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htrboy htrboy is offline
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Default Amp oscillation

Hi all,

I've been scratch building an amp using a 7199 preamp/phase invert and
6L6GC power tubes. It's a very simple amp - I'm just doing it for the
learning process. When I finally got a signal through the circuit
(woo hoo) it had a an oscillation (407kHz) at the bottom of every sine
wave. I've been going crazy trying to troubleshoot - checking my lead
dressing, trying to eliminate ground loops, blah blah - everything
I've tried has made it worse to the point that now my signal is almost
entirely saturated with the oscillation (407 kHz). Out of desperation
I took out the 6L6's and put in a pair of 6F6's that I had laying
around...PERFECT signal, no oscillation. What the hell is wrong with
the 6L6 tubes? Do they need something specific to dampen
oscillations? HELP...

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Iain Churches Iain Churches is offline
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Posts: 462
Default Amp oscillation


"htrboy" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi all,

I've been scratch building an amp using a 7199 preamp/phase invert and
6L6GC power tubes. It's a very simple amp - I'm just doing it for the
learning process. When I finally got a signal through the circuit
(woo hoo) it had a an oscillation (407kHz) at the bottom of every sine
wave. I've been going crazy trying to troubleshoot - checking my lead
dressing, trying to eliminate ground loops, blah blah - everything
I've tried has made it worse to the point that now my signal is almost
entirely saturated with the oscillation (407 kHz). Out of desperation
I took out the 6L6's and put in a pair of 6F6's that I had laying
around...PERFECT signal, no oscillation. What the hell is wrong with
the 6L6 tubes? Do they need something specific to dampen
oscillations? HELP...



Hi.

You have come upon against the spectre of instability, which
presents quite a challenge for most hombrew builders. Is the
amp stable open loop (with the feedback circuit disconnected?)

Also, try adding some series grid resistance to the grids of the
6L6GC pair. Start with a resistor somewhere between 4k7 and 10k.
Solder this direct to the grid, as close to the tube base pins as
possible, in series with the signal. This helps to dampen high-
frequency oscillations caused by capacitance.

Circuits driven with cathode followers seem particularly prone
to the problem you describe.

The "grid stopper" as is it called reduces the HF response
of the amp, so once you have stopped the oscillation, reduce the
value of the series resistor until you find the threshold of the
oscillation.

Let us know how you get on.

Iain


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htrboy htrboy is offline
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Default Amp oscillation

On Feb 4, 9:17 pm, "Iain Churches" wrote:
"htrboy" wrote in message

oups.com...

Hi all,


I've been scratch building an amp using a 7199 preamp/phase invert and
6L6GC power tubes. It's a very simple amp - I'm just doing it for the
learning process. When I finally got a signal through the circuit
(woo hoo) it had a an oscillation (407kHz) at the bottom of every sine
wave. I've been going crazy trying to troubleshoot - checking my lead
dressing, trying to eliminate ground loops, blah blah - everything
I've tried has made it worse to the point that now my signal is almost
entirely saturated with the oscillation (407 kHz). Out of desperation
I took out the 6L6's and put in a pair of 6F6's that I had laying
around...PERFECT signal, no oscillation. What the hell is wrong with
the 6L6 tubes? Do they need something specific to dampen
oscillations? HELP...


Hi.

You have come upon against the spectre of instability, which
presents quite a challenge for most hombrew builders. Is the
amp stable open loop (with the feedback circuit disconnected?)

Also, try adding some series grid resistance to the grids of the
6L6GC pair. Start with a resistor somewhere between 4k7 and 10k.
Solder this direct to the grid, as close to the tube base pins as
possible, in series with the signal. This helps to dampen high-
frequency oscillations caused by capacitance.

Circuits driven with cathode followers seem particularly prone
to the problem you describe.

The "grid stopper" as is it called reduces the HF response
of the amp, so once you have stopped the oscillation, reduce the
value of the series resistor until you find the threshold of the
oscillation.

Let us know how you get on.

Iain


Hi lain,

Thanks for the input. I tried disconnecting the feedback circuit and
the oscillation went away, however the gain seemed to be unstable??
Just for fun I tried switching the output transformer plate
connections (maybe positive feedback was the problem?) but no - it
made things worse. The original circuit has 1k grid stop resistors at
the power tube grids, I'll try upping those as you suggest to 4.7k
(and up) and see what happens. I'm glad to have a new direction to
try - thanks!

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Patrick Turner Patrick Turner is offline
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Posts: 3,964
Default Amp oscillation



htrboy wrote:

Hi all,

I've been scratch building an amp using a 7199 preamp/phase invert and
6L6GC power tubes. It's a very simple amp - I'm just doing it for the
learning process. When I finally got a signal through the circuit
(woo hoo) it had a an oscillation (407kHz) at the bottom of every sine
wave. I've been going crazy trying to troubleshoot - checking my lead
dressing, trying to eliminate ground loops, blah blah - everything
I've tried has made it worse to the point that now my signal is almost
entirely saturated with the oscillation (407 kHz). Out of desperation
I took out the 6L6's and put in a pair of 6F6's that I had laying
around...PERFECT signal, no oscillation. What the hell is wrong with
the 6L6 tubes? Do they need something specific to dampen
oscillations? HELP...


The 6L6 has been used since about 1935 with little oscillation troubles
by
thousands of amp makers who knew more than you about amp building.
Its not going to get you anywhere to ask what is wrong with a 6L6,
because the answer is that there isn't much wrong with a 6L6, and you
should be asking
many more questions about what you may have done wrong instead.

You are not alone, and like you I once was exasperated and frustrated
with
my early attempts to build amps that then behaved like RF power
oscilators.
Only at the time, prior to 2000, when I went online, there was nobody to
share the problem with online,
and I had to damn well work out what i did wrong myself.
If I had a $ for every time someone dialed into r.a.t with a problem
about
amplifiers that oscillate, I'd be rich!

I suggest firstly that you give us a URL for the schematic of your amp,
so that we may see EXACTLY WHAT SCHEMATIC YOU HAVE RIGHT NOW.
Please check all your connections again and draw up the schematic on a
large NEAT
page in black ink on white and scan and post it somewhere, at your
website/home page if you have one,
or at a friend's, or at news groups
alternate.binaries.pictures.radio-phono or
alternate.binaries.schematics.electronic.
But for us to empathise with your bothers you have to place a lot of
effort into conveying
a suitable amount of information on which we may make comment after some
rational analysis.
Do the scan so it is a black and white format at 400dpi, and convert it
to a gif
image to keep the file size below about 100kb, and so that it fills a
screen
nicely, and is clearly legible, ie, we can all see what the numbers and
letters are.

Once you become proficient with PRODUCING schematics and reading them,
you will learn so much more it should dazzle you.

There are a pile of schematics at my website, and you are free to use
any you like at
http://www.turneraudio.com.au

Some of the schematics were hand drawn on paper, then scanned, and some
created in MS Paint,
just sitting there for hours and hours with a mouse.....



Patrick Turner.
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htrboy htrboy is offline
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Posts: 33
Default Amp oscillation

On Feb 5, 1:31 am, Patrick Turner wrote:
htrboy wrote:

Hi all,


I've been scratch building an amp using a 7199 preamp/phase invert and
6L6GC power tubes. It's a very simple amp - I'm just doing it for the
learning process. When I finally got a signal through the circuit
(woo hoo) it had a an oscillation (407kHz) at the bottom of every sine
wave. I've been going crazy trying to troubleshoot - checking my lead
dressing, trying to eliminate ground loops, blah blah - everything
I've tried has made it worse to the point that now my signal is almost
entirely saturated with the oscillation (407 kHz). Out of desperation
I took out the 6L6's and put in a pair of 6F6's that I had laying
around...PERFECT signal, no oscillation. What the hell is wrong with
the 6L6 tubes? Do they need something specific to dampen
oscillations? HELP...


The 6L6 has been used since about 1935 with little oscillation troubles
by
thousands of amp makers who knew more than you about amp building.
Its not going to get you anywhere to ask what is wrong with a 6L6,
because the answer is that there isn't much wrong with a 6L6, and you
should be asking
many more questions about what you may have done wrong instead.

You are not alone, and like you I once was exasperated and frustrated
with
my early attempts to build amps that then behaved like RF power
oscilators.
Only at the time, prior to 2000, when I went online, there was nobody to
share the problem with online,
and I had to damn well work out what i did wrong myself.
If I had a $ for every time someone dialed into r.a.t with a problem
about
amplifiers that oscillate, I'd be rich!

I suggest firstly that you give us a URL for the schematic of your amp,
so that we may see EXACTLY WHAT SCHEMATIC YOU HAVE RIGHT NOW.
Please check all your connections again and draw up the schematic on a
large NEAT
page in black ink on white and scan and post it somewhere, at your
website/home page if you have one,
or at a friend's, or at news groups
alternate.binaries.pictures.radio-phono or
alternate.binaries.schematics.electronic.
But for us to empathise with your bothers you have to place a lot of
effort into conveying
a suitable amount of information on which we may make comment after some
rational analysis.
Do the scan so it is a black and white format at 400dpi, and convert it
to a gif
image to keep the file size below about 100kb, and so that it fills a
screen
nicely, and is clearly legible, ie, we can all see what the numbers and
letters are.

Once you become proficient with PRODUCING schematics and reading them,
you will learn so much more it should dazzle you.

There are a pile of schematics at my website, and you are free to use
any you like athttp://www.turneraudio.com.au

Some of the schematics were hand drawn on paper, then scanned, and some
created in MS Paint,
just sitting there for hours and hours with a mouse.....

Patrick Turner.


Hello Patrick,

Thanks for the input. My comment about the 6L6 tubes was somewhat
tongue-in-cheek which doesn't come across in print as well as it does
in person. The schematic I used is adapted out of one of the many RCA
Receiving Tube manuals (the specific one escapes me right now). I
will try to figure out how to post a schematic as soon as possible.

Best regards.



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John Byrns John Byrns is offline
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Posts: 1,441
Default Amp oscillation

In article .com,
"htrboy" wrote:

Hi lain,

Thanks for the input. I tried disconnecting the feedback circuit and
the oscillation went away, however the gain seemed to be unstable??
Just for fun I tried switching the output transformer plate
connections (maybe positive feedback was the problem?) but no - it
made things worse. The original circuit has 1k grid stop resistors at
the power tube grids, I'll try upping those as you suggest to 4.7k
(and up) and see what happens. I'm glad to have a new direction to
try - thanks!


It sounds like you don't have the correct high frequency compensation in
your negative feedback loop, or you just have way too much feedback in
the first place, or both. I believe Patrick has explained before here
in this group how to do high frequency compensation and add a HF gain
stepping network, check the group archives on Google. Also I believe
Patrick has said he has this information on his web pages, although I
haven't checked and can't vouch for that.


Regards,

John Byrns

--
Surf my web pages at, http://fmamradios.com/
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Iain Churches Iain Churches is offline
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Posts: 462
Default Amp oscillation


"htrboy" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Feb 5, 1:31 am, Patrick Turner wrote:
htrboy wrote:

Hi all,


I've been scratch building an amp using a 7199 preamp/phase invert and
6L6GC power tubes. It's a very simple amp - I'm just doing it for the
learning process. When I finally got a signal through the circuit
(woo hoo) it had a an oscillation (407kHz) at the bottom of every sine
wave. I've been going crazy trying to troubleshoot - checking my lead
dressing, trying to eliminate ground loops, blah blah - everything
I've tried has made it worse to the point that now my signal is almost
entirely saturated with the oscillation (407 kHz). Out of desperation
I took out the 6L6's and put in a pair of 6F6's that I had laying
around...PERFECT signal, no oscillation. What the hell is wrong with
the 6L6 tubes? Do they need something specific to dampen
oscillations? HELP...


The 6L6 has been used since about 1935 with little oscillation troubles
by
thousands of amp makers who knew more than you about amp building.
Its not going to get you anywhere to ask what is wrong with a 6L6,
because the answer is that there isn't much wrong with a 6L6, and you
should be asking
many more questions about what you may have done wrong instead.

You are not alone, and like you I once was exasperated and frustrated
with
my early attempts to build amps that then behaved like RF power
oscilators.
Only at the time, prior to 2000, when I went online, there was nobody to
share the problem with online,
and I had to damn well work out what i did wrong myself.
If I had a $ for every time someone dialed into r.a.t with a problem
about
amplifiers that oscillate, I'd be rich!

I suggest firstly that you give us a URL for the schematic of your amp,
so that we may see EXACTLY WHAT SCHEMATIC YOU HAVE RIGHT NOW.
Please check all your connections again and draw up the schematic on a
large NEAT
page in black ink on white and scan and post it somewhere, at your
website/home page if you have one,
or at a friend's, or at news groups
alternate.binaries.pictures.radio-phono or
alternate.binaries.schematics.electronic.
But for us to empathise with your bothers you have to place a lot of
effort into conveying
a suitable amount of information on which we may make comment after some
rational analysis.
Do the scan so it is a black and white format at 400dpi, and convert it
to a gif
image to keep the file size below about 100kb, and so that it fills a
screen
nicely, and is clearly legible, ie, we can all see what the numbers and
letters are.

Once you become proficient with PRODUCING schematics and reading them,
you will learn so much more it should dazzle you.

There are a pile of schematics at my website, and you are free to use
any you like athttp://www.turneraudio.com.au

Some of the schematics were hand drawn on paper, then scanned, and some
created in MS Paint,
just sitting there for hours and hours with a mouse.....


Thanks for the input. My comment about the 6L6 tubes was somewhat
tongue-in-cheek which doesn't come across in print as well as it does
in person. The schematic I used is adapted out of one of the many RCA
Receiving Tube manuals (the specific one escapes me right now). I
will try to figure out how to post a schematic as soon as possible.

Best regards.


I will be happy to host the schematic for you while this thread is
being discussed, if it is of any help to you. Contact me by e-mail.
This is an interesting topic, and relevant to many many tube amp
projects.

Regards

--
Iain
www.kolumbus.fi/iain.churches


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MarkS MarkS is offline
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Posts: 81
Default Amp oscillation


"htrboy" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Feb 5, 1:31 am, Patrick Turner wrote:
htrboy wrote:

Hi all,


I've been scratch building an amp using a 7199 preamp/phase invert and
6L6GC power tubes. It's a very simple amp - I'm just doing it for the
learning process. When I finally got a signal through the circuit
(woo hoo) it had a an oscillation (407kHz) at the bottom of every sine
wave. I've been going crazy trying to troubleshoot - checking my lead
dressing, trying to eliminate ground loops, blah blah - everything
I've tried has made it worse to the point that now my signal is almost
entirely saturated with the oscillation (407 kHz). Out of desperation
I took out the 6L6's and put in a pair of 6F6's that I had laying
around...PERFECT signal, no oscillation. What the hell is wrong with
the 6L6 tubes? Do they need something specific to dampen
oscillations? HELP...


The 6L6 has been used since about 1935 with little oscillation troubles
by
thousands of amp makers who knew more than you about amp building.
Its not going to get you anywhere to ask what is wrong with a 6L6,
because the answer is that there isn't much wrong with a 6L6, and you
should be asking
many more questions about what you may have done wrong instead.

You are not alone, and like you I once was exasperated and frustrated
with
my early attempts to build amps that then behaved like RF power
oscilators.
Only at the time, prior to 2000, when I went online, there was nobody to
share the problem with online,
and I had to damn well work out what i did wrong myself.
If I had a $ for every time someone dialed into r.a.t with a problem
about
amplifiers that oscillate, I'd be rich!

I suggest firstly that you give us a URL for the schematic of your amp,
so that we may see EXACTLY WHAT SCHEMATIC YOU HAVE RIGHT NOW.
Please check all your connections again and draw up the schematic on a
large NEAT
page in black ink on white and scan and post it somewhere, at your
website/home page if you have one,
or at a friend's, or at news groups
alternate.binaries.pictures.radio-phono or
alternate.binaries.schematics.electronic.
But for us to empathise with your bothers you have to place a lot of
effort into conveying
a suitable amount of information on which we may make comment after some
rational analysis.
Do the scan so it is a black and white format at 400dpi, and convert it
to a gif
image to keep the file size below about 100kb, and so that it fills a
screen
nicely, and is clearly legible, ie, we can all see what the numbers and
letters are.

Once you become proficient with PRODUCING schematics and reading them,
you will learn so much more it should dazzle you.

There are a pile of schematics at my website, and you are free to use
any you like athttp://www.turneraudio.com.au

Some of the schematics were hand drawn on paper, then scanned, and some
created in MS Paint,
just sitting there for hours and hours with a mouse.....

Patrick Turner.


Hello Patrick,

Thanks for the input. My comment about the 6L6 tubes was somewhat
tongue-in-cheek which doesn't come across in print as well as it does
in person. The schematic I used is adapted out of one of the many RCA
Receiving Tube manuals (the specific one escapes me right now). I
will try to figure out how to post a schematic as soon as possible.

Best regards.


With 6L6's, sounds like the early 30 watt circuit. Initally, this circuit
specified 6L6 w/ a 5K pp output transformer; later, the design migrated to
7868's and 6.6K pp OPT. Is this the amp circuit?
MarkS



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htrboy htrboy is offline
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Posts: 33
Default Amp oscillation

On Feb 5, 4:04 pm, "MarkS" wrote:
"htrboy" wrote in message

ups.com...



On Feb 5, 1:31 am, Patrick Turner wrote:
htrboy wrote:


Hi all,


I've been scratch building an amp using a 7199 preamp/phase invert and
6L6GC power tubes. It's a very simple amp - I'm just doing it for the
learning process. When I finally got a signal through the circuit
(woo hoo) it had a an oscillation (407kHz) at the bottom of every sine
wave. I've been going crazy trying to troubleshoot - checking my lead
dressing, trying to eliminate ground loops, blah blah - everything
I've tried has made it worse to the point that now my signal is almost
entirely saturated with the oscillation (407 kHz). Out of desperation
I took out the 6L6's and put in a pair of 6F6's that I had laying
around...PERFECT signal, no oscillation. What the hell is wrong with
the 6L6 tubes? Do they need something specific to dampen
oscillations? HELP...


The 6L6 has been used since about 1935 with little oscillation troubles
by
thousands of amp makers who knew more than you about amp building.
Its not going to get you anywhere to ask what is wrong with a 6L6,
because the answer is that there isn't much wrong with a 6L6, and you
should be asking
many more questions about what you may have done wrong instead.


You are not alone, and like you I once was exasperated and frustrated
with
my early attempts to build amps that then behaved like RF power
oscilators.
Only at the time, prior to 2000, when I went online, there was nobody to
share the problem with online,
and I had to damn well work out what i did wrong myself.
If I had a $ for every time someone dialed into r.a.t with a problem
about
amplifiers that oscillate, I'd be rich!


I suggest firstly that you give us a URL for the schematic of your amp,
so that we may see EXACTLY WHAT SCHEMATIC YOU HAVE RIGHT NOW.
Please check all your connections again and draw up the schematic on a
large NEAT
page in black ink on white and scan and post it somewhere, at your
website/home page if you have one,
or at a friend's, or at news groups
alternate.binaries.pictures.radio-phono or
alternate.binaries.schematics.electronic.
But for us to empathise with your bothers you have to place a lot of
effort into conveying
a suitable amount of information on which we may make comment after some
rational analysis.
Do the scan so it is a black and white format at 400dpi, and convert it
to a gif
image to keep the file size below about 100kb, and so that it fills a
screen
nicely, and is clearly legible, ie, we can all see what the numbers and
letters are.


Once you become proficient with PRODUCING schematics and reading them,
you will learn so much more it should dazzle you.


There are a pile of schematics at my website, and you are free to use
any you like athttp://www.turneraudio.com.au


Some of the schematics were hand drawn on paper, then scanned, and some
created in MS Paint,
just sitting there for hours and hours with a mouse.....


Patrick Turner.


Hello Patrick,


Thanks for the input. My comment about the 6L6 tubes was somewhat
tongue-in-cheek which doesn't come across in print as well as it does
in person. The schematic I used is adapted out of one of the many RCA
Receiving Tube manuals (the specific one escapes me right now). I
will try to figure out how to post a schematic as soon as possible.


Best regards.


With 6L6's, sounds like the early 30 watt circuit. Initally, this circuit
specified 6L6 w/ a 5K pp output transformer; later, the design migrated to
7868's and 6.6K pp OPT. Is this the amp circuit?
MarkS


Yes - thats the one. It's out of the RC-20 manual. I will soon have
the schematic posted (thanks to Iain) with the alterations I had to
make in the power supply circuit.

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Mark S Mark S is offline
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Posts: 31
Default Amp oscillation

snip for brevity
Hello Patrick,


Thanks for the input. My comment about the 6L6 tubes was somewhat
tongue-in-cheek which doesn't come across in print as well as it does
in person. The schematic I used is adapted out of one of the many RCA
Receiving Tube manuals (the specific one escapes me right now). I
will try to figure out how to post a schematic as soon as possible.


Best regards.


With 6L6's, sounds like the early 30 watt circuit. Initally, this circuit
specified 6L6 w/ a 5K pp output transformer; later, the design migrated
to
7868's and 6.6K pp OPT. Is this the amp circuit?
MarkS


Yes - thats the one. It's out of the RC-20 manual. I will soon have
the schematic posted (thanks to Iain) with the alterations I had to
make in the power supply circuit.


Wow, that's the first circuit I built! 30 years ago...*sigh*. I first saw it
in an RC-19 manual. In that version, they had PS electrolytic C10 polarity
backwards! Did that transfer over to RC-20? In any case, I ended up building
the later version with the 7868's. I did not have any high frequency
oscillation problems but low frequency stability took awhile to figure out.
What type output transformer are you using? This circuit feeds the pentode
voltage amplifier screen grid from the phase splitter cathode through a
resistor for a local feedback arrangement, that is somewhat unusual.
MarkS




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htrboy htrboy is offline
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Posts: 33
Default Amp oscillation

On Feb 5, 5:30 pm, "Mark S" wrote:
snip for brevity



Hello Patrick,


Thanks for the input. My comment about the 6L6 tubes was somewhat
tongue-in-cheek which doesn't come across in print as well as it does
in person. The schematic I used is adapted out of one of the many RCA
Receiving Tube manuals (the specific one escapes me right now). I
will try to figure out how to post a schematic as soon as possible.


Best regards.


With 6L6's, sounds like the early 30 watt circuit. Initally, this circuit
specified 6L6 w/ a 5K pp output transformer; later, the design migrated
to
7868's and 6.6K pp OPT. Is this the amp circuit?
MarkS


Yes - thats the one. It's out of the RC-20 manual. I will soon have
the schematic posted (thanks to Iain) with the alterations I had to
make in the power supply circuit.


Wow, that's the first circuit I built! 30 years ago...*sigh*. I first saw it
in an RC-19 manual. In that version, they had PS electrolytic C10 polarity
backwards! Did that transfer over to RC-20? In any case, I ended up building
the later version with the 7868's. I did not have any high frequency
oscillation problems but low frequency stability took awhile to figure out.
What type output transformer are you using? This circuit feeds the pentode
voltage amplifier screen grid from the phase splitter cathode through a
resistor for a local feedback arrangement, that is somewhat unusual.
MarkS


Hi Mark,

C10's polarity is correct in this schematic...I actually omitted that
cap, thinking I didn't need it (I'm using solid-state rectification),
but maybe I need it after all? It looks like it bypasses R20, the
large bias resistor. My output transformer is from an old Fisher and
is supposedly 5k input impedance. I bought it through Ebay so I don't
know for sure what its out of.

It looks like most of Fisher's recievers use 7591's which are 6.6k
impedance (like the 7868's). It'll be much easier to ask questions
once I get the schematic up, but I have a disturbing voltage reading
on the screen grid of one of the 6L6 tubes. It's reading 75 volts
compared to 278 volts for its mate. Have I destroyed the tube?

--Scott

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Patrick Turner Patrick Turner is offline
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Posts: 3,964
Default Amp oscillation



htrboy wrote:

On Feb 5, 1:31 am, Patrick Turner wrote:
htrboy wrote:

Hi all,


I've been scratch building an amp using a 7199 preamp/phase invert and
6L6GC power tubes. It's a very simple amp - I'm just doing it for the
learning process. When I finally got a signal through the circuit
(woo hoo) it had a an oscillation (407kHz) at the bottom of every sine
wave. I've been going crazy trying to troubleshoot - checking my lead
dressing, trying to eliminate ground loops, blah blah - everything
I've tried has made it worse to the point that now my signal is almost
entirely saturated with the oscillation (407 kHz). Out of desperation
I took out the 6L6's and put in a pair of 6F6's that I had laying
around...PERFECT signal, no oscillation. What the hell is wrong with
the 6L6 tubes? Do they need something specific to dampen
oscillations? HELP...


The 6L6 has been used since about 1935 with little oscillation troubles
by
thousands of amp makers who knew more than you about amp building.
Its not going to get you anywhere to ask what is wrong with a 6L6,
because the answer is that there isn't much wrong with a 6L6, and you
should be asking
many more questions about what you may have done wrong instead.

You are not alone, and like you I once was exasperated and frustrated
with
my early attempts to build amps that then behaved like RF power
oscilators.
Only at the time, prior to 2000, when I went online, there was nobody to
share the problem with online,
and I had to damn well work out what i did wrong myself.
If I had a $ for every time someone dialed into r.a.t with a problem
about
amplifiers that oscillate, I'd be rich!

I suggest firstly that you give us a URL for the schematic of your amp,
so that we may see EXACTLY WHAT SCHEMATIC YOU HAVE RIGHT NOW.
Please check all your connections again and draw up the schematic on a
large NEAT
page in black ink on white and scan and post it somewhere, at your
website/home page if you have one,
or at a friend's, or at news groups
alternate.binaries.pictures.radio-phono or
alternate.binaries.schematics.electronic.
But for us to empathise with your bothers you have to place a lot of
effort into conveying
a suitable amount of information on which we may make comment after some
rational analysis.
Do the scan so it is a black and white format at 400dpi, and convert it
to a gif
image to keep the file size below about 100kb, and so that it fills a
screen
nicely, and is clearly legible, ie, we can all see what the numbers and
letters are.

Once you become proficient with PRODUCING schematics and reading them,
you will learn so much more it should dazzle you.

There are a pile of schematics at my website, and you are free to use
any you like athttp://www.turneraudio.com.au

Some of the schematics were hand drawn on paper, then scanned, and some
created in MS Paint,
just sitting there for hours and hours with a mouse.....

Patrick Turner.


Hello Patrick,

Thanks for the input. My comment about the 6L6 tubes was somewhat
tongue-in-cheek which doesn't come across in print as well as it does
in person. The schematic I used is adapted out of one of the many RCA
Receiving Tube manuals (the specific one escapes me right now). I
will try to figure out how to post a schematic as soon as possible.

Best regards.


I have a few RCA books with schematics within.

What is the exact number/description of the schematic?

Patrick Turner.
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"htrboy" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Feb 5, 5:30 pm, "Mark S" wrote:
snip for brevity



Hello Patrick,


Thanks for the input. My comment about the 6L6 tubes was somewhat
tongue-in-cheek which doesn't come across in print as well as it

does
in person. The schematic I used is adapted out of one of the many

RCA
Receiving Tube manuals (the specific one escapes me right now). I
will try to figure out how to post a schematic as soon as possible.


Best regards.


With 6L6's, sounds like the early 30 watt circuit. Initally, this

circuit
specified 6L6 w/ a 5K pp output transformer; later, the design

migrated
to
7868's and 6.6K pp OPT. Is this the amp circuit?
MarkS


Yes - thats the one. It's out of the RC-20 manual. I will soon have
the schematic posted (thanks to Iain) with the alterations I had to
make in the power supply circuit.


Wow, that's the first circuit I built! 30 years ago...*sigh*. I first

saw it
in an RC-19 manual. In that version, they had PS electrolytic C10

polarity
backwards! Did that transfer over to RC-20? In any case, I ended up

building
the later version with the 7868's. I did not have any high frequency
oscillation problems but low frequency stability took awhile to figure

out.
What type output transformer are you using? This circuit feeds the

pentode
voltage amplifier screen grid from the phase splitter cathode through a
resistor for a local feedback arrangement, that is somewhat unusual.
MarkS


Hi Mark,

C10's polarity is correct in this schematic...I actually omitted that
cap, thinking I didn't need it (I'm using solid-state rectification),
but maybe I need it after all? It looks like it bypasses R20, the
large bias resistor. My output transformer is from an old Fisher and
is supposedly 5k input impedance. I bought it through Ebay so I don't
know for sure what its out of.

It looks like most of Fisher's recievers use 7591's which are 6.6k
impedance (like the 7868's). It'll be much easier to ask questions
once I get the schematic up, but I have a disturbing voltage reading
on the screen grid of one of the 6L6 tubes. It's reading 75 volts
compared to 278 volts for its mate. Have I destroyed the tube?

--Scott


Scott,
Check the screen dropping resistors R16 & R17. As I remember, 1/2w resistors
may not hold up too well and you may have fried one of them.
MarkS


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"Patrick Turner" wrote in message
...

I have a few RCA books with schematics within.

What is the exact number/description of the schematic?

Patrick Turner.


The OP has promised to send me a scan of the schematic which I
will host and post a link as soon as it can be seen.

I think it would be to the benefit of everyone if we could all see the
schematic as it is being discussed. This is a very interesting thread from
which much can be learned.

Iain



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On Feb 6, 8:07 am, "Iain Churches" wrote:
"Patrick Turner" wrote in message

...



I have a few RCA books with schematics within.


What is the exact number/description of the schematic?


Patrick Turner.


The OP has promised to send me a scan of the schematic which I
will host and post a link as soon as it can be seen.

I think it would be to the benefit of everyone if we could all see the
schematic as it is being discussed. This is a very interesting thread from
which much can be learned.

Iain


My apologies for the delay - the scanner I use is at my place of
work. Yesterday I got caught up in business as usual and couldn't get
it done...This afternoon for sure!!

Thanks for all the help and attention so far...

Scott



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In article k.net,
"Mark S" wrote:

Wow, that's the first circuit I built! 30 years ago...*sigh*. I first saw it
in an RC-19 manual. In that version, they had PS electrolytic C10 polarity
backwards! Did that transfer over to RC-20?


Yes, the polarity of C10 is backwards in my copy of the RC-20 manual.


Regards,

John Byrns

--
Surf my web pages at, http://fmamradios.com/
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On Feb 6, 8:07 am, "Iain Churches" wrote:
"Patrick Turner" wrote in message

...



I have a few RCA books with schematics within.


What is the exact number/description of the schematic?


Patrick Turner.


The OP has promised to send me a scan of the schematic which I
will host and post a link as soon as it can be seen.

I think it would be to the benefit of everyone if we could all see the
schematic as it is being discussed. This is a very interesting thread from
which much can be learned.

Iain


I emailed it this afternoon - please let me know if the quality is
acceptable, I can probably darken it up if needed.

Thanks
Scott

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On Feb 6, 4:25 am, "MarkS" wrote:
"htrboy" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Feb 5, 5:30 pm, "Mark S" wrote:
snip for brevity


Hello Patrick,


Thanks for the input. My comment about the 6L6 tubes was somewhat
tongue-in-cheek which doesn't come across in print as well as it

does
in person. The schematic I used is adapted out of one of the many

RCA
Receiving Tube manuals (the specific one escapes me right now). I
will try to figure out how to post a schematic as soon as possible.


Best regards.


With 6L6's, sounds like the early 30 watt circuit. Initally, this

circuit
specified 6L6 w/ a 5K pp output transformer; later, the design

migrated
to
7868's and 6.6K pp OPT. Is this the amp circuit?
MarkS


Yes - thats the one. It's out of the RC-20 manual. I will soon have
the schematic posted (thanks to Iain) with the alterations I had to
make in the power supply circuit.


Wow, that's the first circuit I built! 30 years ago...*sigh*. I first

saw it
in an RC-19 manual. In that version, they had PS electrolytic C10

polarity
backwards! Did that transfer over to RC-20? In any case, I ended up

building
the later version with the 7868's. I did not have any high frequency
oscillation problems but low frequency stability took awhile to figure

out.
What type output transformer are you using? This circuit feeds the

pentode
voltage amplifier screen grid from the phase splitter cathode through a
resistor for a local feedback arrangement, that is somewhat unusual.
MarkS


Hi Mark,


C10's polarity is correct in this schematic...I actually omitted that
cap, thinking I didn't need it (I'm using solid-state rectification),
but maybe I need it after all? It looks like it bypasses R20, the
large bias resistor. My output transformer is from an old Fisher and
is supposedly 5k input impedance. I bought it through Ebay so I don't
know for sure what its out of.


It looks like most of Fisher's recievers use 7591's which are 6.6k
impedance (like the 7868's). It'll be much easier to ask questions
once I get the schematic up, but I have a disturbing voltage reading
on the screen grid of one of the 6L6 tubes. It's reading 75 volts
compared to 278 volts for its mate. Have I destroyed the tube?


--Scott


Scott,
Check the screen dropping resistors R16 & R17. As I remember, 1/2w resistors
may not hold up too well and you may have fried one of them.
MarkS


You nailed this one - one was open and the other one shorted. Now
where was that 24 hour electronics shop...

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"htrboy" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Feb 6, 8:07 am, "Iain Churches" wrote:
"Patrick Turner" wrote in message

...



I have a few RCA books with schematics within.


What is the exact number/description of the schematic?


Patrick Turner.


The OP has promised to send me a scan of the schematic which I
will host and post a link as soon as it can be seen.

I think it would be to the benefit of everyone if we could all see the
schematic as it is being discussed. This is a very interesting thread
from
which much can be learned.

Iain


I emailed it this afternoon - please let me know if the quality is
acceptable, I can probably darken it up if needed.

Thanks
Scott



Not too good:-) I will post it, and wait for an replacement from you.

Iain


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"htrboy" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Feb 6, 8:07 am, "Iain Churches" wrote:
"Patrick Turner" wrote in message

...



I have a few RCA books with schematics within.


What is the exact number/description of the schematic?


Patrick Turner.


The OP has promised to send me a scan of the schematic which I
will host and post a link as soon as it can be seen.

I think it would be to the benefit of everyone if we could all see the
schematic as it is being discussed. This is a very interesting thread
from
which much can be learned.

Iain


I emailed it this afternoon - please let me know if the quality is
acceptable, I can probably darken it up if needed.


The contrast is not ideal:-)
The schematic is at:

http://www.kolumbus.fi/iain.churches/Pics/Schematics/Scott'sAmp


Iain

Thanks
Scott





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Patrick Turner Patrick Turner is offline
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Posts: 3,964
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Iain Churches wrote:

"htrboy" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Feb 6, 8:07 am, "Iain Churches" wrote:
"Patrick Turner" wrote in message

...



I have a few RCA books with schematics within.

What is the exact number/description of the schematic?

Patrick Turner.

The OP has promised to send me a scan of the schematic which I
will host and post a link as soon as it can be seen.

I think it would be to the benefit of everyone if we could all see the
schematic as it is being discussed. This is a very interesting thread
from
which much can be learned.

Iain


I emailed it this afternoon - please let me know if the quality is
acceptable, I can probably darken it up if needed.


The contrast is not ideal:-)
The schematic is at:

http://www.kolumbus.fi/iain.churches/Pics/Schematics/Scott'sAmp

Iain



There are a few things wrong with the schematic which has low contrast
but is otherwise
quite readable and understandable.
Next time anyone submits a schematic like this they should use *black
ink pen*
on white pape. The best way is to draw it up lightly in pencil and
triple check
for mistakes before over drawing in ink, and then erazing the pencil
away with a rubber.

The amount of paper space on the schematic is quite large enough to have
the C&R numbers
*plus* ohm/uF values so that reading it is easier, and size could be
trimmed to tit *one screenful*.

Even though you have a triode-pentode tube for the input-driver-phase
inverter,
consider drawing the pentode away from the triode which makes a mistake
less likely
when tracing the circuit and makes it all easier to understand.

My RCA Receiving Tube Manual copywrite 1966 has the same schematic
on page 549 but with 7868 output tubes and 7199 tri-pent input tube.


This shematic has a couple of things which are queer.
The screen of V1 gets its dc feed from the cathode of V2 triode via
180k,
and so if the dc rises on V2k, Va lowers on V1, and rises more on V2k so
it looks like
dc positive FB to me, and could cause LF oscillation so I would have
instead
about 1M to Vi screen from the anode B+ supply to this tube.

Then R9, 1k, can be omitted since for equal +/- phase amplitudes the
anode RL and cathode RL should be equal.

R16&17 are screen stoppers and shown 56 ohms, and these won't stop much.
Increase these R to 470 ohms, 1 watt at least.

Stoppers to output grids, R14,15, should be 2k7 to 4k7, not 1k as shown,
which won't stop much, because Cin to the
pentode or beam tetrode output tubes is very low.

The 820 ohm biasing resistance to V1 pentode may work better with 220uF
across it which would
allow R18, 270 ohm GNFB resistance to be increased to about 470 ohms and
C6 to be lower, see below.

Vitally important and difficult to judge is the value for C6 HF phase
tweaking FB cap across
GNB resistor of 270 ohms; its shown as 0.012uF, but might better be
0.0022uF.

C2 HF gain stepping cap in series with R10, 15k, is shown as 22pF, and
is also difficult to verify,
but up to about 100pF may be right.

The best values for R10 and C2 must be ascertained experimentally
with a 50k pot mounted on variable radio tuning gang, and when stablity
with 0.22 uF across the output
is achieved along with maximal bandwidth into a resistance load is
achieved
then the varied R and C values are measured and fixed values soldered
in.

That's the part that 120% of novices always get wrong, unless they learn
about the functions of such R&C compensation networks,
and why they are necessary, which is better explained elswhere, and in
some detail to confuse the novice even more at
http://www.turneraudio.com.au

The reason why the values are shown as they are by RCA is to provide a
**guide only** to good practices.

Exact values *WILL* have to be different according to the
characteristics of the OPT chosen in terms of its
primary inductance, leakage inductance, and shunt capacitances.

RCA were not in any position in 1965 to provide enough data on what YOU
may do some 40 years later.

Hmm, rockets to the moon occured 3 years after 1966. Methinks the then
old dudes
who wrote the RCA tube book are all now dead, and cannot comment on
*THEIR WONDERFUL CONTRIBUTIONS*
to tube craft.


The RCA schematic shown was a forerunner of the Dynaco ST70 schematic
which also used a
triode + pentode input tube but which supercharged the circuit by
bootsrapping of the
pentode anode load to the phase inverter cathode circuit thus providing
a much higher load value to the pentode anode
and thus much higher pentode gain. It was a not so obnoxious use of
internal positive FB.
The ST70 had lower gain UL output circuitry, so with bootstrapping the
circuit could be made to be sensitive despite the GNFB and lack of gain
in the output stage.

The RCA circuit has more gain in the output circuit so there seems
little need to increase the pentode gain
by bootstrapping, and so the RCA circuit is simpler, and easier to get
right.

Having C2 too large is a sure recipe for having oscillations at 400kHz
or thereabouts, so if anything
it should only be large enough to prevent overshoot on square waves with
a pure R load.
The C2 value across R 10 should only be large enough to prevent
oscillations on any value of pure C across the output without any R
present.

Its impossible to get a a perfect square wave with such "compensation"
capacitors connected,
but a perfect square wave isn't what you want. You want
full power bandwidth from 20Hz to 20kHz, that is enough, and into a
solely resistance only load.

There will be some overshoot on square waves when you have the circuit
working OK when a pure
C load of typically 0.22 uF is used but that is just a natural function
of the circuit you effectively have created,
because every amplifier is a *BAND PASS FILTER* whether you like it or
not, and dc can't pass, and
nor can much 1Mhz. the roll off at HF may be slightly more than
6dB/octave above say 50kHz.
Filters with roll off slopes outside the -3dB point, or "pole" may have
a slope exceeding first order,
or 6dB/octave, ie, perhaps 9 or 12dB/octave, and such filters produce
ringing or overshoot on square waves.
The ringing frequency should be well above the audio band, and 60kHz is
OK.

Maximal overshoot should be 6dB more than the level part of the square
wave when the
wave has "settled" when using a 5 kHz square wave.

What one is always looking for is widest bandwidth between
-3dB LF and HF poles, and at the highest output voltage equal to 1 bD
below the 1 kHz sine wave clipping level.

Then you want minimal freedom from square wave overshoot, with any C
value betaeen 0.05uF and 5uF.

Also wanted is freedom from peaks in the sine wave response outside the
pass band of 20Hz to 20kHz.
Such response peaks should not exceed 1dB at LF below 20Hz, nore exceed
6dB at any F above
20kHz even with any C value used as the load.

Using combined R and C loads in parallel will make the amp look a lot
better than it may be, but if
capacitances of 0.22uF can be placed across the output without making
the amp oscillate
at say 150kH or any HF, then it will be stable into any other
combination of R&C in parallel,
or in series.

A test load for ESL driving is usually about 1.5ohms in series with say
16ohms & 2uF in parallel.
So even at 100kHz, the load has reverted to being mainly resistive with
1.5ohms,
because the 2uF Z has become 0.8ohms.

You need to have basic knowledge about R&C and filter behaviour and
about relative impedance effects in filters
to more fully understand what you are doing if you are to easily furnish
your sound lounge with
a DIYNSPA, a do it yourself non smoke producing amp.

Some ESL C value is a lot greater, and may load the amp more adversly
than the above which is a
a simplistic simulated load for Quad ESL57.
Martin Logan are not so easy on an amp.


Patrick Turner.





Scott

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"Iain Churches" wrote in message
i...

"htrboy" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Feb 6, 8:07 am, "Iain Churches" wrote:
"Patrick Turner" wrote in message

...



I have a few RCA books with schematics within.

What is the exact number/description of the schematic?

Patrick Turner.

The OP has promised to send me a scan of the schematic which I
will host and post a link as soon as it can be seen.

I think it would be to the benefit of everyone if we could all see the
schematic as it is being discussed. This is a very interesting thread
from
which much can be learned.

Iain


I emailed it this afternoon - please let me know if the quality is
acceptable, I can probably darken it up if needed.


The contrast is not ideal:-)
The schematic is at:

http://www.kolumbus.fi/iain.churches/Pics/Schematics/Scott'sAmp


Iain

Thanks
Scott


Scott,
Looks like the 220 ohm 10w resistor is tied to the grids not tbe cathodes of
the 6L6's, is that a miss print? If not, that needs to be corrected before
doing anything else. Otherwise, you're running with 0 bias.
Mark



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snipped

Patrick, thank you for all the great tips and feedback (so to speak).
This is the first tube amp I have attempted to build, and I expected
to make mistakes. I am an electronics technician by trade and
training and in this day and age, that means I deal mostly with 1's
and 0's. While I have a basic knowledge of this stuff, I needed /
wanted to build this thing to try and work through the problems and
better understand what I learned in school about the fundamentals
(that, and at heart I'm an analog nut). So, I'll try to take what I
translate to be shots at my ignorance to heart and *really* try to
work through the details of your post. I REALLY DO appreciate the
knowledge being shared!

best regards,
Scott





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On Feb 7, 3:24 am, "MarkS" wrote:
"Iain Churches" wrote in message

i...





"htrboy" wrote in message
roups.com...
On Feb 6, 8:07 am, "Iain Churches" wrote:
"Patrick Turner" wrote in message


...


I have a few RCA books with schematics within.


What is the exact number/description of the schematic?


Patrick Turner.


The OP has promised to send me a scan of the schematic which I
will host and post a link as soon as it can be seen.


I think it would be to the benefit of everyone if we could all see the
schematic as it is being discussed. This is a very interesting thread
from
which much can be learned.


Iain


I emailed it this afternoon - please let me know if the quality is
acceptable, I can probably darken it up if needed.


The contrast is not ideal:-)
The schematic is at:


http://www.kolumbus.fi/iain.churches/Pics/Schematics/Scott'sAmp


Iain


Thanks
Scott


Scott,
Looks like the 220 ohm 10w resistor is tied to the grids not tbe cathodes of
the 6L6's, is that a miss print? If not, that needs to be corrected before
doing anything else. Otherwise, you're running with 0 bias.
Mark


Hi Mark,

That part of the circuit is a point of confusion for me since the
original circuit was tube rectified. I am going to construct a
negative voltage circuit using one of the PT taps and run it to the
grids. The design isn't supposed to be cathode biased.

Best regards,
Scott

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This shematic has a couple of things which are queer.



The best values for R10 and C2 must be ascertained experimentally
with a 50k pot mounted on variable radio tuning gang, and when stablity
with 0.22 uF across the output
is achieved along with maximal bandwidth into a resistance load is
achieved
then the varied R and C values are measured and fixed values soldered
in.


Could you elaborate on how to do this? I have a large tuning cap and
50K pot that I can use...

That's the part that 120% of novices always get wrong, unless they learn
about the functions of such R&C compensation networks,
and why they are necessary, which is better explained elswhere, and in
some detail to confuse the novice even more athttp://www.turneraudio.com.au


I'll be digesting the info on your site for a while...


The RCA schematic shown was a forerunner of the Dynaco ST70 schematic
which also used a
triode + pentode input tube but which supercharged the circuit by
bootsrapping of the
pentode anode load to the phase inverter cathode circuit thus providing
a much higher load value to the pentode anode
and thus much higher pentode gain. It was a not so obnoxious use of
internal positive FB.
The ST70 had lower gain UL output circuitry, so with bootstrapping the
circuit could be made to be sensitive despite the GNFB and lack of gain
in the output stage.


Could you explain what you mean by Bootstrapping - my definition has
to do with starting up a PC

Please see above for my questions inserted ^

Best regards,
Scott




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In article ,
Patrick Turner wrote:

This shematic has a couple of things which are queer.
The screen of V1 gets its dc feed from the cathode of V2 triode via
180k,
and so if the dc rises on V2k, Va lowers on V1, and rises more on V2k so
it looks like
dc positive FB to me, and could cause LF oscillation so I would have
instead
about 1M to Vi screen from the anode B+ supply to this tube.


This feedback is actually negative, when Va lowers on V1 then V2k also
lowers, lowering the voltage on the screen grid which raises Va on V1
off setting the original lowering of Va on V1, this is negative feedback.

Did you notice with respect to the C10 polarity issue that there is no
negative bias at all on the grids of the 6L6s in this modified
schematic? The circuit should either be restored to its original
backbias configuration, or C10 and the 220 Ohm resistor should be placed
in the cathode circuit of the 6L6s.


Regards,

John Byrns






Then R9, 1k, can be omitted since for equal +/- phase amplitudes the
anode RL and cathode RL should be equal.

R16&17 are screen stoppers and shown 56 ohms, and these won't stop much.
Increase these R to 470 ohms, 1 watt at least.

Stoppers to output grids, R14,15, should be 2k7 to 4k7, not 1k as shown,
which won't stop much, because Cin to the
pentode or beam tetrode output tubes is very low.

The 820 ohm biasing resistance to V1 pentode may work better with 220uF
across it which would
allow R18, 270 ohm GNFB resistance to be increased to about 470 ohms and
C6 to be lower, see below.

Vitally important and difficult to judge is the value for C6 HF phase
tweaking FB cap across
GNB resistor of 270 ohms; its shown as 0.012uF, but might better be
0.0022uF.

C2 HF gain stepping cap in series with R10, 15k, is shown as 22pF, and
is also difficult to verify,
but up to about 100pF may be right.

The best values for R10 and C2 must be ascertained experimentally
with a 50k pot mounted on variable radio tuning gang, and when stablity
with 0.22 uF across the output
is achieved along with maximal bandwidth into a resistance load is
achieved
then the varied R and C values are measured and fixed values soldered
in.

That's the part that 120% of novices always get wrong, unless they learn
about the functions of such R&C compensation networks,
and why they are necessary, which is better explained elswhere, and in
some detail to confuse the novice even more at
http://www.turneraudio.com.au

The reason why the values are shown as they are by RCA is to provide a
**guide only** to good practices.

Exact values *WILL* have to be different according to the
characteristics of the OPT chosen in terms of its
primary inductance, leakage inductance, and shunt capacitances.

RCA were not in any position in 1965 to provide enough data on what YOU
may do some 40 years later.

Hmm, rockets to the moon occured 3 years after 1966. Methinks the then
old dudes
who wrote the RCA tube book are all now dead, and cannot comment on
*THEIR WONDERFUL CONTRIBUTIONS*
to tube craft.


The RCA schematic shown was a forerunner of the Dynaco ST70 schematic
which also used a
triode + pentode input tube but which supercharged the circuit by
bootsrapping of the
pentode anode load to the phase inverter cathode circuit thus providing
a much higher load value to the pentode anode
and thus much higher pentode gain. It was a not so obnoxious use of
internal positive FB.
The ST70 had lower gain UL output circuitry, so with bootstrapping the
circuit could be made to be sensitive despite the GNFB and lack of gain
in the output stage.

The RCA circuit has more gain in the output circuit so there seems
little need to increase the pentode gain
by bootstrapping, and so the RCA circuit is simpler, and easier to get
right.

Having C2 too large is a sure recipe for having oscillations at 400kHz
or thereabouts, so if anything
it should only be large enough to prevent overshoot on square waves with
a pure R load.
The C2 value across R 10 should only be large enough to prevent
oscillations on any value of pure C across the output without any R
present.

Its impossible to get a a perfect square wave with such "compensation"
capacitors connected,
but a perfect square wave isn't what you want. You want
full power bandwidth from 20Hz to 20kHz, that is enough, and into a
solely resistance only load.

There will be some overshoot on square waves when you have the circuit
working OK when a pure
C load of typically 0.22 uF is used but that is just a natural function
of the circuit you effectively have created,
because every amplifier is a *BAND PASS FILTER* whether you like it or
not, and dc can't pass, and
nor can much 1Mhz. the roll off at HF may be slightly more than
6dB/octave above say 50kHz.
Filters with roll off slopes outside the -3dB point, or "pole" may have
a slope exceeding first order,
or 6dB/octave, ie, perhaps 9 or 12dB/octave, and such filters produce
ringing or overshoot on square waves.
The ringing frequency should be well above the audio band, and 60kHz is
OK.

Maximal overshoot should be 6dB more than the level part of the square
wave when the
wave has "settled" when using a 5 kHz square wave.

What one is always looking for is widest bandwidth between
-3dB LF and HF poles, and at the highest output voltage equal to 1 bD
below the 1 kHz sine wave clipping level.

Then you want minimal freedom from square wave overshoot, with any C
value betaeen 0.05uF and 5uF.

Also wanted is freedom from peaks in the sine wave response outside the
pass band of 20Hz to 20kHz.
Such response peaks should not exceed 1dB at LF below 20Hz, nore exceed
6dB at any F above
20kHz even with any C value used as the load.

Using combined R and C loads in parallel will make the amp look a lot
better than it may be, but if
capacitances of 0.22uF can be placed across the output without making
the amp oscillate
at say 150kH or any HF, then it will be stable into any other
combination of R&C in parallel,
or in series.

A test load for ESL driving is usually about 1.5ohms in series with say
16ohms & 2uF in parallel.
So even at 100kHz, the load has reverted to being mainly resistive with
1.5ohms,
because the 2uF Z has become 0.8ohms.

You need to have basic knowledge about R&C and filter behaviour and
about relative impedance effects in filters
to more fully understand what you are doing if you are to easily furnish
your sound lounge with
a DIYNSPA, a do it yourself non smoke producing amp.

Some ESL C value is a lot greater, and may load the amp more adversly
than the above which is a
a simplistic simulated load for Quad ESL57.
Martin Logan are not so easy on an amp.


Patrick Turner.





Scott


--
Surf my web pages at, http://fmamradios.com/
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John Byrns John Byrns is offline
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Default Amp oscillation

In article om,
"htrboy" wrote:

On Feb 7, 3:24 am, "MarkS" wrote:

Scott,
Looks like the 220 ohm 10w resistor is tied to the grids not tbe cathodes of
the 6L6's, is that a miss print? If not, that needs to be corrected before
doing anything else. Otherwise, you're running with 0 bias.
Mark


Hi Mark,

That part of the circuit is a point of confusion for me since the
original circuit was tube rectified. I am going to construct a
negative voltage circuit using one of the PT taps and run it to the
grids. The design isn't supposed to be cathode biased.


The original RCA design (20-13) used what is called "backbias". In a
simple amplifier like this where almost all of the current drain comes
from the output stage this is essentially equivalent to cathode bias, at
least as far as the DC conditions go. I would recommend restoring R20
and C10 to their original positions in the circuit, note the the
negative lead of C10 should connect to the power transformer center tap
which connects to the 6L6 grid resistors. The use of the backbias
circuit has nothing to do with the use of a rectifier tube, it will work
just fine with your solid state rectifiers. The back bias circuit will
be more forgiving to get operating initially, if you want to go to fixed
bias do that later after you get the amplifier up and running as
originally designed. It will be better to initially concentrate on
issues like getting the NFB properly stabilized before tackling changes
to the design.


Regards,

John Byrns

--
Surf my web pages at, http://fmamradios.com/
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Iain Churches Iain Churches is offline
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Default Amp oscillation


"Patrick Turner" wrote in message
...


There are a few things wrong with the schematic which has low contrast
but is otherwise
quite readable and understandable.
Next time anyone submits a schematic like this they should use *black
ink pen*
on white pape. The best way is to draw it up lightly in pencil and
triple check
for mistakes before over drawing in ink, and then erazing the pencil
away with a rubber.


Scott has now sent me a better scan of the schematic which is at:

http://www.kolumbus.fi/iain.churches/Pics/Schematics/Scott'sAmp2.gif

Iain


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Chicklets Joe Chicklets Joe is offline
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Default Amp oscillation

"Htrboy scribbled;

"htrboy" wrote in message
ups.com...

snip
snip
snip
This shematic has a couple of things which are queer


Best regards,
Scott

Scott, why don't you stuff the 7199 tube and build a Williamson driver
with octal
6SN7 or minature 6CG7 or 12AU7 tubes ????...............GC



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MarkS MarkS is offline
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Default Amp oscillation


"John Byrns" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Patrick Turner wrote:

This shematic has a couple of things which are queer.
The screen of V1 gets its dc feed from the cathode of V2 triode via
180k,
and so if the dc rises on V2k, Va lowers on V1, and rises more on V2k so
it looks like
dc positive FB to me, and could cause LF oscillation so I would have
instead
about 1M to Vi screen from the anode B+ supply to this tube.


This feedback is actually negative, when Va lowers on V1 then V2k also
lowers, lowering the voltage on the screen grid which raises Va on V1
off setting the original lowering of Va on V1, this is negative feedback.

Did you notice with respect to the C10 polarity issue that there is no
negative bias at all on the grids of the 6L6s in this modified
schematic? The circuit should either be restored to its original
backbias configuration, or C10 and the 220 Ohm resistor should be placed
in the cathode circuit of the 6L6s.


Regards,

John Byrns


Scott,
Returning the circuit to its original form as John suggests is a good idea
and starting point if you will. In fact, RCA refering to the circuit as
"fixed bias" is a bit of a stretch.
Mark



Then R9, 1k, can be omitted since for equal +/- phase amplitudes the
anode RL and cathode RL should be equal.

R16&17 are screen stoppers and shown 56 ohms, and these won't stop much.
Increase these R to 470 ohms, 1 watt at least.

Stoppers to output grids, R14,15, should be 2k7 to 4k7, not 1k as shown,
which won't stop much, because Cin to the
pentode or beam tetrode output tubes is very low.

The 820 ohm biasing resistance to V1 pentode may work better with 220uF
across it which would
allow R18, 270 ohm GNFB resistance to be increased to about 470 ohms and
C6 to be lower, see below.

Vitally important and difficult to judge is the value for C6 HF phase
tweaking FB cap across
GNB resistor of 270 ohms; its shown as 0.012uF, but might better be
0.0022uF.

C2 HF gain stepping cap in series with R10, 15k, is shown as 22pF, and
is also difficult to verify,
but up to about 100pF may be right.

The best values for R10 and C2 must be ascertained experimentally
with a 50k pot mounted on variable radio tuning gang, and when stablity
with 0.22 uF across the output
is achieved along with maximal bandwidth into a resistance load is
achieved
then the varied R and C values are measured and fixed values soldered
in.

That's the part that 120% of novices always get wrong, unless they learn
about the functions of such R&C compensation networks,
and why they are necessary, which is better explained elswhere, and in
some detail to confuse the novice even more at
http://www.turneraudio.com.au

The reason why the values are shown as they are by RCA is to provide a
**guide only** to good practices.

Exact values *WILL* have to be different according to the
characteristics of the OPT chosen in terms of its
primary inductance, leakage inductance, and shunt capacitances.

RCA were not in any position in 1965 to provide enough data on what YOU
may do some 40 years later.

Hmm, rockets to the moon occured 3 years after 1966. Methinks the then
old dudes
who wrote the RCA tube book are all now dead, and cannot comment on
*THEIR WONDERFUL CONTRIBUTIONS*
to tube craft.


The RCA schematic shown was a forerunner of the Dynaco ST70 schematic
which also used a
triode + pentode input tube but which supercharged the circuit by
bootsrapping of the
pentode anode load to the phase inverter cathode circuit thus providing
a much higher load value to the pentode anode
and thus much higher pentode gain. It was a not so obnoxious use of
internal positive FB.
The ST70 had lower gain UL output circuitry, so with bootstrapping the
circuit could be made to be sensitive despite the GNFB and lack of gain
in the output stage.

The RCA circuit has more gain in the output circuit so there seems
little need to increase the pentode gain
by bootstrapping, and so the RCA circuit is simpler, and easier to get
right.

Having C2 too large is a sure recipe for having oscillations at 400kHz
or thereabouts, so if anything
it should only be large enough to prevent overshoot on square waves with
a pure R load.
The C2 value across R 10 should only be large enough to prevent
oscillations on any value of pure C across the output without any R
present.

Its impossible to get a a perfect square wave with such "compensation"
capacitors connected,
but a perfect square wave isn't what you want. You want
full power bandwidth from 20Hz to 20kHz, that is enough, and into a
solely resistance only load.

There will be some overshoot on square waves when you have the circuit
working OK when a pure
C load of typically 0.22 uF is used but that is just a natural function
of the circuit you effectively have created,
because every amplifier is a *BAND PASS FILTER* whether you like it or
not, and dc can't pass, and
nor can much 1Mhz. the roll off at HF may be slightly more than
6dB/octave above say 50kHz.
Filters with roll off slopes outside the -3dB point, or "pole" may have
a slope exceeding first order,
or 6dB/octave, ie, perhaps 9 or 12dB/octave, and such filters produce
ringing or overshoot on square waves.
The ringing frequency should be well above the audio band, and 60kHz is
OK.

Maximal overshoot should be 6dB more than the level part of the square
wave when the
wave has "settled" when using a 5 kHz square wave.

What one is always looking for is widest bandwidth between
-3dB LF and HF poles, and at the highest output voltage equal to 1 bD
below the 1 kHz sine wave clipping level.

Then you want minimal freedom from square wave overshoot, with any C
value betaeen 0.05uF and 5uF.

Also wanted is freedom from peaks in the sine wave response outside the
pass band of 20Hz to 20kHz.
Such response peaks should not exceed 1dB at LF below 20Hz, nore exceed
6dB at any F above
20kHz even with any C value used as the load.

Using combined R and C loads in parallel will make the amp look a lot
better than it may be, but if
capacitances of 0.22uF can be placed across the output without making
the amp oscillate
at say 150kH or any HF, then it will be stable into any other
combination of R&C in parallel,
or in series.

A test load for ESL driving is usually about 1.5ohms in series with say
16ohms & 2uF in parallel.
So even at 100kHz, the load has reverted to being mainly resistive with
1.5ohms,
because the 2uF Z has become 0.8ohms.

You need to have basic knowledge about R&C and filter behaviour and
about relative impedance effects in filters
to more fully understand what you are doing if you are to easily furnish
your sound lounge with
a DIYNSPA, a do it yourself non smoke producing amp.

Some ESL C value is a lot greater, and may load the amp more adversly
than the above which is a
a simplistic simulated load for Quad ESL57.
Martin Logan are not so easy on an amp.


Patrick Turner.





Scott


--
Surf my web pages at, http://fmamradios.com/





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tubegarden tubegarden is offline
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Default Amp oscillation

Hi RATs!

OK, I do not fully comprehend the schematic Not your problem ...

I would put a fuse in the primary of the power transformer circuit.
They are not expensive, and a bit simpler to replace than some other
bits which may serve a similar function, under duress

What value cap do you have across that primary?

I like 6F6G tubes. What lead you to them?

Enjoy this process. Later failures will be just as maddening, but,
perhaps a bit less interesting ...

Happy Ears!
Al





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Patrick Turner Patrick Turner is offline
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htrboy wrote:

snipped

Patrick, thank you for all the great tips and feedback (so to speak).
This is the first tube amp I have attempted to build, and I expected
to make mistakes. I am an electronics technician by trade and
training and in this day and age, that means I deal mostly with 1's
and 0's. While I have a basic knowledge of this stuff, I needed /
wanted to build this thing to try and work through the problems and
better understand what I learned in school about the fundamentals
(that, and at heart I'm an analog nut). So, I'll try to take what I
translate to be shots at my ignorance to heart and *really* try to
work through the details of your post. I REALLY DO appreciate the
knowledge being shared!

best regards,
Scott


Its always amazing how ppl who deal with digital have trouble with
analog
and vice versa.

Patrick Turner.
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Patrick Turner Patrick Turner is offline
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htrboy wrote:

This shematic has a couple of things which are queer.


The best values for R10 and C2 must be ascertained experimentally
with a 50k pot mounted on variable radio tuning gang, and when stablity
with 0.22 uF across the output
is achieved along with maximal bandwidth into a resistance load is
achieved
then the varied R and C values are measured and fixed values soldered
in.


Could you elaborate on how to do this? I have a large tuning cap and
50K pot that I can use...


Connect the pot in series with one of the tuning gangs
to make an "R+C series network" where both the R and C are variable
across a range wide enough for this application.
Solder up some short say 200mm temporary leads to the tuning gang, and
pot to allow easy connection
across the anode load resistor of V1.
Altering the tuning cap will be dangerous because it may be at the B+
voltage potential so you'll need to
fir a plastic knowb to pot and tuning gang, and make sure everything
remains well insulated from anything else it should not touch, including
you.
But you could have a dc blocking cap of 0.1uF off the anode and have the
R&C network taken to 0V,
with the tuning gang body being grounded; the V1 anode circuit will
still "see" the same HF load.
With the output taken to a CRO to monitor everything you do, and a 5 kHz
square wave, watch the
effect of varying the tuning gang and pot when you have a 0.22uF across
the output.
Keep the output voltage level less than 1Vrms assumung it isn't
oscillating,
but its common for amps to oscillate with no R&C network and you may
find as soon as you connect
the pot set at about 15k and the tuner set at about 50pF, that the full
screen oscillations may stop,
and there will just be some over shoot on the square wave with a
declining oscillation.

The square wave tends to shock the circuit into temporary oscillations
at each Up and down stroke, since these
abrupt voltage changes are what are known as transients, and the
transient behaviour of any amp
should be "damped", ie, slowed, but not excessively, rather like a shock
absorber works on a car wheel
when you drive over rough sharp bumps.

That's the part that 120% of novices always get wrong, unless they learn
about the functions of such R&C compensation networks,
and why they are necessary, which is better explained elswhere, and in
some detail to confuse the novice even more athttp://www.turneraudio.com.au


I'll be digesting the info on your site for a while...

The RCA schematic shown was a forerunner of the Dynaco ST70 schematic
which also used a
triode + pentode input tube but which supercharged the circuit by
bootsrapping of the
pentode anode load to the phase inverter cathode circuit thus providing
a much higher load value to the pentode anode
and thus much higher pentode gain. It was a not so obnoxious use of
internal positive FB.
The ST70 had lower gain UL output circuitry, so with bootstrapping the
circuit could be made to be sensitive despite the GNFB and lack of gain
in the output stage.


Could you explain what you mean by Bootstrapping - my definition has
to do with starting up a PC


Booting up a PC is either starting it, or getting so darn fed up with
the bloody thing you boot it
out of the house.

Bootstrapping is where an attempt is made to pick yourself up off the
floor by tugging at your boot straps.
Its obviously impossible to elevate yourself this way unless you are
extremely well connected to GOD.
I'm not.

However in electronics, a circuit that causes a voltage change in an RL
can be set up so that change is transfered
back to a point in the circuit so that the load seems like a much higher
value than its actual ohms value
if you measured it with an ohm meter.

Some of my preamps have bootstrapped follower gain stages, otherwise
known as µ-followers,
because the gain available is nearly equal to µ, the amplification
factor data number for a tube.

Build a µ follower and measure all the working voltages at every
connection point, then ask yourself
"what is going on here and why?" and you should be able to analyse and
become familiar
with what is happening. This is how I taught myself, and I want you to
teach yourself the same way.

Reading about it here, or me just explaining it is too difficult and
time consuming
and we don't have easy access to posting schematics here so I can't
illustrate as I go.
I have already written a website of 18MB, and I don't like repeating
here
what is at my site.

There are quite a few sites with bootstrapped folowers on them, but a
simple
line gain stage I have at my site is a very fine starting point for
building
a decent simple triode amplifier, so that you learn, and remember.

You will never understand tubes or transistors et all unless you become
utterly familiar
with the behaviour of the basic devices, and the basics about L,C, and R
behaviour with signal frequencies.

Patrick Turner.




Please see above for my questions inserted ^

Best regards,
Scott

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Patrick Turner Patrick Turner is offline
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John Byrns wrote:

In article ,
Patrick Turner wrote:

This shematic has a couple of things which are queer.
The screen of V1 gets its dc feed from the cathode of V2 triode via
180k,
and so if the dc rises on V2k, Va lowers on V1, and rises more on V2k so
it looks like
dc positive FB to me, and could cause LF oscillation so I would have
instead
about 1M to Vi screen from the anode B+ supply to this tube.


This feedback is actually negative, when Va lowers on V1 then V2k also
lowers, lowering the voltage on the screen grid which raises Va on V1
off setting the original lowering of Va on V1, this is negative feedback.


Yes you are quite correct. I woke up this morning thinking I bet someone
says I was wrong
about the FB between V1 and V2, and I expected a Mr Byrns to point out
the error,
and sure enough, it happened.

The FB basically is arranged to give dc NEGATIVE FB so that the circuit
is better stabilised and has reducing gain
at LF.

Did you notice with respect to the C10 polarity issue that there is no
negative bias at all on the grids of the 6L6s in this modified
schematic? The circuit should either be restored to its original
backbias configuration, or C10 and the 220 Ohm resistor should be placed
in the cathode circuit of the 6L6s.


The RCA book schematic I have that seems about the same as the one the
guy drew up has the 7868 grids
with bias R = 100k, and the junction of two of them is taken to the CT
ot the HT winding.
Then there is a 120 ohm R between this CT and and the anode current
develops a negative biasing
voltage across the 120 ohms. Its known as back-bias, and commonly used
in radio circuits.

Anyway, the biasing looked suspect on the schematic the guy drew, but
hey, he's a starter only
and such things as back bias may have not been noticed or understood at
first.
Its easy to miss that sort of thing completely.

Patrick Turner.


Regards,

John Byrns


Then R9, 1k, can be omitted since for equal +/- phase amplitudes the
anode RL and cathode RL should be equal.

R16&17 are screen stoppers and shown 56 ohms, and these won't stop much.
Increase these R to 470 ohms, 1 watt at least.

Stoppers to output grids, R14,15, should be 2k7 to 4k7, not 1k as shown,
which won't stop much, because Cin to the
pentode or beam tetrode output tubes is very low.

The 820 ohm biasing resistance to V1 pentode may work better with 220uF
across it which would
allow R18, 270 ohm GNFB resistance to be increased to about 470 ohms and
C6 to be lower, see below.

Vitally important and difficult to judge is the value for C6 HF phase
tweaking FB cap across
GNB resistor of 270 ohms; its shown as 0.012uF, but might better be
0.0022uF.

C2 HF gain stepping cap in series with R10, 15k, is shown as 22pF, and
is also difficult to verify,
but up to about 100pF may be right.

The best values for R10 and C2 must be ascertained experimentally
with a 50k pot mounted on variable radio tuning gang, and when stablity
with 0.22 uF across the output
is achieved along with maximal bandwidth into a resistance load is
achieved
then the varied R and C values are measured and fixed values soldered
in.

That's the part that 120% of novices always get wrong, unless they learn
about the functions of such R&C compensation networks,
and why they are necessary, which is better explained elswhere, and in
some detail to confuse the novice even more at
http://www.turneraudio.com.au

The reason why the values are shown as they are by RCA is to provide a
**guide only** to good practices.

Exact values *WILL* have to be different according to the
characteristics of the OPT chosen in terms of its
primary inductance, leakage inductance, and shunt capacitances.

RCA were not in any position in 1965 to provide enough data on what YOU
may do some 40 years later.

Hmm, rockets to the moon occured 3 years after 1966. Methinks the then
old dudes
who wrote the RCA tube book are all now dead, and cannot comment on
*THEIR WONDERFUL CONTRIBUTIONS*
to tube craft.


The RCA schematic shown was a forerunner of the Dynaco ST70 schematic
which also used a
triode + pentode input tube but which supercharged the circuit by
bootsrapping of the
pentode anode load to the phase inverter cathode circuit thus providing
a much higher load value to the pentode anode
and thus much higher pentode gain. It was a not so obnoxious use of
internal positive FB.
The ST70 had lower gain UL output circuitry, so with bootstrapping the
circuit could be made to be sensitive despite the GNFB and lack of gain
in the output stage.

The RCA circuit has more gain in the output circuit so there seems
little need to increase the pentode gain
by bootstrapping, and so the RCA circuit is simpler, and easier to get
right.

Having C2 too large is a sure recipe for having oscillations at 400kHz
or thereabouts, so if anything
it should only be large enough to prevent overshoot on square waves with
a pure R load.
The C2 value across R 10 should only be large enough to prevent
oscillations on any value of pure C across the output without any R
present.

Its impossible to get a a perfect square wave with such "compensation"
capacitors connected,
but a perfect square wave isn't what you want. You want
full power bandwidth from 20Hz to 20kHz, that is enough, and into a
solely resistance only load.

There will be some overshoot on square waves when you have the circuit
working OK when a pure
C load of typically 0.22 uF is used but that is just a natural function
of the circuit you effectively have created,
because every amplifier is a *BAND PASS FILTER* whether you like it or
not, and dc can't pass, and
nor can much 1Mhz. the roll off at HF may be slightly more than
6dB/octave above say 50kHz.
Filters with roll off slopes outside the -3dB point, or "pole" may have
a slope exceeding first order,
or 6dB/octave, ie, perhaps 9 or 12dB/octave, and such filters produce
ringing or overshoot on square waves.
The ringing frequency should be well above the audio band, and 60kHz is
OK.

Maximal overshoot should be 6dB more than the level part of the square
wave when the
wave has "settled" when using a 5 kHz square wave.

What one is always looking for is widest bandwidth between
-3dB LF and HF poles, and at the highest output voltage equal to 1 bD
below the 1 kHz sine wave clipping level.

Then you want minimal freedom from square wave overshoot, with any C
value betaeen 0.05uF and 5uF.

Also wanted is freedom from peaks in the sine wave response outside the
pass band of 20Hz to 20kHz.
Such response peaks should not exceed 1dB at LF below 20Hz, nore exceed
6dB at any F above
20kHz even with any C value used as the load.

Using combined R and C loads in parallel will make the amp look a lot
better than it may be, but if
capacitances of 0.22uF can be placed across the output without making
the amp oscillate
at say 150kH or any HF, then it will be stable into any other
combination of R&C in parallel,
or in series.

A test load for ESL driving is usually about 1.5ohms in series with say
16ohms & 2uF in parallel.
So even at 100kHz, the load has reverted to being mainly resistive with
1.5ohms,
because the 2uF Z has become 0.8ohms.

You need to have basic knowledge about R&C and filter behaviour and
about relative impedance effects in filters
to more fully understand what you are doing if you are to easily furnish
your sound lounge with
a DIYNSPA, a do it yourself non smoke producing amp.

Some ESL C value is a lot greater, and may load the amp more adversly
than the above which is a
a simplistic simulated load for Quad ESL57.
Martin Logan are not so easy on an amp.


Patrick Turner.





Scott


--
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Patrick Turner Patrick Turner is offline
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John Byrns wrote:

In article om,
"htrboy" wrote:

On Feb 7, 3:24 am, "MarkS" wrote:

Scott,
Looks like the 220 ohm 10w resistor is tied to the grids not tbe cathodes of
the 6L6's, is that a miss print? If not, that needs to be corrected before
doing anything else. Otherwise, you're running with 0 bias.
Mark


Hi Mark,

That part of the circuit is a point of confusion for me since the
original circuit was tube rectified. I am going to construct a
negative voltage circuit using one of the PT taps and run it to the
grids. The design isn't supposed to be cathode biased.


The original RCA design (20-13) used what is called "backbias". In a
simple amplifier like this where almost all of the current drain comes
from the output stage this is essentially equivalent to cathode bias, at
least as far as the DC conditions go. I would recommend restoring R20
and C10 to their original positions in the circuit, note the the
negative lead of C10 should connect to the power transformer center tap
which connects to the 6L6 grid resistors. The use of the backbias
circuit has nothing to do with the use of a rectifier tube, it will work
just fine with your solid state rectifiers. The back bias circuit will
be more forgiving to get operating initially, if you want to go to fixed
bias do that later after you get the amplifier up and running as
originally designed. It will be better to initially concentrate on
issues like getting the NFB properly stabilized before tackling changes
to the design.

Regards,

John Byrns


The main trouble with back bias is that it offers no fixed biasing for
the
class AB tube working, and as the signal increases, so does the bias,
and the distortion,
like trying to use class AB with cathode biasing.
There is a slight benefit that the anode suply voltage does not have to
be so great as it would with cathode bias where
the Ea Plus bias voltage must supplied by the anode B+ supply.

Nevertheless, back bias works OK where one wants only a few AB watts
from an amp capable of 30 watts AB.

But also there is no individual bias current regulation for each output
tube.

I have lost count of the number of amps, especially Quad-II, with a
common biasing resistance
and where one output tube has a red hot anode and the other is too cool.

Where fixed bias is used, there should be a separate biasing pot FOR
EACH OUTPUT GRID.
If cathode bias is used, there should always be a separate RC biasing
circuit for
each output tube. Typical value si use in Quad-II mod is 470 ohms plus
1,000 uF rated at 63V,
and I have active protection, to stop ppl blowing up bias circuits,
tubes, and OPTs and PTs,
all of which are very expensive to fix because new spares are hard to
find.


Patrick Turner.


--
Surf my web pages at, http://fmamradios.com/



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Iain Churches wrote:

"Patrick Turner" wrote in message
...


There are a few things wrong with the schematic which has low contrast
but is otherwise
quite readable and understandable.
Next time anyone submits a schematic like this they should use *black
ink pen*
on white pape. The best way is to draw it up lightly in pencil and
triple check
for mistakes before over drawing in ink, and then erazing the pencil
away with a rubber.


Scott has now sent me a better scan of the schematic which is at:

http://www.kolumbus.fi/iain.churches/Pics/Schematics/Scott'sAmp2.gif

Iain


The scan seems to be pencil drawn, so contrast is still awful,
and the size is 830KB and V1 occupies my whole screen when I open the
file.
The best drawn schematics are done with a special old fashioned drawing
board
black ink pen. I used then a lot when i did house plans for people, but
now
nearly all drafting is done on the PC.

Last night I spent 8 hours draing ONE revised Quad-II amp circuit using
MS-Paint, slow, but it looks better than the hand drawn on paper + scan
method
which takes much less time.

The MS Paint schematic is saved as a monochrome image, then as a GIF for
web display
and a typical schematic is never more than about 50KB,
much less than the 830KB file at the above address.
People could to worse than copy my techniques at my website.

Perhaps ppl could not only try to learn about tubes, but learn about the
basics of
presenting schematics so the viewer only has to double click to open it,
and nothing more.

The sender MUST take the trouble with the schematic if he expects us
to give professional advice about them in public for free, and for the
benefit of everyone
visiting the NG or for those that search the archives which are slowly
building up a
huge knowledge base.

Patrick Turner.
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On Feb 7, 7:15 am, John Byrns wrote:
In article om,

"htrboy" wrote:
On Feb 7, 3:24 am, "MarkS" wrote:


Scott,
Looks like the 220 ohm 10w resistor is tied to the grids not tbe cathodes of
the 6L6's, is that a miss print? If not, that needs to be corrected before
doing anything else. Otherwise, you're running with 0 bias.
Mark


Hi Mark,


That part of the circuit is a point of confusion for me since the
original circuit was tube rectified. I am going to construct a
negative voltage circuit using one of the PT taps and run it to the
grids. The design isn't supposed to be cathode biased.


The original RCA design (20-13) used what is called "backbias". In a
simple amplifier like this where almost all of the current drain comes
from the output stage this is essentially equivalent to cathode bias, at
least as far as the DC conditions go. I would recommend restoring R20
and C10 to their original positions in the circuit, note the the
negative lead of C10 should connect to the power transformer center tap
which connects to the 6L6 grid resistors. The use of the backbias
circuit has nothing to do with the use of a rectifier tube, it will work
just fine with your solid state rectifiers. The back bias circuit will
be more forgiving to get operating initially, if you want to go to fixed
bias do that later after you get the amplifier up and running as
originally designed. It will be better to initially concentrate on
issues like getting the NFB properly stabilized before tackling changes
to the design.

Regards,

John Byrns

--
Surf my web pages at, http://fmamradios.com/


Hi John,

I will wire up the original circuit this weekend! Thanks for
explaining what the bias was called I couldn't find anything similar
on the net. I have to say that I am VERY much encouraged now - I
spent a little time last night replacing the power tube resistors with
the values suggested and just those changes made a big difference.
The HF oscillation is now only at minimum and maximum volumes, though
now there is quite a bit of LF oscillation. After struggling with
this, any change for the better is great! More questions to follow...

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On Feb 7, 4:10 pm, "tubegarden" wrote:
Hi RATs!

OK, I do not fully comprehend the schematic Not your problem ...

I would put a fuse in the primary of the power transformer circuit.
They are not expensive, and a bit simpler to replace than some other
bits which may serve a similar function, under duress

What value cap do you have across that primary?

I like 6F6G tubes. What lead you to them?

Enjoy this process. Later failures will be just as maddening, but,
perhaps a bit less interesting ...

Happy Ears!
Al


Crap - There is actually a fuse in the circuit, it escaped my
attention when drawing the schematic sorry. The cap is an X2 safety
cap, .068mF I think.

I pulled the 6F6's out of a short wave radio chassis that was
otherwise trashed. The owner had pulled the chassis out to turn the
cabinet into a wet bar (to each his own I guess). I also pulled out
the tuning eye tube which I want to do something with down the road.

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On Feb 7, 9:40 pm, Patrick Turner wrote:
htrboy wrote:

snipped


Patrick, thank you for all the great tips and feedback (so to speak).
This is the first tube amp I have attempted to build, and I expected
to make mistakes. I am an electronics technician by trade and
training and in this day and age, that means I deal mostly with 1's
and 0's. While I have a basic knowledge of this stuff, I needed /
wanted to build this thing to try and work through the problems and
better understand what I learned in school about the fundamentals
(that, and at heart I'm an analog nut). So, I'll try to take what I
translate to be shots at my ignorance to heart and *really* try to
work through the details of your post. I REALLY DO appreciate the
knowledge being shared!


best regards,
Scott


Its always amazing how ppl who deal with digital have trouble with
analog
and vice versa.

Patrick Turner.


I work with a few research and development EE's, brilliant digital
guys (and gals) all. They can help explain the basic theory behind
the current flow etc. but not a clue when it comes to the ins and outs
of what has been discussed here. Mostly they remember their dad's
working on this stuff

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On Feb 7, 10:20 pm, Patrick Turner wrote:
John Byrns wrote:

In article ,
Patrick Turner wrote:


This shematic has a couple of things which are queer.
The screen of V1 gets its dc feed from the cathode of V2 triode via
180k,
and so if the dc rises on V2k, Va lowers on V1, and rises more on V2k so
it looks like
dc positive FB to me, and could cause LF oscillation so I would have
instead
about 1M to Vi screen from the anode B+ supply to this tube.



This feedback is actually negative, when Va lowers on V1 then V2k also
lowers, lowering the voltage on the screen grid which raises Va on V1
off setting the original lowering of Va on V1, this is negative feedback. This feedback is actually negative, when Va lowers on V1 then V2k also
lowers, lowering the voltage on the screen grid which raises Va on V1
off setting the original lowering of Va on V1, this is negative feedback.


Yes you are quite correct. I woke up this morning thinking I bet someone
says I was wrong
about the FB between V1 and V2, and I expected a Mr Byrns to point out
the error,
and sure enough, it happened.

The FB basically is arranged to give dc NEGATIVE FB so that the circuit
is better stabilised and has reducing gain
at LF.



Did you notice with respect to the C10 polarity issue that there is no
negative bias at all on the grids of the 6L6s in this modified
schematic? The circuit should either be restored to its original
backbias configuration, or C10 and the 220 Ohm resistor should be placed
in the cathode circuit of the 6L6s.


The RCA book schematic I have that seems about the same as the one the
guy drew up has the 7868 grids
with bias R = 100k, and the junction of two of them is taken to the CT
ot the HT winding.
Then there is a 120 ohm R between this CT and and the anode current
develops a negative biasing
voltage across the 120 ohms. Its known as back-bias, and commonly used
in radio circuits.

Anyway, the biasing looked suspect on the schematic the guy drew, but
hey, he's a starter only
and such things as back bias may have not been noticed or understood at
first.
Its easy to miss that sort of thing completely.

Patrick Turner.



With regards to the comments about V1, should the values in the
circuit be left alone then? Should I concentrate for now on getting
the bias right and then working with the feedback circuit?



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