Dear Wessel, Patrick, Trevor, Fabio, John, Chris, et al,

I posted the corrected schematic of the Infinity RS IIIB on ASBE.
It's under the subject heading "RS-3B, (Act II)." Finally I copied the
crossover
and it's amazing how much the actual layout
and the published schematic differ. Do not worry about the attachment being
contaminated. If there is a better way of doing it, please let me know. It's
no wonder why there was so much confusion. As you can see, the woofers are
in series. The questionable fuse does not exist and the input to the mid is
a 16.5mf cap, not a coil. Also, the mid speaker is protected by what looks
like a self reset circuit breaker. It's made by Culver and looks like a
micro-switch without any trigger actuators. What would you do to improve the
impedance? AFAIK, the EMIT is the culprit that dips to below 2 ohms. Thanks
again.

Cordially,
west

west wrote:

Dear Wessel, Patrick, Trevor, Fabio, John, Chris, et al,

I posted the corrected schematic of the Infinity RS IIIB on ASBE.
It's under the subject heading "RS-3B, (Act II)." Finally I copied the
crossover
and it's amazing how much the actual layout
and the published schematic differ. Do not worry about the attachment being
contaminated. If there is a better way of doing it, please let me know. It's
no wonder why there was so much confusion. As you can see, the woofers are
in series. The questionable fuse does not exist and the input to the mid is
a 16.5mf cap, not a coil. Also, the mid speaker is protected by what looks
like a self reset circuit breaker. It's made by Culver and looks like a
micro-switch without any trigger actuators. What would you do to improve the
impedance? AFAIK, the EMIT is the culprit that dips to below 2 ohms. Thanks
again.

Cordially,
west

My ISP does not bring me up to date abse; the latest message is from last
friday,
and by the time your post may/may not appear and i try to download it,
it will have expired, and i can't see it.

Please be so kind to post me your abse post to me directly.

Have you measured the impedance and drawn an impedance graph?????


Its quite simple.
You need a variable F sine wave oscillator with constant amplitude from at least

10Hz to 100 kHz.

Then you need a power amp that will make 10.0vrms between 10Hz and 20 kHz.

Then connect the speaker to the power amp with 10v signal, but have
a 1 k resistor in series.
This will give you a virtual constant current feed to the speaker of 10mA.

Measure the voltage across the speaker terminals .
at F at 10,13, 16, 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 60, 70, 85, 100 and so on
up to 20 khz.
A voltage of 0.04vrms means the speaker has Z = 4 ohms,
since R = E / I , which is Ohms law.

The meter needs to be able to measure the low voltage between 10Hz to 100 kHz,
and a digital meter is useless above 2 kHz.

Alternatively, apply 0.05 vrms to the speaker with a milliamp meter
in series, and R = E / I.

Use some logarithmically divided paper to draw the graph.
Your local news agent/stationery store should have a pad of such for $2.

When you have checked and re-checked the pencil drawn curve,
use black ink over the top and rub off the pencil.
Nominate the drawing with neat writing of Z levels and F,
and give the curve a title and date.
it should look tidy, neat, and able to be understood by a village idiot.
The scan it at 300dpi, grey scale, so that the curve occupies the full width of
the scan.
There is no use having a little curve sitting in only 25% width of the screen.

After scanning it, it will be a huge file size, maybe 5 MB.

Don't you dare send any file that size to me!

The scanner you should have should with it an image manipulation program
to edit raw scans.
First, apply 10% increase in both contrast and brightness.
This removes the 90% of the grey smudginess of the paper.
Then reduce size to 700pixels wide x say 400 high.
Such a picture should nicely occupy most ppl's monitor
without too much trouble and the file size shouldn't be more than 200kB.

Then apply "sharpen lightly" to the image once the size has been adjusted,
and that should further neaten and tidy up your work, and leave it looking
crisp and clean and printable.

I usually erase any errors or other crap on a scan as the last thing.

I save the scan as a titled jpg to my "audio technical / speakers " file,
and that's how i do all my schematics and graphs.
It takes an hour on a good run.

You see, we can't help you with measurements because we don't have your
speakers,
you do, so if you want help from us, you need to
do a little more than you have.

Patrick Turner.

Thank you gentlemen for correcting me in a most tactful fashion.
west

west" wrote in message
. ..
Dear Wessel, Patrick, Trevor, Fabio, John, Chris, et al,

I posted the corrected schematic of the Infinity RS IIIB on ASBE.
It's under the subject heading "RS-3B, (Act II)." Finally I copied the
crossover
and it's amazing how much the actual layout
and the published schematic differ. Do not worry about the attachment
being
contaminated. If there is a better way of doing it, please let me know.
It's
no wonder why there was so much confusion. As you can see, the woofers are
in series. The questionable fuse does not exist and the input to the mid
is
a 16.5mf cap, not a coil. Also, the mid speaker is protected by what looks
like a self reset circuit breaker. It's made by Culver and looks like a
micro-switch without any trigger actuators. What would you do to improve
the
impedance? AFAIK, the EMIT is the culprit that dips to below 2 ohms.
Thanks
again.

Cordially,
west

I reply to West about his RS IIIB speakers.

Thanks West, I got your email with the speaker schematic as you think you found it
to be,
but i doubt two things in your revised schemo.

First, you have 0.1mH connected across the input of the speaker in front of the
7uf feeding the tweeter.

Is that the way the crossover is connected or not?

I seriously doubt it, because an inductor of 0.1mH has only 0.0628 ohms of impedance
at
100Hz, and only 0.628 ohms at a kHz.
That you have not found the way the schematic appears is strange means that
you have not the tiniest idea about how filter circuits work or how they
should look when drawn up.
I won't be too cross with you, and I'd like to be of assistance, but
I don't wanna be a mushroom boyo, one who is fed on BS and kept in the dark.


Second, the connection of the pot appearing in front of the tweeter
seems quite wrong, since the pot could not control the level
of the tweeter, and the voltage limiting zeners would have no effect the way you
have re-drawn it.

Check again and again and again.

And if you can, measure the impedance, and assume nothing.

Patrick Turner.

"Patrick Turner" wrote in message
...
I reply to West about his RS IIIB speakers.

Thanks West, I got your email with the speaker schematic as you think you
found it
to be,
but i doubt two things in your revised schemo.

First, you have 0.1mH connected across the input of the speaker in front
of the
7uf feeding the tweeter.

Is that the way the crossover is connected or not?

I seriously doubt it, because an inductor of 0.1mH has only 0.0628 ohms of
impedance
at
100Hz, and only 0.628 ohms at a kHz.
That you have not found the way the schematic appears is strange means
that
you have not the tiniest idea about how filter circuits work or how they
should look when drawn up.

Anyone with common sense will see that it's like a typo (the inductor goes
on the right side of the cap, not left). How did you draw your above
conclusion about tiniest idea? You sound stress out.

I won't be too cross with you, and I'd like to be of assistance, but
I don't wanna be a mushroom boyo, one who is fed on BS and kept in the
dark.

Oh thank you Massa for not being too cross wif me.

Second, the connection of the pot appearing in front of the tweeter
seems quite wrong, since the pot could not control the level
of the tweeter, and the voltage limiting zeners would have no effect the
way you
have re-drawn it.

Your the one who appears clueless. Although they may look like Zeners same
value, series opposing, I bet 80% of RATS will see it as a spike protector
for the very fragile EMIT. Shame on you!

Check again and again and again.

And if you can, measure the impedance, and assume nothing.

Can I assume that you need a vacation?
west

Patrick Turner.

west wrote:

"Patrick Turner" wrote in message
...
I reply to West about his RS IIIB speakers.

Thanks West, I got your email with the speaker schematic as you think you
found it
to be,
but i doubt two things in your revised schemo.

First, you have 0.1mH connected across the input of the speaker in front
of the
7uf feeding the tweeter.

Is that the way the crossover is connected or not?

I seriously doubt it, because an inductor of 0.1mH has only 0.0628 ohms of
impedance
at
100Hz, and only 0.628 ohms at a kHz.
That you have not found the way the schematic appears is strange means
that
you have not the tiniest idea about how filter circuits work or how they
should look when drawn up.

Dear West, im my last long private email to you in response to your
emails I have attempted to disengage my involvement with you over this issue
of your speakers, but now I come to the group and see yet another reply to me
I have no option but to reply to you; delays in my ISP's ability
to get r.a.t posts sent do occur here.






Anyone with common sense will see that it's like a typo (the inductor goes
on the right side of the cap, not left). How did you draw your above
conclusion about tiniest idea? You sound stress out.

I thought you went to your speaker and after carefull examination you added and
altered the
schematic to how it really was, and then posted the results.

Being a professional man with at least some capacity for rational analysis,
I concluded the schematic you posted to me yesterday was exactly the way you
found it to be.



I won't be too cross with you, and I'd like to be of assistance, but
I don't wanna be a mushroom boyo, one who is fed on BS and kept in the
dark.

Oh thank you Massa for not being too cross wif me.

Second, the connection of the pot appearing in front of the tweeter
seems quite wrong, since the pot could not control the level
of the tweeter, and the voltage limiting zeners would have no effect the
way you
have re-drawn it.

Your the one who appears clueless. Although they may look like Zeners same
value, series opposing, I bet 80% of RATS will see it as a spike protector
for the very fragile EMIT. Shame on you!

The two back to back zeners as you have them shown to be connected in the
schematic
you sent me do nothing to protect the speakers from "spikes" from the amplifier.

Your revised schematic shows the tweeter connected directly between the
7uF and 0V.

The zeners are connected between the pot wiper and 0V.

Thus any spike hits the tweeter unlimited because the 7uF and amp are a low
impedance feed to the tweeter
and the R between zeners and 0V don't limit anything.

the zeners should be across the tweeter, and some series R between the 7 uF and
tweeter should always be present for limiting action to occur properly.



Check again and again and again.

And if you can, measure the impedance, and assume nothing.

Can I assume that you need a vacation?

As I explained at length in my private emails, I won't be taking any holiday.

I will try to refrain from involvement with postings about your speakers in
future
because I doubt the group has anything to gain at this point in time.

I'll let the blind lead the blind if that's what you want.

Patrick Turner.


west

Patrick Turner.