I just liked the beautifully built DIY project of
two Williamson monoblocks shown on these pages

http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Lese...Williamson.htm

The site is in German but you might enjoy the pictures.
I'm not affiliated with the builder nor the site owner.

Kind regards, Eike

Nice work on the chassis. The countersinking really makes a
difference.

Bob H.

"Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote:

I just liked the beautifully built DIY project of
two Williamson monoblocks shown on these pages

http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Lese...Williamson.htm

The site is in German but you might enjoy the pictures.
I'm not affiliated with the builder nor the site owner.

Kind regards, Eike

Bob H.

Just grab that plate in one hand, the chassis in the other,
and FEEL the power of tube audio!!!
(not literally, of course, just kidding. DON'T DO THAT!)

Very, very nice. They remind me of the two Williamsons I built in 1959 but
laid out on 4 7X11 chassises (2 for the amps, 2 for the power supplies).
All the wiring on the underside was in military terminal board style. Still
running great!!

"Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote in message
...
I just liked the beautifully built DIY project of
two Williamson monoblocks shown on these pages


http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Lese...Williamson.htm

The site is in German but you might enjoy the pictures.
I'm not affiliated with the builder nor the site owner.

Kind regards, Eike

I found a bunch of those military turret-style boards at Skyjunk (a
place we go to for stuff in Orlando, I forget the real name).

I snapped up every good one they had for a dollar a strip, 35 or so
cents for 5 pair boards. Theyre great for prototyping. I've got them
all over my 300B/2A3 prototype and other stuff. I've got HP ceramic
strips out of old o'scopes for the real thing.

Junque is great, and cheap.

Bob H.

wrote:

Very, very nice. They remind me of the two Williamsons I built in 1959 but
laid out on 4 7X11 chassises (2 for the amps, 2 for the power supplies).
All the wiring on the underside was in military terminal board style. Still
running great!!

"Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote in message
...
I just liked the beautifully built DIY project of
two Williamson monoblocks shown on these pages


http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Lese...Williamson.htm

The site is in German but you might enjoy the pictures.
I'm not affiliated with the builder nor the site owner.

Kind regards, Eike



Bob H.

Just grab that plate in one hand, the chassis in the other,
and FEEL the power of tube audio!!!
(not literally, of course, just kidding. DON'T DO THAT!)

Bob Hedberg wrote:

I found a bunch of those military turret-style boards at Skyjunk (a
place we go to for stuff in Orlando, I forget the real name).

I snapped up every good one they had for a dollar a strip, 35 or so
cents for 5 pair boards. Theyre great for prototyping. I've got them
all over my 300B/2A3 prototype and other stuff. I've got HP ceramic
strips out of old o'scopes for the real thing.

Junque is great, and cheap.

Bob H.

I have recently made some of my own terminal strips using
hardwood and 6 guage brass plated screws for the terminals.
4 guage would be OK. But pure brass c/s screws are also quite good,
and the heads of the screws can be nipped off
with end cutters to leave a stub of 6mm around which leads can be hooked and
soldered.
The beauty of DIY terminal strips like this is that layout can be tailored to suit
the amp,
and terminals can be used without waste, so unused terminals can be unscrewed from
the
timber strips.
Painting the strips with with varnish seals the wood, which should have an
extremely
long life in a dry clean environment within a well ventilated chassis area which
should be
designed to run fairly cool.
The timber I used is jarrah, but other Oz hardwood is OK, such as Vic ash, about
6mm x 8 mm in section is OK,
but rock maple from canada might do. Softwoods such as pine or pacific maple are
too
soft, and likely to become heat affected after 50 years in an amp.
Measuring for leakage current between a pair of screws embedded into the wood
reveals a resistance too high for my DVM to measure, and soldering is ok, and
doesn't melt
anything.
The sfiffness in the soldered up circuitry is better than the usual flimsy
phenolic tag strip
which although is effective, it looks cheap and nasty.

I have been looking around for some plastic or phenolic bar material
of the same section to suit the same idea of terminal screws, but so far the only
offerings have been from a a guy wanting to sell me teflon bar,
at rather a high price.

Patrick Turner.



wrote:

Very, very nice. They remind me of the two Williamsons I built in 1959 but
laid out on 4 7X11 chassises (2 for the amps, 2 for the power supplies).
All the wiring on the underside was in military terminal board style. Still
running great!!

"Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote in message
...
I just liked the beautifully built DIY project of
two Williamson monoblocks shown on these pages


http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Lese...Williamson.htm

The site is in German but you might enjoy the pictures.
I'm not affiliated with the builder nor the site owner.

Kind regards, Eike



Bob H.

Just grab that plate in one hand, the chassis in the other,
and FEEL the power of tube audio!!!
(not literally, of course, just kidding. DON'T DO THAT!)

Hey Patrick,
Can we see a couple of pics of how you milled the wood to fit the brass?

Did you inset a brass nut into the hardwood to accept the brass screw?

Doug


"Patrick Turner" wrote in message
...


Bob Hedberg wrote:

I found a bunch of those military turret-style boards at Skyjunk (a
place we go to for stuff in Orlando, I forget the real name).

I snapped up every good one they had for a dollar a strip, 35 or so
cents for 5 pair boards. Theyre great for prototyping. I've got them
all over my 300B/2A3 prototype and other stuff. I've got HP ceramic
strips out of old o'scopes for the real thing.

Junque is great, and cheap.

Bob H.

I have recently made some of my own terminal strips using
hardwood and 6 guage brass plated screws for the terminals.
4 guage would be OK. But pure brass c/s screws are also quite good,
and the heads of the screws can be nipped off
with end cutters to leave a stub of 6mm around which leads can be hooked
and
soldered.
The beauty of DIY terminal strips like this is that layout can be tailored
to suit
the amp,
and terminals can be used without waste, so unused terminals can be
unscrewed from
the
timber strips.
Painting the strips with with varnish seals the wood, which should have an
extremely
long life in a dry clean environment within a well ventilated chassis area
which
should be
designed to run fairly cool.
The timber I used is jarrah, but other Oz hardwood is OK, such as Vic ash,
about
6mm x 8 mm in section is OK,
but rock maple from canada might do. Softwoods such as pine or pacific
maple are
too
soft, and likely to become heat affected after 50 years in an amp.
Measuring for leakage current between a pair of screws embedded into the
wood
reveals a resistance too high for my DVM to measure, and soldering is ok,
and
doesn't melt
anything.
The sfiffness in the soldered up circuitry is better than the usual flimsy
phenolic tag strip
which although is effective, it looks cheap and nasty.

I have been looking around for some plastic or phenolic bar material
of the same section to suit the same idea of terminal screws, but so far
the only
offerings have been from a a guy wanting to sell me teflon bar,
at rather a high price.

Patrick Turner.



wrote:

Very, very nice. They remind me of the two Williamsons I built in 1959
but
laid out on 4 7X11 chassises (2 for the amps, 2 for the power
supplies).
All the wiring on the underside was in military terminal board style.
Still
running great!!

"Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote in message
...
I just liked the beautifully built DIY project of
two Williamson monoblocks shown on these pages



http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Lese...n/Williamson.h
tm

The site is in German but you might enjoy the pictures.
I'm not affiliated with the builder nor the site owner.

Kind regards, Eike



Bob H.

Just grab that plate in one hand, the chassis in the other,
and FEEL the power of tube audio!!!
(not literally, of course, just kidding. DON'T DO THAT!)

Doug Schultz wrote:

Hey Patrick,
Can we see a couple of pics of how you milled the wood to fit the brass?

Not yet until I upgrade the website yet again.

But I have a Dewalt bench saw, and electric planer,
and making hardwood strips about 6mm x 8mm is easy.
Then drill the holes for the tiny brass screws at 12mm c-c and you can easily
make your own terminal strips to run alongside the tube sockets.
Thet are much stronger than using tag strip boards with that unreinforced brown
phenolic board about 2mm thickx 8mm wide with metal tags.

I tried to find some heat resistant plastic, but all the specialist could offer
was square bars of teflon, and very expensive.

I know where to get 3 mm thick glass fibre reinforced board, which can be cut
into
10mm wide strips for tag boards, but its maybe not as heat resistant
to repeated soldering as the hardwood. Maybe Canadian rock maple would be good.


Did you inset a brass nut into the hardwood to accept the brass screw?

Nope, I used 4 guage wood screws about 5/8" long, used normally
for small cabinet door hinges.
These are screwed into the right size of hole to prevent splitting,
and the strip is bolted or screwed from the top of the chassis and held
off the bottom of the chassis underside with spacers to make sure the terminal
screws don't reach to the
chassis, and also allowing the running of wires below the strips against the
chassis.
The Oz hardwood like jarrah is ideal.
Just don't ever use yellow pine!

I have a very stuffed Lavoie oscilliscope which is full of re-cyclable parts
including ceramic terminal strips with metal U bits along the strips
to allow the leads to be laid in and soldered up in a puddle of solder.
That oscilliscope is a beautifully made peice of gear.

But very complex, and with miles of laced up cabling running all over it.
Its not repairable.

The idea of 3 dimensional neat wiring and neat laced cabling is very
good practice though, and a far cry from the messy internals of so many amps I
have seen.

Patrick Turner.



Doug

"Patrick Turner" wrote in message
...


Bob Hedberg wrote:

I found a bunch of those military turret-style boards at Skyjunk (a
place we go to for stuff in Orlando, I forget the real name).

I snapped up every good one they had for a dollar a strip, 35 or so
cents for 5 pair boards. Theyre great for prototyping. I've got them
all over my 300B/2A3 prototype and other stuff. I've got HP ceramic
strips out of old o'scopes for the real thing.

Junque is great, and cheap.

Bob H.

I have recently made some of my own terminal strips using
hardwood and 6 guage brass plated screws for the terminals.
4 guage would be OK. But pure brass c/s screws are also quite good,
and the heads of the screws can be nipped off
with end cutters to leave a stub of 6mm around which leads can be hooked
and
soldered.
The beauty of DIY terminal strips like this is that layout can be tailored
to suit
the amp,
and terminals can be used without waste, so unused terminals can be
unscrewed from
the
timber strips.
Painting the strips with with varnish seals the wood, which should have an
extremely
long life in a dry clean environment within a well ventilated chassis area
which
should be
designed to run fairly cool.
The timber I used is jarrah, but other Oz hardwood is OK, such as Vic ash,
about
6mm x 8 mm in section is OK,
but rock maple from canada might do. Softwoods such as pine or pacific
maple are
too
soft, and likely to become heat affected after 50 years in an amp.
Measuring for leakage current between a pair of screws embedded into the
wood
reveals a resistance too high for my DVM to measure, and soldering is ok,
and
doesn't melt
anything.
The sfiffness in the soldered up circuitry is better than the usual flimsy
phenolic tag strip
which although is effective, it looks cheap and nasty.

I have been looking around for some plastic or phenolic bar material
of the same section to suit the same idea of terminal screws, but so far
the only
offerings have been from a a guy wanting to sell me teflon bar,
at rather a high price.

Patrick Turner.



wrote:

Very, very nice. They remind me of the two Williamsons I built in 1959
but
laid out on 4 7X11 chassises (2 for the amps, 2 for the power
supplies).
All the wiring on the underside was in military terminal board style.
Still
running great!!

"Eike Lantzsch, ZP6CGE" wrote in message
...
I just liked the beautifully built DIY project of
two Williamson monoblocks shown on these pages



http://www.jogis-roehrenbude.de/Lese...n/Williamson.h
tm

The site is in German but you might enjoy the pictures.
I'm not affiliated with the builder nor the site owner.

Kind regards, Eike



Bob H.

Just grab that plate in one hand, the chassis in the other,
and FEEL the power of tube audio!!!
(not literally, of course, just kidding. DON'T DO THAT!)