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#1
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Bass versus amplier output?
I just got this cd/mp3 player for my car..
JVC HD/Bluetooth-Ready Car Stereo (KD-G340) and the ad says 50W x 4 peak power. However when I view the manual, it says something like 22W x 4, 4ohm in the amplifier output section. The bass is really weak. I guess I don't understand the difference. |
#2
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Bass versus amplier output?
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#3
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Bass versus amplier output?
wrote in message ... I just got this cd/mp3 player for my car.. JVC HD/Bluetooth-Ready Car Stereo (KD-G340) and the ad says 50W x 4 peak power. However when I view the manual, it says something like 22W x 4, 4ohm in the amplifier output section. The bass is really weak. I guess I don't understand the difference. 22W x 4 is the RMS rating i.e what the unit is capable of producing at a continuous rate; most head units put out that much. Peak power / Max power is what the internal amplifier is capable of producing for a very short period of time, say a second. Adding a subwoofer to your system will definitely achieve the result your after. What you're after is a straightforward 'active subwoofer'. |
#4
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Bass versus amplier output?
I usually tell people to flat out ignore peak ratings. They don't mean much
of anything. I've seen amplifiers and speakers with peak ratings of several hundred, and even over 1000 watts, but were really only 75 watts RMS (or even less in many cases). Some of the more reputable companies may advertise peak ratings that are pretty accurate. For an amp a true peak rating is what the amp is capable of putting out for very short durations. Most often fractions of a second. Speakers peak ratings are what the speaker should be able to handle for those same fractions of a second. Normally you'll see peak ratings are roughly 200% of the RMS rating from the reputable companies. Many of the cheaper stuff (like Speco, Pyle, Pyramid, etc etc etc) that you usually find at flea markets advertise severely inflated peak ratings. Many years ago I got my hands on a 1600 watt amp (I can't remember the brand or model, wish I could) that I took apart. I looked up all of the parts inside, and from my best estimation, the amp was only capable of putting out roughly 60-70 watts RMS. I've also seen amplified computer speakers advertised as 580 watts PMPO... PMPO==Peak Music Power Output... Whatever that means... Anyway, upon further research I found out the speakers had about a 3 watt amp built in. So their peak rating was about 20000% of the RMS. Be cautious when looking at advertised ratings. Some companies will ONLY advertise peak numbers, some will only advertise RMS, others will advertise both. As you can see, peak can be anywhere from 2 times RMS, up to 200 times RMS. As a rule of thumb, if a company only advertises peak ratings, stay as far away from them as possible, because you will never know what the equipment can really put out, or handle. I wouldn't rate JVC as one of the best companies, but they're definitely not one of the worst either. Notice how their peak rating is about double RMS. 22 watts is plenty of power for mids and highs, but if it's bass you're looking for, you're gonna need a bit more power than you can get from any head unit. You should look into adding an external amp and 1 or more subwoofers. If you don't have the space/time/money/whatever for that, replacing your stock speakers is always a good idea. You might be able to get more bass out of some aftermarket speakers. Hope this helped you. ----- Original Message ----- From: Newsgroups: rec.audio.car Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 10:35 PM Subject: Bass versus amplier output? I just got this cd/mp3 player for my car.. JVC HD/Bluetooth-Ready Car Stereo (KD-G340) and the ad says 50W x 4 peak power. However when I view the manual, it says something like 22W x 4, 4ohm in the amplifier output section. The bass is really weak. I guess I don't understand the difference. wrote in message ... I just got this cd/mp3 player for my car.. JVC HD/Bluetooth-Ready Car Stereo (KD-G340) and the ad says 50W x 4 peak power. However when I view the manual, it says something like 22W x 4, 4ohm in the amplifier output section. The bass is really weak. I guess I don't understand the difference. |
#5
Posted to rec.audio.car
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Bass versus amplier output?
SKaReCRoW wrote:
I usually tell people to flat out ignore peak ratings. They don't mean much of anything. I've seen amplifiers and speakers with peak ratings of several hundred, and even over 1000 watts, but were really only 75 watts RMS (or even less in many cases). Some of the more reputable companies may advertise peak ratings that are pretty accurate. For an amp a true peak rating is what the amp is capable of putting out for very short durations. Most often fractions of a second. Speakers peak ratings are what the speaker should be able to handle for those same fractions of a second. Normally you'll see peak ratings are roughly 200% of the RMS rating from the reputable companies. Many of the cheaper stuff (like Speco, Pyle, Pyramid, etc etc etc) that you usually find at flea markets advertise severely inflated peak ratings. Many years ago I got my hands on a 1600 watt amp (I can't remember the brand or model, wish I could) that I took apart. I looked up all of the parts inside, and from my best estimation, the amp was only capable of putting out roughly 60-70 watts RMS. I've also seen amplified computer speakers advertised as 580 watts PMPO... PMPO==Peak Music Power Output... Whatever that means... Anyway, upon further research I found out the speakers had about a 3 watt amp built in. So their peak rating was about 20000% of the RMS. Be cautious when looking at advertised ratings. Some companies will ONLY advertise peak numbers, some will only advertise RMS, others will advertise both. As you can see, peak can be anywhere from 2 times RMS, up to 200 times RMS. As a rule of thumb, if a company only advertises peak ratings, stay as far away from them as possible, because you will never know what the equipment can really put out, or handle. I wouldn't rate JVC as one of the best companies, but they're definitely not one of the worst either. Notice how their peak rating is about double RMS. 22 watts is plenty of power for mids and highs, but if it's bass you're looking for, you're gonna need a bit more power than you can get from any head unit. You should look into adding an external amp and 1 or more subwoofers. If you don't have the space/time/money/whatever for that, replacing your stock speakers is always a good idea. You might be able to get more bass out of some aftermarket speakers. Hope this helped you. ----- Original Message ----- From: Newsgroups: rec.audio.car Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 10:35 PM Subject: Bass versus amplier output? I just got this cd/mp3 player for my car.. JVC HD/Bluetooth-Ready Car Stereo (KD-G340) and the ad says 50W x 4 peak power. However when I view the manual, it says something like 22W x 4, 4ohm in the amplifier output section. The bass is really weak. I guess I don't understand the difference. wrote in message ... I just got this cd/mp3 player for my car.. JVC HD/Bluetooth-Ready Car Stereo (KD-G340) and the ad says 50W x 4 peak power. However when I view the manual, it says something like 22W x 4, 4ohm in the amplifier output section. The bass is really weak. I guess I don't understand the difference. All good points. It used to be that the high end makers would specify RMS power @THD, meaning that they spec something like 45W RMS/channel @ ..05% THD. But they no longer give the distortion, supposedly there is some standard they are all complying with that includes an implied distortion level. |
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