Looking for people to fill out the following to give me a starting
point to research with. Don't debate, just fill out what you think is
best.

When I say best I mean best out there, cost is no object. Not best for
the money. Best period. Basicly if you were a millionair, what system
would you buy?

--

Best Deck:
Best Separates/Component 6 1/2 for doors:
Best Subwoofers (12-15):
Best Amp:

--

Thank you very much for responses,
Max

Looking for people to fill out the following to give me a starting
point to research with. Don't debate, just fill out what you think is
best.

When I say best I mean best out there, cost is no object. Not best for
the money. Best period. Basicly if you were a millionair, what system
would you buy?

Just to preface my response: it should be made clear that "best" is indeed a
subjective quality.

For amplifiers, reliability is paramount, both in terms of longevity and the
ability to run the given load without the possibility of overheating and so
forth. The second most important characteristic of an amplifier is, of
course, the amount of power it can deliver into the load. Ideally, you want
as much power as possible so that there's sufficient headroom for your
needs. There's no greater source of distortion in the audio system than
driving the amplifier beyond its linear range into saturation. So this is
vitally important. In addition, the efficiency of the amplifier must be
taken into account, given the limited amount of power available in a car.
The feature set is also important, so that you can run all of your
components with fully adjustable crossover settings. If this feature set is
not available, then you're forced to add additional pieces to provide these
features.

For speakers and subs, perhaps the most important parameter is the ability
for the speaker to generate the volume desired without being overdriven and
thus generating a tremendous amount of distortion. This would be a mix of
power handling and sensitivity. Secondary to this, though also important,
is that the tonal quality of the speaker set suits your needs. This is
mostly a combination of the frequency/phase response, dispersion, and the
distortion characteristics of the speaker set. This component is by far the
most prone to subjectivity. Oh yeah, and the speaker set has to actually
fit where you want to put it.

For source units, the most important aspect is feature set. Does it do what
you want it to do? Secondary is usually the asthetics and user-friendliness
of the unit.

In light of the above, here are some of my favorites:

Best Deck: Computer with touchscreen running winamp for wavs or even
high-bitrate mp3
Best Separates/Component 6 1/2 for doors: For 6-1/2 2-way component sets,
I'd choose the Dynaudio system 240, a/d/s/ 336is (not their most expensive
set, but one of my favorites), Macrom (I forget the model; it was of about
'96 vintage - terrific set), Polk mobile monitor 6's (yes, Polk - I forget
the model, something like 6510), I had a set of Vifas once that I loved, but
I can't think of the model at all.
Best Subwoofers (12-15): Almost anything JL, Adire, Image Dynamics puts
out. I've had very good luck with those three brands in the past and have
had trouble distinguishing between them when they're in the "right" box.
Best Amp: My favorites will have to remain the a/d/s/ and ESX quantum amps
with the many many crossover controls and wiring options. Enough to confuse
any installer. Not all a/d/s/'s offer these advantages.

"SynAwk" wrote in message
om...
Looking for people to fill out the following to give me a starting
point to research with. Don't debate, just fill out what you think is
best.

When I say best I mean best out there, cost is no object. Not best for
the money. Best period. Basicly if you were a millionair, what system
would you buy?

--

Best Deck:
Best Separates/Component 6 1/2 for doors:
Best Subwoofers (12-15):
Best Amp:

--

Thank you very much for responses,
Max

Denon, XES, ODR, F#1 Status, nu-9255, and 7909

lots of debate on this, Dynaduio, AVI, Focal, a/d/s/, MB-Quart, and
///Alpine

even more debate, Velodyne, DD, USD, ID, Adire, and ED.

lets not go here, a/d/s/, Orion, Brax, Helix, Genesis, Monolithic, ODR amps,
Phaze, PPI, PG, Xtant, Zapco.

Mark:

Now, I myself said no debating but I am trying to understand your
point of view. The products you list are cheaper items. Does this not
make them lower end? Are the speakers you mentioned really better than
a more pricey component set such as the Focal Utopia series? The amp
you mentioned also carries a price tag far lower than something such
as a McIntosh amp. With the statement about Adire and JL subs I would
possibly agree with but what particular models, Adire Audio Brahma?

Does super high prices not reflect much higher quality?

Thank you,
Max

Now, I myself said no debating but I am trying to understand your
point of view. The products you list are cheaper items. Does this not
make them lower end?

Depends what your definition of "lower end" is. I can't think of any
attribute to any of the equipment I listed that would be deficient.

Are the speakers you mentioned really better than
a more pricey component set such as the Focal Utopia series?

I don't like Focal Utopias. They're too bright for my liking, and I've
always had a very difficult time tuning them. Speaker selection is an
entirely subjective experience. I can't emphasize that enough. The
questions you're asking are analogous to "How could you like the Doors more
than the Beatles, when the Beatles have sold more albums?"

The amp
you mentioned also carries a price tag far lower than something such
as a McIntosh amp.

The McIntosh doesn't have anything that the ESX and a/d/s/ amplifiers don't
have. Yet the ESX and a/d/s/ have several things that McIntosh doesn't
have. For instance, a/d/s/ sells an 8-ch amp. And both a/d/s/ and ESX have
fully adjustable bandpass-able crossovers.

With the statement about Adire and JL subs I would
possibly agree with but what particular models, Adire Audio Brahma?

I was referring specifically to the Shiva, as that model is the only one
I've had any experience with.

Does super high prices not reflect much higher quality?

Price has very little to do with quality. Everything I listed are quality
products. I chose the speakers I did because I like the sound of them the
best. And I chose those amplifiers because the combination of their
features and power output cannot be matched. I personally can't think of a
better amp to use to be able to triamp a 3-way component set than the a/d/s/
P850, unless you wanted to buy multiple amps and active crossovers to do the
same job as that one piece. As for the ESX, there are very few amplifiers
that combine that amount of power, versatility, and crossover controls.

"SynAwk" wrote in message
om...
Mark:

Now, I myself said no debating but I am trying to understand your
point of view. The products you list are cheaper items. Does this not
make them lower end? Are the speakers you mentioned really better than
a more pricey component set such as the Focal Utopia series? The amp
you mentioned also carries a price tag far lower than something such
as a McIntosh amp. With the statement about Adire and JL subs I would
possibly agree with but what particular models, Adire Audio Brahma?

Does super high prices not reflect much higher quality?

Thank you,
Max

price has less to do with quality then actually technology and the EE put
into the product. some companies charge lots of money for less than great
products.

Mark,

I'm new to this board and when you responded to my post the other day
I didn't realize you knew so much. I'm going to reconsider what you
said about amps and will check out a/d/s. btw, I also had the Polk
mobile monitors you mentioned and was VERY impressed with them. The
only problem i had with them is that they could not handle the power
of the Dyn's, which I now have.

Please tell me, if I were to go with an amp that had no crossover
controls on board, and I wanted to cut out the frequencies below 40
HZ, but outboard device would degrade the signal the least? I was
considering an active device, such as Audio Control or a PPI product.
But someone atButler recommended the Harison Labs "F-Mods", which are
passive in-line filters that plug onto the RCA cables. Please advise
what you recommend.

Thank you.
_________________

"Mark Zarella" wrote in message ...
Looking for people to fill out the following to give me a starting
point to research with. Don't debate, just fill out what you think is
best.

When I say best I mean best out there, cost is no object. Not best for
the money. Best period. Basicly if you were a millionair, what system
would you buy?

Just to preface my response: it should be made clear that "best" is indeed a
subjective quality.

For amplifiers, reliability is paramount, both in terms of longevity and the
ability to run the given load without the possibility of overheating and so
forth. The second most important characteristic of an amplifier is, of
course, the amount of power it can deliver into the load. Ideally, you want
as much power as possible so that there's sufficient headroom for your
needs. There's no greater source of distortion in the audio system than
driving the amplifier beyond its linear range into saturation. So this is
vitally important. In addition, the efficiency of the amplifier must be
taken into account, given the limited amount of power available in a car.
The feature set is also important, so that you can run all of your
components with fully adjustable crossover settings. If this feature set is
not available, then you're forced to add additional pieces to provide these
features.

For speakers and subs, perhaps the most important parameter is the ability
for the speaker to generate the volume desired without being overdriven and
thus generating a tremendous amount of distortion. This would be a mix of
power handling and sensitivity. Secondary to this, though also important,
is that the tonal quality of the speaker set suits your needs. This is
mostly a combination of the frequency/phase response, dispersion, and the
distortion characteristics of the speaker set. This component is by far the
most prone to subjectivity. Oh yeah, and the speaker set has to actually
fit where you want to put it.

For source units, the most important aspect is feature set. Does it do what
you want it to do? Secondary is usually the asthetics and user-friendliness
of the unit.

In light of the above, here are some of my favorites:

Best Deck: Computer with touchscreen running winamp for wavs or even
high-bitrate mp3
Best Separates/Component 6 1/2 for doors: For 6-1/2 2-way component sets,
I'd choose the Dynaudio system 240, a/d/s/ 336is (not their most expensive
set, but one of my favorites), Macrom (I forget the model; it was of about
'96 vintage - terrific set), Polk mobile monitor 6's (yes, Polk - I forget
the model, something like 6510), I had a set of Vifas once that I loved, but
I can't think of the model at all.
Best Subwoofers (12-15): Almost anything JL, Adire, Image Dynamics puts
out. I've had very good luck with those three brands in the past and have
had trouble distinguishing between them when they're in the "right" box.
Best Amp: My favorites will have to remain the a/d/s/ and ESX quantum amps
with the many many crossover controls and wiring options. Enough to confuse
any installer. Not all a/d/s/'s offer these advantages.

Mark,

I'm new to this board and when you responded to my post the other day
I didn't realize you knew so much. I'm going to reconsider what you
said about amps and will check out a/d/s. btw, I also had the Polk
mobile monitors you mentioned and was VERY impressed with them. The
only problem i had with them is that they could not handle the power
of the Dyn's, which I now have.

I agree with that. The Dynaudio speakers handle quite a bit. The Polks
could handle close to the 200 watts per channel I was feeding them, but they
would break up before the amplifier would clip.

Please tell me, if I were to go with an amp that had no crossover
controls on board, and I wanted to cut out the frequencies below 40
HZ, but outboard device would degrade the signal the least? I was
considering an active device, such as Audio Control or a PPI product.

Either of those are good products. The problem is that it's very common to
induce noise from an external device such as these. The noise can be
removed if you like tinkering with grounds, but IME it can be difficult.
Also, those pieces are expensive and don't always have the amount of control
that some amplifiers' built-in controls exhibit.

But someone atButler recommended the Harison Labs "F-Mods", which are
passive in-line filters that plug onto the RCA cables. Please advise
what you recommend.

I'm surprised they would recommend F-mods. Not that the F-mods introduce
distortion or anything (and in fact, since they're passive devices, they'll
introduce zero noise), but because their cutoff frequency is tremendously
imprecise due to the varying input impedances of amplifiers. You could be
buying a "40Hz F-mod", but it could really be 80Hz when connected to your
amp, and 20Hz when connected to a different amp.

I have always loved my audiocontrol crossovers. I have a couple of the 2xs
crossovers. Very nice.

"Brian" wrote in message
om...
Mark,

I'm new to this board and when you responded to my post the other day
I didn't realize you knew so much. I'm going to reconsider what you
said about amps and will check out a/d/s. btw, I also had the Polk
mobile monitors you mentioned and was VERY impressed with them. The
only problem i had with them is that they could not handle the power
of the Dyn's, which I now have.

Please tell me, if I were to go with an amp that had no crossover
controls on board, and I wanted to cut out the frequencies below 40
HZ, but outboard device would degrade the signal the least? I was
considering an active device, such as Audio Control or a PPI product.
But someone atButler recommended the Harison Labs "F-Mods", which are
passive in-line filters that plug onto the RCA cables. Please advise
what you recommend.

Thank you.
_________________

"Mark Zarella" wrote in message
...
Looking for people to fill out the following to give me a starting
point to research with. Don't debate, just fill out what you think is
best.

When I say best I mean best out there, cost is no object. Not best for
the money. Best period. Basicly if you were a millionair, what system
would you buy?

Just to preface my response: it should be made clear that "best" is
indeed a
subjective quality.

For amplifiers, reliability is paramount, both in terms of longevity and
the
ability to run the given load without the possibility of overheating and
so
forth. The second most important characteristic of an amplifier is, of
course, the amount of power it can deliver into the load. Ideally, you
want
as much power as possible so that there's sufficient headroom for your
needs. There's no greater source of distortion in the audio system than
driving the amplifier beyond its linear range into saturation. So this
is
vitally important. In addition, the efficiency of the amplifier must be
taken into account, given the limited amount of power available in a
car.
The feature set is also important, so that you can run all of your
components with fully adjustable crossover settings. If this feature
set is
not available, then you're forced to add additional pieces to provide
these
features.

For speakers and subs, perhaps the most important parameter is the
ability
for the speaker to generate the volume desired without being overdriven
and
thus generating a tremendous amount of distortion. This would be a mix
of
power handling and sensitivity. Secondary to this, though also
important,
is that the tonal quality of the speaker set suits your needs. This is
mostly a combination of the frequency/phase response, dispersion, and
the
distortion characteristics of the speaker set. This component is by far
the
most prone to subjectivity. Oh yeah, and the speaker set has to
actually
fit where you want to put it.

For source units, the most important aspect is feature set. Does it do
what
you want it to do? Secondary is usually the asthetics and
user-friendliness
of the unit.

In light of the above, here are some of my favorites:

Best Deck: Computer with touchscreen running winamp for wavs or even
high-bitrate mp3
Best Separates/Component 6 1/2 for doors: For 6-1/2 2-way component
sets,
I'd choose the Dynaudio system 240, a/d/s/ 336is (not their most
expensive
set, but one of my favorites), Macrom (I forget the model; it was of
about
'96 vintage - terrific set), Polk mobile monitor 6's (yes, Polk - I
forget
the model, something like 6510), I had a set of Vifas once that I loved,
but
I can't think of the model at all.
Best Subwoofers (12-15): Almost anything JL, Adire, Image Dynamics
puts
out. I've had very good luck with those three brands in the past and
have
had trouble distinguishing between them when they're in the "right" box.
Best Amp: My favorites will have to remain the a/d/s/ and ESX quantum
amps
with the many many crossover controls and wiring options. Enough to
confuse
any installer. Not all a/d/s/'s offer these advantages.

Thank you for the advice!


"Mark Zarella" wrote in message ...
Mark,

I'm new to this board and when you responded to my post the other day
I didn't realize you knew so much. I'm going to reconsider what you
said about amps and will check out a/d/s. btw, I also had the Polk
mobile monitors you mentioned and was VERY impressed with them. The
only problem i had with them is that they could not handle the power
of the Dyn's, which I now have.

I agree with that. The Dynaudio speakers handle quite a bit. The Polks
could handle close to the 200 watts per channel I was feeding them, but they
would break up before the amplifier would clip.

Please tell me, if I were to go with an amp that had no crossover
controls on board, and I wanted to cut out the frequencies below 40
HZ, but outboard device would degrade the signal the least? I was
considering an active device, such as Audio Control or a PPI product.

Either of those are good products. The problem is that it's very common to
induce noise from an external device such as these. The noise can be
removed if you like tinkering with grounds, but IME it can be difficult.
Also, those pieces are expensive and don't always have the amount of control
that some amplifiers' built-in controls exhibit.

But someone atButler recommended the Harison Labs "F-Mods", which are
passive in-line filters that plug onto the RCA cables. Please advise
what you recommend.

I'm surprised they would recommend F-mods. Not that the F-mods introduce
distortion or anything (and in fact, since they're passive devices, they'll
introduce zero noise), but because their cutoff frequency is tremendously
imprecise due to the varying input impedances of amplifiers. You could be
buying a "40Hz F-mod", but it could really be 80Hz when connected to your
amp, and 20Hz when connected to a different amp.

Ok,

as You wish:
Best Deck: Alpine F1 Status,
Best Components:
tweeters: Morel Supremo, Rainbow Reference, Focal Audiom TLR
kickbass: Rainbow Reference, Lotus L0012-04, Gorlich 160VK MK II
Best Subwoofers: DLS UR12, JL12W6, Cerwin Vega Stroker
BestAmp: Genesis DualMono, DLS Ultimate A6, Steg MasterStroke3000

As You can see it's not cheap to be perfect.

Uzytkownik "SynAwk" napisal w wiadomosci
om...
Looking for people to fill out the following to give me a starting
point to research with. Don't debate, just fill out what you think is
best.

When I say best I mean best out there, cost is no object. Not best for
the money. Best period. Basicly if you were a millionair, what system
would you buy?

--

Best Deck:
Best Separates/Component 6 1/2 for doors:
Best Subwoofers (12-15):
Best Amp:

--

Thank you very much for responses,
Max

Best Subwoofers: DLS UR12, JL12W6, Cerwin Vega Stroker



Are you serious? There are LOADS of subs better sounding and more accurate
than the W6s and the Stroker.


Paul Vina

"Paul Vina" wrote in message
news:hJFPb.101628$nt4.303911@attbi_s51...

Best Subwoofers: DLS UR12, JL12W6, Cerwin Vega Stroker



Are you serious? There are LOADS of subs better sounding and more
accurate
than the W6s and the Stroker.

For example, Image Dynamics runs circles around all of them.

I agree. My IDMAX is a phenomenal sub.


Paul Vina

"Pug Fugley" wrote in message
hlink.net...

"Paul Vina" wrote in message
news:hJFPb.101628$nt4.303911@attbi_s51...

Best Subwoofers: DLS UR12, JL12W6, Cerwin Vega Stroker



Are you serious? There are LOADS of subs better sounding and more
accurate
than the W6s and the Stroker.

For example, Image Dynamics runs circles around all of them.

"Paul Vina" wrote in message
news:Z9HPb.99294$sv6.419278@attbi_s52...
I agree. My IDMAX is a phenomenal sub.


Paul Vina

third that.

You're right I misshoot those subs.


U¿ytkownik "Tha Ghee" napisa³ w wiadomo¶ci
...
"Paul Vina" wrote in message
news:Z9HPb.99294$sv6.419278@attbi_s52...
I agree. My IDMAX is a phenomenal sub.


Paul Vina

third that.