I am currently fixing up one of my rides. A 1997 Suburban LT. I just
bought a MA Audio HK4000D and 2 Adire Brahma 15s. I havent installed
anything yet, since I am sure the stock alternator (200amps) is not
enough. I do plan on adding 2 more amps, about 4 or 5 LCD Tvs, PS2, and
LED underbody lighting for a total of about 6KW power for the whole
system. I am not sure what I should get first. Alternator or cap. I
talked to a local shop today and they suggested I combination of at
least a 300 amp alt and 20farad capacitor bank (like those new Rockford
carbon deals). What should I look for. There are a lot to choose from.
Stinger, etc. I just need some good advice on what too look for when
making a purchase decision. I plan on installing everything myself. But
this is the first charging system upgrade I've done other than a deep
cycler battery. Do you guys think a battery isolator setup is a good
idea (one battery dedicated to audio/video)? There doesnt seem to be
many other Suburban owners that have been able to help me as they arent
running quite as powerful a system as I am planning on.

Any help appreciated.

EFFENDI

"EFFENDI" wrote in message
...
I am currently fixing up one of my rides. A 1997 Suburban LT. I just
bought a MA Audio HK4000D and 2 Adire Brahma 15s. I havent installed
anything yet, since I am sure the stock alternator (200amps) is not
enough. I do plan on adding 2 more amps, about 4 or 5 LCD Tvs, PS2, and
LED underbody lighting for a total of about 6KW power for the whole
system. I am not sure what I should get first. Alternator or cap. I
talked to a local shop today and they suggested I combination of at
least a 300 amp alt and 20farad capacitor bank (like those new Rockford
carbon deals). What should I look for. There are a lot to choose from.
Stinger, etc. I just need some good advice on what too look for when
making a purchase decision. I plan on installing everything myself. But
this is the first charging system upgrade I've done other than a deep
cycler battery. Do you guys think a battery isolator setup is a good
idea (one battery dedicated to audio/video)? There doesnt seem to be
many other Suburban owners that have been able to help me as they arent
running quite as powerful a system as I am planning on.

Any help appreciated.

EFFENDI

"EFFENDI" wrote in message
...
I am currently fixing up one of my rides. A 1997 Suburban LT. I just
bought a MA Audio HK4000D and 2 Adire Brahma 15s. I havent installed
anything yet, since I am sure the stock alternator (200amps) is not
enough.

Don't be sure until you do. These things are actually hard to predict unless
it is a gross overload. You may not need to upgrade anything, or perhaps an
upgrade that is not a cost and install intensive will solve the problem.

I do plan on adding 2 more amps, about 4 or 5 LCD Tvs, PS2, and
LED underbody lighting for a total of about 6KW power for the whole
system.

Well you are talking about 6kw of power PEAK. You will not draw that much
power continuously. The screens, PS2, and even the neon will not draw that
much.

I am not sure what I should get first. Alternator or cap. I
talked to a local shop today and they suggested I combination of at
least a 300 amp alt and 20farad capacitor bank (like those new Rockford
carbon deals). What should I look for. There are a lot to choose from.
Stinger, etc. I just need some good advice on what too look for when
making a purchase decision. I plan on installing everything myself. But
this is the first charging system upgrade I've done other than a deep
cycler battery. Do you guys think a battery isolator setup is a good
idea (one battery dedicated to audio/video)? There doesnt seem to be
many other Suburban owners that have been able to help me as they arent
running quite as powerful a system as I am planning on.

Any help appreciated.

I think that first off you need to actually install everything and see IF
you have a problem. You may not have anything to fix. And be sure you figure
out exactly what the problem is. If you merely have some headlight dimming
then that may be solved quite inexpensivly. Once you get the sytem installed
then you can figure out how to solve the problem, if any.

Les

I am currently fixing up one of my rides. A 1997 Suburban LT.

You may want to actually have the vehicle in your possesion, first.

I just
bought a MA Audio HK4000D and 2 Adire Brahma 15s.

The Adire's are good. IMO: The MA Audio, is not.

I havent installed
anything yet, since I am sure the stock alternator (200amps) is not
enough.

Then how do you know its not enough, if you have nothing installed? I have
a stock alternator in my 95' with a 454 big block. and i'm running 4
IDQ12V.2 D4's off 2 PPI PCX-2400 amps.. i'm also running an A/D/S powerplate
6.25 pushing my front infinity components. plus my headunit and processors.
Plus a cb and ham radio..

I dont have any of that extra junk like LED lighting, etc... i do have 2
sets of Hella Black Magic offroad fog lights and a setup of high power HID
headlamps. but no neon, etc... i also dont have any LCD screens,
playstations, etc... but i think my system will take more power than yours.

The only after market upgrade to the power system is an Optima Red Top, and
thats it.

I am not sure what I should get first. Alternator or cap. I
talked to a local shop today and they suggested I combination of at
least a 300 amp alt and 20farad capacitor bank (like those new Rockford
carbon deals).

Well, quite honestly, caps do ****, they do nothing for you, anything you
may think they do, is all in your head. its been proven by the guys here and
elsewhere that they do nothing. i was skepticle at first when a few started
saying it, but there are experiements and results proving they do nothing.

What i would do is get another battery, AFTER you've confirmed you will have
a power issue. like i said, i still have the stock alt. and everything is
fine with my setup.

I plan on installing everything myself.

Maybe you should know some things, first.

There doesnt seem to be
many other Suburban owners that have been able to help me as they arent
running quite as powerful a system as I am planning on.

Like i said before, you're system isnt going to be as "powerful" as you
think. You're running little cheesy accesories, like LEDs and LCD screens,
these dont take much power, as there is nothing to them..

When you're running real equipment thats of decent stature, and you have
alot of it, you should have cause for concern with the system.


"total of about 6KW power" - Yea right.


DJ TecThreat
The Real Threat

DJ TecThreat wrote:
I am currently fixing up one of my rides. A 1997 Suburban LT.


You may want to actually have the vehicle in your possesion, first.


I just
bought a MA Audio HK4000D and 2 Adire Brahma 15s.


The Adire's are good. IMO: The MA Audio, is not.


I havent installed
anything yet, since I am sure the stock alternator (200amps) is not
enough.


Then how do you know its not enough, if you have nothing installed? I have
a stock alternator in my 95' with a 454 big block. and i'm running 4
IDQ12V.2 D4's off 2 PPI PCX-2400 amps.. i'm also running an A/D/S powerplate
6.25 pushing my front infinity components. plus my headunit and processors.
Plus a cb and ham radio..

I dont have any of that extra junk like LED lighting, etc... i do have 2
sets of Hella Black Magic offroad fog lights and a setup of high power HID
headlamps. but no neon, etc... i also dont have any LCD screens,
playstations, etc... but i think my system will take more power than yours.

The only after market upgrade to the power system is an Optima Red Top, and
thats it.


I am not sure what I should get first. Alternator or cap. I
talked to a local shop today and they suggested I combination of at
least a 300 amp alt and 20farad capacitor bank (like those new Rockford
carbon deals).


Well, quite honestly, caps do ****, they do nothing for you, anything you
may think they do, is all in your head. its been proven by the guys here and
elsewhere that they do nothing. i was skepticle at first when a few started
saying it, but there are experiements and results proving they do nothing.

What i would do is get another battery, AFTER you've confirmed you will have
a power issue. like i said, i still have the stock alt. and everything is
fine with my setup.


I plan on installing everything myself.


Maybe you should know some things, first.


There doesnt seem to be
many other Suburban owners that have been able to help me as they arent
running quite as powerful a system as I am planning on.


Like i said before, you're system isnt going to be as "powerful" as you
think. You're running little cheesy accesories, like LEDs and LCD screens,
these dont take much power, as there is nothing to them..

When you're running real equipment thats of decent stature, and you have
alot of it, you should have cause for concern with the system.


"total of about 6KW power" - Yea right.


DJ TecThreat
The Real Threat




i guess you didnt understand what i meant about any HELP appreciated.
criticism is not necessary. i dont see what is wrong with the equipment
i have. the brahmas are proven to be very good subs and no one i have
talked to has had any problems with MA Audio - its just your opinion.
the only reason i posted this was because i just bought the setup and
dont want to go to the trouble of upgrading AFTER i have the system
installed. extra junk? cheesy? 'scuse me if you are too busy talking to
truckers on the CB...i got kids to keep entertained. i came out with it
telling you what the salesperson told me. make your judgement on what
they said not me. i would like to see some valid resources to back up
your statement that a cap does nothing..ever heard of a BatCap? might
want to check it out. I think they are a advantage over a stock charging
system - when you are running a 17 volt charging system the amplifier is
capable of drawing as much as 300 amps according to the manufacturer. I
honestly dont think a stock alternator is enough. i checked it today and
it is only 120amps (delphi) and i figure half of that is just to run the
stock electronics. i do plan on entering competition with this vehicle
and i did not mention any of the other equipment that i have. i dont
think 6000 watts is an unrealistic estimate considering that all the
other full-range speakers (8) are at least 200 watts RMS each. that is
another 1600 watts. im sorry if you feel "threatened", whatever homie...

all im asking for any suggestions not telling me that my equipment is
not as good as yours. you probably spent twice as much as i did and i
probably have just as good sounding system as you. you got some kind of
issue you need to work out in therapy or something. learn how to
communicate effectively. you are a big man to threaten people - on the
internet? just another internet hater........oh yeah and thanks for all
your "help".

EFFENDI

i just bought the setup and
dont want to go to the trouble of upgrading AFTER i have the system
installed.

Well, upgrading the alt would not be hard to do after the fact. If you leave
enough slack on your main power wire then if you decide to do the battery
for the audio then that should be easy. So I think your best bet is to
install it and see what problems you run into, then fix them.

extra junk? cheesy? 'scuse me if you are too busy talking to
truckers on the CB...i got kids to keep entertained. i came out with it
telling you what the salesperson told me. make your judgement on what
they said not me. i would like to see some valid resources to back up
your statement that a cap does nothing..ever heard of a BatCap? might
want to check it out.

Keep in mind that the amp designers already put the neccessary caps for the
amp in them. Caps have a place but where they fail to perform is over long
sustained power draws. I have found that for most systems a cap will not
perform the way people expect them too. I would go with a second battery
before I got one.

I think they are a advantage over a stock charging
system - when you are running a 17 volt charging system the amplifier is
capable of drawing as much as 300 amps according to the manufacturer.

300 amps?? That would over 4000watts, I am assuming they mean peak. BTW the
size wire you would need to actually run that much current would be around 2
ought. Take a look on some welding website and see the actual size of that
large wire. 2 problems you will run into, one you probably won't find a
distro block that large easily, and two you will have a hard time finding
flexible wire. Of course you could go with a few sets of 2 gauge properly
fused but that is still alot of wire. You also need to be careful with your
supply voltage. Some 12 volt gear does not appreciate 17 volts.

I
honestly dont think a stock alternator is enough. i checked it today and
it is only 120amps (delphi) and i figure half of that is just to run the
stock electronics. i do plan on entering competition with this vehicle
and i did not mention any of the other equipment that i have. i dont
think 6000 watts is an unrealistic estimate considering that all the
other full-range speakers (8) are at least 200 watts RMS each. that is
another 1600 watts.

It may not, but nonetheless install it first. I ran 4 18"s with their own
1000 watt amp in my last Bronco and it ran off of a, I think, 140 amp
alternator and I had no problems.

Once you get it installed you will be able to find out what problems, if
any, need help. Remember, don't fix it if it ain't broken.

Les

Les wrote:
i just bought the setup and

dont want to go to the trouble of upgrading AFTER i have the system
installed.


Well, upgrading the alt would not be hard to do after the fact. If you leave
enough slack on your main power wire then if you decide to do the battery
for the audio then that should be easy. So I think your best bet is to
install it and see what problems you run into, then fix them.

extra junk? cheesy? 'scuse me if you are too busy talking to

truckers on the CB...i got kids to keep entertained. i came out with it
telling you what the salesperson told me. make your judgement on what
they said not me. i would like to see some valid resources to back up
your statement that a cap does nothing..ever heard of a BatCap? might
want to check it out.


Keep in mind that the amp designers already put the neccessary caps for the
amp in them. Caps have a place but where they fail to perform is over long
sustained power draws. I have found that for most systems a cap will not
perform the way people expect them too. I would go with a second battery
before I got one.

I think they are a advantage over a stock charging

system - when you are running a 17 volt charging system the amplifier is
capable of drawing as much as 300 amps according to the manufacturer.


300 amps?? That would over 4000watts, I am assuming they mean peak. BTW the
size wire you would need to actually run that much current would be around 2
ought. Take a look on some welding website and see the actual size of that
large wire. 2 problems you will run into, one you probably won't find a
distro block that large easily, and two you will have a hard time finding
flexible wire. Of course you could go with a few sets of 2 gauge properly
fused but that is still alot of wire. You also need to be careful with your
supply voltage. Some 12 volt gear does not appreciate 17 volts.

I

honestly dont think a stock alternator is enough. i checked it today and
it is only 120amps (delphi) and i figure half of that is just to run the
stock electronics. i do plan on entering competition with this vehicle
and i did not mention any of the other equipment that i have. i dont
think 6000 watts is an unrealistic estimate considering that all the
other full-range speakers (8) are at least 200 watts RMS each. that is
another 1600 watts.


It may not, but nonetheless install it first. I ran 4 18"s with their own
1000 watt amp in my last Bronco and it ran off of a, I think, 140 amp
alternator and I had no problems.

Once you get it installed you will be able to find out what problems, if
any, need help. Remember, don't fix it if it ain't broken.

Les



actually i have a 0awg kit i just bought and will install next week. so
i'm covered as far as wiring. Stinger has a great kit for 85 dollars on
sounddomain and it is supposed to be pretty flexible. im still waiting
for the amp to be delivered. the amp is capable of 4000 watts RMS. Other
users of this amp have had it verified output of upwards of 6000 watts
peak in a 1 ohm load (14.4volts). (if i can remember where i saw the
documentation i will supply it.) I havent bought the alternator yet but
i can get a deal on a 17 volt model. I think it might be too much and i
would have to use a voltage regulator for the rest of the vehicle's
electronics. like i said i am just making plans. like any good system
you should have a plan before installing. but we'll see. i will most
likely buy a BatCap Model 400 - says it can deliver 400 amps for 8
seconds - (it is slow drain capacitor but read their website -
www.batcap.net) and use it in conjuntion with a deep cycle battery. i
dont want to fry my alt. i know my habits as soon as i install it i am
going to push the system as hard as i can. im not going to throw
thousands away without some insurance, nah mean?

thanks for YOUR help Les.

EFFENDI

I am currently fixing up one of my rides. A 1997 Suburban LT.

You may want to actually have the vehicle in your possesion, first.

I just
bought a MA Audio HK4000D and 2 Adire Brahma 15s.

The Adire's are good. IMO: The MA Audio, is not.

What's wrong with it?


I havent installed
anything yet, since I am sure the stock alternator (200amps) is not
enough.

Then how do you know its not enough, if you have nothing installed? I
have
a stock alternator in my 95' with a 454 big block. and i'm running 4
IDQ12V.2 D4's off 2 PPI PCX-2400 amps.. i'm also running an A/D/S
powerplate
6.25 pushing my front infinity components. plus my headunit and
processors.
Plus a cb and ham radio..

The a/d/s/ is good. IMO, the infinities are not.

I am not sure what I should get first. Alternator or cap. I
talked to a local shop today and they suggested I combination of at
least a 300 amp alt and 20farad capacitor bank (like those new Rockford
carbon deals).

Well, quite honestly, caps do ****, they do nothing for you, anything you
may think they do, is all in your head. its been proven by the guys here
and
elsewhere that they do nothing. i was skepticle at first when a few
started
saying it, but there are experiements and results proving they do nothing.

What did they prove?

What i would do is get another battery, AFTER you've confirmed you will
have
a power issue. like i said, i still have the stock alt. and everything is
fine with my setup.

I plan on installing everything myself.

Maybe you should know some things, first.

He'll learn it best by doing it himself. Even if he screws up, he'll do no
worse than a "professional" installer, and in the process he'll learn a lot.

Keep in mind that the amp designers already put the neccessary caps for
the
amp in them. Caps have a place but where they fail to perform is over long
sustained power draws. I have found that for most systems a cap will not
perform the way people expect them too. I would go with a second battery
before I got one.

Not me. Sure, the sustained power thing is worth noting, but the cap will
do a great deal to reduce the v drops due to transients in the current draw,
which often leads to "sustained" drops as the alt tries to "catch up", so to
speak. A cap can be very effective for this purpose, especially to reduce
headlight or interior light dimming. But your initial advice is good: he
should wait until installing the system to make any electrical system
upgrades.

actually i have a 0awg kit i just bought and will install next week. so
i'm covered as far as wiring. Stinger has a great kit for 85 dollars on
sounddomain and it is supposed to be pretty flexible. im still waiting
for the amp to be delivered. the amp is capable of 4000 watts RMS. Other
users of this amp have had it verified output of upwards of 6000 watts
peak in a 1 ohm load (14.4volts). (if i can remember where i saw the
documentation i will supply it.)

That's tough to swallow. It will depend entirely on the conditions. I
sincerely doubt under normal operating conditions that it will deliver 6kW
into a 1 ohm load. Doesn't matter though. It should be more than enough to
satisfy your needs.

I havent bought the alternator yet but
i can get a deal on a 17 volt model. I think it might be too much and i
would have to use a voltage regulator for the rest of the vehicle's
electronics. like i said i am just making plans. like any good system
you should have a plan before installing. but we'll see. i will most
likely buy a BatCap Model 400 - says it can deliver 400 amps for 8
seconds - (it is slow drain capacitor but read their website -
www.batcap.net)

Um..."slow drain" isn't really important. In other words, it doesn't matter
how slow it drains. It only matters how much total current it drains in a
given interval. In fact, "slow drain" is detrimental. Don't buy into the
hype.

PS - know how to make a capacitor into a "slow drain" cap? Add an inductor
in series with it! Actually, we generally try to avoid series inductance.

actually i have a 0awg kit i just bought and will install next week. so
i'm covered as far as wiring. Stinger has a great kit for 85 dollars on
sounddomain and it is supposed to be pretty flexible.

IF you actually draw as much current as the amp says it will you would need
000 wire (3 ought). Just be sure you fuse the wire within it's capabilitites
and you will be fine.

im still waiting
for the amp to be delivered. the amp is capable of 4000 watts RMS. Other
users of this amp have had it verified output of upwards of 6000 watts
peak in a 1 ohm load (14.4volts). (if i can remember where i saw the
documentation i will supply it.) I havent bought the alternator yet but
i can get a deal on a 17 volt model. I think it might be too much and i
would have to use a voltage regulator for the rest of the vehicle's
electronics. like i said i am just making plans. like any good system
you should have a plan before installing. but we'll see. i will most
likely buy a BatCap Model 400 - says it can deliver 400 amps for 8
seconds - (it is slow drain capacitor but read their website -
www.batcap.net) and use it in conjuntion with a deep cycle battery. i
dont want to fry my alt.

Buy the lifetime warranty with it! I have always paid the like 20 or 30
extra dollar dollars for it and it has been worth it, just keep the receipt.

Les

Mark,

The Adire's are good. IMO: The MA Audio, is not.

What's wrong with it?

I think they're way over rated on terms of power.. but like i said, thats
just my opinion.

The a/d/s/ is good. IMO, the infinities are not.

Well, thats your opinion, mark. i really like A/D/S and i like the way the
infinities sound.

What did they prove?

its frustrating, i cant find the sites, i didnt bookmark them but as i
remember it, they did experiments and it was proving that what capicitors
did and normal run of the mill installs was so small it was almost
unnoticable.

He'll learn it best by doing it himself. Even if he screws up, he'll do
no
worse than a "professional" installer, and in the process he'll learn a
lot.

Hey, i'm not saying he wont, but this is the same EFFENDI telling us he had
like 9 vehicles.. etc.. maybe he does, but not many of his posts proved he
knows alot, and i'm just trying to "help" him by telling him he should know
something first.

I own a shop and i like to think i put out quality work and not rip people
off... i dont charge for things that arent needed/arent there at all.. i'm
as honest to my customers as possible and if i mess up there vehicle (hasnt
happend) i would be quick to pay what ever it takes to get it back to the
way it was.

EFFENDI,

extra junk? cheesy? 'scuse me if you are too busy talking to
truckers on the CB...

i take long trips, i like to be able to know whats going on, thats why i
have radios in my trucks.

when you are running a 17 volt charging system

if you're running 17 volts, you have a problem, that should only be around
14 volts.

300 amps according to the manufacturer

i doubt it, highly

honestly dont think a stock alternator is enough.

Mine works fine, in 2 vehicles actually.. one with the PPI amps (95'
suburban) and another with A/D/S amps (girlfriends 78' blazer) i have a 150
amp alternator according to chevy.

i do plan on entering competition with this vehicle
and i did not mention any of the other equipment that i have.

Theres the difference, my system is for my own enjoyment.. i'm not trying to
impress anyone or compete.. so you dont have to take me seriously in the
least.

i dont
think 6000 watts is an unrealistic estimate considering that all the
other full-range speakers (8) are at least 200 watts RMS each. that is
another 1600 watts.

No offense, effendi, but 8 full range speakers? why so many? i mean i'm
running 2 components up front and 2 raw drivers in the rear and my system is
plenty loud to **** off plenty of people.. quite honestly, i think with
good quality gear, you shouldnt need tons of it.

thats just my opinion.

im sorry if you feel "threatened", whatever homie...

I dont really feel "threatened", are you trying to "threaten" me?

you probably spent twice as much as i did and i
probably have just as good sounding system as you.

I find this hilarious, considering you "havent installed anything yet" so
how would you know your system even works?

PLUS, i'd rather pay more for nice quality gear that last a nice long time
and has a reputible history than hit my local walmart and buy 8 6x9s and
call it a system.

you got some kind of
issue you need to work out in therapy or something.

I may be insane for even bothing with this thread.

you are a big man to threaten people - on the
internet?

I threatened you? really? wow.

oh yeah and thanks for all
your "help".

Hey man, whatever... i wont bother with you then.... i'm just being clear
that you're a little ignorant and you need to learn some things before you
jump in and install.. if you're competing, you want it done right.. if this
is one of you're daily drivers, you want it dont right, regardless..... all
it takes is a by-passed fuse on your wire that is carrying "300 amps" and it
will overheat and burn the truck straight to the ground.


DJ TecThreat
The Real Theat

PLUS, i'd rather pay more for nice quality gear that last a nice long time
and has a reputible history than hit my local walmart and buy 8 6x9s and
call it a system.

Not that it matters in the least where gear is purchased, but the guy who runs
Infinities, which can be found in MANY lousy chain stores really shouldn't be
knocking on the guy running Adire Audio on where he purchased ANYTHING. Just
my opinion of course.

Nick

The Adire's are good. IMO: The MA Audio, is not.

What's wrong with it?

I think they're way over rated on terms of power.. but like i said, thats
just my opinion.

That's almost certainly true. But that doesn't make the amp bad. It just
makes the marketing department disingenuous.


The a/d/s/ is good. IMO, the infinities are not.

Well, thats your opinion, mark. i really like A/D/S and i like the way
the
infinities sound.

Sorry. Just f-ing with ya.


What did they prove?

its frustrating, i cant find the sites, i didnt bookmark them but as i
remember it, they did experiments and it was proving that what capicitors
did and normal run of the mill installs was so small it was almost
unnoticable.

It's not uncommon for them to provide dramatic effects for eliminating
headlight dimming.

Not that it matters in the least where gear is purchased, but the guy who
runs
Infinities, which can be found in MANY lousy chain stores really shouldn't
be
knocking on the guy running Adire Audio on where he purchased ANYTHING.
Just
my opinion of course.

Nick

I like the way my infinities sound, they're reputation isnt too soiled and
there speakers arent bad.... i think they have a clean sound. (my opinion,
ofcourse)

And if you read my original post i said "The Adire's are good." i had a
Brahma 15" in my towing expedition last year, until i sold it.


DJ TecThreat
The Real Threat

And if you read my original post i said "The Adire's are good." i had a
Brahma 15" in my towing expedition last year, until i sold it.



Knowing that you ARE familiar with the Brahma, it really makes me wonder then
where the Walmart speakers bit comes into play.

honestly dont think a stock alternator is enough. i checked it today and
it is only 120amps (delphi) and i figure half of that is just to run the
stock electronics. i do plan on entering competition with this vehicle
and i did not mention any of the other equipment that i have. i dont
think 6000 watts is an unrealistic estimate considering that all the
other full-range speakers (8) are at least 200 watts RMS each. that is
another 1600 watts.


Dude not to be a jerk but have you got any idea how much power you are
talking about?

8 full range speakers at 200 watts? what is that all about? if you want to
win an spl competition take out all your seats and build a wall of ten 15's.
then push 2000 watts to it and you're in.

if you actually had a system that had 6000 watts of power it would break
your ear drum apart before you could actually hear it.

just because a speaker is 200 watts rms doesn't mean you are to provide 16
amps of power to it at all times. it means it can sustain that much power
but you will never listen to it that loud no matter how hungry you are.

look at some spl winning cars if that's what you're after. I have heard
plenty of vehicles with thousands of watts and they are mostly good for show
and tell and you can't really sit there and listen to 2000 watts for a
period of time.

I will post some more info once I get everything installed. I guess I am
going to stick with the stock alternator until Stinger gets back to me.
I think I will learn more by installing and then troubleshooting. My
truck is going to be a show truck so I want to have enough to keep the
people satisfied and interested. Why NOT 8 full range speakers?

P.S. TecThreat I dont own 9 vehicles, just 4. (for now) Why did you sell
your Brahma?? MA Audio is overrated? What manufacturer doesnt overrate
their amps????!


EFFENDI

Mark Zarella wrote:

actually i have a 0awg kit i just bought and will install next week. so
i'm covered as far as wiring. Stinger has a great kit for 85 dollars on
sounddomain and it is supposed to be pretty flexible. im still waiting
for the amp to be delivered. the amp is capable of 4000 watts RMS. Other
users of this amp have had it verified output of upwards of 6000 watts
peak in a 1 ohm load (14.4volts). (if i can remember where i saw the
documentation i will supply it.)


That's tough to swallow. It will depend entirely on the conditions. I
sincerely doubt under normal operating conditions that it will deliver 6kW
into a 1 ohm load. Doesn't matter though. It should be more than enough to
satisfy your needs.

I think it will be....


I havent bought the alternator yet but
i can get a deal on a 17 volt model. I think it might be too much and i
would have to use a voltage regulator for the rest of the vehicle's
electronics. like i said i am just making plans. like any good system
you should have a plan before installing. but we'll see. i will most
likely buy a BatCap Model 400 - says it can deliver 400 amps for 8
seconds - (it is slow drain capacitor but read their website -
www.batcap.net)


Um..."slow drain" isn't really important. In other words, it doesn't matter
how slow it drains. It only matters how much total current it drains in a
given interval. In fact, "slow drain" is detrimental. Don't buy into the
hype.

PS - know how to make a capacitor into a "slow drain" cap? Add an inductor
in series with it! Actually, we generally try to avoid series inductance.


I think I worded that incorrectly.I guess its not slow drain, it just
delivers higher sustained current over a longer period than a regular
capacitor. But check out their website anyways. I dont think it is hype.
It looks like it would work in my situation, if I dont have to go and
buy a new alternator. It can't hurt my system and its a lot less money
than a cap.

EFFENDI

Z Gluhak wrote:

honestly dont think a stock alternator is enough. i checked it today and
it is only 120amps (delphi) and i figure half of that is just to run the
stock electronics. i do plan on entering competition with this vehicle
and i did not mention any of the other equipment that i have. i dont
think 6000 watts is an unrealistic estimate considering that all the
other full-range speakers (8) are at least 200 watts RMS each. that is
another 1600 watts.



Dude not to be a jerk but have you got any idea how much power you are
talking about?

8 full range speakers at 200 watts? what is that all about? if you want to
win an spl competition take out all your seats and build a wall of ten 15's.
then push 2000 watts to it and you're in.

if you actually had a system that had 6000 watts of power it would break
your ear drum apart before you could actually hear it.

just because a speaker is 200 watts rms doesn't mean you are to provide 16
amps of power to it at all times. it means it can sustain that much power
but you will never listen to it that loud no matter how hungry you are.

look at some spl winning cars if that's what you're after. I have heard
plenty of vehicles with thousands of watts and they are mostly good for show
and tell and you can't really sit there and listen to 2000 watts for a
period of time.




It is a show vehicle. I'm looking for sponsorship right now. Why would I
take my seats out? I am not going to compete in the extreme levels. I
want it to knock but not so I am going to blow brains out my earholes.
My estimate is probably high but I dont think it is unrealistic.

I do play music obscenely loud. Obscene music, and very loudly I might add.

How can you measure SPL in watts?? is that a new rating system i dont
know about? You need to teach me how to measure it. Is there a new
microphone they are using in DB Drag now?? ......Wow the industry is
expanding so quickly these days...my god..


EFFENDI

It is a show vehicle. I'm looking for sponsorship right now. Why would I
take my seats out? I am not going to compete in the extreme levels.

First you say you wanna keep your kids busy, then it's a sponsor car. Now
you're not gonna compete in extreme levels. Make up you'r mind.


I
want it to knock but not so I am going to blow brains out my earholes.
My estimate is probably high but I dont think it is unrealistic.

My system knocks and I don't have 6000 watts. More like 1000W and I probably
use 500W when I listen really loud.
You will blow your brains out if you actually manage to deliver as much
power to each speaker as you say you're gonna.


I do play music obscenely loud. Obscene music, and very loudly I might
add.

How can you measure SPL in watts?? is that a new rating system i dont
know about? You need to teach me how to measure it. Is there a new
microphone they are using in DB Drag now?? ......Wow the industry is
expanding so quickly these days...my god..

No you don't measure spl in watts but dbs. I never said that. Point is you
don't need 6000 watts and all this power crap that you're talking about.

"TheBIessedDead" wrote in message
...
And if you read my original post i said "The Adire's are good." i had a
Brahma 15" in my towing expedition last year, until i sold it.



Knowing that you ARE familiar with the Brahma, it really makes me wonder
then
where the Walmart speakers bit comes into play.

Basically i got that from "8 fullrange speakers". Thats a little dumb IMO

DJ TecThreat

P.S. TecThreat I dont own 9 vehicles, just 4. (for now)
That was an exageratory number from what you said in a post a few months ago
about you owning many vehicles. I think it was related to you buying stolen
IPODs, or something like that.

Why did you sell
your Brahma??
Well, i sold the truck it was in and included the system, the offroad gear,
my trailer and all my gear to pull it and maintain it. but if i had just
sold the sub, i would have to say it would be to put more money towards the
system in my suburban now. (image dynamics subs)

I really did like the brahma, i would've put 2-4 in the truck if i had the
room.. but it was a transport vehicle so i really always had stuff in it and
i could really only fit one sub.

MA Audio is overrated? What manufacturer doesnt overrate
their amps????!

Well, you're right here, most manufactuer's do overrate there amps, in some
degree.. some do it more than others.

I've played with a few MA Audio amps (not to mention other gear of theres) i
also installed alot of it. There stuff is O.K. but IMO, its just O.K.

DJ TecThreat
The Real Threat

I think I worded that incorrectly.I guess its not slow drain, it just
delivers higher sustained current over a longer period than a regular
capacitor.

There's only one way to deliver more current over a longer period of time.
That's by increasing capacitance.

But check out their website anyways. I dont think it is hype.

I've checked it out before. It is all hype. That doesn't mean you
shouldn't add one. It means you should install first so you can adequately
evaluate your electrical system needs. It's literally impossible to predict
what you'll need before you actually install the equipment.

How can you measure SPL in watts?? is that a new rating system i dont
know about? You need to teach me how to measure it.

Actually it can be. But not as the other poster did.

your Brahma?? MA Audio is overrated? What manufacturer doesnt overrate
their amps????!


EFFENDI

MTX is one for sure. I'v had 5 different amps from them and they run
actual test on them at 12.5 volts (you run 14.4 I think when
alternator is running) and all amps I've owned from there were at
least 20% more powerful then the specs on the box.

Maybe you should buy a 10,000 Watt amp just incase your 0 gauge wire
doesn't get warm enough when you're pushing your 6000 watts through
it.

-Z

Z Gluhak wrote:
It is a show vehicle. I'm looking for sponsorship right now. Why would I
take my seats out? I am not going to compete in the extreme levels.


First you say you wanna keep your kids busy, then it's a sponsor car. Now
you're not gonna compete in extreme levels. Make up you'r mind.



Sponsored show vehicle not competing in extreme class..doesnt mean i am
not competing..i'd need at least 9-10 brahmas for that and build a
wall..i still want to drive it when i need to....

'kids' ie. those who go to the shows.

I

want it to knock but not so I am going to blow brains out my earholes.
My estimate is probably high but I dont think it is unrealistic.


My system knocks and I don't have 6000 watts. More like 1000W and I probably
use 500W when I listen really loud.
You will blow your brains out if you actually manage to deliver as much
power to each speaker as you say you're gonna.

So be it then. I already have a hearing problem...


I do play music obscenely loud. Obscene music, and very loudly I might

add.

How can you measure SPL in watts?? is that a new rating system i dont
know about? You need to teach me how to measure it. Is there a new
microphone they are using in DB Drag now?? ......Wow the industry is
expanding so quickly these days...my god..


No you don't measure spl in watts but dbs. I never said that. Point is you
don't need 6000 watts and all this power crap that you're talking about.

No i dont NEED it, but i want it. There is a big difference. No its not
practical, cost-effective, or the brightest idea. It is time-consuming,
laborious and maybe even stupid. But that is what car audio enthusiasts
live for.

EFFENDI

Sponsored show vehicle not competing in extreme class..doesnt mean i am
not competing..i'd need at least 9-10 brahmas for that and build a
wall..i still want to drive it when i need to....

Understood. I just don't get why you think you need 6000 watts for lcds and
2 subs. If you were using 9-10 subs and going competition then I'd
understand.

'kids' ie. those who go to the shows.

Aaah..some of us old farts think kids like toddlers or school age...



I

want it to knock but not so I am going to blow brains out my earholes.
My estimate is probably high but I dont think it is unrealistic.


My system knocks and I don't have 6000 watts. More like 1000W and I
probably
use 500W when I listen really loud.
You will blow your brains out if you actually manage to deliver as much
power to each speaker as you say you're gonna.

So be it then. I already have a hearing problem...

Hey it's all good.



No i dont NEED it, but i want it. There is a big difference. No its not
practical, cost-effective, or the brightest idea. It is time-consuming,
laborious and maybe even stupid. But that is what car audio enthusiasts
live for.

I understand. I just don't understand what you're after. I want sound
quality. Some want earth shaking bass. But I don't get two 15s and 8 full
range speakers and 6000 watts.

Regardless you should do what others have said. Install your system and then
if your having problems get the problems fixed. Or if you have money to burn
buy an alternator, a battery and a bank of caps because you dont need it but
want it.

-Z

"Z Gluhak" wrote in message
...
Sponsored show vehicle not competing in extreme class..doesnt mean i am
not competing..i'd need at least 9-10 brahmas for that and build a
wall..i still want to drive it when i need to....

Understood. I just don't get why you think you need 6000 watts for lcds
and
2 subs. If you were using 9-10 subs and going competition then I'd
understand.

'kids' ie. those who go to the shows.

Aaah..some of us old farts think kids like toddlers or school age...


Gluhak, he dont know what he wants.

"i got kids to keep entertained." i got the same thing you got. This to me
says that he has small children that he needs to keep entertained on trips.


DJ TecThreat
The Real Threat

TibZ wrote:
Wow this thread has gone way off topic...

snip

Speaking of off-topic...LOOK! Another dumbass who doesn't quote.

--
thelizman "I didn't steal the FAQ either"

teamROCS Car Audio Forums http://www.teamrocs.com/caraudio/
teamROCS Car Audio News http://www.teamrocs.com/news/
"It's about the music, stupid"

This post is Copyright (C) 2004. Reproduction of its content anywhere
other than usenet without the express written permission of the author
is forbidden.

Wow this thread has gone way off topic...Just to jump in, MA Audio is a
good brand, and actually their XL sub has been reviewed in CA&E and has
got great reveiws recently...

I can't remember if you said you are running one or two brahmas, but
none the less the HK4000D will not disappoint...
--
TibZ
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