[[email protected]]

Just picked up some Mogami-3130 11 gauge wire to connect to some NHT Series 3.

The dealer, who mainly wires studios, said just connect the bare wires. Do
I face potential corrosion issues if I don't use terminators, such as
spades or bananas? Are there benefits to using terminators, or are they
just another revenue stream for the dealers?

Thanks,

Z.
-=-

[Serge Auckland]

wrote in message ...
Just picked up some Mogami-3130 11 gauge wire to connect to some NHT
Series 3.

The dealer, who mainly wires studios, said just connect the bare wires. Do
I face potential corrosion issues if I don't use terminators, such as
spades or bananas? Are there benefits to using terminators, or are they
just another revenue stream for the dealers?

Thanks,

Z.
-=-

Terminations have one great benefit, that they keep the strands of wire all
together and reduce the risk of short-circuits. They also look a lot neater,
and with them it is easier to remove and refit the cable. Bananas are
particularly helpful if you are going to be plugging and unplugging
regularly. I would use bananas rather than spades as bananas have a good
spring contact, but would use spades is I was using very high powers into
low impedances. For normal domestic powers, bananas would be my choice.

As to a revenue stream for dealers, I wouldn't pay more than a few
pence/cents per banana plug, so there's not much scope for dealers getting
rich.

S.

--
http://audiopages.googlepages.com

[Eeyore]

wrote:

Just picked up some Mogami-3130 11 gauge wire to connect to some NHT Series 3.

The dealer, who mainly wires studios, said just connect the bare wires. Do
I face potential corrosion issues if I don't use terminators, such as
spades or bananas? Are there benefits to using terminators, or are they
just another revenue stream for the dealers?

They're not 'terminators' - that's something else quite specific and very
important in its own right in other applications like radio frequency and computer
interfaces - but *terminations* !

A 'banana plug' (4mm plug) or spade or lug terminal will prevent issues with bare
copper wire oxidising and are a *good thing* !

As for revenue stream these are low cost items. Don't buy stupidly overpriced
gold-plated crap from the dealer if that's what he's offering. An 'industrial'
part from an electrical factor will do nicely.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/250-assorted-e...QQcmdZViewItem

Graham

[Peter Wieck]

On Jun 2, 10:52 am, wrote:
Just picked up some Mogami-3130 11 gauge wire to connect to some NHT Series 3.

The dealer, who mainly wires studios, said just connect the bare wires. Do
I face potential corrosion issues if I don't use terminators, such as
spades or bananas? Are there benefits to using terminators, or are they
just another revenue stream for the dealers?

For my US$0.02, I prefer spade lugs *soldered* to the wires and then
properly clamped into the amp. If we are discussing the spring-clip
connectors now popular on some speakers and amps, I will tin the ends
of the wires and slightly flatten them with a pair of smooth-jaw
needle-nose pliers so that the flats bear on the springs for more
surface contact.

Bananna jacks & plugs are most useful when the connections are made
and unmade quite often. As good as the good ones are and as convenient
as they might be, it remains a 'friction only' contact and therefore
no where near as positive as the alternatives. If your source has
banana jacks on it, you can get pin-plugs that connect-by-clamp
instead of just friction.

I would also think that corrosion (if not gold plated... and, this is
the ONLY reason I can discern for gold-plating for this sort of
application) would be of greatest concern with friction-only
connections such as banana jacks and plugs. On the scale of things,
gold is a (relatively) poor conductor as compared to silver and/or
copper.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

[[email protected]]

On Jun 2, 10:52 am, wrote:
Just picked up some Mogami-3130 11 gaugewireto connect to some NHT Series 3.

The dealer, who mainly wires studios, said just connect thebarewires. Do
I face potential corrosion issues if I don't use terminators, such asspadesorbananas? Are there benefits to using terminators, or are they
just another revenue stream for the dealers?

Thanks,

Z.
-=-

Bare wire is fine, however finger tight is not always enough. Use
pliers. Bananas can be problematic if they are not high quality. I
would not trust any crimped connector if I did not see if it was made
properly. I would trust a crimped connector if it is also soldered. A
spade connector will require more torque to tighten than bare wire.

greg

[Skeeter]

Hello Z

On Jun 2, 10:52 am, wrote:
Just picked up some Mogami-3130 11 gauge wire to connect to some NHT Series 3.

The dealer, who mainly wires studios, said just connect the bare wires. Do
I face potential corrosion issues if I don't use terminators, such as
spades or bananas? Are there benefits to using terminators, or are they
just another revenue stream for the dealers?

Generally, I just twist the stripped, bare wire into a tight mass that
I shape to fit the screw or lug connector, and then I "tin" it with a
drop of solder (heat the wire and "weep" it into the wire) to keep the
wires from fraying and to maintain the desired shape. This method has
worked great for me when putting together high powered, and/or
permanent installations.

If you will be changing connections frequently, I like using banana
plugs. Inexpensive, easy to use, and durable.

Cheers,
Skeeter

[erich]

On Sat, 02 Jun 2007 14:52:22 +0000, zchwax wrote:

Just picked up some Mogami-3130 11 gauge wire to connect to some NHT
Series 3.


My favorite is ring terminals since they can't accidentally slip off the
post. I wish more equipment manufacturers used posts that accepted these.

[Peter Wieck]

On Jun 6, 12:29 am, erich wrote:

My favorite is ring terminals since they can't accidentally slip off the
post. I wish more equipment manufacturers used posts that accepted these.

The short answer to this is to clip the ring terminal, open it
slightly, slip it over the terminal (if screw-type) and then close it
again. No slippage and can be made as tight as required.

Or, obtain spade-lugs with the turned tips. They will not slip
either.

Compression washers are useful.

Peter Wieck
Wyncote, PA

"erich" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 02 Jun 2007 14:52:22 +0000, zchwax wrote:

Just picked up some Mogami-3130 11 gauge wire to connect to some NHT
Series 3.


My favorite is ring terminals since they can't accidentally slip off the
post. I wish more equipment manufacturers used posts that accepted these.

One of the better ways of handling the problem is to tin the last 1/4" of
the wire with solder. This will hold the strands together while you insert
them into the binding post. I usually strip only 1/4" of insulation, tin
the strands, then strip off another 1/2" of insulation.

Norm Strong

[Eeyore]

wrote:

"erich" wrote
zchwax wrote:

Just picked up some Mogami-3130 11 gauge wire to connect to some NHT
Series 3.

My favorite is ring terminals since they can't accidentally slip off the
post. I wish more equipment manufacturers used posts that accepted these.

One of the better ways of handling the problem is to tin the last 1/4" of
the wire with solder. This will hold the strands together while you insert
them into the binding post. I usually strip only 1/4" of insulation, tin
the strands, then strip off another 1/2" of insulation.

Good advice.

Don't tin all the exposed wire you plan to use since solder 'cold flows' under
pressure and any tinned wire screwed down to a binding post will eventually
loosen due to this effect.

Tinning just the end of the wire to keep the strands 'in check' is perfect.

Graham

[Norman M. Schwartz]

"Eeyore" wrote in message
...
wrote:

"erich" wrote
zchwax wrote:

Just picked up some Mogami-3130 11 gauge wire to connect to some NHT
Series 3.

My favorite is ring terminals since they can't accidentally slip off
the
post. I wish more equipment manufacturers used posts that accepted
these.

One of the better ways of handling the problem is to tin the last 1/4" of
the wire with solder. This will hold the strands together while you
insert
them into the binding post. I usually strip only 1/4" of insulation, tin
the strands, then strip off another 1/2" of insulation.

Good advice.

Don't tin all the exposed wire you plan to use since solder 'cold flows'
under
pressure and any tinned wire screwed down to a binding post will
eventually
loosen due to this effect.

Tinning just the end of the wire to keep the strands 'in check' is
perfect.


Perhaps both incorrect and intuitively, I always tighten down enough to
separate as many strands of the wire as is possible. Of both no practical
significance (and applying only or mainly to AC), this could minimize any
"skin effect".

Graham

[Eeyore]

"Norman M. Schwartz" wrote:

Perhaps both incorrect and intuitively, I always tighten down enough to
separate as many strands of the wire as is possible. Of both no practical
significance (and applying only or mainly to AC), this could minimize any
"skin effect".

No.

Ordinary stranded cable behaves identically to solid as far as skin effect is
concerned.

The individual strands have to be insulated from each other for there to be any
skin effect benefit. The advantage of stranded cable over solid is just
flexibility.

Graham

[Andrew Barss]

wrote:
: "erich" wrote in message
: ...
: On Sat, 02 Jun 2007 14:52:22 +0000, zchwax wrote:
:
: Just picked up some Mogami-3130 11 gauge wire to connect to some NHT
: Series 3.
:
:
: My favorite is ring terminals since they can't accidentally slip off the
: post. I wish more equipment manufacturers used posts that accepted these.

: One of the better ways of handling the problem is to tin the last 1/4" of
: the wire with solder. This will hold the strands together while you insert
: them into the binding post. I usually strip only 1/4" of insulation, tin
: the strands, then strip off another 1/2" of insulation.

: Norm Strong

What happens to the connection between the wire and binding post as
the untinned wire oxidizes over time? (I have completely untinned wire
connecting my speakers, and just recently it occurred to me oxidation
might degrade the connection over time). Is this a real issue?

-- Andy Barss

[bob]

On Jun 10, 12:37 pm, Andrew Barss wrote:

What happens to the connection between the wire and binding post as
the untinned wire oxidizes over time? (I have completely untinned wire
connecting my speakers, and just recently it occurred to me oxidation
might degrade the connection over time). Is this a real issue?

Probably not (though it never hurts to check). If you have a tight
connection, you won't get much oxidation at the connection point. I
pulled some wire out of binding posts after about a decade, and the
sections that had been clamped down looked quite clean, compared to
the sections that had been exposed to air.

If you're concerned, snip an inch off the ends every so often.

bob

[Eeyore]

Andrew Barss wrote:

wrote:
: "erich" wrote
: zchwax wrote:
:
: Just picked up some Mogami-3130 11 gauge wire to connect to some NHT
: Series 3.
:
: My favorite is ring terminals since they can't accidentally slip off the
: post. I wish more equipment manufacturers used posts that accepted these.

: One of the better ways of handling the problem is to tin the last 1/4" of
: the wire with solder. This will hold the strands together while you insert
: them into the binding post. I usually strip only 1/4" of insulation, tin
: the strands, then strip off another 1/2" of insulation.

: Norm Strong

What happens to the connection between the wire and binding post as
the untinned wire oxidizes over time? (I have completely untinned wire
connecting my speakers, and just recently it occurred to me oxidation
might degrade the connection over time). Is this a real issue?

Yes. Ultimately it will become one. High pressure contacts keep the oxygen from
making contact with the copper for a long time though.

This is why it's best to use a lug or ring terminal soldered (or high pressure
crimped) onto the cable.

Graham

[Norman M. Schwartz]

"Andrew Barss" wrote in message
...
wrote:
: "erich" wrote in message
: ...
: On Sat, 02 Jun 2007 14:52:22 +0000, zchwax wrote:
:
: Just picked up some Mogami-3130 11 gauge wire to connect to some NHT
: Series 3.
:
:
: My favorite is ring terminals since they can't accidentally slip off
the
: post. I wish more equipment manufacturers used posts that accepted
these.

: One of the better ways of handling the problem is to tin the last 1/4"
of
: the wire with solder. This will hold the strands together while you
insert
: them into the binding post. I usually strip only 1/4" of insulation,
tin
: the strands, then strip off another 1/2" of insulation.

: Norm Strong

What happens to the connection between the wire and binding post as
the untinned wire oxidizes over time? (I have completely untinned wire
connecting my speakers, and just recently it occurred to me oxidation
might degrade the connection over time). Is this a real issue?


One is likely to have untinned wire between the x-overs and drivers within
our speakers. Most likely, those connections will serve to outlast both you
and me.

-- Andy Barss

[[email protected]]

On Jun 10, 9:41 pm, "Norman M. Schwartz" wrote:
"Andrew Barss" wrote in message

...



wrote:
: "erich" wrote in message
...
: On Sat, 02 Jun 2007 14:52:22 +0000, zchwax wrote:
:
: Just picked up some Mogami-3130 11 gaugewireto connect to some NHT
: Series 3.
:
:
: My favorite is ring terminals since they can't accidentally slip off
the
: post. I wish more equipment manufacturers used posts that accepted
these.

: One of the better ways of handling the problem is to tin the last 1/4"
of
: thewirewith solder. This will hold the strands together while you
insert
: them into the binding post. I usually strip only 1/4" of insulation,
tin
: the strands, then strip off another 1/2" of insulation.

: Norm Strong

What happens to the connection between thewireand binding post as
the untinnedwireoxidizes over time? (I have completely untinnedwire
connecting my speakers, and just recently it occurred to me oxidation
might degrade the connection over time). Is this a real issue?

One is likely to have untinnedwirebetween the x-overs and drivers within
our speakers. Most likely, those connections will serve to outlast both you
and me.

-- Andy Barss

I bought a pair of used JBL speakers some time ago. As I was checking
them out, I found at least one internal crimp failing. I soldered all
connections, tweaked the HF crossover, treated the woofer cone, and
tightened all the loose screws inside and out. They turned from a
useless speaker into something nice.

greg