Pooh Bear wrote:


Mike Rivers wrote:


In article writes:


Ok, but you get the point. This is a low tech problem and the solution
should be very cheap.

Kind of makes you wonder why the manufacturer didn't put a power
switch on it in the first place. Surely it wasn't to save a couple of
dollars.


I expect it may have been to make it look 'professional' or just plain style
driven ?

They could still have fitted a switch on the back panel though.

Probably part of a component set where the amp is turned on and off by
the preamp/contoller unit. But you are right, they still should have had
a switch on the amp. If the original poster is handy with a soldering
iron and a drill, the best solution would be to mount a (20 amp?) toggle
switch. Would cost a couple of bucks.

Agent_C wrote:

Ever engage your brain before opening your mouth?


Oh, you are the op.

Who said:

I'm already using an expensive PowerWedge line conditioner and I'm
not going to introduce a cheap power strip.

What exactly is wrong with a "cheap power strip"?

Joe Sensor wrote:

Pooh Bear wrote:

Mike Rivers wrote:


In article writes:


Ok, but you get the point. This is a low tech problem and the solution
should be very cheap.

Kind of makes you wonder why the manufacturer didn't put a power
switch on it in the first place. Surely it wasn't to save a couple of
dollars.


I expect it may have been to make it look 'professional' or just plain style
driven ?

They could still have fitted a switch on the back panel though.

Probably part of a component set where the amp is turned on and off by
the preamp/contoller unit. But you are right, they still should have had
a switch on the amp. If the original poster is handy with a soldering
iron and a drill, the best solution would be to mount a (20 amp?) toggle
switch. Would cost a couple of bucks.

I *so* agree.

Only trouble is - the switch may only cost a couple of bucks but how much will it
cost to get it blessed with audiophool oil ?

Graham


rec.audio.marketplace added back.

I wonder who might have found it inconvenient for pro sound engineers to criticise
'snake oil' hi-fi products in case that our common sense view might diminish their
potential market ?

Pooh Bear wrote:

In Europe it's considered normal for a switch to interrupt *both* the phase
and neutral !

I do this in my designs without even giving it a 2nd thought !

In the US, we don't have to do this because all of our cords are polarized.
Admittedly there are miswiring incidents sometimes.

The European way also requires fusing both power leads. This has some
disadvantages (especially with failures that blow the fuse on the cold
lead).

I'm beginning to see why UL is so fixated about fire hazard

It's better than you might think, due to the lower line voltage. On the
other hand, we have more problems due to bad connections heating up, due
to the higher current required as a result.

I guess you guys burn down the house as a result of a simple electrical fault
on a regular basis ?

Anybody who lives in a country where appliances come without plugs and
people just shove the bare wires into the sockets and hold them in with
matchsticks rather than spend a few pounds on a plug has NO cause to talk.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

"Joe Sensor" wrote in message
...

I expect it may have been to make it look 'professional' or just plain
style
driven ?

They could still have fitted a switch on the back panel though.

Probably part of a component set where the amp is turned on and off by
the preamp/contoller unit. But you are right, they still should have had
a switch on the amp. If the original poster is handy with a soldering
iron and a drill, the best solution would be to mount a (20 amp?) toggle
switch. Would cost a couple of bucks.

It would, however, void the warranty.

Peace,
Paul

Joe Sensor wrote:

What exactly is wrong with a "cheap power strip"?

I just want a passive switch; nothing more. I'm uncertain how the fuse
and surge protection circuitry in a 'cheap power strip', or even an
expensive one, would interact with the PowerWedge.

A_C

On 28 Jun 2005 10:46:22 -0700, "Agent_C"
wrote:

Joe Sensor wrote:

What exactly is wrong with a "cheap power strip"?

I just want a passive switch; nothing more. I'm uncertain how the fuse
and surge protection circuitry in a 'cheap power strip', or even an
expensive one, would interact with the PowerWedge.

Get a power strip without fuse or surge protection circuitry.

Kal

Agent_C wrote:
Joe Sensor wrote:

What exactly is wrong with a "cheap power strip"?

I just want a passive switch; nothing more. I'm uncertain
how the fuse
and surge protection circuitry in a 'cheap power strip',
or even an
expensive one, would interact with the PowerWedge.

There's usually no fuse, but there usually is a circuit
breaker. It won't cause problems. It's bascially as passive
as the switch.

Just say no to power strips with surge protection built in.

Paul Stamler wrote:

"Joe Sensor" wrote in message
...

I expect it may have been to make it look 'professional' or just plain
style
driven ?

They could still have fitted a switch on the back panel though.

Probably part of a component set where the amp is turned on and off by
the preamp/contoller unit. But you are right, they still should have had
a switch on the amp. If the original poster is handy with a soldering
iron and a drill, the best solution would be to mount a (20 amp?) toggle
switch. Would cost a couple of bucks.

It would, however, void the warranty.

Peace,
Paul

Pfffttt ! trust you to spot that one !

Graham

Agent_C wrote:

Joe Sensor wrote:

What exactly is wrong with a "cheap power strip"?

I just want a passive switch; nothing more.

That's *exactly * what a 'cheap' power strip offers !

I'm uncertain how the fuse
and surge protection circuitry in a 'cheap power strip', or even an
expensive one, would interact with the PowerWedge.

There is *no* 'interaction'. Nil. None whatever ! Do *not* believe the
crap that ppl who want you to spend phenomenal sums of money on *their*
'Holy Grail' goods tell you ! They're in this purely to con you out of
your hard earned money. I speak as an audio pro with decades of experience
who laughs at these loonies whose selling tactics owe more to the 19th
century than to science !

Ppl like me actually *make* the recordings you listen to. Anyone
attempting to use 'audiophool' tactics in this environment would be
declared insane.

For Chrissake - you simply want to turn something on or off. Do you need a
license from the audio God to do that ?

Graham

Paul Stamler wrote:


It would, however, void the warranty.


The original post said:

I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature,

Warranty is not a factor.

"Agent_C" wrote in message
oups.com...
Joe Sensor wrote:

Ever been to a hardware store? You can get an inline switch that tacs
onto a power cord for about a buck and a half.

Ever engage your brain before opening your mouth?

I'm not going to power a 1200 watt / 10 amp / $3000 audio component off
of zip cord and a contact switch.


Probably not. But only becasue the price isn't enough.

geoff

"Agent_C" wrote in message
oups.com...
Joe Sensor wrote:

What exactly is wrong with a "cheap power strip"?

I just want a passive switch; nothing more. I'm uncertain how the fuse
and surge protection circuitry in a 'cheap power strip', or even an
expensive one, would interact with the PowerWedge.

Cheap power strips don't have 'surge protection'. They usually have a small
circuit-breaker. Neither of these items would interact in the slightest
with your power conditioner anyway. In fact, you should try your system
without tyhe power conditioner to see what improvements it's ommision might
make ( unless your mains is REALLY dirty).

geoff.

"Pooh Bear" wrote in message

I expect it may have been to make it look 'professional' or just plain
style
driven ?

They could still have fitted a switch on the back panel though.


There was an era when it was fashionable to leave gear on 24/7 . Probably
when the Class A vendors bought all those power company shares ....

geoff

"Agent_C" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 02:41:46 GMT, Agent 86
wrote:

A fool & his money?

What the hell, want to buy a slightly used waterbed? Cheap?

Neither you or Wood apparently have any sense of humor at all...

Are you suggesting this thread was a big troll ?!!!


geoff

In article writes:

In the US, we don't have to do this because all of our cords are polarized.

Well, all except for those that I've filed down the wide blade of a
two-prong plug so I can fit it into some of the old non-polarized
2-blade outlets in the house.

Anybody who lives in a country where appliances come without plugs and
people just shove the bare wires into the sockets and hold them in with
matchsticks rather than spend a few pounds on a plug has NO cause to talk.

It wasn't that bad when I lived in Japan in 1970, but the gas stove
and kitchen water heater were connected with thin robber hose to what
looked like the Bunsen burner gas tap on the chem lab benches in high
school.

--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

In article writes:

the best solution would be to mount a (20 amp?) toggle
switch. Would cost a couple of bucks.

It would, however, void the warranty.

Better to say that it would give the manufacturer a reason not to
honor the warranty if he wanted to. If something failed because a
metal chip that you didn't clean up caused a short circuit, they might
blame that on your modification, but if the amplifier failed from
natural causes or a defective component, they'd probably take care of
you even if you added a power switch.

Besides, wasn't this an old amplifier, probably no longer under
warranty?


--
I'm really Mike Rivers )
However, until the spam goes away or Hell freezes over,
lots of IP addresses are blocked from this system. If
you e-mail me and it bounces, use your secret decoder ring
and reach me he double-m-eleven-double-zero at yahoo

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 06:59:40 +0100, Pooh Bear
wrote:


Hmmm......

In Europe it's considered normal for a switch to interrupt *both* the phase
and neutral !
I North America the Neutral is always grounded, so breaking both leads
is not needed. OTOH you do break both leads on 240V equipment.


I do this in my designs without even giving it a 2nd thought !

I'm beginning to see why UL is so fixated about fire hazard

I guess you guys burn down the house as a result of a simple electrical fault
on a regular basis ?

Graham


, _
, | \ MKA: Steve Urbach
, | )erek No JUNK in my email please
, ____|_/ragonsclaw
, / / / Running United Devices "Cure For Cancer" Project 24/7 Have you helped? http://www.grid.org

In article , (Scott
Dorsey) wrote:

Anybody who lives in a country where appliances come without plugs and
people just shove the bare wires into the sockets and hold them in with
matchsticks rather than spend a few pounds on a plug has NO cause to
talk.

It's been illegal to sell new appliances without plugs in the UK (and the
rest of the EU) for *years* now.

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 06:59:40 +0100, Pooh Bear
wrote:

I'm beginning to see why UL is so fixated about fire hazard

I guess you guys burn down the house as a result of a simple electrical fault
on a regular basis ?

Nah, we only burn stuff what deserved burnin'. Or didn't
show a little respect. Right?

Same deal with kneecap breakin'; strictly biz.

Chris Hornbeck
"I can build you a test that will show either one. Which
would you prefer me to demonstrate?"
--scott

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 20:48:19 +0100, Pooh Bear
wrote:


For Chrissake - you simply want to turn something on or off. Do you need a
license from the audio God to do that ?

Well, don't do anything for *my* sake. I'm often
confused with the audio God, but it's because an earlier
manager doctored my publicity photos. Sorry for the
confusion.

Chris Hornbeck
"I can build you a test that will show either one. Which
would you prefer me to demonstrate?"
--scott

On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 09:06:36 +1200, "Geoff Wood"
wrote:

Cheap power strips don't have 'surge protection'. They usually have a small
circuit-breaker. Neither of these items would interact in the slightest
with your power conditioner anyway. In fact, you should try your system
without tyhe power conditioner to see what improvements it's ommision might
make ( unless your mains is REALLY dirty).

geoff.
They also have cheap cr*p rocker power switches.
Go to Home Depot (or hardware store): But a light SP switch/outlet on
a single frame, A junction box (cast outdoor type if looks are
important, and a plate, strain relief (connector) and a 3 prong power
cord (for a disposal or power tool).
Wire the white (blue) wire to the silver terminal, Green wire to the
Green screw and the Black (brown) wire to the (normal) LOAD side of
the switch. DO NOT brek the strap on the LINE side.
Wallah, one HEAVY DUTY switched outlet on a cord.

, _
, | \ MKA: Steve Urbach
, | )erek No JUNK in my email please
, ____|_/ragonsclaw
, / / / Running United Devices "Cure For Cancer" Project 24/7 Have you helped? http://www.grid.org

"Steve Urbach" wrote in message

I North America the Neutral is always grounded, so breaking both leads
is not needed. OTOH you do break both leads on 240V equipment.

AFAIK neutral is always bonded to ground at thhe switchboard in Oz, NZ, and
UK too. No neutral is rountinely NOT switched.

geoff

Scott Dorsey wrote:

Anybody who lives in a country where appliances come without plugs and
people just shove the bare wires into the sockets and hold them in with
matchsticks rather than spend a few pounds on a plug has NO cause to talk.

Which country is that ?

Graham

David Morton wrote:
In article , (Scott
Dorsey) wrote:

Anybody who lives in a country where appliances come without plugs and
people just shove the bare wires into the sockets and hold them in with
matchsticks rather than spend a few pounds on a plug has NO cause to
talk.

It's been illegal to sell new appliances without plugs in the UK (and the
rest of the EU) for *years* now.

You know, on one hand I think that's a huge step up for safety. But on
the other hand, I think it's kind of sad to see such a uniquely British
institution die out.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

Geoff Wood wrote:

"Steve Urbach" wrote in message

I North America the Neutral is always grounded, so breaking both leads
is not needed. OTOH you do break both leads on 240V equipment.

AFAIK neutral is always bonded to ground at thhe switchboard in Oz, NZ, and
UK too. No neutral is rountinely NOT switched.

Are you criticising my use of a 2 pole switch ? It's the norm throughout Europe
to use one. I barely thought about it 'til now.

Graham

On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 09:13:47 +1200, "Geoff Wood"
wrote:

Are you suggesting this thread was a big troll ?!!!

Now you sound downright stupid.

A_C

Scott Dorsey wrote:

David Morton wrote:
In article , (Scott
Dorsey) wrote:

Anybody who lives in a country where appliances come without plugs and
people just shove the bare wires into the sockets and hold them in with
matchsticks rather than spend a few pounds on a plug has NO cause to
talk.

It's been illegal to sell new appliances without plugs in the UK (and the
rest of the EU) for *years* now.

You know, on one hand I think that's a huge step up for safety. But on
the other hand, I think it's kind of sad to see such a uniquely British
institution die out.

Well... there's still hope. A while back I bought a socket strip from the
local supermarket that was on offer for next to no money.

When I got it home I noticed a 'scratchy feeling' from the plug. Turned out
that the Chinese who made it hadn't totally put all the wire inside the plug
and a few strands were available for human contact. Admittedly it was the
ground terminal connection ! Even so......

Most cordsets are moulded now anyway.

Graham

Chris Hornbeck wrote:

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 20:48:19 +0100, Pooh Bear
wrote:

For Chrissake - you simply want to turn something on or off. Do you need a
license from the audio God to do that ?

Well, don't do anything for *my* sake. I'm often
confused with the audio God, but it's because an earlier
manager doctored my publicity photos. Sorry for the
confusion.

I regret it's too late for me to infer any subtle sub-conscious meaning you may
have been intending to transpose there.

Sounds witty though !


Graham

On Wed, 29 Jun 2005 04:21:17 +0100, Pooh Bear
wrote:

Well, don't do anything for *my* sake. I'm often
confused with the audio God, but it's because an earlier
manager doctored my publicity photos. Sorry for the
confusion.

I regret it's too late for me to infer any subtle sub-conscious meaning you may
have been intending to transpose there.

Sounds witty though !

Very generous, and Thank You. I could only *wish* to have
any meaning of any level, and humor is the most timorous.

Excepting, of course, Flanders and Swann, transcending time
and space, and proving that magic transcends the ordinary
world's facade, and that it's *most* important for one's
meaning to be lost for at least a coupla decades.

Arf! Thanks,

Chris Hornbeck
"Chief Assistant to the Assistant Chief" -F&S

"Pooh Bear" wrote in message
...
Paul Stamler wrote:
Probably part of a component set where the amp is turned on and off by
the preamp/contoller unit. But you are right, they still should have
had
a switch on the amp. If the original poster is handy with a soldering
iron and a drill, the best solution would be to mount a (20 amp?)
toggle
switch. Would cost a couple of bucks.

It would, however, void the warranty.

Peace,
Paul

Pfffttt ! trust you to spot that one !

Yup -- I spend a lot of time telling folks that modifying equipment is often
a good, cost-effective thing to do, BUT it will void any warranty that's in
effect. Sometimes they do it anyway, sometimes not.

My stuff has been out of warranty for so long that it's irrelevant. Hell,
most of the companies don't even exist anymore.

Peace,
Paul

"Joe Sensor" wrote in message
...
Paul Stamler wrote:


It would, however, void the warranty.


The original post said:

I just got an early model Carver Sunfire Signature,

Warranty is not a factor.

Oh. Quite right, unless Carver was nuts enough to do a lifetime warranty.

Drill away.

Peace,
Paul

"Pooh Bear" wrote in message
...
Geoff Wood wrote:

"Steve Urbach" wrote in message

I North America the Neutral is always grounded, so breaking both leads
is not needed. OTOH you do break both leads on 240V equipment.

AFAIK neutral is always bonded to ground at thhe switchboard in Oz, NZ,
and
UK too. No neutral is rountinely NOT switched.

Are you criticising my use of a 2 pole switch ? It's the norm throughout
Europe
to use one. I barely thought about it 'til now.


Why ? Are some euro plugs reversable ?

geoff

"Joe Sensor" wrote in message
...

http://www.brokeninside.com/omfg/stfu/pics/76.jpg

Yeah, ok, whatever.



Hey Joe, is this one you?


http://www.brokeninside.com/omfg/stfu/pics/56.jpg


--
"It CAN'T be too loud... some of the red lights aren't even on yet!"
- Lorin David Schultz
in the control room
making even bad news sound good

(Remove spamblock to reply)

Geoff Wood wrote:

"Pooh Bear" wrote in message
...
Geoff Wood wrote:

"Steve Urbach" wrote in message

I North America the Neutral is always grounded, so breaking both leads
is not needed. OTOH you do break both leads on 240V equipment.

AFAIK neutral is always bonded to ground at thhe switchboard in Oz, NZ,
and
UK too. No neutral is rountinely NOT switched.

Are you criticising my use of a 2 pole switch ? It's the norm throughout
Europe
to use one. I barely thought about it 'til now.


Why ? Are some euro plugs reversable ?

Yup. Although the UK ones aren't.

Graham

On Mon, 27 Jun 2005 19:47:51 -0400, Agent_C
wrote:

Middle Atlantic makes one called the RPS15. I think they're $60 or $70
retail.

Thanks, this is exactly what I need.

... and at $92.00 a screaming bargain!

That IS an ironic "!", isn't it? PLEASE say it is :-)

On 28 Jun 2005 10:46:22 -0700, "Agent_C"
wrote:

What exactly is wrong with a "cheap power strip"?

I just want a passive switch; nothing more. I'm uncertain how the fuse
and surge protection circuitry in a 'cheap power strip', or even an
expensive one, would interact with the PowerWedge.

Why would a cheap power strip include surge protection? If the fuse
frightens you, bypass it.

Laurence Payne wrote:


If the fuse frightens you, bypass it.



Hahaha. I dunno. For some reason that just sounds really funny!

On Thu, 30 Jun 2005 01:07:12 +0100, Laurence Payne
wrote:

Why would a cheap power strip include surge protection?
Many $9.oo strips claim some surge protection :^)

Note APC protection plan states that it is void if you use external
surge protectors on either the line or load as they claim that it is
possible for them to interfere with each other resulting in poorer
protection than either one could supply.

Make sence if neither sees the full surge to initiate full clamping.


, _
, | \ MKA: Steve Urbach
, | )erek No JUNK in my email please
, ____|_/ragonsclaw
, / / / Running United Devices "Cure For Cancer" Project 24/7 Have you helped? http://www.grid.org

On Thu, 30 Jun 2005 01:02:56 +0100, Laurence Payne
wrote:

On Mon, 27 Jun 2005 19:47:51 -0400, Agent_C

... and at $92.00 a screaming bargain!

That IS an ironic "!", isn't it? PLEASE say it is :-)

It is.

A_C