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#1
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Ford Taurus Multiple amps CRAZY setup
I am halving problems with my system. I have 2 amps one that I just
put in and one that I just put in today. The remote wire is does not function properly. The one that accually powers the power anntena does not provide enough power to turn an amp on. Previously I used the remote wire from the old CD changer that was in the car before I bought it. That had enought power to turn on one amp. When I put in my CD changer, that remote coulod not handle turning on the amp and the changer. I opened the fuse box and connected it to the radio fuse (that way it would turn on with the car and still be associated with the audio). This remote was able to turn on the CD changer. When I installed the second amp the old CD changer remote could not power both amps. I tapped into the remote for the new changer and that allowed everything to turn on. Think that's crazy? I'm just getting warmed up. My car has climate control which means it has buttons for A/C and heat, not knobs. Nobody makes a mounting bracket for a head unit that has holes for buttons instead of holes for knobs. Therefore I am stuck with the factory reciever which is located in the trunk on the LX model. Obviously I do not have any RCA's, so I needed an amp with line level input. For that I'm using a Kicker KX 120.2. Thats not powerful enough for the sub I got so I'm going to have that power my rear speakers. The sub amps is connected via RCA's running from the low level out on the kicker amp. I thought the sub amp would need more power because it is more powerful, so I ran my power wire (8 GA) from the battery to the sub amp then over to the Kicker amp. The remote is also going first to the sub amp then to the Kicker amp. Because I needed to run speaker level inputs into the amp I cut the wires just as they came out of the reciever, then connected them to the speaker level inputs on the amp. I connected the speakers wires coming out of the amp to the to the speaker wires right outside of the reciever. That's about where the crazy wiring stops and the crazy electronics begins. I turned everything on and the sub started to act up. as if there was noise in the lines. It went on for about 10 seconds before the radios fuse I was using as a remote blew. at that point I noticed some smoke from under that rear deck as I looked in the trunk. I think it came from a speaker but that doesn't make any sense to me. After I replaced the fuse with a 10 amp instead of a 5 amp I turned everything back on and now the 6x9's cut in and out, but the sub works fine. I'm about to start troubleshooting with a meter. If you like I can post some numbers. Any response would be geratly appreciated even if it's just laughter at my crazy setup. |
#2
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Ford Taurus Multiple amps CRAZY setup
I am halving problems with my system. I have 2 amps one that I just
put in and one that I just put in today. The remote wire is does not function properly. The one that accually powers the power anntena does not provide enough power to turn an amp on. Previously I used the remote wire from the old CD changer that was in the car before I bought it. That had enought power to turn on one amp. When I put in my CD changer, that remote coulod not handle turning on the amp and the changer. I opened the fuse box and connected it to the radio fuse (that way it would turn on with the car and still be associated with the audio). This remote was able to turn on the CD changer. When I installed the second amp the old CD changer remote could not power both amps. I tapped into the remote for the new changer and that allowed everything to turn on. Think that's crazy? Not really. Use the real remote to drive a small 5A relay from Radio Shack (2$). Problem solved. I'm just getting warmed up. My car has climate control which means it has buttons for A/C and heat, not knobs. Nobody makes a mounting bracket for a head unit that has holes for buttons instead of holes for knobs. Or you could pay a professional to make a custom one. It'll cost you. Therefore I am stuck with the factory reciever which is located in the trunk on the LX model. Huh? Do you mean the tuner? Obviously I do not have any RCA's, so I needed an amp with line level input. For that I'm using a Kicker KX 120.2. Thats not powerful enough for the sub I got so I'm going to have that power my rear speakers. The sub amps is connected via RCA's running from the low level out on the kicker amp. I thought the sub amp would need more power because it is more powerful, so I ran my power wire (8 GA) from the battery to the sub amp then over to the Kicker amp. The remote is also going first to the sub amp then to the Kicker amp. Because I needed to run speaker level inputs into the amp I cut the wires just as they came out of the reciever, then connected them to the speaker level inputs on the amp. I connected the speakers wires coming out of the amp to the to the speaker wires right outside of the reciever. That's about where the crazy wiring stops and the crazy electronics begins. I turned everything on and the sub started to act up. as if there was noise in the lines. It went on for about 10 seconds before the radios fuse I was using as a remote blew. at that point I noticed some smoke from under that rear deck as I looked in the trunk. I think it came from a speaker but that doesn't make any sense to me. After I replaced the fuse with a 10 amp instead of a 5 amp I turned everything back on and now the 6x9's cut in and out, but the sub works fine. I'm about to start troubleshooting with a meter. If you like I can post some numbers. Any response would be geratly appreciated even if it's just laughter at my crazy setup. Are you sure this isn't a bose system, or something like it? If so, you can't do what you did. Tell us the year and kind of car you have. |
#3
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Ford Taurus Multiple amps CRAZY setup
I tried using a relay to turn it all on. but the relay wasn't getting
enough power. A friend mentioned a solid state relay, maybe that will work. The buttons in the front of the car are just that: Buttons. The accual reciever is located in the trunk. I have a 1997 Ford Taurus LX. The unit in the back has a small bar code with no numbers on it and "JBL" written across it. I believe the smoke I saw came from the left rear speaker. When I tested it with a meter it went to zero Ohms, so that speaker is shot. I don't know why there would be smoke when a speaker blows out, I've never experienced it first hand before. Eveything else is fine. I acctually think that it works now. I played it last night and the only problems were no left rear speaker and a little bit of fryed electronics smell. I sniffed around a bit but couldn't find it. The trunk smellled fine but the interior smelled. |
#4
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Ford Taurus Multiple amps CRAZY setup
I tried using a relay to turn it all on. but the relay wasn't getting
enough power. A friend mentioned a solid state relay, maybe that will work. "Typical" solid state relays generally have input impedances of between 1k and 10k ohms. The relay I'm suggesting from radio shack has an input impedance of 400 ohms. That should be fine. I'm thinking you may have tried one of the larger radio shack relays or bosch relays where the input impedance is under 100 ohms. The buttons in the front of the car are just that: Buttons. The accual reciever is located in the trunk. I have a 1997 Ford Taurus LX. The unit in the back has a small bar code with no numbers on it and "JBL" written across it. Ah, I see. I've done installations in Probes that had a powered JBL system in it in which case I've just replaced everything. That may not be the route you want to go in, huh? I believe the smoke I saw came from the left rear speaker. When I tested it with a meter it went to zero Ohms, so that speaker is shot. I don't know why there would be smoke when a speaker blows out, I've never experienced it first hand before. Well, consider that a speaker often blows by melting of the solvents/laquers/adhesives and sometimes the vc itself. That'll make some smoke, but I'm still surprised you saw some. |
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