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#1
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Part needed for Sony CD player
Hello.
The laser on my Sony CDP-555ES is dying, and the part (KSS271A) is discontinued. Any help from this group in locating a replacement will be greatly appreciatecd. Thank you very much. Bob Harper |
#2
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What exactly is the player doing wrong? Often the laser is mis-identified as
the culprit. Mark Z. "Bob Harper" wrote in message news:SeSbd.186042$wV.32475@attbi_s54... Hello. The laser on my Sony CDP-555ES is dying, and the part (KSS271A) is discontinued. Any help from this group in locating a replacement will be greatly appreciatecd. Thank you very much. Bob Harper |
#3
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Mark D. Zacharias wrote:
What exactly is the player doing wrong? Often the laser is mis-identified as the culprit. Mark Z. "Bob Harper" wrote in message news:SeSbd.186042$wV.32475@attbi_s54... Hello. The laser on my Sony CDP-555ES is dying, and the part (KSS271A) is discontinued. Any help from this group in locating a replacement will be greatly appreciatecd. Thank you very much. Bob Harper It skips very easily. My technician has measured the laser's output, and says it's a wonder it tracks anything at all. Bob |
#4
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"Bob Harper" wrote
It skips very easily. My technician has measured the laser's output, and says it's a wonder it tracks anything at all. So replace the entire drive mechanism. If there is something "magic" about the D/A and analog parts of your CD player, you can still keep them. |
#5
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"Bob Harper" wrote in message news:yvacd.257423 It skips very easily. My technician has measured the laser's output, and says it's a wonder it tracks anything at all. Why doesn't he change the laser diode then ? You don't need to replace the whole assembly. geoff |
#6
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"Richard Crowley" wrote in message ... "Bob Harper" wrote It skips very easily. My technician has measured the laser's output, and says it's a wonder it tracks anything at all. So replace the entire drive mechanism. If there is something "magic" about the D/A and analog parts of your CD player, you can still keep them. What do you think this is, a CD-ROM drive? The entire mech won't be available, except from a scrapper. Mark Z. |
#7
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"Geoff Wood" -nospam wrote in message ... "Bob Harper" wrote in message news:yvacd.257423 It skips very easily. My technician has measured the laser's output, and says it's a wonder it tracks anything at all. Why doesn't he change the laser diode then ? You don't need to replace the whole assembly. geoff One does not replace just the laser diode. Where would you get it anyway? Place a bulk order to Taiwan? Mark Z. |
#8
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"Bob Harper" wrote in message news:yvacd.257423$D%.185717@attbi_s51... Mark D. Zacharias wrote: What exactly is the player doing wrong? Often the laser is mis-identified as the culprit. Mark Z. "Bob Harper" wrote in message news:SeSbd.186042$wV.32475@attbi_s54... Hello. The laser on my Sony CDP-555ES is dying, and the part (KSS271A) is discontinued. Any help from this group in locating a replacement will be greatly appreciatecd. Thank you very much. Bob Harper It skips very easily. My technician has measured the laser's output, and says it's a wonder it tracks anything at all. Bob Lots of potential reasons for this. Your tech may be great, and comparing to published Sony literature, or not - I just can't say. If it plays at all, and the eye pattern isn't too noisy, I would think there's some other problem. It may be possible if necessary to adjust the laser power, but of course this must be done correctly or the laser diode itself is likely to be destroyed. Mark Z. |
#9
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"Mark D. Zacharias" wrote in message ... "Geoff Wood" -nospam wrote in message ... "Bob Harper" wrote in message news:yvacd.257423 It skips very easily. My technician has measured the laser's output, and says it's a wonder it tracks anything at all. Why doesn't he change the laser diode then ? You don't need to replace the whole assembly. geoff One does not replace just the laser diode. Where would you get it anyway? Place a bulk order to Taiwan? No. Try any comprehensive electronic parts supplier. geoff |
#10
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"Geoff Wood" -nospam wrote in message ... "Mark D. Zacharias" wrote in message ... "Geoff Wood" -nospam wrote in message ... "Bob Harper" wrote in message news:yvacd.257423 It skips very easily. My technician has measured the laser's output, and says it's a wonder it tracks anything at all. Why doesn't he change the laser diode then ? You don't need to replace the whole assembly. geoff One does not replace just the laser diode. Where would you get it anyway? Place a bulk order to Taiwan? No. Try any comprehensive electronic parts supplier. geoff Such as? Not MCM, Andrews, or any of the other regular suppliers for audio repair. Besides, the diode itself is RARELY the problem. The is an APC circuit in every cd player, and they work quite well. Contamination from smoke, dust, etc is the number one cause of failure, followed by a bad diode pack, followed by an open focus or tracking coil. Mark Z. |
#11
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"Mark D. Zacharias" wrote in message ... "Richard Crowley" wrote in message ... "Bob Harper" wrote It skips very easily. My technician has measured the laser's output, and says it's a wonder it tracks anything at all. So replace the entire drive mechanism. If there is something "magic" about the D/A and analog parts of your CD player, you can still keep them. What do you think this is, a CD-ROM drive? The entire mech won't be available, except from a scrapper. I have seen several mentions online of people converting old CD players to independent D/A converters to keep them running with newer drives. A few quality moments with Google will likely turn up more info than you can handle. |
#12
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"Richard Crowley" wrote in message ... "Mark D. Zacharias" wrote in message ... "Richard Crowley" wrote in message ... "Bob Harper" wrote It skips very easily. My technician has measured the laser's output, and says it's a wonder it tracks anything at all. So replace the entire drive mechanism. If there is something "magic" about the D/A and analog parts of your CD player, you can still keep them. What do you think this is, a CD-ROM drive? The entire mech won't be available, except from a scrapper. I have seen several mentions online of people converting old CD players to independent D/A converters to keep them running with newer drives. A few quality moments with Google will likely turn up more info than you can handle. OK, but there's no evidence the OP is a do-it-your-selfer. Kludging together some random drive unit with someone else's electronics would be beyond the capability of most people, to put it charitably. You'd have to have schematics, of course. Then you'd have to match the various connections from incompatible connectors. Hopefully the laser APC circuit is compatible. Hopefully the motor drive voltages are compatible. Some sled motors run in the 2 volt range. Some run in the 0.8 volt range. The list of problems, it seems to me, just gets longer the more I consider the issue. Mark Z. |
#13
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Mark D. Zacharias wrote:
"Richard Crowley" wrote in message ... "Mark D. Zacharias" wrote in message ... "Richard Crowley" wrote in message ... "Bob Harper" wrote It skips very easily. My technician has measured the laser's output, and says it's a wonder it tracks anything at all. So replace the entire drive mechanism. If there is something "magic" about the D/A and analog parts of your CD player, you can still keep them. What do you think this is, a CD-ROM drive? The entire mech won't be available, except from a scrapper. I have seen several mentions online of people converting old CD players to independent D/A converters to keep them running with newer drives. A few quality moments with Google will likely turn up more info than you can handle. OK, but there's no evidence the OP is a do-it-your-selfer. Kludging together some random drive unit with someone else's electronics would be beyond the capability of most people, to put it charitably. You'd have to have schematics, of course. Then you'd have to match the various connections from incompatible connectors. Hopefully the laser APC circuit is compatible. Hopefully the motor drive voltages are compatible. Some sled motors run in the 2 volt range. Some run in the 0.8 volt range. The list of problems, it seems to me, just gets longer the more I consider the issue. Mark Z. Mr. Zacharias is correct; I am not much of a DIYer, certainly not competent to accomplish any of the recommended courses. However, I've discovered that the original unit may be available from Europe (I'll find out in the next day or two), and should it be that will solve the problem. Nonetheless, my thanks for everyone's comments. If it doesn't come about, anybody want a dead 555ES for parts or experimentation ? Bob Harper |
#14
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"Mark D. Zacharias" wrote in message ... "Richard Crowley" wrote in message ... "Mark D. Zacharias" wrote in message ... "Richard Crowley" wrote in message ... "Bob Harper" wrote It skips very easily. My technician has measured the laser's output, and says it's a wonder it tracks anything at all. So replace the entire drive mechanism. If there is something "magic" about the D/A and analog parts of your CD player, you can still keep them. What do you think this is, a CD-ROM drive? The entire mech won't be available, except from a scrapper. I have seen several mentions online of people converting old CD players to independent D/A converters to keep them running with newer drives. A few quality moments with Google will likely turn up more info than you can handle. OK, but there's no evidence the OP is a do-it-your-selfer. Kludging together some random drive unit with someone else's electronics would be beyond the capability of most people, to put it charitably. You'd have to have schematics, of course. Then you'd have to match the various connections from incompatible connectors. Hopefully the laser APC circuit is compatible. Hopefully the motor drive voltages are compatible. Some sled motors run in the 2 volt range. Some run in the 0.8 volt range. The list of problems, it seems to me, just gets longer the more I consider the issue. Which nicely summarizes the original concept that trying to keep an older consumer product (for which replacement parts are no longer available) running is not a practical thing. |
#15
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"Bob Harper" wrote in message news:_Nucd.262592 Mr. Zacharias is correct; I am not much of a DIYer, certainly not competent to accomplish any of the recommended courses. However, I've discovered that the original unit may be available from Europe (I'll find out in the next day or two), and should it be that will solve the problem. Nonetheless, my thanks for everyone's comments. If it doesn't come about, anybody want a dead 555ES for parts or experimentation ? Well, a dude down here in New Zealand changed the laser diode in my 502ES-2 for US$30 all up, in his garage workshop, and it works as well as ever. Stll doesn't sound as good as a cheapo latr-generation 8 x OS player though. But it eighs more, and is slicker in over-ll mechanical operation. geoff |
#16
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I'd take it if it comes to that.
Mark Z. "Bob Harper" wrote in message news:_Nucd.262592$D%.29968@attbi_s51... Mark D. Zacharias wrote: "Richard Crowley" wrote in message ... "Mark D. Zacharias" wrote in message ... "Richard Crowley" wrote in message ... "Bob Harper" wrote It skips very easily. My technician has measured the laser's output, and says it's a wonder it tracks anything at all. So replace the entire drive mechanism. If there is something "magic" about the D/A and analog parts of your CD player, you can still keep them. What do you think this is, a CD-ROM drive? The entire mech won't be available, except from a scrapper. I have seen several mentions online of people converting old CD players to independent D/A converters to keep them running with newer drives. A few quality moments with Google will likely turn up more info than you can handle. OK, but there's no evidence the OP is a do-it-your-selfer. Kludging together some random drive unit with someone else's electronics would be beyond the capability of most people, to put it charitably. You'd have to have schematics, of course. Then you'd have to match the various connections from incompatible connectors. Hopefully the laser APC circuit is compatible. Hopefully the motor drive voltages are compatible. Some sled motors run in the 2 volt range. Some run in the 0.8 volt range. The list of problems, it seems to me, just gets longer the more I consider the issue. Mark Z. Mr. Zacharias is correct; I am not much of a DIYer, certainly not competent to accomplish any of the recommended courses. However, I've discovered that the original unit may be available from Europe (I'll find out in the next day or two), and should it be that will solve the problem. Nonetheless, my thanks for everyone's comments. If it doesn't come about, anybody want a dead 555ES for parts or experimentation ? Bob Harper |
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