I am considering replacing my two aging 12" JL subwoofers and I am looking
to go with two 15" subs for greater output.

I have been doing a lot of shopping on Ebay lately and, prima fascia, those
massive Lanzar and Pyle subs APPEAR to be an excellent deal. For $80-$100,
you can get two brand new 15" subs with massive magnet structures, large
rubber surrounds, 2.5" dual voice coils, high sensitivity, the works. Now
my mother always taught me "you get what you pay for", so what's the catch
here? They seem like such a better deal than JL, Kicker, Rockford, even
Sony.

Does anybody have one of these kind of subs? How does it work? How does it
sound? I low-pass my subs over at 63Hz so they need only play the lowest
octaves, and given the choice, I would rather have maximum output vs. SQ.
I like my bass LOW and LOUD!

MOSFET
Thanks,

MOSFET

In article ,
"MOSFET" wrote:

I am considering replacing my two aging 12" JL subwoofers and I am looking
to go with two 15" subs for greater output.

I have been doing a lot of shopping on Ebay lately and, prima fascia, those
massive Lanzar and Pyle subs APPEAR to be an excellent deal. For $80-$100,
you can get two brand new 15" subs with massive magnet structures, large
rubber surrounds, 2.5" dual voice coils, high sensitivity, the works. Now
my mother always taught me "you get what you pay for", so what's the catch
here? They seem like such a better deal than JL, Kicker, Rockford, even
Sony.

Does anybody have one of these kind of subs? How does it work? How does it
sound? I low-pass my subs over at 63Hz so they need only play the lowest
octaves, and given the choice, I would rather have maximum output vs. SQ.
I like my bass LOW and LOUD!

MOSFET
Thanks,

MOSFET



IME The cheapo subs have a very limited frequency response. But do, like
you said, have all the features of properly designed subs. Only not
implemented properly.

IMO Go with your budget. Just remember you may be out the little amount
of money you put for the cheap stuff instead of using that to save for
name brand (or lack thereof) drivers.

--
Cyrus

*coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough*

I've had crappy subs before (my first purchase in car audio was a box with
2 - 10" speakers for under 100 bucks shipped, thought it was a great deal)
it boasted large magnets and ported enclosure and blah blah blah... but WOW,
were they ****ty..... I ended up changing them out for some polks that
sounded MUCH better (bought them off ebay too ussed, were pretty cheap. I
say if your looking for something like that, try getting something used off
ebay, will probably spend a little mroe, but it will be worth it because
most likely your going to want to replace the crappy subs anyway. just my
..02

-Nick

If you have the money, I think you should try it. I mean, the worst that
could happen is that you don't like them and you're out a little money and
whatever time in labor that it takes you build a box, install them, etc.
And the big plus here, is that we all get to learn by your experience...good
or bad!!

One point to make. Have you ran the TS parameters to see what kind of box
you'll need to make for them? I'm not sure if this is true, but many years
ago I seem to recall that one of the big differences between the expensive
subs and the really cheap ones were the size of the box they needed to go
in. I could be completely wrong though. It would suck to buy a 15" el
cheapo sub and then learn you have to make a 6 cu ft box for it!

Tony


--
2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition
Clarion DRZ9255 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and Xenon X1200.1
Amplifiers, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and Focal 130HCs For Rear
Fill, Image Dynamics IDMAX10 D4 v.3 Sub

2001 Chevy S10 ZR2
Pioneer DEH-P9600MP Head Unit, Phoenix Gold Ti500.4 Amp, Focal 165HC
Speakers & Image Dynamics ID8 D4 v.3 Sub

This is all good advice. Thanks guys.

MOSFET

i had a pyle sub before it was a 10" it seemed a kool deal but it was
all lies i tell u lies they destorted like a vacume cleaner and wore
out fast and i never played them any where near there recomended power
or frekz they were total (@#$@#$) trust me use them bux on a desent
brand name you will enjoy the money spent.

i ant sure where youse are from but i am from Australia sony is cheap
and ok stuff .
if i had a cheap budget i would probly nab them sony 14" / 15" whatever
they are they would balisticate pyle or them other cheap ebay brands.

oh and in case your wondering i have 3x 18" Resonant Engineering SX
subwoofers and they literaly kill your ears they sell for AU$800 each

OK Tony, you're going to get your wish...

I "accidentilly" bought two brand new 15" Audio X subwoofers on Ebay. I say
accidentally because the starting bid was $25 (for two) and so I bid, not
really thinking I would win, well I did. I did some research on the net and
apparently Audio X is more poplular in Germany where these particular subs
sell for $70-$90 (60,00-80,00 EUR). Now I have to build (or buy) a box to
try them. For $25 I'm not expecting much, but maybe I'll be pleasantly
surprised.

MOSFET

thats awsome maybe ill dig out some sparkomatic subs i got.we.ll blast
out.LOL
idiot.
Actually those sparkomatics wasnt that bad.

LOL Who needs JL, Alpine, RE, Kicker subs, when you got sparkomatic subs. They
are the best. When I hook up my learjet or MEI amp to them look out, they will
smoke out any car.


In article ,
(bob wald) wrote:
thats awsome maybe ill dig out some sparkomatic subs i got.we.ll blast
out.LOL
idiot.
Actually those sparkomatics wasnt that bad.

"OK Tony, you're going to get your wish..."

Way cool! I can't wait to hear about the results!!

Tony



--
2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition
Clarion DRZ9255 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and Xenon X1200.1
Amplifiers, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and Focal 130HCs For Rear
Fill, Image Dynamics IDMAX10 D4 v.3 Sub

2001 Chevy S10 ZR2
Pioneer DEH-P9600MP Head Unit, Phoenix Gold Ti500.4 Amp, Focal 165HC
Speakers & Image Dynamics ID8 D4 v.3 Sub

That reminds me of this one girl I know who has Baja subs in her
car...they sound like aluminum cans in the back!

With modern technology and manufacturing processes, a lot of the cheap
subs are becoming better and better. Main things to look for: bigger
magnet and surrounds don't mean they sound better or will handle more
power. Quality control and warranties is probably the biggest thing.
With those subs you got, you might actually be pleased with the result
if you build a box to suit them.

Brandonb

MOSFET wrote:
I am considering replacing my two aging 12" JL subwoofers and I am looking
to go with two 15" subs for greater output.

I have been doing a lot of shopping on Ebay lately and, prima fascia, those
massive Lanzar and Pyle subs APPEAR to be an excellent deal. For $80-$100,
you can get two brand new 15" subs with massive magnet structures, large
rubber surrounds, 2.5" dual voice coils, high sensitivity, the works. Now
my mother always taught me "you get what you pay for", so what's the catch
here? They seem like such a better deal than JL, Kicker, Rockford, even
Sony.

Does anybody have one of these kind of subs? How does it work? How does it
sound? I low-pass my subs over at 63Hz so they need only play the lowest
octaves, and given the choice, I would rather have maximum output vs. SQ.
I like my bass LOW and LOUD!

MOSFET
Thanks,

MOSFET

I've thought many a time about buying a bunch of the cheapest 12" subs I
could find off ebay (like 16 of them) and putting them in a giant "wall"
enclosure in a vehicle and see how it does at some local shop's soundoff
for the hell of it. I've got 2 DEI 1100D amps, and with around 60WRMS
rated on those subs should be able to power them well. You can get 16
4-ohm subs down to a 1-ohm final load easily . At one point I figured
I'd spend about $180 for the subs, plus a couple sheets of MDF and
silicone and screws. Heck, still cheaper than so-called "competition" subs.

Brandonb


MOSFET wrote:
OK Tony, you're going to get your wish...

I "accidentilly" bought two brand new 15" Audio X subwoofers on Ebay. I say
accidentally because the starting bid was $25 (for two) and so I bid, not
really thinking I would win, well I did. I did some research on the net and
apparently Audio X is more poplular in Germany where these particular subs
sell for $70-$90 (60,00-80,00 EUR). Now I have to build (or buy) a box to
try them. For $25 I'm not expecting much, but maybe I'll be pleasantly
surprised.

MOSFET

Yes, there are a couple of things that got me thinking about the "cheaper
sub" approach. First, I have always been impressed at JL and in particular
their W0 line and just how much volume can be produced by a relatively small
motor structure (the 12W0 has a 30 oz, magnet and 1.5" voice coil). So I
realize that magnet size is not the end-all-be-all. I have a lot of room to
work with in my car, bassically the whole back-end of a Suburu Forester.
And I have a Soundstream Reference 700 that can handle very low impedence
loads (1 ohm bridged). So my idea was instead of trying two high-quality
12" subs, I would try two or three 15" subs or three or four12" subs of
modest quality. In fact, as my amp can only put out 700 watts RMS it would
be silly to buy two monster subs (1,000 watt models). The 15" subs I bought
can handle 350 watts RMS (700 watts max), so this THEORETICALLY should be
perfect. And the efficency of these subs is much better than most 12's. Of
course, the fear is that these subs are built poorly, and sound terrible.
WE shall see!!

MOSFET

In article ,
Brandonb wrote:

I've thought many a time about buying a bunch of the cheapest 12" subs I
could find off ebay (like 16 of them) and putting them in a giant "wall"
enclosure in a vehicle and see how it does at some local shop's soundoff
for the hell of it. I've got 2 DEI 1100D amps, and with around 60WRMS
rated on those subs should be able to power them well. You can get 16
4-ohm subs down to a 1-ohm final load easily . At one point I figured
I'd spend about $180 for the subs, plus a couple sheets of MDF and
silicone and screws. Heck, still cheaper than so-called "competition" subs.

Brandonb


It would put alot of setups to shame. Arrays of drivers lower
distortion, raise sensitivity and move tons of air.

Within reason of course. Cheaper subs usually have odd specs when
related to Xmax, Qts, Le and Vas. As well as QC issues. YMMV.

Where the hell would one install 16 12" drivers?! lol I'd prolly pitch
in half just to see the monstrosity.

--
Cyrus

*coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough*

In article ,
says...

Where the hell would one install 16 12" drivers?! lol I'd prolly pitch
in half just to see the monstrosity.

Probably either as one single wall across the back of a van, or 2 walls
of 8 subs facing each other along the insides, running the length.
--
Carl Robson
Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

i would go pyle subs...believe it or not.but once pyle was a leading
sub maker.....i remember the pyle drivers....lol
go pyle...king once more....

Shush you.

Brandonb


Branden Nelsen wrote:
Oh! God please don't. Brandon might actually DO it if he's not fronting all
the cash, and that means that im going to have to help build that
monstrosity! lol

-Brandenn


"Cyrus" wrote in message
...

In article ,
Brandonb wrote:


I've thought many a time about buying a bunch of the cheapest 12" subs I
could find off ebay (like 16 of them) and putting them in a giant "wall"
enclosure in a vehicle and see how it does at some local shop's soundoff
for the hell of it. I've got 2 DEI 1100D amps, and with around 60WRMS
rated on those subs should be able to power them well. You can get 16
4-ohm subs down to a 1-ohm final load easily . At one point I figured
I'd spend about $180 for the subs, plus a couple sheets of MDF and
silicone and screws. Heck, still cheaper than so-called "competition"
subs.

Brandonb


It would put alot of setups to shame. Arrays of drivers lower
distortion, raise sensitivity and move tons of air.

Within reason of course. Cheaper subs usually have odd specs when
related to Xmax, Qts, Le and Vas. As well as QC issues. YMMV.

Where the hell would one install 16 12" drivers?! lol I'd prolly pitch
in half just to see the monstrosity.

--
Cyrus

*coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough*

Cyrus wrote:

It would put alot of setups to shame. Arrays of drivers lower
distortion, raise sensitivity and move tons of air.

Within reason of course. Cheaper subs usually have odd specs when
related to Xmax, Qts, Le and Vas. As well as QC issues. YMMV.

Where the hell would one install 16 12" drivers?! lol I'd prolly pitch
in half just to see the monstrosity.


I mainly thought about it when I had my Tahoe, which had plenty of room.
I could easily have done a wall with 4 subs up and down and 4 subs
across. Actually, I could have done 5 across if I wanted. My current
Jeep GC doesn't afford as much room, and its much nicer, so I probably
wouldn't want to do it at this point unless I had a different vehicle.

Brandonb
- hmm... my roommate just bought an old beater full size Bronco...

I think the consensus here is that when it comes to subwoofers, quantitiy is
more important than quality. In other words, it is pretty much universally
true that three $100 subs will blow away a single $300 sub. Efficency gains
due to greater cone area being the main factor here. Of course, there are
some truely awfull subwoofers out there that will perform poorly no watter
what, but all things being equall, this rule applies.

MOSFET

I mainly wanted to do it to showup with a bunch of cheap no-name subs,
like Radio Shack specials, paper cones, thin foam surrounds, small
magnet, stamped basket, etc and just blow away the competition after
they laughed for a good long while. And spend a franction of the cost.

Brandonb


MOSFET wrote:
I think the consensus here is that when it comes to subwoofers, quantitiy is
more important than quality. In other words, it is pretty much universally
true that three $100 subs will blow away a single $300 sub. Efficency gains
due to greater cone area being the main factor here. Of course, there are
some truely awfull subwoofers out there that will perform poorly no watter
what, but all things being equall, this rule applies.

MOSFET

But what you are missing is the fact that those 3 $100 subs will need a big
enough box to fit 6 $300 a pop subs . This is what put JL on the map back in
the day. Now when it comes to cone area vs space, you do the math.


In article , "MOSFET"
wrote:
I think the consensus here is that when it comes to subwoofers, quantitiy is
more important than quality. In other words, it is pretty much universally
true that three $100 subs will blow away a single $300 sub. Efficency gains
due to greater cone area being the main factor here. Of course, there are
some truely awfull subwoofers out there that will perform poorly no watter
what, but all things being equall, this rule applies.

MOSFET

In article ,
(Captain Howdy) wrote:

But what you are missing is the fact that those 3 $100 subs will need a big
enough box to fit 6 $300 a pop subs .

Depends on the T/S measurements, and accuracy of said measurements. IMO
Thats one of the major problems with cheap drivers.

This is what put JL on the map back in
the day. Now when it comes to cone area vs space, you do the math.


In article , "MOSFET"
wrote:
I think the consensus here is that when it comes to subwoofers, quantitiy is
more important than quality. In other words, it is pretty much universally
true that three $100 subs will blow away a single $300 sub. Efficency gains
due to greater cone area being the main factor here. Of course, there are
some truely awfull subwoofers out there that will perform poorly no watter
what, but all things being equall, this rule applies.

MOSFET



--
Cyrus

*coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough*

In article ,
Brandonb wrote:

Cyrus wrote:

It would put alot of setups to shame. Arrays of drivers lower
distortion, raise sensitivity and move tons of air.

Within reason of course. Cheaper subs usually have odd specs when
related to Xmax, Qts, Le and Vas. As well as QC issues. YMMV.

Where the hell would one install 16 12" drivers?! lol I'd prolly pitch
in half just to see the monstrosity.


I mainly thought about it when I had my Tahoe, which had plenty of room.
I could easily have done a wall with 4 subs up and down and 4 subs
across. Actually, I could have done 5 across if I wanted. My current
Jeep GC doesn't afford as much room, and its much nicer, so I probably
wouldn't want to do it at this point unless I had a different vehicle.

Brandonb
- hmm... my roommate just bought an old beater full size Bronco...

haha Walled vehicles make me chuckle for some reason.

One would also need (IMO) at the least 4 competently designed component
sets to somewhat even out the madness.

1 of each of those is enough for my s10, sub/comp set. Although not the
cheapest or most expensive, I'm diggin the new Arsenal12.

--
Cyrus

*coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough*

Now when it comes to cone area vs space, you do the math.

Yes, but space is FREE, cone area costs money. That was my point.
Obviously if space is limited, the more expensive sub may be your best
option. But if space is plentiful, then the multiple cheap sub plan is
better than the single expensive sub plan.

MOSFET

Cyrus wrote:

haha Walled vehicles make me chuckle for some reason.

One would also need (IMO) at the least 4 competently designed component
sets to somewhat even out the madness.

1 of each of those is enough for my s10, sub/comp set. Although not the
cheapest or most expensive, I'm diggin the new Arsenal12.


Oh hell no. Not in a low-budget ghetto beater like that. lots and lots
of tweeters man! No midbass whatsoever! Can't even carpet the box. paint
it primer or just plain (partical board) wood. If you're gonna do it,
gotta go all out. Maybe even exposed wiring and not mounting down the amps.

Brandonb

Space is free? Every car that I have seen had limited space, some more then
others. With this said you will always fit more cone area in any limited
space"car or bus" if the one of two subs of the sames size requires a smaller
box, and the subs that tend to use smaller boxes are often more costly.


In article , "MOSFET"
wrote:
Now when it comes to cone area vs space, you do the math.

Yes, but space is FREE, cone area costs money. That was my point.
Obviously if space is limited, the more expensive sub may be your best
option. But if space is plentiful, then the multiple cheap sub plan is
better than the single expensive sub plan.

MOSFET

Carpet and paint wont do anything for sq or spl.

Oh hell no. Not in a low-budget ghetto beater like that. lots and lots
of tweeters man! No midbass whatsoever! Can't even carpet the box. paint
it primer or just plain (partical board) wood. If you're gonna do it,
gotta go all out. Maybe even exposed wiring and not mounting down the amps.

Brandonb

You wanna talk CHEAP? When I was a teenager, my best friend and I had this
wonderful idea. We took a 15" Radio Shack woofer and one of the those
large, heavy-cardboard cylinders (I think they used them to pour concrete or
something like that). Anyway, it was about 15" in diameter.... Yep, we
duct-taped that sucker right to the top of the cylinder, and used a piece of
wood along the bottom and made our very own ghetto-bazooka tube! You
woudn't believe how LOUD that sucker was!!! Oh man...I haven't thought
about that for YEARS!!!! LOL

Tony


--
2001 Nissan Maxima SE Anniversary Edition
Clarion DRZ9255 Head Unit, Phoenix Gold ZX475ti, ZX450 and Xenon X1200.1
Amplifiers, Dynaudio System 360 Tri-Amped In Front and Focal 130HCs For Rear
Fill, Image Dynamics IDMAX10 D4 v.3 Sub

2001 Chevy S10 ZR2
Pioneer DEH-P9600MP Head Unit, Phoenix Gold Ti500.4 Amp, Focal 165HC
Speakers & Image Dynamics ID8 D4 v.3 Sub

it primer or just plain (partical board) wood. If you're gonna do it,
gotta go all out. Maybe even exposed wiring and not mounting down the
amps.

Brandonb

Hell yeh, man!!!! I got 8 15" subs driven by an EQ/booster and two
dual-cone speakers sitting on the floor of my ride!! It rocks!!!!!!!!

MOSFET

In article ,
"Tony F" wrote:

You wanna talk CHEAP? When I was a teenager, my best friend and I had this
wonderful idea. We took a 15" Radio Shack woofer and one of the those
large, heavy-cardboard cylinders (I think they used them to pour concrete or
something like that). Anyway, it was about 15" in diameter.... Yep, we
duct-taped that sucker right to the top of the cylinder, and used a piece of
wood along the bottom and made our very own ghetto-bazooka tube! You
woudn't believe how LOUD that sucker was!!! Oh man...I haven't thought
about that for YEARS!!!! LOL

Tony

Hah

You wouldn't believe how many there are with Sonotube subs in their
house. Most look like in room water heaters.

http://images.google.com/images?hl=e...r&btnG=Google+
Search&sa=N&tab=wi

--
Cyrus

*coughcasaucedoprodigynetcough*

As the roommate in question - I will gladdly volunteer the use of the
Bronco for this project.

and Nelsen you know you miss the quality time wasted in my garage, lol

"MOSFET" wrote in
:

I am considering replacing my two aging 12" JL subwoofers and I am
looking to go with two 15" subs for greater output.

I have been doing a lot of shopping on Ebay lately and, prima fascia,
those massive Lanzar and Pyle subs APPEAR to be an excellent deal.
For $80-$100, you can get two brand new 15" subs with massive magnet
structures, large rubber surrounds, 2.5" dual voice coils, high
sensitivity, the works. Now my mother always taught me "you get what
you pay for", so what's the catch here? They seem like such a better
deal than JL, Kicker, Rockford, even Sony.

Does anybody have one of these kind of subs? How does it work? How
does it sound? I low-pass my subs over at 63Hz so they need only play
the lowest octaves, and given the choice, I would rather have maximum
output vs. SQ. I like my bass LOW and LOUD!

MOSFET
Thanks,

MOSFET




IMO if you want cheap subs that sound good look at Ultralinear. They
have 12's and 15's with SVC and DVC configs for cheap that have
excellent frequency response.

I forked over a few hundred for two Audiobahns and a BOSS ripper not too
long ago. The BOSS amp really worked out well and is now one of my
favorite amps, but the Audiobahns just sounded like **** no matter what
I paired them with. Frequency response was **** and I've heard 6x9's
that nearly dropped harder than they did.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...turtle/sub.jpg

I've had a few Pyle and Pyramid amps also. I couldn't stand most of the
Pyle or Pyramid amps, but the Pyramid Super Blue was decent because it
had enough power for smaller 5 1/2'' speakers and adjustable
bass/treble. The Pyramid Crystal amp paired with two 4-way Soundstorm
6x9's sounds incredible. I got a lot of comments from people on the
clarity and response from that cheap amp/speaker combo.

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