it with an optional "phono" input which mine didn't have but now does  My guitarsounds great through this thing! It's quiet as a mouse and has a surprisingly good low end. It uses a 19T8 and a 35C5 for the audio amplification (along with some rf tubes). Very cool for the $15 paid. Have a great weekend!! Paul (Rifa=caps + roherderstein = resistors which are both impossible to find, regardless of unhealthy-needless obsessing )Ok, now, you've opened a can-o-worms! What you have is called a hot-chassis radio. Exactly what it sounds like. The chassis of that thing, hence your guitar strings, are connected directly to the AC line (see below). Unplug it now and order a 117:117 volt (1:1) isolation power transformer, or the first time you touch your strings and touch a mic may be your last. One side of the line is grounded, the other is hot (117VAC). Which side is connected to the chassis and which is connected to the rectifier is random, depending on which way you plug it in. The tube filaments are all connected in series; the starting numbers in their types which designate their filament voltages, all add up to 117 (line voltage): the 35C5 is 35 volts, etc. Take a look and see. |
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#11
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Rifa Roederstein wrote:
Thanks for the help guys and the offer Scott. I ended up buying an old Zenith radio with an unusual 7" speaker at the flea market. With a little snooping around on the net, I found a schematic for it with an optional "phono" input which mine didn't have but now does My guitarsounds great through this thing! It's quiet as a mouse and has a surprisingly good low end. It uses a 19T8 and a 35C5 for the audio amplification (along with some rf tubes). Very cool for the $15 paid. Have a great weekend!! Paul (Rifa=caps + roherderstein = resistors which are both impossible to find, regardless of unhealthy-needless obsessing )Ok, now, you've opened a can-o-worms! What you have is called a hot-chassis radio. Exactly what it sounds like. The chassis of that thing, hence your guitar strings, are connected directly to the AC line (see below). Unplug it now and order a 117:117 volt (1:1) isolation power transformer, or the first time you touch your strings and touch a mic may be your last. One side of the line is grounded, the other is hot (117VAC). Which side is connected to the chassis and which is connected to the rectifier is random, depending on which way you plug it in. The tube filaments are all connected in series; the starting numbers in their types which designate their filament voltages, all add up to 117 (line voltage): the 35C5 is 35 volts, etc. Take a look and see. |
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#12
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S O'Neill wrote:
Ok, now, you've opened a can-o-worms! What you have is called a hot-chassis radio. Exactly what it sounds like. The chassis of that thing, hence your guitar strings, are connected directly to the AC line (see below). Unplug it now and order a 117:117 volt (1:1) isolation power transformer, or the first time you touch your strings and touch a mic may be your last. One side of the line is grounded, the other is hot (117VAC). Which side is connected to the chassis and which is connected to the rectifier is random, depending on which way you plug it in. Couldn't you just unplug the thing and use a continuity tester to determine which blade of the plug is connected to the chassis, then replace the plug with a polarized plug so that the chassis is always connected to the ground? - Logan |
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#13
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S O'Neill wrote:
Ok, now, you've opened a can-o-worms! What you have is called a hot-chassis radio. Exactly what it sounds like. The chassis of that thing, hence your guitar strings, are connected directly to the AC line (see below). Unplug it now and order a 117:117 volt (1:1) isolation power transformer, or the first time you touch your strings and touch a mic may be your last. One side of the line is grounded, the other is hot (117VAC). Which side is connected to the chassis and which is connected to the rectifier is random, depending on which way you plug it in. Couldn't you just unplug the thing and use a continuity tester to determine which blade of the plug is connected to the chassis, then replace the plug with a polarized plug so that the chassis is always connected to the ground? - Logan |
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#14
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#16
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On Thu, 20 May 2004 23:49:39 GMT, Logan Shaw
wrote: S O'Neill wrote: Ok, now, you've opened a can-o-worms! What you have is called a hot-chassis radio. Exactly what it sounds like. The chassis of that thing, hence your guitar strings, are connected directly to the AC line (see below). Unplug it now and order a 117:117 volt (1:1) isolation power transformer, or the first time you touch your strings and touch a mic may be your last. One side of the line is grounded, the other is hot (117VAC). Which side is connected to the chassis and which is connected to the rectifier is random, depending on which way you plug it in. Couldn't you just unplug the thing and use a continuity tester to determine which blade of the plug is connected to the chassis, then replace the plug with a polarized plug so that the chassis is always connected to the ground? Yes but you would be trusting the hot and neutral on every outlet you plug it into to be wired correctly. And that's not something to be trusted. Such a miswired outlet will work correctly with every other kind of device, but still put the line voltage on this chassis. - Logan ----- http://mindspring.com/~benbradley |
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#17
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On Thu, 20 May 2004 23:49:39 GMT, Logan Shaw
wrote: S O'Neill wrote: Ok, now, you've opened a can-o-worms! What you have is called a hot-chassis radio. Exactly what it sounds like. The chassis of that thing, hence your guitar strings, are connected directly to the AC line (see below). Unplug it now and order a 117:117 volt (1:1) isolation power transformer, or the first time you touch your strings and touch a mic may be your last. One side of the line is grounded, the other is hot (117VAC). Which side is connected to the chassis and which is connected to the rectifier is random, depending on which way you plug it in. Couldn't you just unplug the thing and use a continuity tester to determine which blade of the plug is connected to the chassis, then replace the plug with a polarized plug so that the chassis is always connected to the ground? Yes but you would be trusting the hot and neutral on every outlet you plug it into to be wired correctly. And that's not something to be trusted. Such a miswired outlet will work correctly with every other kind of device, but still put the line voltage on this chassis. - Logan ----- http://mindspring.com/~benbradley |
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#18
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Ben Bradley wrote:
On Thu, 20 May 2004 23:49:39 GMT, Logan Shaw wrote: Couldn't you just unplug the thing and use a continuity tester to determine which blade of the plug is connected to the chassis, then replace the plug with a polarized plug so that the chassis is always connected to the ground? Yes but you would be trusting the hot and neutral on every outlet you plug it into to be wired correctly. And that's not something to be trusted. Such a miswired outlet will work correctly with every other kind of device, but still put the line voltage on this chassis. If there aren't other devices that already do this, then why was the polarized plug invented in the first place? Perhaps it was a bad idea from the start for just this reason, but if so, then why do so many electronic devices still come with polarized plugs if they are useless? - Logan |
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#19
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Ben Bradley wrote:
On Thu, 20 May 2004 23:49:39 GMT, Logan Shaw wrote: Couldn't you just unplug the thing and use a continuity tester to determine which blade of the plug is connected to the chassis, then replace the plug with a polarized plug so that the chassis is always connected to the ground? Yes but you would be trusting the hot and neutral on every outlet you plug it into to be wired correctly. And that's not something to be trusted. Such a miswired outlet will work correctly with every other kind of device, but still put the line voltage on this chassis. If there aren't other devices that already do this, then why was the polarized plug invented in the first place? Perhaps it was a bad idea from the start for just this reason, but if so, then why do so many electronic devices still come with polarized plugs if they are useless? - Logan |
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#20
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Logan Shaw wrote:
Ben Bradley wrote: On Thu, 20 May 2004 23:49:39 GMT, Logan Shaw wrote: Couldn't you just unplug the thing and use a continuity tester to determine which blade of the plug is connected to the chassis, then replace the plug with a polarized plug so that the chassis is always connected to the ground? Yes but you would be trusting the hot and neutral on every outlet you plug it into to be wired correctly. And that's not something to be trusted. Such a miswired outlet will work correctly with every other kind of device, but still put the line voltage on this chassis. If there aren't other devices that already do this, then why was the polarized plug invented in the first place? Perhaps it was a bad idea from the start for just this reason, but if so, then why do so many electronic devices still come with polarized plugs if they are useless? Good question. All I can figure is the wide blade may be required to be connected to the non-switched side of the appliance, reducing the number of internal parts that are hot when it's off. Quick, don't look, which wire would you connect to the brass-colored screw, white or black? Would you wager your life that everyone who has ever fixed an outlet knows or cares? If the OP is still around, I wonder if it hums real loud if he reverses the AC plug. That would probably be the dangerous side. But the good news is that it'll work if he plugs it into DC line voltage, if they still have that anywhere. |
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#21
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Logan Shaw wrote:
Ben Bradley wrote: On Thu, 20 May 2004 23:49:39 GMT, Logan Shaw wrote: Couldn't you just unplug the thing and use a continuity tester to determine which blade of the plug is connected to the chassis, then replace the plug with a polarized plug so that the chassis is always connected to the ground? Yes but you would be trusting the hot and neutral on every outlet you plug it into to be wired correctly. And that's not something to be trusted. Such a miswired outlet will work correctly with every other kind of device, but still put the line voltage on this chassis. If there aren't other devices that already do this, then why was the polarized plug invented in the first place? Perhaps it was a bad idea from the start for just this reason, but if so, then why do so many electronic devices still come with polarized plugs if they are useless? Good question. All I can figure is the wide blade may be required to be connected to the non-switched side of the appliance, reducing the number of internal parts that are hot when it's off. Quick, don't look, which wire would you connect to the brass-colored screw, white or black? Would you wager your life that everyone who has ever fixed an outlet knows or cares? If the OP is still around, I wonder if it hums real loud if he reverses the AC plug. That would probably be the dangerous side. But the good news is that it'll work if he plugs it into DC line voltage, if they still have that anywhere. |
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#22
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S O'Neill wrote in message ...
Rifa Roederstein wrote: Thanks for the help guys and the offer Scott. I ended up buying an old Zenith radio with an unusual 7" speaker at the flea market. With a little snooping around on the net, I found a schematic for it with an optional "phono" input which mine didn't have but now does My guitarsounds great through this thing! It's quiet as a mouse and has a surprisingly good low end. It uses a 19T8 and a 35C5 for the audio amplification (along with some rf tubes). Very cool for the $15 paid. Have a great weekend!! Paul (Rifa=caps + roherderstein = resistors which are both impossible to find, regardless of unhealthy-needless obsessing )Ok, now, you've opened a can-o-worms! What you have is called a hot-chassis radio. Exactly what it sounds like. The chassis of that thing, hence your guitar strings, are connected directly to the AC line (see below). Unplug it now and order a 117:117 volt (1:1) isolation power transformer, or the first time you touch your strings and touch a mic may be your last. One side of the line is grounded, the other is hot (117VAC). Which side is connected to the chassis and which is connected to the rectifier is random, depending on which way you plug it in. The tube filaments are all connected in series; the starting numbers in their types which designate their filament voltages, all add up to 117 (line voltage): the 35C5 is 35 volts, etc. Take a look and see. Thanks for the tips guys! I'm very careful with tube electronics, especially the PS caps which I always make sure are drained etc.... but though I should have seen this hazard, unfortunately didn't realize what is now obvious. I'm thinking I'll play it safe and go with a transformer, and that it wouldn't be a bad idea to fish around on eBay for a nice DC power supply (like maybe a power one linear), maybe filter it with a nice 100uf cap also, and do away with this rectifier which looks like a heatsink. The heaters are series heated and I was thinking of rewiring them in parallel but this amp sounds very good and is very quiet, so I don't want to screw with it too much. I'm also installing a selector switch so I can listen to the radio (which also sounds great), or use it as an amp. What do you think S? Paul |
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#23
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S O'Neill wrote in message ...
Rifa Roederstein wrote: Thanks for the help guys and the offer Scott. I ended up buying an old Zenith radio with an unusual 7" speaker at the flea market. With a little snooping around on the net, I found a schematic for it with an optional "phono" input which mine didn't have but now does My guitarsounds great through this thing! It's quiet as a mouse and has a surprisingly good low end. It uses a 19T8 and a 35C5 for the audio amplification (along with some rf tubes). Very cool for the $15 paid. Have a great weekend!! Paul (Rifa=caps + roherderstein = resistors which are both impossible to find, regardless of unhealthy-needless obsessing )Ok, now, you've opened a can-o-worms! What you have is called a hot-chassis radio. Exactly what it sounds like. The chassis of that thing, hence your guitar strings, are connected directly to the AC line (see below). Unplug it now and order a 117:117 volt (1:1) isolation power transformer, or the first time you touch your strings and touch a mic may be your last. One side of the line is grounded, the other is hot (117VAC). Which side is connected to the chassis and which is connected to the rectifier is random, depending on which way you plug it in. The tube filaments are all connected in series; the starting numbers in their types which designate their filament voltages, all add up to 117 (line voltage): the 35C5 is 35 volts, etc. Take a look and see. Thanks for the tips guys! I'm very careful with tube electronics, especially the PS caps which I always make sure are drained etc.... but though I should have seen this hazard, unfortunately didn't realize what is now obvious. I'm thinking I'll play it safe and go with a transformer, and that it wouldn't be a bad idea to fish around on eBay for a nice DC power supply (like maybe a power one linear), maybe filter it with a nice 100uf cap also, and do away with this rectifier which looks like a heatsink. The heaters are series heated and I was thinking of rewiring them in parallel but this amp sounds very good and is very quiet, so I don't want to screw with it too much. I'm also installing a selector switch so I can listen to the radio (which also sounds great), or use it as an amp. What do you think S? Paul |
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#24
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Chris Hornbeck wrote in message . ..
On 20 May 2004 16:26:45 -0700, (Rifa Roederstein) wrote: Thanks for the help guys and the offer Scott. I ended up buying an old Zenith radio with an unusual 7" speaker at the flea market. With a little snooping around on the net, I found a schematic for it with an optional "phono" input which mine didn't have but now does My guitarsounds great through this thing! It's quiet as a mouse and has a surprisingly good low end. It uses a 19T8 and a 35C5 for the audio amplification (along with some rf tubes). Very cool for the $15 paid. Have a great weekend!! A transformerless guitar amplifier? You're one brave motor scooter. Chris Hornbeck "the children of marx and coca cola" Not any more!! Just learned about the importance of an isolationtransformer in guitar amps like this one (fortunately the easy way). It should have been obvious, but I never realized the hazard. I'm thinking this little jewel just might be worthy of a nice, regulated, nicely filtered power supply. Off on the hunt...................... ...!...... |
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#25
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Chris Hornbeck wrote in message . ..
On 20 May 2004 16:26:45 -0700, (Rifa Roederstein) wrote: Thanks for the help guys and the offer Scott. I ended up buying an old Zenith radio with an unusual 7" speaker at the flea market. With a little snooping around on the net, I found a schematic for it with an optional "phono" input which mine didn't have but now does My guitarsounds great through this thing! It's quiet as a mouse and has a surprisingly good low end. It uses a 19T8 and a 35C5 for the audio amplification (along with some rf tubes). Very cool for the $15 paid. Have a great weekend!! A transformerless guitar amplifier? You're one brave motor scooter. Chris Hornbeck "the children of marx and coca cola" Not any more!! Just learned about the importance of an isolationtransformer in guitar amps like this one (fortunately the easy way). It should have been obvious, but I never realized the hazard. I'm thinking this little jewel just might be worthy of a nice, regulated, nicely filtered power supply. Off on the hunt...................... ...!...... |
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#26
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Rifa Roederstein wrote:
Not any more!! Just learned about the importance of an isolationtransformer in guitar amps like this one (fortunately the easy way). Phew! That was close! |
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#27
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Rifa Roederstein wrote:
Not any more!! Just learned about the importance of an isolationtransformer in guitar amps like this one (fortunately the easy way). Phew! That was close! |
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#28
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http://www.marshamps.com
This guy sells tweed Champ kits for $385. I believe he includes very detailed instructions for assembly. It's probably going to end up being around 3.5 to 4 watts, and have a very classic sound that records well in many applications. Take care, Gord |
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#29
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http://www.marshamps.com
This guy sells tweed Champ kits for $385. I believe he includes very detailed instructions for assembly. It's probably going to end up being around 3.5 to 4 watts, and have a very classic sound that records well in many applications. Take care, Gord |
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#30
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Gord wrote:
http://www.marshamps.com This guy sells tweed Champ kits for $385. I believe he includes very detailed instructions for assembly. It's probably going to end up being around 3.5 to 4 watts, and have a very classic sound that records well in many applications. Take care, Gord Holy cow! Thanks for the link. -- Les Cargill |
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#31
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Gord wrote:
http://www.marshamps.com This guy sells tweed Champ kits for $385. I believe he includes very detailed instructions for assembly. It's probably going to end up being around 3.5 to 4 watts, and have a very classic sound that records well in many applications. Take care, Gord Holy cow! Thanks for the link. -- Les Cargill |
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#32
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(Gord) wrote in message . com...
http://www.marshamps.com This guy sells tweed Champ kits for $385. I believe he includes very detailed instructions for assembly. It's probably going to end up being around 3.5 to 4 watts, and have a very classic sound that records well in many applications. Take care, Gord Thanks for the tip Gord. The folks in this group RULE. I've been having fun with alot of old tube amps (Bogen, Harman Kardon, etc.) that I pick up cheap on eBay. My primary need was originally for an amp for recording that would add the distortion/feedback effect, which I could mic. It's turned into something interesting though just checking out the different amps, most of which sound really good. I even have a Heathkit WA-P2 preamp which I've added a power supply to and use for a guitar preamp. It's quite rewarding just cleaning these amps up, changing the PS caps, cleaning the pots, etc., also learning alot of fun things (including a very important tip about how NOT to get electrocuted very recently). I really have no need for a real guitar amp, though that kit seems interesting and the tip is appreciated. I'm having fun tinkering and learning, which is all i really need now. I have a couple old amps that will work fine for miked recording also. It's very surprising how most of these amps work like new after very little attention, considering what they can do, how old they are, and how cheap you can get them for. Tubes are so fascinating!! Paul (Rifa) |
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#33
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(Gord) wrote in message . com...
http://www.marshamps.com This guy sells tweed Champ kits for $385. I believe he includes very detailed instructions for assembly. It's probably going to end up being around 3.5 to 4 watts, and have a very classic sound that records well in many applications. Take care, Gord Thanks for the tip Gord. The folks in this group RULE. I've been having fun with alot of old tube amps (Bogen, Harman Kardon, etc.) that I pick up cheap on eBay. My primary need was originally for an amp for recording that would add the distortion/feedback effect, which I could mic. It's turned into something interesting though just checking out the different amps, most of which sound really good. I even have a Heathkit WA-P2 preamp which I've added a power supply to and use for a guitar preamp. It's quite rewarding just cleaning these amps up, changing the PS caps, cleaning the pots, etc., also learning alot of fun things (including a very important tip about how NOT to get electrocuted very recently). I really have no need for a real guitar amp, though that kit seems interesting and the tip is appreciated. I'm having fun tinkering and learning, which is all i really need now. I have a couple old amps that will work fine for miked recording also. It's very surprising how most of these amps work like new after very little attention, considering what they can do, how old they are, and how cheap you can get them for. Tubes are so fascinating!! Paul (Rifa) |
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#34
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These links should compliment what's already been said
http://www.ax84.com/ This is a fantastic site based around an open source-style tube amp. Lots of variations and great learning to be had... You can get kits or just work with your own sources and a parts list. http://www.duncanamps.com/ http://www.aikenamps.com/ These sites have lots of great information for the builder as well... |
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#35
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These links should compliment what's already been said
http://www.ax84.com/ This is a fantastic site based around an open source-style tube amp. Lots of variations and great learning to be had... You can get kits or just work with your own sources and a parts list. http://www.duncanamps.com/ http://www.aikenamps.com/ These sites have lots of great information for the builder as well... |
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#36
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(Tim Walter) wrote in message om...
These links should compliment what's already been said http://www.ax84.com/ This is a fantastic site based around an open source-style tube amp. Lots of variations and great learning to be had... You can get kits or just work with your own sources and a parts list. http://www.duncanamps.com/ http://www.aikenamps.com/ These sites have lots of great information for the builder as well... Just got finished building the simple PI from the ax84 website, what a lil' beast. Very hard to believe it only uses one 12AX7 and one EL84. It also has bass/mid/treble controls and a nice overdrive when cranked up. Built with a handfull of scrap parts! The Power One IHB200 power supply I had laying around worked out well also. It should work great for recording. Highly recommended. Paul (Rifa) |
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#37
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(Tim Walter) wrote in message om...
These links should compliment what's already been said http://www.ax84.com/ This is a fantastic site based around an open source-style tube amp. Lots of variations and great learning to be had... You can get kits or just work with your own sources and a parts list. http://www.duncanamps.com/ http://www.aikenamps.com/ These sites have lots of great information for the builder as well... Just got finished building the simple PI from the ax84 website, what a lil' beast. Very hard to believe it only uses one 12AX7 and one EL84. It also has bass/mid/treble controls and a nice overdrive when cranked up. Built with a handfull of scrap parts! The Power One IHB200 power supply I had laying around worked out well also. It should work great for recording. Highly recommended. Paul (Rifa) |
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#38
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(Tim Walter) wrote in message om...
These links should compliment what's already been said http://www.ax84.com/ This is a fantastic site based around an open source-style tube amp. Lots of variations and great learning to be had... You can get kits or just work with your own sources and a parts list. http://www.duncanamps.com/ http://www.aikenamps.com/ These sites have lots of great information for the builder as well... Just got finished building the simple PI from the ax84 website, what a lil' beast. Very hard to believe it only uses one 12AX7 and one EL84. It also has bass/mid/treble controls and a nice overdrive when cranked up. Built with a handfull of scrap parts! The Power One IHB200 power supply I had laying around worked out well also. It should work great for recording. Highly recommended. Paul (Rifa) |
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