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need advice on improving room acoustics
my studio is about 17'x23'x8' with carpet floor, sheetrock walls and
ceiling. no drapes or other acoustic damping materials. baby grand piano, chairs, music cabinets, etc. i do a variety of mostly classical acoustic instrument recording, solos, duos, small ensembles, like flute and piano, violin and harp, oboes, etc. my gear is pretty good now, and i can tell that my room holds my sound back more than anything else at this point. but i dont know if i should make the room deader, like a big isolation area, or if i should make the room more live for a more natural ambience. should i add drapes, etc, or should i replace the carpet with a wood floor? or will this room alwasy be crappy just because it has an 8' ceiling? thanks for your comments. |
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need advice on improving room acoustics
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#4
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need advice on improving room acoustics
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#5
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need advice on improving room acoustics
JN,
my studio is about 17'x23'x8' That's not a great ratio, but it's large enough to get good results by adding proper acoustic treatment. with carpet floor, sheetrock walls and ceiling. no drapes or other acoustic damping materials. For the type of acoustic music you're recording you should reverse the floor and ceiling. Remove the carpet to have a reflective floor, then make the ceiling partly or fully absorbent with rigid fiberglass. A hard floor doesn't have to be expensive wood. Lineloum or even bare painted cement sound equally good. i dont know if i should make the room deader ... or if i should make the room more live for a more natural ambience. Your room is large enough to take advantage of ambience. Ideally you want some ambience, but controlled by selective placement of absorbing materials. That is, you don't want all the surfaces bare OR all covered with drapes or other absorbers. Applying absorption in a vertical striped pattern is good, as is a 2x2 or 2x4 foot checkerboard pattern. For a room that size you want somewhere between 20 and 40 percent of the surfaces covered with absorbing material - maybe a little more if you include the ceiling in that figure. Note that all rooms need absorption at low frequencies as well as at mid and high frequencies. This requires material much more substantial than just drapes or thin foam. or will this room always be crappy just because it has an 8' ceiling? Not at all, and that's the main reason to deaden the ceiling. A ceiling that is 100 percent absorptive is identical acoustically to a ceiling that's infinitely high. That is, it doesn't matter if sound is not reflected down from the ceiling because it absorbs or because it's very far away. I suggest you see my Acoustics FAQ which explains room treatment in great detail. It's 10th in the list on my Articles page: www.ethanwiner.com/articles.html --Ethan |
#6
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need advice on improving room acoustics
Scott wrote
More live doesn't mean it has to be less flat. I'm not for sure but would more live = less dead? And does alot of damping not make things live? |
#7
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need advice on improving room acoustics
Raymond,
would more live = less dead? And does alot of damping not make things live? Live and dead are opposite. An empty bedroom in a new house is very live. A closet filled with clothes - damping material - is very dead. Good recording and control room are somewhere between those extremes. See my Acoustics FAQ referenced above for much more detail. --Ethan |
#8
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need advice on improving room acoustics
Raymond wrote:
Scott wrote More live doesn't mean it has to be less flat. I'm not for sure but would more live = less dead? And does alot of damping not make things live? More live means a longer reverb time. More dead means a shorter reverb time. (Given the same room volume, of course.) You can have a room without severe frequency response aberrations that is live, or one that is dead. You can have a room with bigtime standing waves in the low end, and you can have one with bigtime peaks and dips in the top end, that is live. Or one that is dead. A lot of damping will make things dead, but most damping is frequency selective. You throw a lot of thin foam into a room and now your high frequencies are damped, but the low end is unchanged. You put a bass trap in, and your low frequencies are damped, but the high end is unchanged. You can also use diffusion to change the frequency response of the room without changing the overall reverb time much. Bookcases can be a very handy tool for this. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#9
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need advice on improving room acoustics
scott wrote
More live means a longer reverb time. More dead means a shorter reverb time. (Given the same room volume, of course.) Larger room + longer Reverb time? |
#10
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need advice on improving room acoustics
I'm not for sure but would more live = less dead?
Yes, more live means more reflective, more reverberant, less absorptive. And does alot of damping not make things live? A lot of damping does not make things live. Damping is absorption. Scott Fraser |
#11
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need advice on improving room acoustics
be careful with diffusors. They seem to make a dead room more life but
that is mostly a high frequency issue. and with those vertical diffurors you get some nasty high frequency tones/hiss in the reflection back in the direction of the source, especially at shallow angles of incidence. in my humble opinion we should not be running to the RPG's of this world and spend hundreds of dollars in... adding nasty sound. yes, if you ahve a back-slap echo a schroeder diffusor may help, but if the area that has a shallow angle of incidence to these surfaces is important (because audience, mics or musicians sit there) try other solutions. in this small room, I'd start with base absorber of the panel type. see ethan's site for great links and examples. The surface of these do not necessarily have to be absorbtive, they could be simply 1/4" plywood. if that is too much, glue a small layer of felt on them (1/16" construction felt can don wonders). If you'd panel one of the walls (preferably the heaviest one), size them so that wall is no longer in parallel with the opposite wall, that way you can also 'trap' some flutter conditions that might exist. then dampen (read: felt/fiberglass) the wall towards which the reflections are directed. just a few thoughts... rt60 On 26 Aug 2003 03:38:51 -0700, (Paul C. Weber) wrote: (jnorman) wrote in message . com... my studio is about 17'x23'x8' with carpet floor, sheetrock walls and ceiling. no drapes or other acoustic damping materials. baby grand piano, chairs, music cabinets, etc. i do a variety of mostly classical acoustic instrument recording, solos, duos, small ensembles, like flute and piano, violin and harp, oboes, etc. my gear is pretty good now, and i can tell that my room holds my sound back more than anything else at this point. but i dont know if i should make the room deader, like a big isolation area, or if i should make the room more live for a more natural ambience. should i add drapes, etc, or should i replace the carpet with a wood floor? or will this room alwasy be crappy just because it has an 8' ceiling? thanks for your comments. Add *diffusors* instead of damping material... check out RPG and Auralex' stuff. Your risk is that if you damp with curtains you won't really take care of lo-freq resonance, which should be dealt with by means of Helmholtz resonators and bass traps, such as TubeTraps. Check out ethanwiner.com for examples of home made bass traps; Ethan also records / playas classical music (cello, I believe). Oh yeah.... Check out F. Alton Everest's "Handbook of Acoustics" for more info. Acoustics are a very complex argument and should be dealt with care. G'luck! Paul Weber |
#12
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need advice on improving room acoustics
Raymond wrote
Larger room + longer Reverb time? Opps that should have been = not + Scott wrote That's also true. In a small room, most of the reflections you get are going to be short reflections from nearby surfaces. If it's a very live room, the reverb time can still be fairly long. Being a small room = many bouncing reflections? (depending on room construction) If its a small room the reflections (some frequencies) can be sharp or hard to control no matter what you do to the walls? In a large room, the reverb time will be longer, because most of the reflections are coming from distant surfaces. Yes, frequency is time/distance or size right? Whether high or low frequency reflections predominate is a seperate issue. So if your planning on using the room for a live guitar (small set range of frequencies) will be different than if you want to use it for a full set of drums (larger set of frequencies) etc.? In general, short reflections from nearby objects dominate so much in a small room that reverb time becomes a useless measurement. But we can still talk about "perceived liveness." Your talking about pre/early-decay (I think) right? So a room (hopefully a large one) with no points of obstruction will give a larger revearb time yes? Forgive my ?'s but It maybe worth discussing. |
#13
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need advice on improving room acoustics
Raymond wrote:
Raymond wrote Larger room + longer Reverb time? Opps that should have been = not + Scott wrote That's also true. In a small room, most of the reflections you get are going to be short reflections from nearby surfaces. If it's a very live room, the reverb time can still be fairly long. Being a small room = many bouncing reflections? (depending on room construction) If its a small room the reflections (some frequencies) can be sharp or hard to control no matter what you do to the walls? If it's a live small room, there will be many bouncing reflections. If it is a dead small room, there won't be. In all cases, the reflections that predominate will be ones that come a short time after the original peak, rather than longer term ones. This is why small rooms can sound boxy if they are very live. In a large room, the reverb time will be longer, because most of the reflections are coming from distant surfaces. Yes, frequency is time/distance or size right? The only time you want to think about frequency in terms of distance is when you're worrying about standing waves. In this case, the reflections that come back can be any frequency at all... the reflectivity of the surfaces in the room can have high end or low end dominating, it doesn't matter to the fact that it's a live room. Whether high or low frequency reflections predominate is a seperate issue. So if your planning on using the room for a live guitar (small set range of frequencies) will be different than if you want to use it for a full set of drums (larger set of frequencies) etc.? Not really, you still want a room with a generally flat frequency response and a fairly long and even reverb. The length of the reverb decay that you want for a drum kit will probably be longer than you want for guitar, but it's easy to shorten it or deaden it with gobos. In general, short reflections from nearby objects dominate so much in a small room that reverb time becomes a useless measurement. But we can still talk about "perceived liveness." Your talking about pre/early-decay (I think) right? So a room (hopefully a large one) with no points of obstruction will give a larger revearb time yes? Not necessarily. But if there are no points of obstruction, there will be more of a chance that you'll get discrete echoes from the surfaces rather than a nice even decay. And that's bad too. Forgive my ?'s but It maybe worth discussing. The F. Alton Everest introduction to small studio acoustics is well worth checking out. --scott -- "C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis." |
#14
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need advice on improving room acoustics
RT,
with those vertical diffusors One thing many people don't realize is diffusion is not useful in small rooms. According to Dr. Antonio's FAQ at the RPG site, the distance between your ears and a diffuser should be at least ten feet. Less distance than that and adding diffusion actually harms the sound. This also holds for diffusion on the ceiling. Unless your ceiling is 15 or more feet high, putting a diffuser there is a mistake. --Ethan |
#15
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need advice on improving room acoustics
scott wrote
The F. Alton Everest introduction to small studio acoustics is well worth checking out. This what you where talking about? http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...-2824837-98536 31?v=glance Or this? http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...=pd_sim_books_ 5/002-2824837-9853631?v=glance&s=books Both look good with mixed reviews. |
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need advice on improving room acoustics
Hello Ethan,
devils advocate: sure doesn't work in a very small room to have flat surfaces all around. most diffusion is of course in practice cause by furniture and the different materials used for floors, walls and ceilings. with regard to RPG's science, I tend to take their interpretation of their own research with a grain of salt. I have seen and heard spaces with their material and applied with their endorsement that makes me doubt their science. gives me the same feeling sometimes as when I read about dr. bose. their attitude is to design a room and then buy the acoustics via mail-order, next-day delivery; it just doesn't work that way. when I mention diffusion I do not necessarily refer to expensive panels from a factory. I refer to a means to diffract some of the sound. the diffusion should be scaled to the need (1/4 wavelength idea, plus the broadening of the bandwidth by use of varying materials). skylines are possbily one of the better panels for smaller rooms as far as the factory panels is concerned, because it is a combination of mid frequency absorption and some decent high frequency diffusion. can take care of some harshness that is just short of identified flutter. with the vertical diffusors (schroeder type) angle of incidence is the most important issue. if that is close to straight-on for source and destination, the side effects can be acceptable... just don't use too much of it, it hurts when you play flageolets on the A string ;-) rt60 On Thu, 28 Aug 2003 10:34:30 -0400, "Ethan Winer" ethan at ethanwiner dot com wrote: RT, with those vertical diffusors One thing many people don't realize is diffusion is not useful in small rooms. According to Dr. Antonio's FAQ at the RPG site, the distance between your ears and a diffuser should be at least ten feet. Less distance than that and adding diffusion actually harms the sound. This also holds for diffusion on the ceiling. Unless your ceiling is 15 or more feet high, putting a diffuser there is a mistake. --Ethan |
#17
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need advice on improving room acoustics
Being a small room = many bouncing reflections? (depending on room
construction) Not necessarily. You can have a very dead small room, as well as a large room with a lot of direct reflections. Large rooms tend to diffuse into reverb, though. If its a small room the reflections (some frequencies) can be sharp or hard to control no matter what you do to the walls? Not necessarily. You can make an anechoic small room. What you can't do is fool the ear into believing the room is larger, because the early reflections are easily discernible as coming from a short distance away. So a room (hopefully a large one) with no points of obstruction will give a larger revearb time yes? Reverb decay time is often longer is larger rooms, but it's very easy to make rooms where the opposite is true. It's all in the ratio of absorption to reflection of the surfaces. All things being equal (which they never are, but let's say they are for example) a large room that is an identical version of a small room, just multiplied in every dimension, will be more reverberant than the identical small room, & will be easily perceivable as larger due to the longer path for first reflections, greater degree of diffusion & greater absorption of highs in the contained air. Scott Fraser |
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need advice on improving room acoustics
Ethan,
Au contrare, I absolutely agree that it is good to reduce the level of the first reflections. But now we're talking about a control room, and not a recording space, I suppose. Diffusion at that the point of the primary reflection will widen the image quite a bit. I would be inclined to put diffusion on the side walls behind the listening position for stereo listening, and scatter the back wall in bigger blocks. The complication is that this is the area where the first wall-reflection for the surround loudspeaker is traced. When we start to get into that, there are multiple paths and ideas to follow, and we'd have to get to real-life situations before determining what would be the better approach, as part of this is the location and angle of the surround loudspeaker and its radiation pattern. Then add-in the issues involving the HRTF (see latest JAES for some new research on that) and the use of 'side-panned' source locations, and you'll find that interpreting acoustics is a journey similar to playing BWV 1007 thru 1012 ;-) rt60 On Fri, 29 Aug 2003 11:28:49 -0400, "Ethan Winer" ethan at ethanwiner dot com wrote: RT, most diffusion is of course in practice cause by furniture Good point. when I read about dr. bose Nuff said. :-) Dr. Bose may well be a genius - I have no idea - but all the products of his I've heard are pretty awful. Anyway, thanks for the clarification. I'm still getting up to speed on diffusion. As I understand it, the main problem with installing diffusers on nearby surfaces is you still have "early reflections," and broadly diffusing them just confuses the imaging even more. The studio designers I've discussed this with all told me they recommend broadband absorption on any nearby surface that could yield a primary reflection, which makes sense to me. But conflicting opinions are always welcome! --Ethan |
#19
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need advice on improving room acoustics
Scott,
Those are all good points, and I'll add just two relevant bits about reverb Amount versus reverb Time in large versus small rooms: The primary cause of absorption in a room is the walls, floor, and ceiling. Even with relatively hard surfaces like painted sheetrock, the walls still absorb much more than the air. Since it takes longer for, say, five bounces to travel around a large room, that is the primary reason a large room seems more reverberant. Not so much that there's more reverb expressed as dB below the original, but mainly that it lingers longer. Also, in small rooms those bounces happen so quickly that much of the reflected sound combines in the ear with the original direct sound. Anything that happens within 20 milliseconds or so is not heard as separate echoes or ambience. So the first few bounces, which are the most audible, blend with the original source. --Ethan |
#20
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need advice on improving room acoustics
Scott,
the ear can easily determine the size of the room by the time displacement of the early reflections from the direct sound. Yes, exactly. --Ethan |
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need advice on improving room acoustics
Ethan,
Undesirable indeed. Hence the absorption at the point of the first reflection. Not perse problematic for determining ambiance, depending on the definition of that word (JAES is tackling the definition envelopment in the latest issue, another one of those abused words; I do seem plug that fab mag here, maybe I should quote Asterix and Obelix sometime). Worse is that basic aspects like the AB gap and unstable image will be harder to verify. Ambiance ma be fuzzier in balance, but does not need to be problematic. The amount of action you can take to reduce the level of that first lateral refection in the control room does beg the question if 10 dB down (which is sort-a the goal here) is enough to fall within the definition of natural, herin referring to your 'artificial and unnatural' ;-) Defining that may become a tricky adventure. Anyway, just developing into splitting hairs here, and trying to find out what your lingo is. So far seems to go well, but then again, you're a cellist, or so I deduct ;-) rt60 On Sat, 30 Aug 2003 09:28:35 -0400, "Ethan Winer" ethan at ethanwiner dot com wrote: RT, Diffusion at that the point of the primary reflection will widen the image quite a bit. Okay, but anything that artificially and unnaturally widens the image when making mix decisions seems like a bad idea, no? Sort of like mixing in a room with too much ambience, so you apply too little to the mix. you'll find that interpreting acoustics is a journey similar to playing BWV 1007 thru 1012 ;-) Does this mean there's another cellist in the group? --Ethan |
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need advice on improving room acoustics
RT,
Undesirable indeed. Hence the absorption at the point of the first reflection. Perhaps I misunderstood because originally you said, "Diffusion at the point of the primary reflection will widen the image quite a bit." So I thought you were proposing that. does beg the question if 10 dB down (which is sort-a the goal here) is enough How much an absorbing panel attenuates is less relevant than how low in frequency it works to. Even half an inch of 703 rigid fiberglass absorbs 100% at the upper mids and above. As the material is made thicker and denser it's absorption extends lower. I recently added absorption on the side walls and ceiling of my control room to make an RFZ, and I used 2-inch thick 705-FRK to make the zone effective down to low frequencies. trying to find out what your lingo is. So far seems to go well, but then again, you're a cellist, or so I deduct ;-) Ha, my "lingo" is all over the map as I have MANY interests - music theory, skepticism, acoustics, electronic circuits, consumerism, guitar and cello playing, audio and recording, computer programming. It's all on my web site www.ethanwiner.com. --Ethan |
#23
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need advice on improving room acoustics
Ethan,
I had seen your website, in fact, referred some-one to in in this thread. I was kidding around a bit. Anyway, we seem to be running in parallels... I like the skepticism part quite a bit. The 2" will get you to about -10dB btw; that is about what we do. I'll look up some measurements for that, if you like. RU attending the AES convention by any chance? rt60 off to the etude nicknamed humbadada... On Tue, 2 Sep 2003 08:53:49 -0400, "Ethan Winer" ethan at ethanwiner dot com wrote: RT, Undesirable indeed. Hence the absorption at the point of the first reflection. Perhaps I misunderstood because originally you said, "Diffusion at the point of the primary reflection will widen the image quite a bit." So I thought you were proposing that. does beg the question if 10 dB down (which is sort-a the goal here) is enough How much an absorbing panel attenuates is less relevant than how low in frequency it works to. Even half an inch of 703 rigid fiberglass absorbs 100% at the upper mids and above. As the material is made thicker and denser it's absorption extends lower. I recently added absorption on the side walls and ceiling of my control room to make an RFZ, and I used 2-inch thick 705-FRK to make the zone effective down to low frequencies. trying to find out what your lingo is. So far seems to go well, but then again, you're a cellist, or so I deduct ;-) Ha, my "lingo" is all over the map as I have MANY interests - music theory, skepticism, acoustics, electronic circuits, consumerism, guitar and cello playing, audio and recording, computer programming. It's all on my web site www.ethanwiner.com. --Ethan |
#24
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need advice on improving room acoustics
RT,
RU attending the AES convention by any chance? Not only attending, but also exhibiting! I've gone to most of the NYC shows for the past 30+ years, but this is the first time I have a company with audio products to sell. Please stop by the RealTraps display at Booth #1045 and say Hi. off to the etude nicknamed humbadada... I don't know that one. What instrument do you play? --Ethan |
#25
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need advice on improving room acoustics
If I am allowed to go I will certainly visit.
rt60 Try Duport... On Wed, 3 Sep 2003 10:23:23 -0400, "Ethan Winer" ethan at ethanwiner dot com wrote: RT, RU attending the AES convention by any chance? Not only attending, but also exhibiting! I've gone to most of the NYC shows for the past 30+ years, but this is the first time I have a company with audio products to sell. Please stop by the RealTraps display at Booth #1045 and say Hi. off to the etude nicknamed humbadada... I don't know that one. What instrument do you play? --Ethan |
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