Have two sony explode 12's, and VR CSi Jl Audio 6.5"ers in the front, an
Alpine CDA-7837(I think), and a Legacy 1080a Amp. The amp is a four channel
amp, was sapposed be 2000 watts, it wasn't. But the amp sounded good 4
channels bridged to two with the two subs on it, now I added the 6.5"s and
the subs are too weak. Now should I buy a 75x2 amp or somthing like that? Or
what. BTW The remote on my deck worked then all of a sudden I turned the key
back to ACC and the fronts and the sub didn't work, hmm wtf. Well the
remote puts out ZERO power. But thats beside the point, Although I do need
to find another switched power source to use for my amp.

Buck

Well, I'm thinkin the JL Audio E2150 is the amp I'll probably go with. No
the remote doesn't work at all and it ****ed me off. It was fine then I took
the key out put the door panels back on and finished hooking up everything
then suddenly it didn't work! WTF! Thanks Scott your a HUGE help.

Buck


"Scott Gardner" wrote in message
news:5d9Cc.17136$cj3.8159@lakeread01...
Buckshot wrote:

Have two sony explode 12's, and VR CSi Jl Audio 6.5"ers in the front, an
Alpine CDA-7837(I think), and a Legacy 1080a Amp. The amp is a four
channel
amp, was sapposed be 2000 watts, it wasn't. But the amp sounded good 4
channels bridged to two with the two subs on it, now I added the 6.5"s
and
the subs are too weak. Now should I buy a 75x2 amp or somthing like
that?
Or what. BTW The remote on my deck worked then all of a sudden I turned
the key
back to ACC and the fronts and the sub didn't work, hmm wtf. Well the
remote puts out ZERO power. But thats beside the point, Although I do
need
to find another switched power source to use for my amp.

Buck

Sounds like a second amp for the front speakers is the way to go, if
unbridging the 4-channel amp and only using half of it to drive the subs
isn't giving you enough power.

As for the remote power lead, is the problem only with the key in the ACC
position? Do your amps turn on with the key in the RUN position? Does
the
head unit work with the key in the ACC position? If everything works fine
with the ignition key in the RUN position, just not in the ACC position,
you may just need to find a different switched power source for the head
unit.

Scott Gardner

Well you helped me a while back in another post and I never got around to
thanking you. To tell you the truth, when it was working I was listening to
the radio. BUT I tested both the solid blue, and the Blue striped at the HU,
but neither of them had ANY power :+(. ****, if it doesnt work I'll have to
find somthing else to tap into.

Buck


"Scott Gardner" wrote in message
news:U7aCc.17140$cj3.7344@lakeread01...
Buckshot wrote:

Well, I'm thinkin the JL Audio E2150 is the amp I'll probably go with.
No
the remote doesn't work at all and it ****ed me off. It was fine then I
took the key out put the door panels back on and finished hooking up
everything then suddenly it didn't work! WTF! Thanks Scott your a HUGE
help.

Buck

Well, it doesn't sound like I've been much help at all so far. Have you
tried disconnecting the remote lead at the back of the head unit and
testing the voltage on the lead right as it comes out of the head unit's
wiring harness? (basically, you need to disconnect the entire wire run
from the head unit back to the amp before you take the voltage
measurement.) If you have a short to ground somewhere in the wiring run
from the head unit back to the amp, that could cause your amps not to turn
on, and you would show zero voltage on the remote lead wire. Is there any
kind of a fuse on your remote wire?

Other dumb things to try... I don't know about your Alpine, but some head
units have a separate power antenna lead that's only hot when you're
listening to the radio, and in the past I've mistakenly tried to use that
for an amp turn-on lead. When your stereo was working before, did it work
with all input sources (radio, CD, etcetera)?

If all else fails, you can turn on your amps using the same switched +12V
wire that powers your head unit. This means that your amps will be on
whenever the car's on, regardless of whether you have the head unit turned
on or not. I don't know if having the amps powered with no input signal
would produce noise at the outputs, but it's a free solution if it works
for you.

Scott Gardner

Buckshot wrote:

Have two sony explode 12's, and VR CSi Jl Audio 6.5"ers in the front, an
Alpine CDA-7837(I think), and a Legacy 1080a Amp. The amp is a four
channel
amp, was sapposed be 2000 watts, it wasn't. But the amp sounded good 4
channels bridged to two with the two subs on it, now I added the 6.5"s and
the subs are too weak. Now should I buy a 75x2 amp or somthing like that?
Or what. BTW The remote on my deck worked then all of a sudden I turned
the key
back to ACC and the fronts and the sub didn't work, hmm wtf. Well the
remote puts out ZERO power. But thats beside the point, Although I do need
to find another switched power source to use for my amp.

Buck

Sounds like a second amp for the front speakers is the way to go, if
unbridging the 4-channel amp and only using half of it to drive the subs
isn't giving you enough power.

As for the remote power lead, is the problem only with the key in the ACC
position? Do your amps turn on with the key in the RUN position? Does the
head unit work with the key in the ACC position? If everything works fine
with the ignition key in the RUN position, just not in the ACC position,
you may just need to find a different switched power source for the head
unit.

Scott Gardner

Buckshot wrote:

Well, I'm thinkin the JL Audio E2150 is the amp I'll probably go with. No
the remote doesn't work at all and it ****ed me off. It was fine then I
took the key out put the door panels back on and finished hooking up
everything then suddenly it didn't work! WTF! Thanks Scott your a HUGE
help.

Buck

Well, it doesn't sound like I've been much help at all so far. Have you
tried disconnecting the remote lead at the back of the head unit and
testing the voltage on the lead right as it comes out of the head unit's
wiring harness? (basically, you need to disconnect the entire wire run
from the head unit back to the amp before you take the voltage
measurement.) If you have a short to ground somewhere in the wiring run
from the head unit back to the amp, that could cause your amps not to turn
on, and you would show zero voltage on the remote lead wire. Is there any
kind of a fuse on your remote wire?

Other dumb things to try... I don't know about your Alpine, but some head
units have a separate power antenna lead that's only hot when you're
listening to the radio, and in the past I've mistakenly tried to use that
for an amp turn-on lead. When your stereo was working before, did it work
with all input sources (radio, CD, etcetera)?

If all else fails, you can turn on your amps using the same switched +12V
wire that powers your head unit. This means that your amps will be on
whenever the car's on, regardless of whether you have the head unit turned
on or not. I don't know if having the amps powered with no input signal
would produce noise at the outputs, but it's a free solution if it works
for you.

Scott Gardner

Buckshot wrote:

Well you helped me a while back in another post and I never got around to
thanking you. To tell you the truth, when it was working I was listening
to the radio. BUT I tested both the solid blue, and the Blue striped at
the HU, but neither of them had ANY power :+(. ****, if it doesnt work
I'll have to find somthing else to tap into.

Buck


"Scott Gardner" wrote in message
news:U7aCc.17140$cj3.7344@lakeread01...
Buckshot wrote:

Well, I'm thinkin the JL Audio E2150 is the amp I'll probably go with.
No
the remote doesn't work at all and it ****ed me off. It was fine then I
took the key out put the door panels back on and finished hooking up
everything then suddenly it didn't work! WTF! Thanks Scott your a HUGE
help.

Buck


Yep, sounds like the remote turn-on leads may be toasted. When you checked
the voltages on the blue and blue-striped wires, did you first disconnect
those wires from anything downstream (like your amps)? I'm kind of hoping
that your head unit is still producing voltage at the turn-on leads, but
that a short somewhere downstream is pulling the voltage down to zero. If
this were the case, I'd expect that a fuse would have popped somewhere or
the turn-on wire would have burnt up, but it's the last thing I can think
of to check before writing off the turn-on leads entirely.

Scott Gardner

Yep, They were unhooked. Which sucks, because they worked not ten minutes
before! Well I guess Ill have to find a new one to use. Thats ****ty but
thanks Scott, I'd hate to get a new HU because I just got this one from a
friend and I hard wired everything because I wanted to get it in but didn't
have time to get harnesses.

Buck



"Scott Gardner" wrote in message
news:36bCc.17143$cj3.3521@lakeread01...
Buckshot wrote:

Well you helped me a while back in another post and I never got around
to
thanking you. To tell you the truth, when it was working I was listening
to the radio. BUT I tested both the solid blue, and the Blue striped at
the HU, but neither of them had ANY power :+(. ****, if it doesnt work
I'll have to find somthing else to tap into.

Buck


"Scott Gardner" wrote in message
news:U7aCc.17140$cj3.7344@lakeread01...
Buckshot wrote:

Well, I'm thinkin the JL Audio E2150 is the amp I'll probably go
with.
No
the remote doesn't work at all and it ****ed me off. It was fine then
I
took the key out put the door panels back on and finished hooking up
everything then suddenly it didn't work! WTF! Thanks Scott your a
HUGE
help.

Buck


Yep, sounds like the remote turn-on leads may be toasted. When you
checked
the voltages on the blue and blue-striped wires, did you first disconnect
those wires from anything downstream (like your amps)? I'm kind of hoping
that your head unit is still producing voltage at the turn-on leads, but
that a short somewhere downstream is pulling the voltage down to zero. If
this were the case, I'd expect that a fuse would have popped somewhere or
the turn-on wire would have burnt up, but it's the last thing I can think
of to check before writing off the turn-on leads entirely.

Scott Gardner