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#1
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
Hi RATs!
So, my BlumGarts lasted over a year using 560uF 50V bypass caps. Thunderstorms found the weakness. Now using 160uF 150V caps, Panasonic HFS, with one from GND to Kathode, and a second from GND to Grid bias zero, not GND. Seems to work. Bypass bypass is a 1 uF 630V PP. Wild and crazy Sat night. Happy Ears! Al |
#2
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
On Oct 4, 1:49*pm, Fu Knee wrote:
Hi RATs! So, my BlumGarts lasted over a year using 560uF 50V bypass caps. Thunderstorms found the weakness. Mon Dieu, Bum Farts caused by Thunderstorms! Now using 160uF 150V caps, Panasonic HFS, with one from GND to Kathode, and a second from GND to Grid bias zero, not GND. Seems to work. Bypass bypass is a 1 uF 630V PP. Wild and crazy Sat night. I won a couple and lost a couple of chess games on saturday night. Its not nearly as crazy as painting the town red with Jennifer Hawking. Patrick Turner. Happy Ears! Al |
#3
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
Fixed bias works better.
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#4
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More cap tuning
On Oct 3, 10:49*pm, Fu Knee wrote:
Hi RATs! So, my BlumGarts lasted over a year using 560uF 50V bypass caps. 50V caps have no place in tube equipment. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
#5
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
On Mon, 05 Oct 2009 07:17:41 -0500, flipper wrote:
On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 17:44:03 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Oct 3, 10:49*pm, Fu Knee wrote: Hi RATs! So, my BlumGarts lasted over a year using 560uF 50V bypass caps. 50V caps have no place in tube equipment. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA Rk bypass DC heater smoothing. d |
#6
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
On Oct 5, 8:17*am, flipper wrote:
On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 17:44:03 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Oct 3, 10:49*pm, Fu Knee wrote: Hi RATs! So, my BlumGarts lasted over a year using 560uF 50V bypass caps. 50V caps have no place in tube equipment. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA Rk bypass Still and all (and to Don also) - I would not use a cap rated at anything less than 150V in any location in any tube equipment - and that includes battery-powered radios commonly using 20V caps in the power-supply as an example - and the ones that most commonly fail as it happens. The incremental cost is minimal and the advantages significant. In the realm of tube audio - even more so. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
#7
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
On Mon, 5 Oct 2009 05:36:00 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: On Oct 5, 8:17*am, flipper wrote: On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 17:44:03 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Oct 3, 10:49*pm, Fu Knee wrote: Hi RATs! So, my BlumGarts lasted over a year using 560uF 50V bypass caps. 50V caps have no place in tube equipment. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA Rk bypass Still and all (and to Don also) - I would not use a cap rated at anything less than 150V in any location in any tube equipment - and that includes battery-powered radios commonly using 20V caps in the power-supply as an example - and the ones that most commonly fail as it happens. The incremental cost is minimal and the advantages significant. In the realm of tube audio - even more so. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA Why is that? Do you imagine that you gain some extra safety or performance thereby? I promise you don't. d |
#8
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
On Oct 5, 8:38*am, (Don Pearce) wrote:
On Mon, 5 Oct 2009 05:36:00 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Oct 5, 8:17*am, flipper wrote: On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 17:44:03 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Oct 3, 10:49*pm, Fu Knee wrote: Hi RATs! So, my BlumGarts lasted over a year using 560uF 50V bypass caps. 50V caps have no place in tube equipment. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA Rk bypass Still and all (and to Don also) - I would not use a cap rated at anything less than 150V in any location in any tube equipment - and that includes battery-powered radios commonly using 20V caps in the power-supply as an example - and the ones that most commonly fail as it happens. The incremental cost is minimal and the advantages significant. In the realm of tube audio - even more so. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA Why is that? Do you imagine that you gain some extra safety or performance thereby? I promise you don't. Performance? Not at all. To that end, a cap is a cap is a cap within the most basic parameters. Safety? Depends on how that is defined, but not really, assuming good- quality caps in the first place. I do not expect caps to act as fuses. Nor resistors. Longevity? Reliability? Absolutely. Been-there-done-that far too long and seen far too much in this hobby to minimize parts in this sort of application. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
#9
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
On Oct 5, 11:36*pm, " wrote:
On Oct 5, 8:17*am, flipper wrote: On Sun, 4 Oct 2009 17:44:03 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: On Oct 3, 10:49*pm, Fu Knee wrote: Hi RATs! So, my BlumGarts lasted over a year using 560uF 50V bypass caps. 50V caps have no place in tube equipment. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA Rk bypass Still and all (and to Don also) - I would not use a cap rated at anything less than 150V in any location in any tube equipment - and that includes battery-powered radios commonly using 20V caps in the power-supply as an example - and the ones that most commonly fail as it happens. The incremental cost is minimal and the advantages significant. In the realm of tube audio - even more so. With the plastic caps used around a tube amp circuit, sure, you would not use 50V rated caps. But there are plenty of areas where lower than 50V is good practice because you don't want the rated voltage to be too much above the working or you won't get the wanted polarisation. I would not use a 150V rated electro where the Ek was only 2Vdc. And I don't like huge caps where there could be a perfectly adequate little one. The other important reason electro caps fail is that they get too hot in a tube amp if there is inadequate ventilation under the chassis. Of they fail in a PS because the bias has failed and ripple current plus heat is too much for them. Many amps have a nice row of holes around the output tubes but then have a bloomin PCB board which obstructs the air flow vertically, so the sub-chassis volume gets quite hot, especially in summer. I've sometimes seen the plastic covering over electros begin to peel off in the heat, and you know that cap could fail soon. Its best to never use PCBs in tube amps, and only use terminal strips so the PCB then does not blanket the real estate. Without the pcb, electros will be strapped/bolted to the chassis sides and bedded in silicone and they then run cooler. Modern electros are very reliable when the temperature and ripple current and working voltages are all within ratings. Patrick Turner. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
#11
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
Peter wrote:
50V caps have no place in tube equipment. I've used them for small valve cathode bypass. Less reliable than a higher voltage, but adequate, and cheap and compact. Temperature rating is also important for longevity, presumably. What's the difference, in terms of construction, between electrolytics rated for different voltages? Ian |
#12
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
On Oct 5, 5:31*pm, "Ian Iveson"
wrote: What's the difference, in terms of construction, between electrolytics rated for different voltages? Primarily the robustness of the elements making it. Just as a chain required to stretch ten feet but hold only a few grams may be of a different sort of construction than a chain stretching the same distance but required to hold several pounds. That also translates to size, all other things being equal, and in applications where real- estate is precious this could be a concern. However, it has been my experience that tube-based equipment is inherently wasteful of real- estate such that this is seldom at issue. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
#13
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
Peter wrote:
***Primarily the robustness of the elements making it. Just as a chain required to stretch ten feet but hold only a few grams may be of a different sort of construction than a chain stretching the same distance but required to hold several pounds. That also translates to size, all other things being equal, and in applications where real- estate is precious this could be a concern. However, it has been my experience that tube-based equipment is inherently wasteful of real- estate such that this is seldom at issue.*** Hmm. I asked because the answer isn't obvious, as it would be for a film cap, where higher voltage ratings can use a thicker dielectric layer. With an electrolytic, once the oxide layer is complete, no more can be deposited by electrolytic action because there is no conduction. The thickness of dielectric between the aluminium electrode and the electrolyte is presumably therefore always pretty much the same. I remember reading that higher capacitance for the same linear area of electrode can be achieved by etching the aluminium to give a rough matt finish, increasing the surface area. Considering higher voltage rating caps are bigger, I assume their electrodes must be smoother, possibly polished. I guess that a rougher finish leads to many points of charge concentration ('point action'), making arcing more likely for a given voltage. Where your "robustness" may come in is that there will always be the odd rough spot or defect that will get zapped as the cap charges to its rated voltage, especially for the first time or after a period of languor. The higher energy of higher-voltage arcs may require a thicker foil to contain the damage. The upshot is that electrolytics get bigger with voltage rating in similar proportion as do film caps, even though the reasons are different. I've thought of another question. What happens to the insulating layer of oxide if the cap polarity is reversed? Does it turn back into aluminium? How does that happen when, initially at least, no DC current is flowing? Ian |
#14
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
On Oct 6, 9:08*am, "Ian Iveson"
wrote: The upshot is that electrolytics get bigger with voltage rating in similar proportion as do film caps, even though the reasons are different. I've thought of another question. What happens to the insulating layer of oxide if the cap polarity is reversed? Does it turn back into aluminium? How does that happen when, initially at least, no DC current is flowing? I will distill the off-group reply. "Ruggedness" applies to the thickness of the foil, pattern (if any) on the foil, the precise chemical nature of the electrolyte, and the tightness with which it is wound vs. the surface area of the cap. Aluminum oxides are very, very stable. But in this application, if reverse voltage is applied in sufficient quantity the caps will outgas and explode. KABOOM. Try it one day - but stand back and wear goggles, and point the top or bleed area of the cap away from yourself. Kinda-sorta like applying reverse voltage on a diode - nothing much happens until it does. And the next state is complete failure. There is lots out there on capacitor construction and the various forms of electrolytes, metals used and failure modes. A google search will bring you more reading than you will ever care to do. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
#15
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
Hi RATs!
Thank you for all the 'tro info. I knew I was pushing the envelope operating the 50V units at 53V ... lasted over a year, of pretty much 24/7. Many thunderstorms passed over, without incident. Finally, one of the four caps farted off into that Great Beyond. So, that tube glowed red for the time it took me to get out of bed and shut it down. I have the chassis sanding on its back, so the power cable hangs down, and I can pull it out of the socket with minimal perceptual processing. And I am rather too well informed on getting things done with minimal ... sigh. And, thank you for the tip on painting the town red There are lots of Jennifers on this planet, every one is capable of amazing feats of social interaction, you know, when the mood strikes ... .... I am an old guy, 62, and not healthy, as I have had this bit of some wretched bother for a few days, or weeks, well, OK, about twelve years ... anyway, I cling to the sounds in my room like a huge turd found floating in this sea of madness and sadness. You know, when I can. Not as often as: "Once upon a time". Think of me as a sea going dung beetle, sailing this piece of excrement in search of the Holy B+ Rail. We, my good, if even less healthy, wife and I, have retreated to this preposterous huge suburban tract house to live out our lives, as the event horizon comes rushing forward like a really low budget horror movie scene. You will know what I mean, when you see it .. not before. When I first saw the "Garter" circuit, I was struck by the simplicity of that solution to get two tubes to draw the same current, at idle, in a push-pull output stage. The two tubes are amplifying the same signal (approximately 180 degrees out of phase). Balanced current flow, while idle, allows perfect silence to be output to the speaker, when there is no input signal. Then, when something happens, the tubes take off in opposite directions from a better rest position, compared to any DC offset while idle. And Eric Barbour has proved it works for Parallel Push-Pull. And, that idle current determines how well the output transformer can pass signals. It ain't pretty, just the way it is. It is glorious I learned of this circuit from John Broskie's www.tubecad.com site. He never actually built it, just did the 'simulation', or 'emulation', and was impressed with the results. Of course, him being a real engineer, he took the idea and ran off into the night designing circuts that could do it even better That was about five years ago. Recently, he went back and decided his little darlings were not exactly as superior as he had imagined. So, he did some new work ...more genius output I got lucky and was listening to my eBay Heathkit A7-E a few years ago and suddenly remembered the circuit and powered it down and soldered it in. Wow! It is so cool when an idea finds a home. The Heathkit A7-E sold for $17.95 in the early fifties. It was the top of the line, with potted transformes and a built in Phono preamp. I bypassed the preamp and tied my CD box directly to the volume control. I loved vinyl, but playing LPs from this bed is a bit too much exercise. I really tried ---- This Just In: To Do: check out the new Nalu from Ocean Kayak - I don't paddle, neither, but, I do dream of something nobler than clinging to this POS life. --- The 'Garter" circuit does work with no bypass caps, too, if you do not need all that gain. Happy Ears! Al |
#16
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
On Oct 5, 7:29*pm, " wrote:
On Oct 5, 5:31*pm, "Ian Iveson" wrote: What's the difference, in terms of construction, between electrolytics rated for different voltages? Primarily the robustness of the elements making it. Just as a chain required to stretch ten feet but hold only a few grams may be of a different sort of construction than a chain stretching the same distance but required to hold several pounds. That also translates to size, all other things being equal, and in applications where real- estate is precious this could be a concern. However, it has been my experience that tube-based equipment is inherently wasteful of real- estate such that this is seldom at issue. You do not want to run lytics at very much lower than rated value. They de-form and then when the spike you were overbuilding against does hit them, poof. 50 vwdc is okay for 6.3 vwdc heater regulated supplies, because much more will take out the regulator, pass transistor and diodes as well or before the caps. Crowbar protection is called for here. Or, is it? There is a school of design called "strong link/weak link" or SGTG which has existed since the steam era but reached its zenith in the design of nuclear weapons surety systems. Basically, you want something to break first in the chain at a location you can predict. In nuke weapons that something should be something inaccessible without destroying the weapon and the weapon's (presumably unauthorized) tinkerer. In everyday applications that should be an accessible, inexpensive, easily changed part rather than one that is deeply embedded or expensive. A good example is the small quill shaft used to drive the scavenge blower-calling it a supercharger is like calling Howard Dumbbell, Howard-on a Detroit Diesel engine. If the blower FODs out the shaft will fail before destroying the blower. It's better to blow up the regulator or pass transistor than the power transformer, IOW. It's OK to use a 450 wvdc lytic at 300 volts but at 150 you are wasting space and money and positively harming the design at 50. If you really need a big nominal to peak ratio use oil caps. |
#17
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
DC current does flow, once past the 'diode like' bias voltage. Hydrogen atoms are injected into the oxide reducing it and 'deinsulating' the electrode. The bigger problem is out gassing. They explode under the pressure. Oh boy do they. I've blown up a lot of old bad lytics on purpose for fireworks. The big old juice can ones can really give a hell of a bang especially if you epoxy over the vent hole. |
#18
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
On Oct 7, 9:10*am, Fu Knee wrote:
Hi RATs! Thank you for all the 'tro info. I knew I was pushing the envelope operating the 50V units at 53V ... lasted over a year, of pretty much 24/7. Many thunderstorms passed over, without incident. Finally, one of the four caps farted off into that Great Beyond. So, that tube glowed red for the time it took me to get out of bed and shut it down. I have the chassis sanding on its back, so the power cable hangs down, and I can pull it out of the socket with minimal perceptual processing. And I am rather too well informed on getting things done with minimal ... sigh. And, thank you for the tip on painting the town red There are lots of Jennifers on this planet, every one is capable of amazing feats of social interaction, you know, when the mood strikes ... ... I am an old guy, 62, and not healthy, as I have had this bit of some wretched bother for a few days, or weeks, well, OK, about twelve years ... anyway, I cling to the sounds in my room like a huge turd found floating in this sea of madness and sadness. You know, when I can. Not as often as: "Once upon a time". Soon you will die. So quit wasting time on stupid things like the Blumlein garter circuit. Blumlein was a genius, yes. But he designed that circuit at a specific time and place for a specific job that no longer exists. Using it today is stupid. Blumlein would tell you that yourself if he were here now. I repeat, using the Blumlein garter circuit today is stupid. Why don't you use your remaining time on planet to do something people will benefit from? Because the only thing that lives forever is the fame of a dead man's deeds. |
#19
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
flipper wrote:
Peter wrote: ***Primarily the robustness of the elements making it. Just as a chain required to stretch ten feet but hold only a few grams may be of a different sort of construction than a chain stretching the same distance but required to hold several pounds. That also translates to size, all other things being equal, and in applications where real- estate is precious this could be a concern. However, it has been my experience that tube-based equipment is inherently wasteful of real- estate such that this is seldom at issue.*** Hmm. I asked because the answer isn't obvious, as it would be for a film cap, where higher voltage ratings can use a thicker dielectric layer. Interestingly enough, it's actually 'the same' in one sense. That is, the voltage withstand is related to the oxide thickness. With an electrolytic, once the oxide layer is complete, no more can be deposited by electrolytic action because there is no conduction. The thickness of dielectric between the aluminium electrode and the electrolyte is presumably therefore always pretty much the same. It increases with the voltage. How? Anodising requires current but the oxide is an insulator. Do you have any actual data to back up your hypothesis? Is the oxide layer in a 600V cap 100 times the thickness of one rated at 6V? How much thicker is it, and why is that thickness adequate to explain the higher voltage rating? When I got anodising done, I knew better, I thought, than to ask for a thicker coating. I would have got nothing but a withering look in return. I said "pretty much the same", as I guess thickness may increase slightly, because electrolytic caps have some leakage and some of that may be due to current through the oxide layer AFAIK, but I don't actually know. I remember reading that higher capacitance for the same linear area of electrode can be achieved by etching the aluminium to give a rough matt finish, increasing the surface area. Considering higher voltage rating caps are bigger, I assume their electrodes must be smoother, possibly polished. I guess that a rougher finish leads to many points of charge concentration ('point action'), making arcing more likely for a given voltage. Electrolytics are (within limits) 'self healing'. Any 'uninsulated' spot gets insulated by current flow and the electrolytic reaction, as in "forming." Yes, of course. I think however that it isn't quite like in "forming", as you say, because the electrolyte in the cap is different from the one used for anodising. Your comment about high voltage caps and 'smooth' electrodes is half right but for the wrong reason. It isn't because of 'arcing' but the oxide thickness and method of increasing foil area by etching. As voltage increases the oxide thickness increases limiting the 'fineness' of etch one can use. I.E. a 'thick' coating 'covers up' a very fine etch pattern rendering it essentially a 'non-etch'. Rather than simply 'live with it' you use a coarser pattern but that means more area (hence final volume) per unit of capacitance. I wondered about using the word "arcing". I mean local discharge through the insulating layer, whether a spark is involved or not. Wanted to avoid the word "discharge" because it could easily be misunderstood wrt a capacitor. When you say "wrong", do you mean to imply that a rough surface does *not* make local discharges more likely? How not? How does your capacitor defeat point action? How does your cap prevent whiskers being melted by the higher currents resulting from higher voltage discharges? There is room enough in the story for us both to be right. What happens when a cap fails due to over-voltage? My assumption has been that local discharges become energetic enough to damage more than they heal. Once this happens the rate of damage increases in proportion to the damage done, and catastrophic failure ensues. If, however, more voltage results in the production of a thicker layer of oxide, I would expect the normal anodising process to continue over the whole surface area. It is common for anodisers to use a current-limited power supply to achieve perhaps 12A per square foot, possible with around 12V. That would overheat a cap quite quickly. OTOH, if the current is limited carefully to a few milliamps, why can't I make a low voltage cap into a high one just by exposure to high voltage? There has to be enough film to oxidize as well so it's also thicker. By how much? The oxide layer is very thin, and of greater volume than the aluminium it consumes, which therefore wouldn't get much thinner it seems to me. And anyway, the issue was how thick the aluminium is *in the cap*, not how thick it was before it was anodised. Where your "robustness" may come in is that there will always be the odd rough spot or defect that will get zapped as the cap charges to its rated voltage, especially for the first time or after a period of languor. The higher energy of higher-voltage arcs may require a thicker foil to contain the damage. It self heals 'exposed' or 'weak' insulation. Yes, we know that. The issue here is how it fails. In normal operation, why does a high voltage cap need thicker aluminium than a low voltage one? Self healing is common to all. If a thicker foil is used for higher voltages, then does that mean that ESR is lower for caps of higher voltage rating? Or is most of the ESR attributable to the electrolyte layer? The upshot is that electrolytics get bigger with voltage rating in similar proportion as do film caps, even though the reasons are different. I've thought of another question. What happens to the insulating layer of oxide if the cap polarity is reversed? Does it turn back into aluminium? How does that happen when, initially at least, no DC current is flowing? DC current does flow, once past the 'diode like' bias voltage. Which doesn't answer the question of how, considering the oxide is an insulator, which means current can't flow. Can I assume that the voltage difference is sufficient to begin to reduce the oxide, and that the process of reduction leads to current, and happens at a similar rate to the process of oxidation? Anodising at my local shop takes hours at 12A per square foot. Even if the process of de-anodising was just as slow, the current would fry the cap even before it resulted in a short. Hydrogen atoms are injected into the oxide reducing it and 'deinsulating' the electrode. The bigger problem is out gassing. They explode under the pressure. OK. I blew one up once but I didn't time it. What is the gas? Steam or oxygen? The electrolyte is presumably chosen so that hydrogen isn't released by the process of healing, in which case hydrogen combined somehow in the electrolyte would be available to mop up some oxygen if the process is reversible, but not enough to contain all the oxygen released by wholesale reduction of the oxide layer. Overall, your story contains some truth, but you are underplaying the importance of continuing processes that consume resources, are damaging by nature, and eventually result in failure. A high voltage cap needs more resources because the processes of failure are hastened by high voltage. Finally, I think you are wrong to argue that voltage rating is not a guide to reliability. I think higher voltage caps are less likely to suffer from electrolyte failure, for instance, because they contain more electrolyte. In general, as Peter originally implied, they have more resources to cope with the inevitable and continuous processes of decay. The details aren't simple, but the more I consider the "overall robustness" argument, the more sense it makes. Ian |
#20
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
On Oct 7, 1:49�pm, Bret L wrote:
�Soon you will die. �So quit wasting time on stupid things like the Blumlein garter circuit. �Blumlein was a genius, yes. But he designed that circuit at a specific time and place for a specific job that no longer exists. Using it today is stupid. Blumlein would tell you that yourself if he were here now. �I repeat, using the Blumlein garter circuit today is stupid. �Why don't you use your remaining time on planet to do something people will benefit from? Because the only thing that lives forever is the fame of a dead man's deeds Hi RATs! Relax, Burp, ignorance and hostility exactly like yours is being reborn every few seconds. It will never end. You are a vulgar noisemaker. I commend your parents for showing such a fine eye for detail when they separated you from real **** when you were an infant. Consider this a love note. I do not understand people who spend timing attacking others for having fun with their hobby. The garters are a simple idea. They perform a simple function, very well. You provide no function whatsoever. Spewing stupidity is not a function I love trading insults on this forum. Folks can read and realize their lives are much better than some. Happy Ears! Al PS Immortality is a fool's quest |
#21
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
Bret L wrote:
You do not want to run lytics at very much lower than rated value. They de-form and then when the spike you were overbuilding against does hit them, poof. ***This might have been a very good point. ***But your argument doesn't make sense. If I use a HV-rated electro in an application that *never* exceeds 50V, i.e. in a situation where a 50V cap would be an acceptable alternative, why is that a bad thing to do? You say it wastes space, but you avoid the issue at stake, which is whether the HV-rated cap would last longer in that context. ***If, in the situation you describe of occasional HV, I used a 50V cap, then it would fail far more certainly than the HV rated one. Your point leads to the conclusion that the presence of occasional HV rules out the use of *any* electrolytic cap. 50 vwdc is okay for 6.3 vwdc heater regulated supplies, because much more will take out the regulator, pass transistor and diodes as well or before the caps. Crowbar protection is called for here. Or, is it? ***A fuse is better in series than in parallel, wouldn't you say? A cap may blow to either a short or an open circuit. One would take out the tranny, which could be very expensive if the windings are all on one transformer, the other wouldn't protect anything. There is a school of design called "strong link/weak link" or SGTG which has existed since the steam era but reached its zenith in the design of nuclear weapons surety systems. Basically, you want something to break first in the chain at a location you can predict. In nuke weapons that something should be something inaccessible without destroying the weapon and the weapon's (presumably unauthorized) tinkerer. In everyday applications that should be an accessible, inexpensive, easily changed part rather than one that is deeply embedded or expensive. A good example is the small quill shaft used to drive the scavenge blower-calling it a supercharger is like calling Howard Dumbbell, Howard-on a Detroit Diesel engine. If the blower FODs out the shaft will fail before destroying the blower. It's better to blow up the regulator or pass transistor than the power transformer, IOW. ***How does a cap with a low voltage rating achieve that? It's OK to use a 450 wvdc lytic at 300 volts but at 150 you are wasting space and money and positively harming the design at 50. If you really need a big nominal to peak ratio use oil caps. ***That's what I do, but all the same I think higher voltage rated caps might generally be more reliable. It's just I don't think the extra reliability is worth the downsides. Ian |
#22
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
***That's what I do, but all the same I think higher voltage rated caps might generally be more reliable. It's just I don't think the extra reliability is worth the downsides. They are but only to a point. That point is roughly twice rated voltage. If you want more reliability you need a higher rated cap. Lytics come in several ratings and cost levels, but none of them are the equal of oil filled types by nature. Oil caps are the best for any considerable voltage but the size and weight for needed values get unwieldy quickly. Marantz used oil caps on its first amplifiers. Those oil caps usually still work after 50+ years. Later Marantz amps used a "telco grade" lytic. Those hold up MUCH better than the commodisumo lytics in Fenders and McIntoshes but still some have failed. Any Marantz 8B (besides reissues) is at least 42-43 and most were made before '63. They don't make this grade of lytic anymore as far as I am able to determine. |
#23
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
On Oct 8, 1:06�am, flipper wrote:
Far be it for me to intrude upon your myths. After all, the folks making a living in reliability and life analysis probably don't have the 'in depth' understanding of 'resources' you do. Ian Hi RATs! We are meerly typing to pass some time. Nobody is learning, nor preaching, Great Truths. Not even me! Bret is a bright boy. And, like all precocious children, is full of himself. Could we type about tube audio, and try to minimize pointing out each other's foibles? I am an old man. I slap errant children. And, like that drag queen "mother" on Monty Python, sometimes - just for the FUN of it. I am not perfect. Perfection is a whole other newsgroup ... People type nonsense. Not some people, all ... well, except Our Holy Father Andre. Happy Ears! Al |
#24
Posted to rec.audio.tubes
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More cap tuning
"Ian Iveson" wrote in
message news Peter wrote: 50V caps have no place in tube equipment. I've used them for small valve cathode bypass. Less reliable than a higher voltage, but adequate, and cheap and compact. Temperature rating is also important for longevity, presumably. What's the difference, in terms of construction, between electrolytics rated for different voltages? http://archive.chipcenter.com/eexper...kruger006.html "Dielectric Thickness. "Several metals, such as tantalum, aluminum, niobium, zirconium and zinc, can be coated with an oxide film by electrochemical means. For example, by placing aluminum in appropriate solution and passing a current though the circuit, a thin layer of aluminum oxide (Al2O3) forms on the aluminum anode. It is this thin oxide film that is the dielectric in an electrolytic capacitor, and the electrolytic process used for creating the dielectric gives the name "electrolytic capacitor". The thickness of the oxide layer depends on the formation voltage, which is typically 3-4 times higher than the rated voltage, but it is very thin: less than a micrometer. " Note: "The thickness of the oxide layer depends on the formation voltage, which is typically 3-4 times higher than the rated voltage, but it is very thin: less than a micrometer." Anodizing aluminum for 450 volt electrolytics would appear to be something that takes a lot of care due to the safety issues. |
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