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1999 Toyota Sienna Door Panels amplifier grommet install gromet
Reposting information: This is what I found out from a very helpful member
of the forum. Toyota Sienna Door Panels amplifier grommet install gromet There are snaps that run along the bottom of the door, which just pop out. BUT, before you do that, remove the armrest top section which will reveal screws. There is also a screw behind a trim piece (size of a nickel) that is on the mid to upper left side of the door (looking at it from inside, passenger door). The armrest top is a little tricky to pop out, just be careful not to break the snaps holding it in place. Once you have all the snaps off and screws out, just lift and separate the panel from the window sill and disconnect the courtesy light and window/door wiring. There are also screws in the door opener that need to be removed, including the door opener housing as well. I believe you have to pull the assembly forward (to the front of the vehicle) to release it from the snap that is holding it in. The piece I'm talking about for the armrest is farther back than that switch panel, it's the door handle I guess (the part that your arm rests on with the slot for your hand) It's a two piece unit, but doesn't really look like it. The seam that runs along it is where you want to pry up on. I think I used a wide flatblade, just to minimize any indentations. Once that top piece is pryed off, there are two screws which will be obvious. Like I mentioned, after that comes the screw hidden behind the nickel sized trim piece, then the screw & housing holding the door opener/lock. Then pop the fasteners around the lower perimeter of the door, disconnect all the wiring etc, then lift up on the door, then out, voila. Just to let you know, I've had two installations of the same model speaker in the front doors, one with mounting the speaks directly to the metal, and now with a trim plate made of MDF then speaks mounted to that (with weather stripping between the speak & MDF, and between the MDF and the door). It made a world of difference in sound, more fuller, less tinny, a little better bass response as well. As for the panels on the front doors, I don't think they're removable IIRC, it's molded as part of the door. The rear mid panels are easy to get out, just pry them off. As for Dynamatting, i haven't done any on my Sienna, but if I do, it would be to the metal directly behind those mid panels, and on the plastic housing if possible. The rear hatch door would probably be a good option as well, that's actually the only part of the interior I haven't taken apart. Oddly enough, the main thing that rattles outside my van is the plastic panels over where the sliding side doors hinge slides through. I haven't had any rattles inside, I think becuase of the decent soundproofing of this van. As for the power wire, mine was 4 gauge and I ran it through a rather large grommet on the pass side. If you go this route, the grommet is located left of the intake manifold (aluminum piping structure, top-rear of the engine) which a large crinkly rubber wiring conduit runs into. It ends up in the cabin just at the top of where the carpet hinge is, you could probably run it to either side of the vehicle at this point, I guess. I then just let it drape over the intake manifold (doesn't get hot) and snake it back the battery. My sub is also dual voice coil and I'm running it off of two 300W Orion amps which i have mounted on some MDF under the second row seats. Mine is the bench version, sounds like you have the buckets. When you get the power to the second seat area, you'll see that it's quite east to cut the big chunk of foam they have under the door sill , and partially under the carpet, to allow your power wire through. I ran mine out of where the seats anchor, just making sure that it won't get pinched when the seats are in. I have my amp for the fronts (older Alpine 40wx4, bridged into 120Wx2) mounted to a piece of MDF (which is screwed to the floor) under the drivers seat, it JUST clears the seat mechanisms :-) I reused the factory wiring, just because I don't have components. I don't know if you've had a system in this particular van before, but it's pretty amazing how much bass response is increased by corner loading the box, as opposed to even just leaving it in the middle of the back hatch. I forgot to mention, you may have some difficulty running RCA's, power and such through the pillars beside the pass and driver side seats (to get into the rear door sill area) You can pop up (not off) the pillar trim piece, to get alittle more room and light, but I actually found this to be the hardest part of the whole install. the panels that I said were rattling, they are on the outside, but I was just making the point that they seem to be the only part on the van that rattles. If you're talking about the where the speakers go in the front door (the grill part), it's part of the door. As for interference with the speaker wires, I have never had a problem with the 12V interfering with the amplified signal. And I don't have even the slightest amount of engine whine, or any noise for that matter. This is the first vehicle where I've never had to eliminate at least SOME noise. As for the grommet, you'll have to cut a small hole I think in it to get the wire in, as far as I can tell, that's what I did. If you take the front seat out (easy, four bolts as long as they're not rusted :-), it's pretty easy to snake the wiring under the carpet. I ran all of my power through the door sills, then cut over to the amps. |
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