[Mark D. Zacharias]

Thought I'd ask the guys here rather than go find another group - and I'm
pretty sure this has come up before.

Previously had wood doors with a magnet plug sunk into the lower edge,
activating a switch (reed-switch I suppose) in the door frame.

Installing new metal doorsand frames. (Metal case - wood fill)

Problem? Workaround?

What do y'all think?


Thanks.

Mark Z.

[Laurence Payne]

On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 17:57:26 GMT, "Mark D. Zacharias"
wrote:

Thought I'd ask the guys here rather than go find another group - and I'm
pretty sure this has come up before.

Previously had wood doors with a magnet plug sunk into the lower edge,
activating a switch (reed-switch I suppose) in the door frame.

Installing new metal doorsand frames. (Metal case - wood fill)

Problem? Workaround?

What do y'all think?



Who makes the switches? What do they say?

[Mark D. Zacharias]

Laurence Payne wrote:
On Sat, 21 Apr 2007 17:57:26 GMT, "Mark D. Zacharias"
wrote:

Thought I'd ask the guys here rather than go find another group -
and I'm pretty sure this has come up before.

Previously had wood doors with a magnet plug sunk into the lower
edge, activating a switch (reed-switch I suppose) in the door frame.

Installing new metal doorsand frames. (Metal case - wood fill)

Problem? Workaround?

What do y'all think?



Who makes the switches? What do they say?

White cylinder, plastic, about 1/3 inch diameter and 2 inches long. with
wires out one end. ADT logo embossed on the end. No other markings.

Thanks.

Mark Z.

[WindsorFox]

Mark D. Zacharias wrote:
Thought I'd ask the guys here rather than go find another group - and I'm
pretty sure this has come up before.

Previously had wood doors with a magnet plug sunk into the lower edge,
activating a switch (reed-switch I suppose) in the door frame.

Installing new metal doorsand frames. (Metal case - wood fill)

Problem? Workaround?

What do y'all think?


Thanks.

Mark Z.




There are magnets and switches made for metal doors and metal
frames. They are made so there is a 1/4 - 5/8 inch gap between the
magnet or switch and the steel.

See he
http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?...uct_id=82-3287

or here if it wraps: http://tinyurl.com/323qgq

MCM is a good place to order from too as well is Parts Express.

[Richard Crowley]

"Mark D. Zacharias" wrote ...
Laurence Payne wrote:
"Mark D. Zacharias"wrote:

Thought I'd ask the guys here rather than go find another group -
and I'm pretty sure this has come up before.

Previously had wood doors with a magnet plug sunk into the lower
edge, activating a switch (reed-switch I suppose) in the door frame.

Installing new metal doorsand frames. (Metal case - wood fill)

Problem? Workaround?

What do y'all think?



Who makes the switches? What do they say?

White cylinder, plastic, about 1/3 inch diameter and 2 inches long.
with wires out one end. ADT logo embossed on the end. No other
markings.

So ADT had them made for them.
Do yo have ADT monitoring service?
What do they say?

[Mark D. Zacharias]

WindsorFox wrote:
Mark D. Zacharias wrote:
Thought I'd ask the guys here rather than go find another group -
and I'm pretty sure this has come up before.

Previously had wood doors with a magnet plug sunk into the lower
edge, activating a switch (reed-switch I suppose) in the door frame.

Installing new metal doorsand frames. (Metal case - wood fill)

Problem? Workaround?

What do y'all think?


Thanks.

Mark Z.




There are magnets and switches made for metal doors and metal
frames. They are made so there is a 1/4 - 5/8 inch gap between the
magnet or switch and the steel.

See he
http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?...uct_id=82-3287

or here if it wraps: http://tinyurl.com/323qgq

MCM is a good place to order from too as well is Parts Express.


Thanks for the info.

mz

[Mark D. Zacharias]

Richard Crowley wrote:
"Mark D. Zacharias" wrote ...
Laurence Payne wrote:
"Mark D. Zacharias"wrote:

Thought I'd ask the guys here rather than go find another group -
and I'm pretty sure this has come up before.

Previously had wood doors with a magnet plug sunk into the lower
edge, activating a switch (reed-switch I suppose) in the door
frame. Installing new metal doorsand frames. (Metal case - wood fill)

Problem? Workaround?

What do y'all think?



Who makes the switches? What do they say?

White cylinder, plastic, about 1/3 inch diameter and 2 inches long.
with wires out one end. ADT logo embossed on the end. No other
markings.

So ADT had them made for them.
Do yo have ADT monitoring service?
What do they say?

I discontinued their monitoring service years ago, but I think I have enough
information to proceed. I can just mount switches on the external parts of
the door or buy the MCM models. Problem is, the info on the MCM ones came a
bit late - the doors are already installed.

Mark Z.

[WindsorFox]

Mark D. Zacharias wrote:
Richard Crowley wrote:
"Mark D. Zacharias" wrote ...
Laurence Payne wrote:
"Mark D. Zacharias"wrote:

Thought I'd ask the guys here rather than go find another group -
and I'm pretty sure this has come up before.

Previously had wood doors with a magnet plug sunk into the lower
edge, activating a switch (reed-switch I suppose) in the door
frame. Installing new metal doorsand frames. (Metal case - wood fill)

Problem? Workaround?

What do y'all think?


Who makes the switches? What do they say?
White cylinder, plastic, about 1/3 inch diameter and 2 inches long.
with wires out one end. ADT logo embossed on the end. No other
markings.
So ADT had them made for them.
Do yo have ADT monitoring service?
What do they say?

I discontinued their monitoring service years ago, but I think I have enough
information to proceed. I can just mount switches on the external parts of
the door or buy the MCM models. Problem is, the info on the MCM ones came a
bit late - the doors are already installed.


Does that mean they used your old switch, or they installed the door
and you have noting there? If there is nothing AND you think you can
drill a hole and find the wire inside then you're fine. Make the hole
and use a piece of coat hanger strategically bent at the end to grab the
wire. If the wire is gone or you know you can't find it or are unsure
enough to cut a 1" hole in the door frame, you can use a regular surface
mount contact with a 90 degree bracket or add 2-3 spacers under both
magnet and switch. I have some magnetic switches mounted on steel doors
and frames with spacers and some have been there almost 20 years trouble
free.

Another solution would be to call an alarm company and pay them the
price to install that one switch. It would be a much bigger price than a
$3 switch, but it would get done right, look better than a surface mount
and YOU wouldn't have to get in the attic. The last one is enough
incentive for me these days....



--
Yes, it is a good thing you are handy, as
you clearly suck at being smart. - Herb

[Mark D. Zacharias]

WindsorFox wrote:
Mark D. Zacharias wrote:
Richard Crowley wrote:
"Mark D. Zacharias" wrote ...
Laurence Payne wrote:
"Mark D. Zacharias"wrote:

Thought I'd ask the guys here rather than go find another group -
and I'm pretty sure this has come up before.

Previously had wood doors with a magnet plug sunk into the lower
edge, activating a switch (reed-switch I suppose) in the door
frame. Installing new metal doorsand frames. (Metal case - wood
fill) Problem? Workaround?

What do y'all think?


Who makes the switches? What do they say?
White cylinder, plastic, about 1/3 inch diameter and 2 inches long.
with wires out one end. ADT logo embossed on the end. No other
markings.
So ADT had them made for them.
Do yo have ADT monitoring service?
What do they say?

I discontinued their monitoring service years ago, but I think I
have enough information to proceed. I can just mount switches on the
external parts of the door or buy the MCM models. Problem is, the
info on the MCM ones came a bit late - the doors are already
installed.

Does that mean they used your old switch, or they installed the
door and you have noting there? If there is nothing AND you think
you can drill a hole and find the wire inside then you're fine. Make
the hole and use a piece of coat hanger strategically bent at the end
to grab the wire. If the wire is gone or you know you can't find it
or are unsure enough to cut a 1" hole in the door frame, you can use
a regular surface mount contact with a 90 degree bracket or add 2-3
spacers under both magnet and switch. I have some magnetic switches
mounted on steel doors and frames with spacers and some have been
there almost 20 years trouble free.

Another solution would be to call an alarm company and pay them the
price to install that one switch. It would be a much bigger price
than a $3 switch, but it would get done right, look better than a
surface mount and YOU wouldn't have to get in the attic. The last one
is enough incentive for me these days....

At present the old wires are just hanging out there. The trim can be pulled
back and the wires tucked back in with the new switches when I get them. I
just don't have a ready way to drill a 3/4" hole in the frame and the door -
and not sure of several other small details - enough to maybe have the alarm
company do it just to get it right. I would feel OK installing external
mounted switches and magnets myself, they just would sort of look crappy.
I'm not an installer though, and I only have one chance to do it right...

Mark Z.