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#1
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Sealing holes in doors
Hey all,
As per my previous post, I've got a set of Boston ProSeries 6.5's and the woofers are going in the doors of my *rockin'* '94 Hyundai Excel hatchback :-P . However, I took the panel off the other day and noticed that there are a few rather large holes in the sheetmetal that don't seem to really have any purpose... Most notably, there's a big square one right where I was hoping to put my woofer! So I got thinking: "Maybe i could just buy some 1/2" MDF, screw it to the door, and screw the woofer to the wood!" (caulking the edges of course). Does this sound like a sound plan? (pun intended...) If so, is 1/2" too thin? Now, what about the rest of the holes? Is it worth my while to plug them with wood too? I intend to dynamat (well actually B-Quiet) the whole door either way, since our korean friends probably didn't intend for my little 1.5L car to be going 110km/h (even tho the speedometer says 200!), and therefore put no deadening or soundproofing whatsoever in the doors... Thanks for any ideas/opinions, Dan |
#2
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Sealing holes in doors
Sounds like a sound plan, Dan.
As far as sealing the rest of the holes, that's up to you. If you're trying to quiet road noise, all the layers of dynamat in the world won't help. If you're trying to reduce buzzes, rattles and resonations caused by the woofer, then it's a great idea. It's very time consuming, but the last two vehicles I've owned I've done this with my doors. I like to hear my music, not all the metal parts rattling in my doors. If you want, you can look at what I did with my Maxima. Overkill for most casual listeners, but what can I say? :-) http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/196550/5 Tony -- What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact "Dan D" wrote in message om... Hey all, As per my previous post, I've got a set of Boston ProSeries 6.5's and the woofers are going in the doors of my *rockin'* '94 Hyundai Excel hatchback :-P . However, I took the panel off the other day and noticed that there are a few rather large holes in the sheetmetal that don't seem to really have any purpose... Most notably, there's a big square one right where I was hoping to put my woofer! So I got thinking: "Maybe i could just buy some 1/2" MDF, screw it to the door, and screw the woofer to the wood!" (caulking the edges of course). Does this sound like a sound plan? (pun intended...) If so, is 1/2" too thin? Now, what about the rest of the holes? Is it worth my while to plug them with wood too? I intend to dynamat (well actually B-Quiet) the whole door either way, since our korean friends probably didn't intend for my little 1.5L car to be going 110km/h (even tho the speedometer says 200!), and therefore put no deadening or soundproofing whatsoever in the doors... Thanks for any ideas/opinions, Dan |
#3
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Sealing holes in doors
"Tony Fernandes" wrote
... As far as sealing the rest of the holes, that's up to you. If you're trying to quiet road noise, all the layers of dynamat in the world won't help. Damnit. Well, I'm sure the dynamat will help clean up the sound anyways, but what's good for killing road noise then? D |
#4
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Sealing holes in doors
"Damnit. Well, I'm sure the dynamat will help clean up the sound
anyways, but what's good for killing road noise then?" Check to make sure all your door seals and window seals are good. Buy quieter tires. As far as sound deadening materials, the only thing I've heard that works well is a combination of damping and barrier materials sandwiched together. There are some combos available such as flexible lead sheets surrounded by a layer(s) of traditional damping materials. Problem is, you have to do your whole car for it to really make a difference. Floor, headliner, firewall, doors, etc. It's very expensive and probably weighs a ton, too. Don't get me wrong, damping your doors like I suggested will help a little, but not much. I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference. Tony -- What's more likely? That an all-powerful mysterious god created the universe and then decided not to give any proof of his existence? Or, that he simply doesn't exist at all? And that we created him so that we wouldn't have to feel so small and alone. -Eleanor Arroway, Contact "Dan D" wrote in message om... "Tony Fernandes" wrote ... As far as sealing the rest of the holes, that's up to you. If you're trying to quiet road noise, all the layers of dynamat in the world won't help. Damnit. Well, I'm sure the dynamat will help clean up the sound anyways, but what's good for killing road noise then? D |
#5
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Sealing holes in doors
"Tony Fernandes" wrote:
"Damnit. Well, I'm sure the dynamat will help clean up the sound anyways, but what's good for killing road noise then?" Check to make sure all your door seals and window seals are good. Number one. Buy quieter tires. Number 2. As far as sound deadening materials, the only thing I've heard that works well is a combination of damping and barrier materials sandwiched together. There are some combos available such as flexible lead sheets surrounded by a layer(s) of traditional damping materials. Problem is, you have to do your whole car for it to really make a difference. Floor, headliner, firewall, doors, etc. It's very expensive and probably weighs a ton, too. There are two ways to reduce noise. First is having a suitable barrier between you and the sound. For low frequencies you'll have to have a heavy barrier which is the 2nd sound killer ..... absorbption. The problem with noise reduction in the car is that noise is heavily low frequency biased which requires a considerable amount of mass to provide any significant amount of noise reduction. In late 1993 I tested a 2-step Dynamat noise reduction treatment in a new Z28. I conducted full spectrum noise reduction tests before and after both the regular treatment and the pro-install. The first included treatment on the floor pan from the firewall to the rear seat and a layer on both doors. The "pro" treatment added a 2nd layer on the floor pan, a full layer all the way to the tailgate and a 2nd layer inside both doors. Aside from a slight reduction of tire whine on rain-grooved highway at 35mph there was no noise reduction of any kind with either level at idle, 35 and 55 mph on the same streets taken at the same time of day with a like amount of traffic. This is not all that surprising. Other than closing open-holes (which the factory undercoating already provided) adding 65 lbs of mass to a 3250 lb car just isn't going to reduce noise all that much. If there is one item that could help some its a hood liner. In some cars plenty of engine noise can be delivered right through the windshield and hood liner can sometimes be useful. Wind noise is more high frequency biased most of that comes in through the glass which is hard to treat. Making sure your seals are functional and properly seated is about all your can do. If you are still interested one big noise-leak is often the firewall. Make sure all the holes are properly sealed. If you're going to install sound deadening material I think one should start with the firewall after checking items above. Don't get me wrong, damping your doors like I suggested will help a little, but not much. I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference. Tony That's been my experience. |
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