Hi. I didn't get a reply to my last post and so I am hoping this subject
will help me get an answer.

I have a modern Pioneer Head Unit that feeds the front speakers (door and
dash/tweeters), back speakers and the RCA out goes to a PPI 2120 amp and
then to a JL Audio 10" sub.

Hence only the sub is amplified.

What I need to know, is to what X-Over Freq 20Hz-5kHz should I set it since
it is only feeding a sub. And also, for the X-Over type, should I choose
FULL/HPF/LPF ?

I just want to understand how X-Over are supposed to be set.

Thanks.

"[80s.fan]" wrote in message
Hi. I didn't get a reply to my last post and so I am hoping this subject
will help me get an answer.

I have a modern Pioneer Head Unit that feeds the front speakers (door and
dash/tweeters), back speakers and the RCA out goes to a PPI 2120 amp and
then to a JL Audio 10" sub.

Hence only the sub is amplified.

What I need to know, is to what X-Over Freq 20Hz-5kHz should I set it
since
it is only feeding a sub. And also, for the X-Over type, should I choose
FULL/HPF/LPF ?

I just want to understand how X-Over are supposed to be set.

Thanks.


If I'm not mistaken, you got several replys from your first thread, so
apparently your news server isn't picking them up or something

No replies at all. I see all of the replies of all other posts on all other
newsgroup I post on.
Thanks.

"Adair Winter" wrote in message
...
"[80s.fan]" wrote in message
Hi. I didn't get a reply to my last post and so I am hoping this
subject
will help me get an answer.

I have a modern Pioneer Head Unit that feeds the front speakers (door
and
dash/tweeters), back speakers and the RCA out goes to a PPI 2120 amp and
then to a JL Audio 10" sub.

Hence only the sub is amplified.

What I need to know, is to what X-Over Freq 20Hz-5kHz should I set it
since
it is only feeding a sub. And also, for the X-Over type, should I
choose
FULL/HPF/LPF ?

I just want to understand how X-Over are supposed to be set.

Thanks.


If I'm not mistaken, you got several replys from your first thread, so
apparently your news server isn't picking them up or something

Ok, thanks. I did get one reply and just saw that with Google groups.

Must have mark it as read by mistake.....

Thanks guys.


"[80s.fan]" wrote in message
. ..
No replies at all. I see all of the replies of all other posts on all
other
newsgroup I post on.
Thanks.

"Adair Winter" wrote in message
...
"[80s.fan]" wrote in message
Hi. I didn't get a reply to my last post and so I am hoping this
subject
will help me get an answer.

I have a modern Pioneer Head Unit that feeds the front speakers (door
and
dash/tweeters), back speakers and the RCA out goes to a PPI 2120 amp
and
then to a JL Audio 10" sub.

Hence only the sub is amplified.

What I need to know, is to what X-Over Freq 20Hz-5kHz should I set it
since
it is only feeding a sub. And also, for the X-Over type, should I
choose
FULL/HPF/LPF ?

I just want to understand how X-Over are supposed to be set.

Thanks.


If I'm not mistaken, you got several replys from your first thread, so
apparently your news server isn't picking them up or something

You'll probably have the choice of two X-overs. A X-over is just a
filter -- it can be as simple as that. Filters typically have two or
three key characteristics: (1) Cutoff Frequency - point where the
filter actually has a measurable (3dB) effect. (2) Slope - how
aggressive is this filter, 24db/octave would filter 'more' than a
6db/octave slope would. (3) Filter type... For our discussion we
can ignore this, but filters can have different 'shapes'.

A subwoofer is that: It is a woofer that plays 'sub-frequencies'
which are lower than that of normal human speech. This being the
case, it is built do just that: It is large and relatively heavy when
compared to other speakers. It must induce a lot of low-frequency
(slow changing) changes in air pressure. To allow it to the best job,
we should only feed it with lower frequencies -- Hence use the LPF
(low-pass filter) for the sub.

Your (1) Cutoff frequency will be up to you ears, and characteristics
of your sub and its enclosure. Typically it can range anywhere from
60 - 120Hz.

The (2) slope will depend on which filter you choose to use. You will
probably have one filter available at your headunit, and probably
another at your amplifier. I would use one, and turn the other off.
If you were to use both though... the slope would sum (ie a 18db/Oct
inline with a 12db/oct filter would result in 30db/octave filter...
for the most part).

The (3) filter type will be defined by the HU/amplifier. You have no
control of it.

Hope that helps.

Gordon


"[80s.fan]" wrote in message . ..
Hi. I didn't get a reply to my last post and so I am hoping this subject
will help me get an answer.

I have a modern Pioneer Head Unit that feeds the front speakers (door and
dash/tweeters), back speakers and the RCA out goes to a PPI 2120 amp and
then to a JL Audio 10" sub.

Hence only the sub is amplified.

What I need to know, is to what X-Over Freq 20Hz-5kHz should I set it since
it is only feeding a sub. And also, for the X-Over type, should I choose
FULL/HPF/LPF ?

I just want to understand how X-Over are supposed to be set.

Thanks.

Audio Control


--
SFarris
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Did you even read his post? His amp has a perfectly good crossover in it.
Why would you suggest he go out and spend an assload more money for
something his amp already does?



Paul Vina




"SFarris" wrote in message
...

Audio Control


--
SFarris
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Oh, I'm sorry...I have never ever installed PPI [nerd]. I would suggest
that, because the title of the post is "What X-Over to use with a PPI
amp?"

If you are going to drop the money on a PPI amp, at least use a decent
crossover. Yes it has a built in crossover, however you do have near
the control of your crossover points like you do with the audio control
or any electronic crossover for that matter.


Tell me what is easier to read:

::THIS::

OR

this

Now if I were to ask you to place a dot between the "H" and the "I"
which would you rather work with?


--
SFarris
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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View this thread: http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/s...threadid=13182

Ok, guys, thanks very much. I understood and set my amp build in x-over
setting to LPF and will play around with the frequence for best result....

"SFarris" wrote in message
...

Oh, I'm sorry...I have never ever installed PPI [nerd]. I would suggest
that, because the title of the post is "What X-Over to use with a PPI
amp?"

If you are going to drop the money on a PPI amp, at least use a decent
crossover. Yes it has a built in crossover, however you do have near
the control of your crossover points like you do with the audio control
or any electronic crossover for that matter.


Tell me what is easier to read:

::THIS::

OR

this

Now if I were to ask you to place a dot between the "H" and the "I"
which would you rather work with?


--
SFarris
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted via RealCarAudio.com - The checkmate of the caraudio community.
http://www.RealCarAudio.com
SFarris's Profile:
http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/m...fo&userid=2572
View this thread:
http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/s...threadid=13182

The PPI PCX crossovers are detented and the manual has a page that will tell
you exactly what your crossover point is at each detent. I'll take that
over any type of non-detented "guessing game" crossover (like an AC) any
day.


Paul Vina



"SFarris" wrote in message
...

Oh, I'm sorry...I have never ever installed PPI [nerd]. I would suggest
that, because the title of the post is "What X-Over to use with a PPI
amp?"

If you are going to drop the money on a PPI amp, at least use a decent
crossover. Yes it has a built in crossover, however you do have near
the control of your crossover points like you do with the audio control
or any electronic crossover for that matter.


Tell me what is easier to read:

::THIS::

OR

this

Now if I were to ask you to place a dot between the "H" and the "I"
which would you rather work with?


--
SFarris
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted via RealCarAudio.com - The checkmate of the caraudio community.
http://www.RealCarAudio.com
SFarris's Profile:
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View this thread:
http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/s...threadid=13182

please... why would you hose up the signal path like that? Using the
built-in crossover on any of the PPi amps built in the last few years is
a far better solution than tacking a frigging AC module ahead of the amp.

JD

SFarris wrote:

Audio Control


--
SFarris
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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amen, brother Paul ... and don't get me started on system & engine noise
potential not to menion how much you'd raise the noise floor vs. the
built-in solution.

JD

Paul Vina wrote:

Did you even read his post? His amp has a perfectly good crossover in it.
Why would you suggest he go out and spend an assload more money for
something his amp already does?



Paul Vina




"SFarris" wrote in message
...


Audio Control


--
SFarris
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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SFarris's Profile:


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View this thread:


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you will want to set you crossover to LPF mode. Its called low pass and
will allow only bass to pass through to the woofer.
For subwoofer base you should set the roll of frequency to somewhere between
50-125 hz depending on what sounds better for your car.
[80s.fan] wrote in message
...
Hi. I didn't get a reply to my last post and so I am hoping this subject
will help me get an answer.

I have a modern Pioneer Head Unit that feeds the front speakers (door and
dash/tweeters), back speakers and the RCA out goes to a PPI 2120 amp and
then to a JL Audio 10" sub.

Hence only the sub is amplified.

What I need to know, is to what X-Over Freq 20Hz-5kHz should I set it
since
it is only feeding a sub. And also, for the X-Over type, should I choose
FULL/HPF/LPF ?

I just want to understand how X-Over are supposed to be set.

Thanks.

I have a PPI PC-2100. I do have to agree with the other guy, I was not too
happy with the built-in crossover. I did add an audio control 3xs module type
crossover and found that it sounded better with it. I was also getting a minor
input hum from the front (mid/high) channels of the amp that the audio control
3xs totally cleared up. Funny thing is that the noise was only there with the
PPI amp, I have also tried an Alpine and an MTX amp for the mid/highs no noise
was present.


In article fhzub.239249$HS4.2063735@attbi_s01, "Paul Vina"
wrote:
The PPI PCX crossovers are detented and the manual has a page that will tell
you exactly what your crossover point is at each detent. I'll take that
over any type of non-detented "guessing game" crossover (like an AC) any
day.


Paul Vina



"SFarris" wrote in message
...

Oh, I'm sorry...I have never ever installed PPI [nerd]. I would suggest
that, because the title of the post is "What X-Over to use with a PPI
amp?"

If you are going to drop the money on a PPI amp, at least use a decent
crossover. Yes it has a built in crossover, however you do have near
the control of your crossover points like you do with the audio control
or any electronic crossover for that matter.


Tell me what is easier to read:

::THIS::

OR

this

Now if I were to ask you to place a dot between the "H" and the "I"
which would you rather work with?


--
SFarris
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted via RealCarAudio.com - The checkmate of the caraudio community.
http://www.RealCarAudio.com
SFarris's Profile:
http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/m...fo&userid=2572
View this thread:
http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/s...threadid=13182

But at least you tried it first. Suggesting to someone that they spend a
crapload more money without ever exploring their option with the included
functions is just asinine.


Paul Vina



"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...

I have a PPI PC-2100. I do have to agree with the other guy, I was not too
happy with the built-in crossover. I did add an audio control 3xs module
type
crossover and found that it sounded better with it. I was also getting a
minor
input hum from the front (mid/high) channels of the amp that the audio
control
3xs totally cleared up. Funny thing is that the noise was only there with
the
PPI amp, I have also tried an Alpine and an MTX amp for the mid/highs no
noise
was present.


In article fhzub.239249$HS4.2063735@attbi_s01, "Paul Vina"
wrote:
The PPI PCX crossovers are detented and the manual has a page that will
tell
you exactly what your crossover point is at each detent. I'll take that
over any type of non-detented "guessing game" crossover (like an AC) any
day.


Paul Vina



"SFarris" wrote in message
...

Oh, I'm sorry...I have never ever installed PPI [nerd]. I would
suggest
that, because the title of the post is "What X-Over to use with a PPI
amp?"

If you are going to drop the money on a PPI amp, at least use a decent
crossover. Yes it has a built in crossover, however you do have near
the control of your crossover points like you do with the audio control
or any electronic crossover for that matter.


Tell me what is easier to read:

::THIS::

OR

this

Now if I were to ask you to place a dot between the "H" and the "I"
which would you rather work with?


--
SFarris

------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted via RealCarAudio.com - The checkmate of the caraudio community.
http://www.RealCarAudio.com
SFarris's Profile:
http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/m...fo&userid=2572
View this thread:
http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/s...threadid=13182

And, I am very skeptical about the built-in crossover causing noise that
was fixed by adding another component in the signal path. That's just
not particularly plausible... you have to remember nothing in the front
end changes when you turn off the crossover except whether you routed
through a crossover or not. What's more likely is that there was some
kind of screwed up signal ground path that actually agreed with A/C's
funky grounding philosophy. PC and PCX amps are some of the best amps
around at rejecting noise on the input cables, you have to go out of
your way to make them pick up noise. Probably had the inputs cranked to
max sensitivity, and had to turn them down to use the ouboard
crossover... I'm sticking with the advice (in this case) to use the
built-in crossover.

JD

Paul Vina wrote:

But at least you tried it first. Suggesting to someone that they spend a
crapload more money without ever exploring their option with the included
functions is just asinine.


Paul Vina



"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...


I have a PPI PC-2100. I do have to agree with the other guy, I was not too
happy with the built-in crossover. I did add an audio control 3xs module


type


crossover and found that it sounded better with it. I was also getting a


minor


input hum from the front (mid/high) channels of the amp that the audio


control


3xs totally cleared up. Funny thing is that the noise was only there with


the


PPI amp, I have also tried an Alpine and an MTX amp for the mid/highs no


noise


was present.


In article fhzub.239249$HS4.2063735@attbi_s01, "Paul Vina"
wrote:


The PPI PCX crossovers are detented and the manual has a page that will


tell


you exactly what your crossover point is at each detent. I'll take that
over any type of non-detented "guessing game" crossover (like an AC) any
day.


Paul Vina



"SFarris" wrote in message
...


Oh, I'm sorry...I have never ever installed PPI [nerd]. I would


suggest


that, because the title of the post is "What X-Over to use with a PPI
amp?"

If you are going to drop the money on a PPI amp, at least use a decent
crossover. Yes it has a built in crossover, however you do have near
the control of your crossover points like you do with the audio control
or any electronic crossover for that matter.


Tell me what is easier to read:

::THIS::

OR

this

Now if I were to ask you to place a dot between the "H" and the "I"
which would you rather work with?


--
SFarris


------------------------------------------------------------------------


Posted via RealCarAudio.com - The checkmate of the caraudio community.
http://www.RealCarAudio.com
SFarris's Profile:


http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/m...fo&userid=2572


View this thread:


http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/s...threadid=13182

What the heck do YOU know about audio JD? Aren't you the SECURITY guy?
;-)

--
John Spagnolo - teamROCS #016
Multi Media Xpress Car Audio www.mmxpress.com
"It's about the music stupid!" John "Batvette" Lucier 98'
R.A.C. FAQ: http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/
JL Audio Tech Section: http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials
MMXpress Tech Section: http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/


"John Durbin" wrote in message ...
And, I am very skeptical about the built-in crossover causing noise that was fixed by adding another component in the signal path. That's just not particularly plausible... you have to remember nothing in the front end changes when you turn off the crossover except whether you routed through a crossover or not. What's more likely is that there was some kind of screwed up signal ground path that actually agreed with A/C's funky grounding philosophy. PC and PCX amps are some of the best amps around at rejecting noise on the input cables, you have to go out of your way to make them pick up noise. Probably had the inputs cranked to max sensitivity, and had to turn them down to use the ouboard crossover... I'm sticking with the advice (in this case) to use the built-in crossover.

JD

Paul Vina wrote:

But at least you tried it first. Suggesting to someone that they spend a
crapload more money without ever exploring their option with the included
functions is just asinine.


Paul Vina



"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...
I have a PPI PC-2100. I do have to agree with the other guy, I was not too
happy with the built-in crossover. I did add an audio control 3xs module
type
crossover and found that it sounded better with it. I was also getting a
minor
input hum from the front (mid/high) channels of the amp that the audio
control
3xs totally cleared up. Funny thing is that the noise was only there with
the
PPI amp, I have also tried an Alpine and an MTX amp for the mid/highs no
noise
was present.


In article fhzub.239249$HS4.2063735@attbi_s01, "Paul Vina"
wrote:
The PPI PCX crossovers are detented and the manual has a page that will
tell
you exactly what your crossover point is at each detent. I'll take that
over any type of non-detented "guessing game" crossover (like an AC) any
day.


Paul Vina



"SFarris" wrote in message
...
Oh, I'm sorry...I have never ever installed PPI [nerd]. I would
suggest
that, because the title of the post is "What X-Over to use with a PPI
amp?"

If you are going to drop the money on a PPI amp, at least use a decent
crossover. Yes it has a built in crossover, however you do have near
the control of your crossover points like you do with the audio control
or any electronic crossover for that matter.


Tell me what is easier to read:

::THIS::

OR

this

Now if I were to ask you to place a dot between the "H" and the "I"
which would you rather work with?


--
SFarris
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted via RealCarAudio.com - The checkmate of the caraudio community.
http://www.RealCarAudio.com
SFarris's Profile:
http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/m...fo&userid=2572
View this thread:
http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/s...threadid=13182

lies, damned lies!

JD
welcome back, big guy...

John from MMXpress.com wrote:

What the heck do YOU know about audio JD? Aren't you the SECURITY guy?
;-)

--
John Spagnolo - teamROCS #016
Multi Media Xpress Car Audio www.mmxpress.com http://www.mmxpress.com
"It's about the music stupid!" John "Batvette" Lucier 98'
R.A.C. FAQ: http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/
JL Audio Tech Section: http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials
MMXpress Tech Section: http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/



"John Durbin"
wrote in message ...
And, I am very skeptical about the built-in crossover causing
noise that was fixed by adding another component in the signal
path. That's just not particularly plausible... you have to
remember nothing in the front end changes when you turn off the
crossover except whether you routed through a crossover or not.
What's more likely is that there was some kind of screwed up
signal ground path that actually agreed with A/C's funky grounding
philosophy. PC and PCX amps are some of the best amps around at
rejecting noise on the input cables, you have to go out of your
way to make them pick up noise. Probably had the inputs cranked to
max sensitivity, and had to turn them down to use the ouboard
crossover... I'm sticking with the advice (in this case) to use
the built-in crossover.

JD

Paul Vina wrote:

But at least you tried it first. Suggesting to someone that they spend a
crapload more money without ever exploring their option with the included
functions is just asinine.


Paul Vina



"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...


I have a PPI PC-2100. I do have to agree with the other guy, I was not too
happy with the built-in crossover. I did add an audio control 3xs module


type


crossover and found that it sounded better with it. I was also getting a


minor


input hum from the front (mid/high) channels of the amp that the audio


control


3xs totally cleared up. Funny thing is that the noise was only there with


the


PPI amp, I have also tried an Alpine and an MTX amp for the mid/highs no


noise


was present.


In article fhzub.239249$HS4.2063735@attbi_s01, "Paul Vina"
mailto

The PPI PCX crossovers are detented and the manual has a page that will


tell


you exactly what your crossover point is at each detent. I'll take that
over any type of non-detented "guessing game" crossover (like an AC) any
day.


Paul Vina



"SFarris" wrote in message
...


Oh, I'm sorry...I have never ever installed PPI [nerd]. I would


suggest


that, because the title of the post is "What X-Over to use with a PPI
amp?"

If you are going to drop the money on a PPI amp, at least use a decent
crossover. Yes it has a built in crossover, however you do have near
the control of your crossover points like you do with the audio control
or any electronic crossover for that matter.


Tell me what is easier to read:

::THIS::

OR

this

Now if I were to ask you to place a dot between the "H" and the "I"
which would you rather work with?


--
SFarris


------------------------------------------------------------------------


Posted via RealCarAudio.com - The checkmate of the caraudio community.
http://www.RealCarAudio.com
SFarris's Profile:


http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/m...fo&userid=2572 http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/member.php?action=getinfo&userid=2572


View this thread:


http://www.realcaraudio.com/forums/s...threadid=13182

Thanks!
Nice to be back. Doesn't look like much has changed, other than some names,
and all new spammers. :-)

BTW, which sub hits the hardest?

--
John Spagnolo - teamROCS #016
Multi Media Xpress Car Audio www.mmxpress.com
"It's about the music stupid!" John "Batvette" Lucier 98'
R.A.C. FAQ: http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/
JL Audio Tech Section: http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials
MMXpress Tech Section: http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/


"John Durbin" wrote in message
...
lies, damned lies!

JD
welcome back, big guy...

John from MMXpress.com wrote:

What the heck do YOU know about audio JD? Aren't you the SECURITY guy?
;-)

--
John Spagnolo - teamROCS #016
Multi Media Xpress Car Audio www.mmxpress.com
"It's about the music stupid!" John "Batvette" Lucier 98'
R.A.C. FAQ: http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/
JL Audio Tech Section: http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials
MMXpress Tech Section: http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/


"John Durbin" wrote in message
...
And, I am very skeptical about the built-in crossover causing noise that was
fixed by adding another component in the signal path. That's just not
particularly plausible... you have to remember nothing in the front end
changes when you turn off the crossover except whether you routed through a
crossover or not. What's more likely is that there was some kind of screwed
up signal ground path that actually agreed with A/C's funky grounding
philosophy. PC and PCX amps are some of the best amps around at rejecting
noise on the input cables, you have to go out of your way to make them pick
up noise. Probably had the inputs cranked to max sensitivity, and had to
turn them down to use the ouboard crossover... I'm sticking with the advice
(in this case) to use the built-in crossover.

JD

Paul Vina wrote:

But at least you tried it first. Suggesting to someone that they spend a
crapload more money without ever exploring their option with the included
functions is just asinine.


Paul Vina



"Captain Howdy" wrote in message
...

I have a PPI PC-2100. I do have to agree with the other guy, I was not too
happy with the built-in crossover. I did add an audio control 3xs module

type

crossover and found that it sounded better with it. I was also getting a

minor

input hum from the front (mid/high) channels of the amp that the audio

control

3xs totally cleared up. Funny thing is that the noise was only there with

the

PPI amp, I have also tried an Alpine and an MTX amp for the mid/highs no

noise

was present.


In article fhzub.239249$HS4.2063735@attbi_s01, "Paul Vina"
wrote:

The PPI PCX crossovers are detented and the manual has a page that will

tell

you exactly what your crossover point is at each detent. I'll take that
over any type of non-detented "guessing game" crossover (like an AC) any
day.


Paul Vina



"SFarris" wrote in message
...

Oh, I'm sorry...I have never ever installed PPI [nerd]. I would

suggest

that, because the title of the post is "What X-Over to use with a PPI
amp?"

If you are going to drop the money on a PPI amp, at least use a decent
crossover. Yes it has a built in crossover, however you do have near
the control of your crossover points like you do with the audio control
or any electronic crossover for that matter.


Tell me what is easier to read:

::THIS::

OR

this

Now if I were to ask you to place a dot between the "H" and the "I"
which would you rather work with?


--
SFarris

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mine... forget the brand or the model number, just pick whichever is
closest, they all slam.

JD
specially that one CA&E just labeled the "new SPL champion"

John from MMXpress.com wrote:

Thanks!
Nice to be back. Doesn't look like much has changed, other than some names,
and all new spammers. :-)

BTW, which sub hits the hardest?

Which one was that?

--
John Spagnolo - teamROCS #016
Multi Media Xpress Car Audio www.mmxpress.com
"It's about the music stupid!" John "Batvette" Lucier 98'
R.A.C. FAQ: http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/
JL Audio Tech Section: http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials
MMXpress Tech Section: http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/


"John Durbin" wrote in message
...
mine... forget the brand or the model number, just pick whichever is
closest, they all slam.

JD
specially that one CA&E just labeled the "new SPL champion"

John from MMXpress.com wrote:

Thanks!
Nice to be back. Doesn't look like much has changed, other than some
names,
and all new spammers. :-)

BTW, which sub hits the hardest?

that would be your Orion 12" H2, @ 133 dB SPL in their test vehicle.

JD

John from MMXpress.com wrote:

Which one was that?

Nice...

Does that mean I have to upgrade my HCCA to an H2?

Anyone wanna buy an Orion HCCA12? Only slightly abused. :-)

--
John Spagnolo - teamROCS #016
Multi Media Xpress Car Audio www.mmxpress.com
"It's about the music stupid!" John "Batvette" Lucier 98'
R.A.C. FAQ: http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/
JL Audio Tech Section: http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials
MMXpress Tech Section: http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/


"John Durbin" wrote in message
...
that would be your Orion 12" H2, @ 133 dB SPL in their test vehicle.

JD

John from MMXpress.com wrote:

Which one was that?

not at all... no more than you would "have" to swap motors if someone
offered you a new one for the same price you paid for the old, but that
had twice the torque and twice the horsepower.


JD

John from MMXpress.com wrote:

Nice...

Does that mean I have to upgrade my HCCA to an H2?

Anyone wanna buy an Orion HCCA12? Only slightly abused. :-)