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Default 1999 Toyota Sienna Door Panels amplifier grommet install gromet

Reposting information: This is what I found out from a very helpful member
of the forum.

Toyota Sienna Door Panels amplifier grommet install gromet

There are snaps that run along the bottom of the door, which just pop out.
BUT, before you do that, remove the armrest top section which will reveal
screws. There is also a screw behind a trim piece (size of a nickel) that is
on the mid to upper left side of the door (looking at it from inside,
passenger door). The armrest top is a little tricky to pop out, just be
careful not to break the snaps holding it in place. Once you have all the
snaps off and screws out, just lift and separate the panel from the window
sill and disconnect the courtesy light and window/door wiring.

There are also screws in the door opener that need to be removed, including
the door opener housing as well. I believe you have to pull the assembly
forward (to the front of the vehicle) to release it from the snap that is
holding it in.

The piece I'm talking about for the armrest is farther back than that switch
panel, it's the door handle I guess (the part that your arm rests on with
the slot for your hand) It's a two piece unit, but doesn't really look like
it. The seam that runs along it is where you want to pry up on. I think I
used a wide flatblade, just to minimize any indentations. Once that top
piece is pryed off, there are two screws which will be obvious. Like I
mentioned, after that comes the screw hidden behind the nickel sized trim
piece, then the screw & housing holding the door opener/lock. Then pop the
fasteners around the lower perimeter of the door, disconnect all the wiring
etc, then lift up on the door, then out, voila.

Just to let you know, I've had two installations of the same model speaker
in the front doors, one with mounting the speaks directly to the metal, and
now with a trim plate made of MDF then speaks mounted to that (with weather
stripping between the speak & MDF, and between the MDF and the door). It
made a world of difference in sound, more fuller, less tinny, a little
better bass response as well.

As for the panels on the front doors, I don't think they're removable IIRC,
it's molded as part of the door. The rear mid panels are easy to get out,
just pry them off. As for Dynamatting, i haven't done any on my Sienna, but
if I do, it would be to the metal directly behind those mid panels, and on
the plastic housing if possible.
The rear hatch door would probably be a good option as well, that's actually
the only part of the interior I haven't taken apart.
Oddly enough, the main thing that rattles outside my van is the plastic
panels over where the sliding side doors hinge slides through. I haven't had
any rattles inside, I think becuase of the decent soundproofing of this van.

As for the power wire, mine was 4 gauge and I ran it through a rather large
grommet on the pass side. If you go this route, the grommet is located left
of the intake manifold (aluminum piping structure, top-rear of the engine)
which a large crinkly rubber wiring conduit runs into. It ends up in the
cabin just at the top of where the carpet hinge is, you could probably run
it to either side of the vehicle at this point, I guess. I then just let it
drape over the intake manifold (doesn't get hot) and snake it back the
battery.

My sub is also dual voice coil and I'm running it off of two 300W Orion amps
which i have mounted on some MDF under the second row seats. Mine is the
bench version, sounds like you have the buckets. When you get the power to
the second seat area, you'll see that it's quite east to cut the big chunk
of foam they have under the door sill , and partially under the carpet, to
allow your power wire through. I ran mine out of where the seats anchor,
just making sure that it won't get pinched when the seats are in. I have my
amp for the fronts (older Alpine 40wx4, bridged into 120Wx2) mounted to a
piece of MDF (which is screwed to the floor) under the drivers seat, it JUST
clears the seat mechanisms :-)

I reused the factory wiring, just because I don't have components.

I don't know if you've had a system in this particular van before, but it's
pretty amazing how much bass response is increased by corner loading the
box, as opposed to even just leaving it in the middle of the back hatch.

I forgot to mention, you may have some difficulty running RCA's, power and
such through the pillars beside the pass and driver side seats (to get into
the rear door sill area) You can pop up (not off) the pillar trim piece, to
get alittle more room and light, but I actually found this to be the hardest
part of the whole install.

the panels that I said were rattling, they are on the outside, but I was
just making the point that they seem to be the only part on the van that
rattles.
If you're talking about the where the speakers go in the front door (the
grill part), it's part of the door.

As for interference with the speaker wires, I have never had a problem with
the 12V interfering with the amplified signal. And I don't have even the
slightest amount of engine whine, or any noise for that matter. This is the
first vehicle where I've never had to eliminate at least SOME noise.
As for the grommet, you'll have to cut a small hole I think in it to get the
wire in, as far as I can tell, that's what I did.
If you take the front seat out (easy, four bolts as long as they're not
rusted :-), it's pretty easy to snake the wiring under the carpet. I ran all
of my power through the door sills, then cut over to the amps.


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