"TCS" wrote in message
...
But fuses are current triggered. The problem is that the
bass/midrange drivers typcially carry MUCH more current than the
delicate tweeters. Since a fuse is not frequency dependent, using
a fuse that is a small enough rating to protect the tweeter would
never allow the bass/midrange volume to go anywhere (i.e., it
would always pop before the higher current bass/midrange could
get going) You'd have to use your speakers as headphones!

Simply fuse the tweeters seperately then, or use polyswitches which many
speaker manufacturers do anyway.

Fuses work well to protect an amp, not the speaker. They protect well
against things like shorted wiring.

Proper fusing will do both.

The way to protect the speakers is to have a functioning brain. When
it starts to sound bad, TURN IT DOWN!

Agreed, the problem seemsto be protecting equipment against those without
functioning brains.
A not inconsiderable percentage of the population IME.

If turning up the volume makes the sound "sound fuller" not "sound
louder",
you're driving the speaker into distortion.

Most people would say that distortion makes the sound louder, that's why a
pocket radio with less than 1W and a 3" speaker can sound "loud" to most
people.

TonyP.

"TCS" wrote in message
...
But fuses are current triggered. The problem is that the
bass/midrange drivers typcially carry MUCH more current than the
delicate tweeters. Since a fuse is not frequency dependent, using
a fuse that is a small enough rating to protect the tweeter would
never allow the bass/midrange volume to go anywhere (i.e., it
would always pop before the higher current bass/midrange could
get going) You'd have to use your speakers as headphones!

Simply fuse the tweeters seperately then, or use polyswitches which many
speaker manufacturers do anyway.

Fuses work well to protect an amp, not the speaker. They protect well
against things like shorted wiring.

Proper fusing will do both.

The way to protect the speakers is to have a functioning brain. When
it starts to sound bad, TURN IT DOWN!

Agreed, the problem seemsto be protecting equipment against those without
functioning brains.
A not inconsiderable percentage of the population IME.

If turning up the volume makes the sound "sound fuller" not "sound
louder",
you're driving the speaker into distortion.

Most people would say that distortion makes the sound louder, that's why a
pocket radio with less than 1W and a 3" speaker can sound "loud" to most
people.

TonyP.

Huh? When power compression occurs, the average power dissipated by the
speaker DECREASES relative to what it would be if power compression had
not
set in.

Better define what YOU mean by power compression then. It seems you have
jumped from talking about program content to speaker characteristics, but
I
can't be sure.

I wasn't the one that brought up power compression. The definition of power
compression that I'm using is the only definition. Go to the J.AES site and
do a search for "power compression", and that's what I'm talking about.

Huh? When power compression occurs, the average power dissipated by the
speaker DECREASES relative to what it would be if power compression had
not
set in.

Better define what YOU mean by power compression then. It seems you have
jumped from talking about program content to speaker characteristics, but
I
can't be sure.

I wasn't the one that brought up power compression. The definition of power
compression that I'm using is the only definition. Go to the J.AES site and
do a search for "power compression", and that's what I'm talking about.

Huh? When power compression occurs, the average power dissipated by the
speaker DECREASES relative to what it would be if power compression had
not
set in.

Better define what YOU mean by power compression then. It seems you have
jumped from talking about program content to speaker characteristics, but
I
can't be sure.

I wasn't the one that brought up power compression. The definition of power
compression that I'm using is the only definition. Go to the J.AES site and
do a search for "power compression", and that's what I'm talking about.

"MZ" wrote

[...]
When power compression occurs, the average power dissipated by
the speaker DECREASES relative to what it would be if power
compression had not set in.

There's no effect on HP filter? Sure?

Rudi Fischer
--
....and may good music always be with you

"MZ" wrote

[...]
When power compression occurs, the average power dissipated by
the speaker DECREASES relative to what it would be if power
compression had not set in.

There's no effect on HP filter? Sure?

Rudi Fischer
--
....and may good music always be with you

"MZ" wrote

[...]
When power compression occurs, the average power dissipated by
the speaker DECREASES relative to what it would be if power
compression had not set in.

There's no effect on HP filter? Sure?

Rudi Fischer
--
....and may good music always be with you

[...]
When power compression occurs, the average power dissipated by
the speaker DECREASES relative to what it would be if power
compression had not set in.

There's no effect on HP filter? Sure?

The increase in impedance serves a greater effect on power dissipation than
the associated decrease in crossover point, assuming "typical" energy
distribution in the signal.

[...]
When power compression occurs, the average power dissipated by
the speaker DECREASES relative to what it would be if power
compression had not set in.

There's no effect on HP filter? Sure?

The increase in impedance serves a greater effect on power dissipation than
the associated decrease in crossover point, assuming "typical" energy
distribution in the signal.

[...]
When power compression occurs, the average power dissipated by
the speaker DECREASES relative to what it would be if power
compression had not set in.

There's no effect on HP filter? Sure?

The increase in impedance serves a greater effect on power dissipation than
the associated decrease in crossover point, assuming "typical" energy
distribution in the signal.

Stu-R wrote in message . ..
just put a 1 or 2 ampere fuse in the speaker line and forget about it.

On 22 Jun 2004 13:54:11 -0700, (Jean) wrote:

Hello,
I have an audio amp, 40 watts RMS per channel (8 ohm) and I would like
to plug to one channel a small speaker 19 watts (8 ohm).

4 questions:
1- What circuit should I build to adapt?

2- How can I know how much ampere the amp is using to drive one
loudspeaker?

3- A better suitable newsgroup to post this question?

Search on the internet:
4- What words should I use to find some appropriate technical texts?

Thank you.

2 questions:
1- Stu-R wrote: "just put a 1 or 2 ampere fuse in the speaker line and
forget about it".

If you look at my second question 2 above from original posting...
because I do not want to guess how much ampere is going to one
loudspeaker. I still have the manual.

I do not want to open my cabinets and install a few fuses. I would go
with a cable fuse between the amp and the speaker. This is a temporary
solution. I would also be safe by calculating the value of the fuse to
6/10 or 7/10 of the volume. When I was a kid, I liked to play with the
home light like 0/10 to 10/10 to 0/10 for fun as the disco lights and
I do not want a kid to start to play on the volume knob as disco
volume with those 19watts speakers.

2- The fuses that you talked about are regular fuses or special
speaker fuses?

Stu-R wrote in message . ..
just put a 1 or 2 ampere fuse in the speaker line and forget about it.

On 22 Jun 2004 13:54:11 -0700, (Jean) wrote:

Hello,
I have an audio amp, 40 watts RMS per channel (8 ohm) and I would like
to plug to one channel a small speaker 19 watts (8 ohm).

4 questions:
1- What circuit should I build to adapt?

2- How can I know how much ampere the amp is using to drive one
loudspeaker?

3- A better suitable newsgroup to post this question?

Search on the internet:
4- What words should I use to find some appropriate technical texts?

Thank you.

2 questions:
1- Stu-R wrote: "just put a 1 or 2 ampere fuse in the speaker line and
forget about it".

If you look at my second question 2 above from original posting...
because I do not want to guess how much ampere is going to one
loudspeaker. I still have the manual.

I do not want to open my cabinets and install a few fuses. I would go
with a cable fuse between the amp and the speaker. This is a temporary
solution. I would also be safe by calculating the value of the fuse to
6/10 or 7/10 of the volume. When I was a kid, I liked to play with the
home light like 0/10 to 10/10 to 0/10 for fun as the disco lights and
I do not want a kid to start to play on the volume knob as disco
volume with those 19watts speakers.

2- The fuses that you talked about are regular fuses or special
speaker fuses?

Stu-R wrote in message . ..
just put a 1 or 2 ampere fuse in the speaker line and forget about it.

On 22 Jun 2004 13:54:11 -0700, (Jean) wrote:

Hello,
I have an audio amp, 40 watts RMS per channel (8 ohm) and I would like
to plug to one channel a small speaker 19 watts (8 ohm).

4 questions:
1- What circuit should I build to adapt?

2- How can I know how much ampere the amp is using to drive one
loudspeaker?

3- A better suitable newsgroup to post this question?

Search on the internet:
4- What words should I use to find some appropriate technical texts?

Thank you.

2 questions:
1- Stu-R wrote: "just put a 1 or 2 ampere fuse in the speaker line and
forget about it".

If you look at my second question 2 above from original posting...
because I do not want to guess how much ampere is going to one
loudspeaker. I still have the manual.

I do not want to open my cabinets and install a few fuses. I would go
with a cable fuse between the amp and the speaker. This is a temporary
solution. I would also be safe by calculating the value of the fuse to
6/10 or 7/10 of the volume. When I was a kid, I liked to play with the
home light like 0/10 to 10/10 to 0/10 for fun as the disco lights and
I do not want a kid to start to play on the volume knob as disco
volume with those 19watts speakers.

2- The fuses that you talked about are regular fuses or special
speaker fuses?

Jean wrote:
2 questions:
1- Stu-R wrote: "just put a 1 or 2 ampere fuse in the speaker line and
forget about it".


If you examine the various discussions following that statement,
you will see that it is an oversimplification that might not work.


If you look at my second question 2 above from original posting...
because I do not want to guess how much ampere is going to one
loudspeaker. I still have the manual.


IF your speaker cabinets have only one speaker in each with no
crossovers, then this might work. However, if you have 2 or 3 way
systems with multiple drivers in each, you would have to put
separate fuses on each of the drivers (requiring you to open the
cabinet for installation)

If you put a fuse inline with the main cabinet on a multi-way
system, when you set the value of the fuse low enough to protect
the most sensetive driver, it can be too low for the other
drivers and would be popping all of the time at rather low volume levels.


I do not want to open my cabinets and install a few fuses. I would go
with a cable fuse between the amp and the speaker. This is a temporary
solution. I would also be safe by calculating the value of the fuse to
6/10 or 7/10 of the volume. When I was a kid, I liked to play with the
home light like 0/10 to 10/10 to 0/10 for fun as the disco lights and
I do not want a kid to start to play on the volume knob as disco
volume with those 19watts speakers.

2- The fuses that you talked about are regular fuses or special
speaker fuses?


So assuming that you have n-way speakers, retrofitting a set of
fuses really won't work well for you as they need to be wired in
line with the drivers inside of the cabinet.

If you want to try this, install an inline fuseholder on each
speaker line and try (starting with the lowest) values of .5 amp
to 1.5 amps (not sure whether to use AGC or GMC fuses, you'd have
to experiment--I'd start with the GMC though). Turn up the
volume. The fuse should blow before the volume gets too loud.
Just remember though that under certain circumstances it may
still be possible to pop a tweeter without blowing the fuse where
other times that same fuse would blow first depending on the type
of music being played. "Installing it and fogetting it" doesn't
guarantee that the entire system is safe. You'll also need to
keep fuses on hand as they will be accidentally be popped occasionally.

Again though, my personal preference would be to limit the volume
going to the speakers, either with a temporary physical stop on
the volume control or with a resistive device added inline on the
interconnects between the preamp and the amp.

- Jeff

Jean wrote:
2 questions:
1- Stu-R wrote: "just put a 1 or 2 ampere fuse in the speaker line and
forget about it".


If you examine the various discussions following that statement,
you will see that it is an oversimplification that might not work.


If you look at my second question 2 above from original posting...
because I do not want to guess how much ampere is going to one
loudspeaker. I still have the manual.


IF your speaker cabinets have only one speaker in each with no
crossovers, then this might work. However, if you have 2 or 3 way
systems with multiple drivers in each, you would have to put
separate fuses on each of the drivers (requiring you to open the
cabinet for installation)

If you put a fuse inline with the main cabinet on a multi-way
system, when you set the value of the fuse low enough to protect
the most sensetive driver, it can be too low for the other
drivers and would be popping all of the time at rather low volume levels.


I do not want to open my cabinets and install a few fuses. I would go
with a cable fuse between the amp and the speaker. This is a temporary
solution. I would also be safe by calculating the value of the fuse to
6/10 or 7/10 of the volume. When I was a kid, I liked to play with the
home light like 0/10 to 10/10 to 0/10 for fun as the disco lights and
I do not want a kid to start to play on the volume knob as disco
volume with those 19watts speakers.

2- The fuses that you talked about are regular fuses or special
speaker fuses?


So assuming that you have n-way speakers, retrofitting a set of
fuses really won't work well for you as they need to be wired in
line with the drivers inside of the cabinet.

If you want to try this, install an inline fuseholder on each
speaker line and try (starting with the lowest) values of .5 amp
to 1.5 amps (not sure whether to use AGC or GMC fuses, you'd have
to experiment--I'd start with the GMC though). Turn up the
volume. The fuse should blow before the volume gets too loud.
Just remember though that under certain circumstances it may
still be possible to pop a tweeter without blowing the fuse where
other times that same fuse would blow first depending on the type
of music being played. "Installing it and fogetting it" doesn't
guarantee that the entire system is safe. You'll also need to
keep fuses on hand as they will be accidentally be popped occasionally.

Again though, my personal preference would be to limit the volume
going to the speakers, either with a temporary physical stop on
the volume control or with a resistive device added inline on the
interconnects between the preamp and the amp.

- Jeff

Jean wrote:
2 questions:
1- Stu-R wrote: "just put a 1 or 2 ampere fuse in the speaker line and
forget about it".


If you examine the various discussions following that statement,
you will see that it is an oversimplification that might not work.


If you look at my second question 2 above from original posting...
because I do not want to guess how much ampere is going to one
loudspeaker. I still have the manual.


IF your speaker cabinets have only one speaker in each with no
crossovers, then this might work. However, if you have 2 or 3 way
systems with multiple drivers in each, you would have to put
separate fuses on each of the drivers (requiring you to open the
cabinet for installation)

If you put a fuse inline with the main cabinet on a multi-way
system, when you set the value of the fuse low enough to protect
the most sensetive driver, it can be too low for the other
drivers and would be popping all of the time at rather low volume levels.


I do not want to open my cabinets and install a few fuses. I would go
with a cable fuse between the amp and the speaker. This is a temporary
solution. I would also be safe by calculating the value of the fuse to
6/10 or 7/10 of the volume. When I was a kid, I liked to play with the
home light like 0/10 to 10/10 to 0/10 for fun as the disco lights and
I do not want a kid to start to play on the volume knob as disco
volume with those 19watts speakers.

2- The fuses that you talked about are regular fuses or special
speaker fuses?


So assuming that you have n-way speakers, retrofitting a set of
fuses really won't work well for you as they need to be wired in
line with the drivers inside of the cabinet.

If you want to try this, install an inline fuseholder on each
speaker line and try (starting with the lowest) values of .5 amp
to 1.5 amps (not sure whether to use AGC or GMC fuses, you'd have
to experiment--I'd start with the GMC though). Turn up the
volume. The fuse should blow before the volume gets too loud.
Just remember though that under certain circumstances it may
still be possible to pop a tweeter without blowing the fuse where
other times that same fuse would blow first depending on the type
of music being played. "Installing it and fogetting it" doesn't
guarantee that the entire system is safe. You'll also need to
keep fuses on hand as they will be accidentally be popped occasionally.

Again though, my personal preference would be to limit the volume
going to the speakers, either with a temporary physical stop on
the volume control or with a resistive device added inline on the
interconnects between the preamp and the amp.

- Jeff