I just installed my Hifonics ZX8000 5 channel amp, and a single IDQ 10 in my
trunk. When I was back messing with the settings, I noticed the protection
light was kinda blinking on and off. Never really stayed on all the way. This
is the first amp I've owned that has a protection light, so I've never really
known if something was wrong unless it stopped working. What can cause this
light to turn on? I am running my Direct Audio S650 components on the two
front channels, I'm not using the rear channels at all right now, and the IDQ
is wired at 2 Ohm mono on the sub channel. I don't see any problems there.. at
least not with the load. So what else could cause this? Bad ground maybe?
Speaker wires shorting inside the sub enclosure, or something along those
lines? Any ideas?

Nick

Not sure about that amp but usually protection LEDs indicate impedence
load, thermal, or speaker shorts.

Is the subwoofer channel stable into 2 ohms bridged ? Double check that
via the manual or hifonics tech support. Not sure why its flickering
though. That makes me think its the speaker wires shorting to each
other intermittently. Double check your all your speaker wiring and
ground, make sure there are no shorts. I use a dremel and grind off all
the chassis paint under the amps ground bolt tu ensure a good ground.

Hope this helps.. IMHO those are all solid components.

Garrett

TheBIessedDead wrote:

I just installed my Hifonics ZX8000 5 channel amp, and a single IDQ 10 in my
trunk. When I was back messing with the settings, I noticed the protection
light was kinda blinking on and off. Never really stayed on all the way. This
is the first amp I've owned that has a protection light, so I've never really
known if something was wrong unless it stopped working. What can cause this
light to turn on? I am running my Direct Audio S650 components on the two
front channels, I'm not using the rear channels at all right now, and the IDQ
is wired at 2 Ohm mono on the sub channel. I don't see any problems there.. at
least not with the load. So what else could cause this? Bad ground maybe?
Speaker wires shorting inside the sub enclosure, or something along those
lines? Any ideas?

Nick

Not sure about that amp but usually protection LEDs indicate impedence
load, thermal, or speaker shorts.

Is the subwoofer channel stable into 2 ohms bridged ? Double check that
via the manual or hifonics tech support. Not sure why its flickering

Thanks for the suggestions Garret. The manual says that the amp can handle a 2
ohm load, so I don't think that is it. I'm thinking perhaps the speaker wires
in the box might be shorting, as my brother doesn't have any connectors or
anything, I just found out that he simplye wrapped the wires around the
terminals on the sub. I'm going to take the sub out and check that now. The
other thing I'm going to check is my ground. I removed the distro block I had,
and the 8 gauge wire running from it... (I'm no longer going to be running 2
amps), and ran the 4 gauge power wire straight to the amp... I'm also going to
replace my 8 gauge ground with 4...(Not sure why I used 8 at the time since I
have a 4 gauge ground wire...). Anyway...


One other thing... When I turn the volume up just slightly above my normal
listening level, the front speakers sort of cut out when the bass hits. Now
I'm really thinking its some sort of a short... maybe the wires are touching or
something when the bass hits. I'll check it out.

Nick

Thanks for the suggestions Garret. The manual says that the amp can
handle a 2
ohm load, so I don't think that is it. I'm thinking perhaps the speaker
wires
in the box might be shorting, as my brother doesn't have any connectors or
anything, I just found out that he simplye wrapped the wires around the
terminals on the sub. I'm going to take the sub out and check that now.
The
other thing I'm going to check is my ground. I removed the distro block I
had,
and the 8 gauge wire running from it... (I'm no longer going to be running
2
amps), and ran the 4 gauge power wire straight to the amp... I'm also
going to
replace my 8 gauge ground with 4...(Not sure why I used 8 at the time
since I
have a 4 gauge ground wire...). Anyway...

Is the light coming on at all power levels?

One other thing... When I turn the volume up just slightly above my normal
listening level, the front speakers sort of cut out when the bass hits.
Now
I'm really thinking its some sort of a short... maybe the wires are
touching or
something when the bass hits. I'll check it out.

Is it doing this when the sub isn't playing? Tell us what it sounds like
with the sub unhooked.

Sounds fishy in that sub box... definitely look into that. Subs create
a lot of vibration and those wires can short if there is not a solid
connection in there.
Follow marks advice for troubleshooting the front speakers. Disconnect
the sub and crank it and see if they continue to cut out.
\
Garrett

TheBIessedDead wrote:

Not sure about that amp but usually protection LEDs indicate impedence
load, thermal, or speaker shorts.

Is the subwoofer channel stable into 2 ohms bridged ? Double check that
via the manual or hifonics tech support. Not sure why its flickering



Thanks for the suggestions Garret. The manual says that the amp can handle a 2
ohm load, so I don't think that is it. I'm thinking perhaps the speaker wires
in the box might be shorting, as my brother doesn't have any connectors or
anything, I just found out that he simplye wrapped the wires around the
terminals on the sub. I'm going to take the sub out and check that now. The
other thing I'm going to check is my ground. I removed the distro block I had,
and the 8 gauge wire running from it... (I'm no longer going to be running 2
amps), and ran the 4 gauge power wire straight to the amp... I'm also going to
replace my 8 gauge ground with 4...(Not sure why I used 8 at the time since I
have a 4 gauge ground wire...). Anyway...


One other thing... When I turn the volume up just slightly above my normal
listening level, the front speakers sort of cut out when the bass hits. Now
I'm really thinking its some sort of a short... maybe the wires are touching or
something when the bass hits. I'll check it out.

Nick

Is the light coming on at all power levels?

It was, yeah. I checked the ground saw that the screw was loose, so I ran a
new 4 gauge ground wire, and secured all the wires inside the box with female
connectors....I'm not sure which was the problem, but that fixed it. Now the
light doesn't come on at all, and the speakers sound find. I'm thinking it
might have been the ground, since the screw was so loose. The speaker wires
while not exactly installed properly, were secure.

Anyhow, how can I secure my damn ground better? I bought the biggest short
sheet metal screws at the hardware store, and they still don't seem to really
bite down. I tighten it, and then it just spins and spins. Any suggestions
for a better way? I don't see a way to use an actual bolt, since I couldn't
get underneath the metal to put the nut on.

Nick

HOLY CRAP, I had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM with the EXACT SAME AMP. I
think theres an internal short in the amp that screws things up. Mine
got worse and worse untill the music cut out so much you couldn't tell
what was playing. Use a voltmeter and test the voltage at the power
terminals. People insisted that i didn't have something connected
right, but i was sure i did, and this confirms it! I think this amp
has an inherint problem. I sent mine back for warrenty repairs (cost
me $10 shipping, and won't be back for 6 weeks!) Sucks majorly. Good
luck![flame]


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Is the light coming on at all power levels?

It was, yeah. I checked the ground saw that the screw was loose, so I
ran a
new 4 gauge ground wire, and secured all the wires inside the box with
female
connectors....I'm not sure which was the problem, but that fixed it. Now
the
light doesn't come on at all, and the speakers sound find. I'm thinking
it
might have been the ground, since the screw was so loose. The speaker
wires
while not exactly installed properly, were secure.

Anyhow, how can I secure my damn ground better? I bought the biggest
short
sheet metal screws at the hardware store, and they still don't seem to
really
bite down. I tighten it, and then it just spins and spins. Any
suggestions
for a better way? I don't see a way to use an actual bolt, since I
couldn't
get underneath the metal to put the nut on.

What are you grounding to?

HOLY CRAP, I had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM with the EXACT SAME AMP. I
think theres an internal short in the amp that screws things up. Mine
got worse and worse untill the music cut out so much you couldn't tell
what was playing. Use a voltmeter and test the voltage at the power
terminals. People insisted that i didn't have something connected
right, but i was sure i did, and this confirms it! I think this amp
has an inherint problem. I sent mine back for warrenty repairs (cost
me $10 shipping, and won't be back for 6 weeks!) Sucks majorly. Good
luck![flame]

2 situations means that there's an inherent problem with the amp?

I try to use an existing chassis bolt, preferably one that bolts to a
subframe or structureal chassis member. Seat belt ancor bolts and seat
bolts work very well IMHO. They almost always thread into a weld nut
thats welded to the frame/unibody structure. If thats not available,
then an existing ground bolt may work. Use a file, sand paper or a
dremel and grind away any paint or undercoating from the sheetmetal,
that way the ground cable terminal makes electrical contact to the
chassis, and the bolt merely provides the clamp pressure.

Use a socket/ratchet and provide adequate torque.

Thats all I can think of...
Garrett

TheBIessedDead wrote:

Is the light coming on at all power levels?



It was, yeah. I checked the ground saw that the screw was loose, so I ran a
new 4 gauge ground wire, and secured all the wires inside the box with female
connectors....I'm not sure which was the problem, but that fixed it. Now the
light doesn't come on at all, and the speakers sound find. I'm thinking it
might have been the ground, since the screw was so loose. The speaker wires
while not exactly installed properly, were secure.

Anyhow, how can I secure my damn ground better? I bought the biggest short
sheet metal screws at the hardware store, and they still don't seem to really
bite down. I tighten it, and then it just spins and spins. Any suggestions
for a better way? I don't see a way to use an actual bolt, since I couldn't
get underneath the metal to put the nut on.

Nick

HOLY CRAP, I had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM with the EXACT SAME AMP. I
think theres an internal short in the amp that screws things up. Mine
got worse and worse untill the music cut out so much you couldn't tell
what was playing. Use a voltmeter and test the voltage at the power
terminals. People insisted that i didn't have something connected
right, but i was sure i did, and this confirms it! I think this amp
has an inherint problem. I sent mine back for warrenty repairs (cost
me $10 shipping, and won't be back for 6 weeks!) Sucks majorly. Good
luck![flame]

Well, I dunno about your amp, but making a better ground, and better
connections to my subwoofer inside the box fixed the problem right up. Sounds
great now.

Nick

What are you grounding to?


Right now I've just drilled a small hole under the carpet in my trunk and used
a big sheet metal screw there. I'll have to look around when its light
tomorrow for a better spot.


Also, I'd like to say that Hifonics ****es me off with the way I have to mount
this amp. Have to buy a special star shaped screw driver to take the cover off
and get access to the holes so I can screw the amp to where I will mount it.
LAME.

Nick

Sounds like a "torx" bit? Nissan and Ford use those on my Quest disk
brake calipers. I agree PITA. They are designed to take more torque
than a standard hex bolt, so in certain applicaitons it makes sense.
Not familiar with that amp, but if its just a cover plate, IMHO an allen
screw would work just as well.

Garrett

TheBIessedDead wrote:

What are you grounding to?




Right now I've just drilled a small hole under the carpet in my trunk and used
a big sheet metal screw there. I'll have to look around when its light
tomorrow for a better spot.


Also, I'd like to say that Hifonics ****es me off with the way I have to mount
this amp. Have to buy a special star shaped screw driver to take the cover off
and get access to the holes so I can screw the amp to where I will mount it.
LAME.

Nick

Sounds like a "torx" bit? Nissan and Ford use those on my Quest disk
brake calipers. I agree PITA. They are designed to take more torque
than a standard hex bolt, so in certain applicaitons it makes sense.
Not familiar with that amp, but if its just a cover plate, IMHO an allen
screw would work just as well.


Yeah, Torx bit... I couldn't remember the name of the damn thing.

Its ridiculous, because to take the bottom of the amp off, there is just
phillips screws...But to take the top off, there is those damn torx things.
How dumb. Other than that, I'm loving the amp though.

Nick