[[email protected]]

Hi,

I have a CDX-GT700D Sony Xplod head unit.

Please, help me with appropriate amp and sub.

I'm looking to match rms and peak power output.

I have a ford ikon.

Thanks in advance.

-Raj

[KU40]

we're going to need a lot more info. how much space do you have? what
is your goal with the sub output and quality? what's your budget? do
you have any idea what you might want, like one or two 10", 12", etc?


--
KU40

[John]

you also need to match rms to rms

Go to carstereos.org and sign up (free) and we can help you more.


--
John

[Karlsson]

wrote:
Hi,

I have a CDX-GT700D Sony Xplod head unit.

Please, help me with appropriate amp and sub.

I'm looking to match rms and peak power output.

I have a ford ikon.

Thanks in advance.

-Raj



The most simple rule there is , get a amp that has about 1/2 the watt output
the sub or subs have ( carefull they are both the same watts like rms or
music watts )

[KU40]

Karlsson;659967 Wrote:



The most simple rule there is , get a amp that has about 1/2 the watt
output
the sub or subs have ( carefull they are both the same watts like rms
or
music watts )

why would you want to do that? matching RMS ratings is the logical
thing to do.


--
KU40

[smoove]

Depending on box style most of the people I know have with the amp being
50-100rms higher than the Subs rms rating. It's always better to over power
than under power. You can always turn things down. turning up an without
enough power can create distortion.

"KU40" wrote in message
...

Karlsson;659967 Wrote:



The most simple rule there is , get a amp that has about 1/2 the watt
output
the sub or subs have ( carefull they are both the same watts like rms
or
music watts )

why would you want to do that? matching RMS ratings is the logical
thing to do.


--
KU40

[John]

smoove, first, learn how to proofread...
Actually, I disagree, it's better to under power (blanket statement).
The rest of your arguement has no basis...it is too vague and general.
There is more than just the sub and amp, taking into account the
impedence rise, the amps actual output, etc... Regardless, most subs
don't need their full rms.


--
John

[Captain_Howdy]

What are you talking about, most subs
don't need their full rms? Most people don't need subs at all if you want to
go down that road.The type of box that you install the sub into has the final
say in just how much power is needed to get maximum performance. As for it's
better to under power, Im not sure what gives you that idea since an
under powered amp can do damage when clipped aways. Hope that isn't too vague
for you.


In article , John
wrote:

smoove, first, learn how to proofread...
Actually, I disagree, it's better to under power (blanket statement).
The rest of your arguement has no basis...it is too vague and general.
There is more than just the sub and amp, taking into account the
impedence rise, the amps actual output, etc... Regardless, most subs
don't need their full rms.

[KU40]

i guess he didn't really want help after all.....


--
KU40

[John]

Captain howdy, you're wrong. Instead of elaborating on that and wasting
my time, go he
http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm
and even he's being generous...
and see a past discussion on our site:
http://forum.carstereos.org/technica...es-t43841.html
http://forum.carstereos.org/technica...s-p457221.html
...feel free to join the forum!

As for it's better to under power, Im not sure what gives you that
idea since an under powered amp can do damage when clipped aways. Hope
that isn't too vague for you.


--
John

[smoove]

I never said under powering killed speakers. Slightly overpowering will help
retain sound quality since there will be no clipping. And yes another BIG
factor in how much power you need is based on the style of box you are
using.

"John" wrote in message
...

Captain howdy, you're wrong. Instead of elaborating on that and wasting
my time, go he
http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm
and even he's being generous...
and see a past discussion on our site:
http://forum.carstereos.org/technica...es-t43841.html
http://forum.carstereos.org/technica...s-p457221.html
..feel free to join the forum!

As for it's better to under power, Im not sure what gives you that
idea since an under powered amp can do damage when clipped aways. Hope
that isn't too vague for you.


--
John

[Captain_Howdy]

John, That's a very interesting page it starts by saying "Too Little Power:
As you have probably heard, some people say that too little power can blow
speakers. Well... How can I say this... BULL S***"

Then it gets into explaning why "Too Little Power" can blow speakers when the
amplifier is clipped and the square wave amplitude doubles. I'm not sure if
someone forgot the point of the page after they got started, because they
surely laid out more then enough proof as to why clipping would or could blow
speakers.

There are a few major speaker damaging factors that this page does not go in
to, one being what happens when an amp is clipped beyond it thermo limit's.
The amp's mosfets overheat and melt causing a dead short in the amp's output
stage, at this point the amp starts sending DC rail voltage right into the
speaker and the speaker starts to smoke. I have smoked more then enough
speakers repairing dead amplifiers because I have missed a shorted transistor.
Even without that said, say that you have a 100w rms speaker powered by a 50w
rms amp, and you clip that amp (it's not hard to do at all) into square wave
you are now doubling the amps output as stated in the link that you posted.
100w of clipped power going into a 100w speaker without the speaker moving as
pointed in the same page, wouldn't it only be logical to think that the
speaker coil is going to melt, even if the amp itself does not fail and help
the speaker to it doom? After all we did start with an amp that has only have
the rms rating of the speaker.

Don't get me wrong you can blow a speaker by over powering it, but with common
sense you can push that speaker harder and cleaner (less clipping) by over
powering it then under powering it.


In article , John
wrote:

Captain howdy, you're wrong. Instead of elaborating on that and wasting
my time, go he
http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm
and even he's being generous...
and see a past discussion on our site:
http://forum.carstereos.org/technica...es-t43841.html
http://forum.carstereos.org/technica...s-p457221.html
...feel free to join the forum!

As for it's better to under power, Im not sure what gives you that
idea since an under powered amp can do damage when clipped aways. Hope
that isn't too vague for you.

[John]

With common sense you can push that speaker without having your amp clip
the signal, no matter how much power you have going to it.


--
John

[KU40]

the speaker DOES still move when the signal is fully clipped. I can't
remember what article I was reading, but it says that unlike what they
myth states, the sub does not excurt all the way out and hold there
while the top of the chopped wave passes. so even a square wave at the
RMS of the sub will not blow it, because the sub is still moving just as
much as with a normal unclipped sine wave at rms wattage, thus providing
the exact same cooling.


--
KU40

[Captain_Howdy]

There you go then.


In article , John
wrote:

With common sense you can push that speaker without having your amp clip
the signal, no matter how much power you have going to it.

[Captain_Howdy]

I have never tested this per say, but what I do know is that clipping does
heat up the coils more. I know that when I stepped up from a 800 watt amp to
the 1500w amp with the 800 watt amp the woofers ran warm while with the 1500
watt amp at the same listening level there is next to no heat at all. The 1500
watt amp is the same make and line as the 800 watt amp and in fact the amp
itself runs cooler and sounds cleaner also.

In article , KU40
wrote:

the speaker DOES still move when the signal is fully clipped. I can't
remember what article I was reading, but it says that unlike what they
myth states, the sub does not excurt all the way out and hold there
while the top of the chopped wave passes. so even a square wave at the
RMS of the sub will not blow it, because the sub is still moving just as
much as with a normal unclipped sine wave at rms wattage, thus providing
the exact same cooling.

[John]

You do not understand and refuse to try, and that's fine, be happy in
your ignorance.


--
John

[Captain_Howdy]

I understand just fine, I've been there and done that.


In article , John
wrote:

You do not understand and refuse to try, and that's fine, be happy in
your ignorance.

[John]

...and apparently you didn't learn a thing anywhere in between.


--
John

[Captain_Howdy]

What does your car audio look like? ****ing newbies.

In article , John
wrote:

...and apparently you didn't learn a thing anywhere in between.

[John]

...a typical response of the young and immature.


--
John

[Captain_Howdy]

Since you're posting on carstereos.org and were born around the same time that
most of us started installing in this newsgroup, I'll let your silly ass
responses go. So stick around and learn something and clean all of that rust
on your upgraded alternator ground.





In article , John
wrote:

...a typical response of the young and immature.

[John]

Wtf? Are you talking about...do you know?
1. You do not know me, my background, and have no idea when I was born.
2. You 'install' in a newsgroup...How does that work?
3. No rust on any of my vehicles alternators, so what's the basis for
that comment?
4. So what's your car audio look like?


--
John

[KU40]

what does car audio look like in the first place? invisible waves?


--
KU40

[D.Kreft]

On Dec 9, 2:06 pm, KU40 wrote:

what does car audio look like in the first place? invisible waves?

I think it's one of them "new age" things...apparently he can see his
system's aura and know that all is well.

"My aura is pink."

"Yeah, well my aura is yellow in the middle with lots of orange around
the outside. Take your sissy-pink-auraed system and go home, ya
snot-nosed punk."

I don't get it either....but I figure it's just best to stay out of the
way of these two--minimize collateral damage and all.

-dan

[Captain_Howdy]

I think that you know what I am talking about.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/170592

You silly little Turkeygaylord or Jordan from Fargo North Dakota



In article , John
wrote:

Wtf? Are you talking about...do you know?
1. You do not know me, my background, and have no idea when I was born.
2. You 'install' in a newsgroup...How does that work?
3. No rust on any of my vehicles alternators, so what's the basis for
that comment?
4. So what's your car audio look like?

[Captain_Howdy]

Try your local box store and ask someone to point you to the car audio
department, then let us all know what car audio looks like.


In article , KU40
wrote:

what does car audio look like in the first place? invisible waves?

[X-OvrDistortion]

What is real funny is that fact that I personally know both of these
guys. They are indeed two completely different people. ****, Jordan
is sitting here at my house right now. And those pictures, yea, they
are old. That car has been long gone.

So, before you go and start bashing folks, make sure that you have the
people correct.


--
X-OvrDistortion

[John]

Captain_Howdy
I think that you know what I am talking about.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/170592

You silly little Turkeygaylord or Jordan from Fargo North Dakota

Haha, well I'm sorry to disappoint you, but that's not me!
You see captain, my screen name and my actual name is, get this, John.
I know, I know, a stretch huh? It's hard to believe that someone with
the username John would actually be named John, and not Jordan, but it
is actually true! Believe it or not. Also, I am actually from the next
state to the east, not to mention hours and hours away from North
Dakota. I also do not own any foreign vehicles.

I do know a little about what you speek of though, although you are
incorrect in your assumptions. See Jordan is also known as Turkey Lord.
That is his nickname. He goes by a screen name not so far fetched as my
own. For Jordan's screen name, he removed the letters U,R,K,E,Y,O,R,
and D from his nickname, making an abbreviation if you will, and
decided to go by the name TL. Jordan is not "gay" as far as I know,
well, I suppose he is "happy" though, he recently purchased a new home.
Anyway, thanks for playing, better luck next time though!


--
John

[Captain_Howdy]

You're right, should of said Winona Minnesota

[John]

Ha, wrong again, getting closer though.


--
John

[KU40]

Captain_Howdy;660697 Wrote:
Try your local box store and ask someone to point you to the car audio
department, then let us all know what car audio looks like.



why, is that where you got yours?

you're not making or proving any points, just drop it.


--
KU40

[Captain_Howdy]

Stupid questions get stupid answers.


In article , KU40
wrote:

Captain_Howdy;660697 Wrote:
Try your local box store and ask someone to point you to the car audio
department, then let us all know what car audio looks like.



Nah

why, is that where you got yours?

Who is?

you're not making or proving any points, just drop it.


you're not making or proving any points

[John]

Captain_Howdy;660697 Wrote:
Who is?

?


--
John

[KU40]

Captain_Howdy;660962 Wrote:
Stupid questions get stupid answers.



You're the one who asked "What does your car audio look like?" Stupid
questions get more stupid questions.


--
KU40

[Captain_Howdy]

pre school?

In article , KU40
wrote:

Captain_Howdy;660962 Wrote:
Stupid questions get stupid answers.



You're the one who asked "What does your car audio look like?" Stupid
questions get more stupid questions.

[flak_monkey]

KU40;659983 Wrote:
why would you want to do that? matching RMS ratings is the logical
thing to do.
Logical yes, and a lot better than the previous notion.
For a permanent install, where you are not going to ever change the
box, you should get an amp that puts out 110% of what it will take to
push the sub to it's xmax in that particular installation.

Much better is to get an amp that will do 110% of the sub's thermal rms
power handling. This method works best (IMHO) for amps with tightly
regulated power supplies or amps with rms ratings tested at voltages
close to those that it will actually see in your car. Other amps that
will put out more power with more voltage, it's better in my opinion to
match the rms value of the amp and the sub as close as possible.

The most important thing is to set your gains with a multimeter or an
oscilloscope so that the amp will only put out enough to take the sub
to xmax in that particular install and won't clip OR to the sub's
thermal power limit, which ever comes FIRST.


--
flak_monkey

[KU40]

Captain_Howdy;661060 Wrote:
pre school?



yes I did attend preschool.


--
KU40

[flak_monkey]

KU40;661066 Wrote:
yes I did attend preschool.
then you should make capt. howdy a pasta necklace

PS
make me a turkey out of your hand print on brown paper to put on my
fridge.


--
flak_monkey

[KU40]

will do, but it's a little after thanksgiving. do you accept late work?


--
KU40