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#1
Posted to rec.audio.car
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INSTALLED ACCUVOLT 1500 ON SUB AMP. IT ROCKS!!!!!!!
I hooked the Accuvolt 1500 (user adjustable output of 14-16 volts up to 100
amperers) JUST to my sub amp, an Old School Soundstream Reference 700. I set the output voltage on the Accuvolt to 14.6 volts and disconected the 1.5 farad capacitor (with the digital display top) that had been connected to that amp. Let me first start by saying the increase in bass is VERY noticable to all (including wife, sister-in-law, and NEIGHBORS!). I drive a 1999 Subaru Forester and it's alternator puts out only 80 amperers. No one (and I have looked) makes an aftermarket HO alternator for this car. I SHOULD be using a Class D amp to drive my subs but a got a hell of a deal on this Accuvolt (and hell, it will work with a Class D amp in the future anyway). Currently the Accuvolt is ONLY connected to my SS amp, though I may connect my midbass amp to it as well (a vintage FOSGATE Punch 225.2). Anyway, the increase in voltage is as claimed. Before, when I would REALLY crank the bass, the voltage at the sub amp would drop down to 12.5-11.5 (WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING). Now, my SS amp ALWAYS sees 14.6 volts. Not only is the bass seemingly twice as loud, but it is MUCH punchier as well. When a kick-drum kicks, you feel like you were kicked in the stomache!!!!! AMAZING!!!!! I drive two subs, a pair of MTX 7500's in a ported box. You can see my system at: http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2359697 Forgive me as I have not yet updated the addition of the Accuvolt and the subtraction of the 1.5 cap. THIS THING IS TRULY AMAZING!!!! MOSFET |
#2
Posted to rec.audio.car
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INSTALLED ACCUVOLT 1500 ON SUB AMP. IT ROCKS!!!!!!!
In article , "MOSFET" wrote:
I hooked the Accuvolt 1500 (user adjustable output of 14-16 volts up to 100 amperers) JUST to my sub amp, an Old School Soundstream Reference 700. I set the output voltage on the Accuvolt to 14.6 volts and disconected the 1.5 farad capacitor (with the digital display top) that had been connected to that amp. Let me first start by saying the increase in bass is VERY noticable to all (including wife, sister-in-law, and NEIGHBORS!). I drive a 1999 Subaru Forester and it's alternator puts out only 80 amperers. No one (and I have looked) makes an aftermarket HO alternator for this car. I SHOULD be using a Class D amp to drive my subs but a got a hell of a deal on this Accuvolt (and hell, it will work with a Class D amp in the future anyway). Currently the Accuvolt is ONLY connected to my SS amp, though I may connect my midbass amp to it as well (a vintage FOSGATE Punch 225.2). Anyway, the increase in voltage is as claimed. Before, when I would REALLY crank the bass, the voltage at the sub amp would drop down to 12.5-11.5 (WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING). Now, my SS amp ALWAYS sees 14.6 volts. Not only is the bass seemingly twice as loud, but it is MUCH punchier as well. When a kick-drum kicks, you feel like you were kicked in the stomache!!!!! AMAZING!!!!! I drive two subs, a pair of MTX 7500's in a ported box. You can see my system at: http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2359697 Forgive me as I have not yet updated the addition of the Accuvolt and the subtraction of the 1.5 cap. THIS THING IS TRULY AMAZING!!!! Very nice that your happy. Twice as loud usually means 10 times the power. I don't know the levels required to feel twice as strong. I keep trying to convince people to stop talking about power. Voltage or level is what we really need to know. Power only equates to money or cost, but voltage refers to volume level. I guess I was the one who started out talking about power in this paragraph! Its very interesting to know at least some amplifiers are very sensitive to voltage input. greg |
#3
Posted to rec.audio.car
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INSTALLED ACCUVOLT 1500 ON SUB AMP. IT ROCKS!!!!!!!
GregS wrote:
In article , "MOSFET" wrote: I hooked the Accuvolt 1500 (user adjustable output of 14-16 volts up to 100 amperers) JUST to my sub amp, an Old School Soundstream Reference 700. I set the output voltage on the Accuvolt to 14.6 volts and disconected the 1.5 farad capacitor (with the digital display top) that had been connected to that amp. Let me first start by saying the increase in bass is VERY noticable to all (including wife, sister-in-law, and NEIGHBORS!). I drive a 1999 Subaru Forester and it's alternator puts out only 80 amperers. No one (and I have looked) makes an aftermarket HO alternator for this car. I SHOULD be using a Class D amp to drive my subs but a got a hell of a deal on this Accuvolt (and hell, it will work with a Class D amp in the future anyway). Currently the Accuvolt is ONLY connected to my SS amp, though I may connect my midbass amp to it as well (a vintage FOSGATE Punch 225.2). Anyway, the increase in voltage is as claimed. Before, when I would REALLY crank the bass, the voltage at the sub amp would drop down to 12.5-11.5 (WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING). Now, my SS amp ALWAYS sees 14.6 volts. Not only is the bass seemingly twice as loud, but it is MUCH punchier as well. When a kick-drum kicks, you feel like you were kicked in the stomache!!!!! AMAZING!!!!! I drive two subs, a pair of MTX 7500's in a ported box. You can see my system at: http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2359697 Forgive me as I have not yet updated the addition of the Accuvolt and the subtraction of the 1.5 cap. THIS THING IS TRULY AMAZING!!!! Very nice that your happy. Twice as loud usually means 10 times the power. I don't know the levels required to feel twice as strong. I keep trying to convince people to stop talking about power. Voltage or level is what we really need to know. Power only equates to money or cost, but voltage refers to volume level. I guess I was the one who started out talking about power in this paragraph! Its very interesting to know at least some amplifiers are very sensitive to voltage input. MOST amps are very sensitive to voltage input. Manufacturers count on it to fudge their power specs: you can boost your test bench supply up to 15V and get a much higher power reading than your customer is going to get when they're barely giving it 12.5-13V with their car idling and/or with everything else running, and there's nothing "requiring" them to list what voltage input they actually got their power specs at. You won't see as big an advantage with a regulated amp, since it's designed to provide the same output across a wide range of supply voltages by its power supply already doing something similar to the Accuvolt. |
#4
Posted to rec.audio.car
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INSTALLED ACCUVOLT 1500 ON SUB AMP. IT ROCKS!!!!!!!
On Feb 16, 9:06 am, (GregS) wrote:
In article , "MOSFET" wrote: I hooked the Accuvolt 1500 (user adjustable output of 14-16 volts up to 100 amperers) JUST to my sub amp, an Old School Soundstream Reference 700. I set the output voltage on the Accuvolt to 14.6 volts and disconected the 1.5 farad capacitor (with the digital display top) that had been connected to that amp. Let me first start by saying the increase in bass is VERY noticable to all (including wife, sister-in-law, and NEIGHBORS!). I drive a 1999 Subaru Forester and it's alternator puts out only 80 amperers. No one (and I have looked) makes an aftermarket HO alternator for this car. I SHOULD be using a Class D amp to drive my subs but a got a hell of a deal on this Accuvolt (and hell, it will work with a Class D amp in the future anyway). Currently the Accuvolt is ONLY connected to my SS amp, though I may connect my midbass amp to it as well (a vintage FOSGATE Punch 225.2). Anyway, the increase in voltage is as claimed. Before, when I would REALLY crank the bass, the voltage at the sub amp would drop down to 12.5-11.5 (WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING). Now, my SS amp ALWAYS sees 14.6 volts. Not only is the bass seemingly twice as loud, but it is MUCH punchier as well. When a kick-drum kicks, you feel like you were kicked in the stomache!!!!! AMAZING!!!!! I drive two subs, a pair of MTX 7500's in a ported box. You can see my system at: http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2359697 Forgive me as I have not yet updated the addition of the Accuvolt and the subtraction of the 1.5 cap. THIS THING IS TRULY AMAZING!!!! Very nice that your happy. Twice as loud usually means 10 times the power. I don't know the levels required to feel twice as strong. I keep trying to convince people to stop talking about power. Voltage or level is what we really need to know. Power only equates to money or cost, but voltage refers to volume level. I guess I was the one who started out talking about power in this paragraph! Its very interesting to know at least some amplifiers are very sensitive to voltage input. greg Umm... i think you got it mixed up. Power dissipated by the speaker is the only measure for sound output taking into consideration the efficiency of the speaker. Not the voltage across the speaker and not the amperage across the speaker. You can have a 100 Volts across a speaker but if it doesn't have amperage through it, you won't get a sound. Again, you can have 20 amps going through the speaker, but if your speaker doesn't have voltage across it you won't get any sound. Power = Voltage * Amperage. A higher voltage battery may help the volume level because usually because a 14.4 volt battery is able to output more amps than a typical 12 V battery and also accompany that with higher voltage. A 14.4 V battery with a 1-3 farad capacitor would boost the voltage of the capacitor and therefore it will be easier for the capacitor to dissipate the amount of power needed for a bass hit. Typically, you want a Thevenin resistance equal to the impedance of the speaker. Thevenin resistance is the resistance of the amp and whatever other resistances there are (battery resistance, wire resistance). With the thevenin resistance equal to the resistance of the speaker, you get the maximum allowed power dissipated to the speaker. Even though 50% of the power is dissipated from the thevenin resistance, the other 50% of the power is dissipated is dissipated by the speaker. If the speaker impedance is more than the thevenin resistance, then the power dissipated will be more efficient but you not get as much power as before. |
#5
Posted to rec.audio.car
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INSTALLED ACCUVOLT 1500 ON SUB AMP. IT ROCKS!!!!!!!
.. A 14.4 V battery with a 1-3 farad capacitor
would boost the voltage of the capacitor ????????? A 14.4 v battery? As my voltage is ALWAYS a little below this point, how would my existing alternator overcome the internal resistance of the battery to charge it? Furthermore, my car is DESIGNED to work with a 12 volt battery. Do you mean I should get an ALTERNATOR that will put out 14.4 volts at 100 amperers? If so, I know. and therefore it will be easier for the capacitor to dissipate the amount of power needed for a bass hit. Huh? Almost ALL capacitors can disapate ALL of their amperage nearly instantly (unlike a battery), trust me, I know from PERSONAL experience (and it wasn't pretty)! A capacitor does not need any "help" when it comes to disapating current. I think you have a few things confused. Typically, you want a Thevenin resistance equal to the impedance of the speaker. Thevenin resistance is the resistance of the amp and whatever other resistances there are (battery resistance, wire resistance). With the thevenin resistance equal to the resistance of the speaker, you get the maximum allowed power dissipated to the speaker. Do you know what we are even talking about? I would suggest reading through this group's FAQ at: http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/ This explains the relationship between voltage, current, watts and how these things effect your system. MOSFET |
#6
Posted to rec.audio.car
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INSTALLED ACCUVOLT 1500 ON SUB AMP. IT ROCKS!!!!!!!
In article .com, "Mariachi" wrote:
On Feb 16, 9:06 am, (GregS) wrote: In article , "MOSFET" wrote: I hooked the Accuvolt 1500 (user adjustable output of 14-16 volts up to 100 amperers) JUST to my sub amp, an Old School Soundstream Reference 700. I set the output voltage on the Accuvolt to 14.6 volts and disconected the 1.5 farad capacitor (with the digital display top) that had been connected to that amp. Let me first start by saying the increase in bass is VERY noticable to all (including wife, sister-in-law, and NEIGHBORS!). I drive a 1999 Subaru Forester and it's alternator puts out only 80 amperers. No one (and I have looked) makes an aftermarket HO alternator for this car. I SHOULD be using a Class D amp to drive my subs but a got a hell of a deal on this Accuvolt (and hell, it will work with a Class D amp in the future anyway). Currently the Accuvolt is ONLY connected to my SS amp, though I may connect my midbass amp to it as well (a vintage FOSGATE Punch 225.2). Anyway, the increase in voltage is as claimed. Before, when I would REALLY crank the bass, the voltage at the sub amp would drop down to 12.5-11.5 (WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING). Now, my SS amp ALWAYS sees 14.6 volts. Not only is the bass seemingly twice as loud, but it is MUCH punchier as well. When a kick-drum kicks, you feel like you were kicked in the stomache!!!!! AMAZING!!!!! I drive two subs, a pair of MTX 7500's in a ported box. You can see my system at: http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2359697 Forgive me as I have not yet updated the addition of the Accuvolt and the subtraction of the 1.5 cap. THIS THING IS TRULY AMAZING!!!! Very nice that your happy. Twice as loud usually means 10 times the power. I don't know the levels required to feel twice as strong. I keep trying to convince people to stop talking about power. Voltage or level is what we really need to know. Power only equates to money or cost, but voltage refers to volume level. I guess I was the one who started out talking about power in this paragraph! Its very interesting to know at least some amplifiers are very sensitive to voltage input. greg Umm... i think you got it mixed up. Power dissipated by the speaker is the only measure for sound output taking into consideration the efficiency of the speaker. Not the voltage across the speaker and not I think your missing my point. People talk about power all the time, and it thoroughly confuses them. When you want to double SPL, your suppose to double voltage. You don't double power(except in example below), yet many think that way. When you want to increase sound pressure, you need to increase the driving voltage. Of course the current also increases, but thats only a secondary action, because voltage is increasing. It would be close if everybody said you need twice the drive ( voltage) to get twice the volume. Thats the way ears should respond. They are getting twice the signal. We know the hearing is nonlinear, and also varies with absolute volume. The one interesting about power, SPL, and efficiency, if you take identical drivers as opposed to one, meaning twice the drive potential, you will get twice the SPL level to the ears. Twice being 6 dB equivalant to a X4 power increase, but using only twice the power. greg the amperage across the speaker. You can have a 100 Volts across a speaker but if it doesn't have amperage through it, you won't get a sound. Again, you can have 20 amps going through the speaker, but if your speaker doesn't have voltage across it you won't get any sound. Power = Voltage * Amperage. A higher voltage battery may help the volume level because usually because a 14.4 volt battery is able to output more amps than a typical 12 V battery and also accompany that with higher voltage. A 14.4 V battery with a 1-3 farad capacitor would boost the voltage of the capacitor and therefore it will be easier for the capacitor to dissipate the amount of power needed for a bass hit. Typically, you want a Thevenin resistance equal to the impedance of the speaker. Thevenin resistance is the resistance of the amp and whatever other resistances there are (battery resistance, wire resistance). With the thevenin resistance equal to the resistance of the speaker, you get the maximum allowed power dissipated to the speaker. Even though 50% of the power is dissipated from the thevenin resistance, the other 50% of the power is dissipated is dissipated by the speaker. If the speaker impedance is more than the thevenin resistance, then the power dissipated will be more efficient but you not get as much power as before. |
#7
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Also....
I noticed that with the addition of the Accuvolt, my amp runs cooler now as
well. Before, if I spent, let's say, 1/2 hour listening to bass heavy music, my SS Ref. 700 would be so hot you could not lay your hand on it for more than an instant. NOW, with the Accuvolt, I noticed yesterday that I could lay my hand on the amp and it was simply very warm (I COULD leave my hand sitting on the amp). This was after a LONG, PUNISHING session with the Bass Mekanik. MOSFET |
#8
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Also....
On Feb 16, 1:21 pm, "MOSFET" wrote:
I noticed that with the addition of the Accuvolt, my amp runs cooler now as well. Before, if I spent, let's say, 1/2 hour listening to bass heavy music, my SS Ref. 700 would be so hot you could not lay your hand on it for more than an instant. NOW, with the Accuvolt, I noticed yesterday that I could lay my hand on the amp and it was simply very warm (I COULD leave my hand sitting on the amp). This was after a LONG, PUNISHING session with the Bass Mekanik. MOSFET I wonder how long your alternator is going to last? As I'm sure you already know, you can't get something for nothing...so you have installed a black-magic box that basically sucks more current from your battery, does some hand-waving and then spits it out as a constant voltage. How's your headlight dimming on bass hits now after you've installed the Accuvolt? -dan |
#9
Posted to rec.audio.car
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INSTALLED ACCUVOLT 1500 ON SUB AMP. IT ROCKS!!!!!!!
I think your missing my point. People talk about power all the time, and it thoroughly confuses them. When you want to double SPL, your suppose to double voltage. You don't double power(except in example below), yet many think that way. When you want to increase sound pressure, you need to increase the driving voltage. Of course the current also increases, but thats only a secondary action, because voltage is increasing. It would be close if everybody said you need twice the drive ( voltage) to get twice the volume. Thats the way ears should respond. They are getting twice the signal. We know the hearing is nonlinear, and also varies with absolute volume. The one interesting about power, SPL, and efficiency, if you take identical drivers as opposed to one, meaning twice the drive potential, you will get twice the SPL level to the ears. Twice being 6 dB equivalant to a X4 power increase, but using only twice the power. If you increase the voltage across the speaker and also the current therefore, how is that not increasing power? Power = (Voltage^2)/R and Power also = Voltage * Current... if you double the voltage across the speaker, you get four times the power dissipated by the speaker. Again, how is voltage not related to power? This is what amplifiers do, they step up the voltage for the sole purpose of getting more power to the speaker. "Twice being 6 dB equivalant to a X4 power increase, but using only twice the power." Wait... you just said a 6 dB increase is a X4 power increase. Then you say it is the same thing as twice the power? You may be thinking of twice the voltage and therefore power increases 4 times. Again, the amplifier is the main component that increases the voltage, not the battery. However, having a higher voltage battery might be better for large current drains over a period of time. But if you have a 12 V battery that is capable of draining 100 amps of current continuously, and a 14.4 V battery that only drains 50 amps continuously, then you are better off with the 12 V battery. It all depends on the quality of the battery. But generally speaking, 14.4 V batteries are made to pump more continuous amps during a long period of time than a standard 12 V battery. If you want to prove your point out to me, you need to give me mathematical equations to support your claim. I see where you are coming from, but I think you are confused on the relationship with voltage and power. Huh? Almost ALL capacitors can disapate ALL of their amperage nearly instantly (unlike a battery), trust me, I know from PERSONAL experience (and it wasn't pretty)! A capacitor does not need any "help" when it comes to disapating current. I think you have a few things confused. Capacitors does not dissipate amperage. I think what you meant to say is dissipate their charge. Capacitors do not store amps, they store charge. When you drain charge from the capacitor you get a continuous flow of charge which is current. Draining the capacitor of charge leaves less electric potential between the capacitor's plates, which is why capacitor's loose voltage when you hit a bass note. If you have zero resistance between the positive and negative terminal of the capacitor, you get a lot of moving electrons (a lot of current). Since V = I * R, if you have zero resistance and 12 Vs. 12 V / 0 Ohms, equals infinity amps. In reality, it is impossible to get infinity amps because the wire always has resistance. The amount of charge that the capacitor can hold is q = Capacitance * Voltage. Therefore, the capacitor holds more charge at 14.4 Volts than at 12 Volts. Do you know what we are even talking about? I would suggest reading through this group's FAQ at: http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/ This explains the relationship between voltage, current, watts and how these things effect your system. I didn't really see anything helpful in there... more like a beginners guide. And yes, the maximum power dissipated by the load is a "general" concept in electronics. Maximum power that the load can dissipate is when the load resistance equals the thevenin resistance. I suggest you research what thevenin resistance means before you get into maximum power. |
#10
Posted to rec.audio.car
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INSTALLED ACCUVOLT 1500 ON SUB AMP. IT ROCKS!!!!!!!
Glad to know its working for ya. But with all that said dont ya find that your
new findings totally go against alot of things that you said over the years about amplifiers? Its nice to see that you are learning about an area of car audio that many people ignore. What a differance a little more voltage can make huh? In article , "MOSFET" wrote: I hooked the Accuvolt 1500 (user adjustable output of 14-16 volts up to 100 amperers) JUST to my sub amp, an Old School Soundstream Reference 700. I set the output voltage on the Accuvolt to 14.6 volts and disconected the 1.5 farad capacitor (with the digital display top) that had been connected to that amp. Let me first start by saying the increase in bass is VERY noticable to all (including wife, sister-in-law, and NEIGHBORS!). I drive a 1999 Subaru Forester and it's alternator puts out only 80 amperers. No one (and I have looked) makes an aftermarket HO alternator for this car. I SHOULD be using a Class D amp to drive my subs but a got a hell of a deal on this Accuvolt (and hell, it will work with a Class D amp in the future anyway). Currently the Accuvolt is ONLY connected to my SS amp, though I may connect my midbass amp to it as well (a vintage FOSGATE Punch 225.2). Anyway, the increase in voltage is as claimed. Before, when I would REALLY crank the bass, the voltage at the sub amp would drop down to 12.5-11.5 (WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING). Now, my SS amp ALWAYS sees 14.6 volts. Not only is the bass seemingly twice as loud, but it is MUCH punchier as well. When a kick-drum kicks, you feel like you were kicked in the stomache!!!!! AMAZING!!!!! I drive two subs, a pair of MTX 7500's in a ported box. You can see my system at: http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2359697 Forgive me as I have not yet updated the addition of the Accuvolt and the subtraction of the 1.5 cap. THIS THING IS TRULY AMAZING!!!! MOSFET |
#11
Posted to rec.audio.car
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INSTALLED ACCUVOLT 1500 ON SUB AMP. IT ROCKS!!!!!!!
How do you get one without the other? Thats like saying that water is not wet. Umm... i think you got it mixed up. Power dissipated by the speaker is the only measure for sound output taking into consideration the efficiency of the speaker. Not the voltage across the speaker and not the amperage across the speaker. You can have a 100 Volts across a speaker but if it doesn't have amperage through it, you won't get a sound. Again, you can have 20 amps going through the speaker, but if your speaker doesn't have voltage across it you won't get any sound. Power = Voltage * Amperage. Or could it be because the 14.4V battery doesnt need to output as much amperage as the 12V battery to do the same amount of work? A higher voltage battery may help the volume level because usually because a 14.4 volt battery is able to output more amps than a typical 12 V battery and also accompany that with higher voltage. A 14.4 V battery with a 1-3 farad capacitor would boost the voltage of the capacitor and therefore it will be easier for the capacitor to dissipate the amount of power needed for a bass hit. Typically, you want a Thevenin resistance equal to the impedance of the speaker. Thevenin resistance is the resistance of the amp and whatever other resistances there are (battery resistance, wire resistance). With the thevenin resistance equal to the resistance of the speaker, you get the maximum allowed power dissipated to the speaker. Even though 50% of the power is dissipated from the thevenin resistance, the other 50% of the power is dissipated is dissipated by the speaker. If the speaker impedance is more than the thevenin resistance, then the power dissipated will be more efficient but you not get as much power as before. |
#12
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Also....
As I'm sure you already know, you can't get something for nothing...
It's funny you mentioned this because I just had a similar conversation today with a 16 year old just getting into car audio. The way I explained it to him was that the ONLY thing that can make power in a car is the alternator, that's it. You CANNOT create power out of thin air or any type of black box. The ONLY, and I MEAN ONLY, reason these magical devices like the capacitor and Accuvolt SEEM to give you more power is due to the transient nature of music (unlike headlights) AND the fact that we don't always listen at the same volume levels. I told him that these devices "manipulate" my car's power supply to maximize the current for the stereo when it needs it the most. And yes, my alternator does not have long to live I expect with this new toy. Frankly, I'm surprised it has lasted this long. In ALL my previous cars I usually fry my alternator (and then replace with a HO model) within a year. But this stock 80 ampere sucker is like the God damn Energizer Bunny. But I have a line on a guy here in my town who's an EE, mechanic and a "kind-of" friend. He said he might be able to rebuild my existing alternator with more copper windings to achieve the desired results. I told him it would really only be cost effective, IMHO, if he could AT LEAST increase max amperage to 120 OR MORE. BTW, what would a job like this typically cost? We were "dancing" around a price (we still haven't agreed on one, but we were in the neighborhood of $75, he is a friend, though not a close friend) and I have NO IDEA how much labor would be involved (assuming I take it out of the car and re-install it myself). Any info on this subject would be GREATLY appreciated. MOSFET |
#13
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Also....
On Feb 17, 12:15 am, "MOSFET" wrote:
As I'm sure you already know, you can't get something for nothing... It's funny you mentioned this because I just had a similar conversation today with a 16 year old just getting into car audio. The way I explained it to him was that the ONLY thing that can make power in a car is the alternator, that's it. You CANNOT create power out of thin air or any type of black box. The ONLY, and I MEAN ONLY, reason these magical devices like the capacitor and Accuvolt SEEM to give you more power is due to the transient nature of music (unlike headlights) AND the fact that we don't always listen at the same volume levels. I told him that these devices "manipulate" my car's power supply to maximize the current for the stereo when it needs it the most. And yes, my alternator does not have long to live I expect with this new toy. Frankly, I'm surprised it has lasted this long. In ALL my previous cars I usually fry my alternator (and then replace with a HO model) within a year. But this stock 80 ampere sucker is like the God damn Energizer Bunny. But I have a line on a guy here in my town who's an EE, mechanic and a "kind-of" friend. He said he might be able to rebuild my existing alternator with more copper windings to achieve the desired results. I told him it would really only be cost effective, IMHO, if he could AT LEAST increase max amperage to 120 OR MORE. BTW, what would a job like this typically cost? We were "dancing" around a price (we still haven't agreed on one, but we were in the neighborhood of $75, he is a friend, though not a close friend) and I have NO IDEA how much labor would be involved (assuming I take it out of the car and re-install it myself). Any info on this subject would be GREATLY appreciated. MOSFET Don't forget that the battery carries potential chemical energy. The more current you draw from your battery, the less potential chemical energy you have from your battery. This is what the alternator is for. The alternator reverses the drainage process and actually increases the potential chemical energy of the battery to a certain limit. Alternators create energy by a moving magnetic field. The moving magnetic field induces a changing electric field which causes an electron flow (current). Technically, you cannot create energy (unless you have the antimatter and the matter colliding effect), but you can convert one type of energy to another type of energy. In the case of the alternator, you are transforming changing magnetic energy into electrical energy. If you want to really get into specifics you should look up Maxwell's equations. Why is there so many copper wires around the alternator? Because the more copper wires around the alternator, the more "free" electrons there are to induce. However, adding wires around the alternator might help, but in order to produce a significant increase in current, one should take into account the size of the magnet. |
#14
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Also....
Don't forget that the battery carries potential chemical energy. But it does not CREATE energy. That was the point I was making. In fact, because of the internal resistance of 12 volt batteries, when your engine is running, your battery ACTUALLY BECOMES A LOAD WITHIN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. In other words, when the car is running (and your alternator is providing the power), your battery becomes just another electrical accessory that demands power. MOSFET |
#15
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Also....
How's your headlight dimming on bass hits now after you've installed
the Accuvolt? In a word.....bad (well, in truth, only when I crank up the bass). When I pump the bass up the lights dim much more than before (actually, they really didn't dim at all before thanks to my four farads of capacitance), that is, indeed, true. Of course, Dan, I knew this would happen. The Accuvolt is just madly sucking current from my battery. But I like to think of my Accuvolt as Nitrous Oxide for my bass amp (though this is not a perfect analogy as my Accuvolt is always on when my system is on). But like NOS, if I crank my bass TOO OFTEN, I will run into problems and quickly fry my alternator and it's possible I could even deplete the battery WHILE DRIVING (and that's with a perfectly functional 80 ampere alternator)!!!! So, like NOS, it's nice to know it's there, but I am judicious about playing REALLY loud bass. MOSFET |
#16
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Also....
LOL
In article , "MOSFET" wrote: How's your headlight dimming on bass hits now after you've installed the Accuvolt? In a word.....bad (well, in truth, only when I crank up the bass). When I pump the bass up the lights dim much more than before (actually, they really didn't dim at all before thanks to my four farads of capacitance), that is, indeed, true. Of course, Dan, I knew this would happen. The Accuvolt is just madly sucking current from my battery. But I like to think of my Accuvolt as Nitrous Oxide for my bass amp (though this is not a perfect analogy as my Accuvolt is always on when my system is on). But like NOS, if I crank my bass TOO OFTEN, I will run into problems and quickly fry my alternator and it's possible I could even deplete the battery WHILE DRIVING (and that's with a perfectly functional 80 ampere alternator)!!!! So, like NOS, it's nice to know it's there, but I am judicious about playing REALLY loud bass. MOSFET |
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